Timber basics article
meow...@care2.com
Bit of feedback would be good before this timber basics wiki article
goes live, since it covers patches I dont know a lot about.... here
goes:
==Sizes==
Most timber is sold in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning
2"x4". However this isn't the size of the wood as supplied, its the
size its cut to before drying. The size when sold (after drying) is
smaller.
'''Timber sizes''' for rough sawn wood:
:Nominal Real
:1x2 ¾ x 1½
:1x3 ¾ x 2½
:1x4 ¾ x 3½
:1x6 ¾ x 5½
:2x2 1½ x 1½
:2x3 1½ x 2½
:2x4 1½ x 3½
:2x6 1½ x 5½
:2x8 1½ x 7¼
:2x10 1½ x 9¼
:2x12 1½ x 11¼
:4x4 3½ x 3½
Planed wood is a little smaller, usually by around 5-7mm each way. 2x4
PSE is just 2x4 rough sawn that has been planed to make it smooth.
Some timber is sold in metric. With this the stated size is the size
you get.
==Finishes==
;Rough sawn
:Expect splinters aplenty.
;PAR
:Planed All Round. There's no guarantee of accurate squareness with
PAR, a lot of PAR is true, some not. PAR has mostly been supplanted by
PSE today. Hand planing produces PAR.
;PSE
:Planed Square Edge. This is planed all round with sides at 90
degrees.
;CLS
:Canadian Lumber Standard. CLS is planed smooth, has rounded corners,
and is free of large knots at the edge of the wood. These features
reduce the spread of fire in [[Partition Wall|timber frame wall]]
cavities.
==Qualities==
===Whitewood===
Whitewood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix|
first fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the
project is complete. It may have splits, stains, and some warp.
Whitewood is generally spruce pine. [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds
sell a lot of whitewood.
The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a
percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]].
===Redwood===
Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix|
second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the
project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and
generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an
issue.
Redwood is generally one of the many types of pine.
===Joinery===
Joinery timber is clear, with a knot-free surface. Its used for
[[Furniture Links|furniture]].
==Grading==
Grading is a visual assessment of the structural strength of the
timber. Key features assessed in grading are
* Splits
* Knots, especially large knots at the edge of the wood
Most timber bought for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] use is ungraded. This
means it has sizeable knots at the edges, which affect its strength.
Graded wood is stamped with the grading details.
For new floor joists and roofing one should use graded timber. C16 is
the most common grade, but C24 and some less common graded timber is
also available. The higher spec grades may be used where dimensions
need to be minimised.
==Species==
Most wood used for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] is pine of one variety or
another, often spruce pine. Other species are also used, but command a
higher price, limiting their use.
==Buying Wood==
Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is
ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the
wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known
for sometimes using new customers to clear junk.
==Bent Wood==
Bent stock is ever a problem.
===Warp===
Selective cutting or 'docking' deals with a lot of warp. Wood often
warps at points (knots) rather than all along, so cutting it at those
points gives shorter pieces of straight wood.
In principle warp can also be stabilised by [[Adhesive|gluing]] and
[[screws|screwing]] 2 pieces of warped timber back to back. Its not
normally worth doing, but if you're stuck for one piece it may be
quicker than going out.
Warped wood is good for [[Partition Wall|framing]], where considerable
warping is tolerable. When the warp is too bad, the wood can be cut
short and used for noggings.
===Twist===
Twisted wood can sometimes be made good enough by cutting to short
lengths, as the amount of twist on each piece is then much smaller.
This often works for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]], but there's
always more junk wood than uses for it.
Other ways to deal with twisted wood are:
* Using it fixed firmly to something much stronger, thus forcing it to
untwist
* Use it for [[Partition Wall|framing]], which is somewhat tolerant of
twist
* Plane it to give smaller straight timber.
* Don't buy it in the first place!
==Water Content==
All timber contains some [[water]]. Where stabilty matters, which is
most applications, timber should be either purchased with water
content similar to final use, or else acclimatised before use. If
ignored, warp and twist are more likely after fitting.
===Green & Seasoned===
Most wood for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] work is seasoned. Green wood
(meaning unseasoned rather than green in colour) has high [[water]]
content, and is liable to move during drying, making it of limited use
for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]]. The main exception is green oak used for
oak frame.
==Durability==
Most timber is not durable, meaning it soon rots if used outdoors
without protection from water. The options for outdoor timber are:
* durable timber
* non-durable timber plus wood preservatives or paint
Well known durable species include
* oak
* red cedar
Note that the sapwood of all species is non-durable, its heartwood
thats durable. The majority of timber is heartwood.
==See Also==
* [[Leylandii Wood]]
* [[Holly]]
* [[http://216.239.59.104/search?
q=cache:IfN6hPrQTfUJ:oak.arch.utas.edu.au/glossary/glossary.pdf+timber
+glossary&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&client=opera Timber Glossary]]
* [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]]
* [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]
[[Category:Wood]]
d...@gglz.com
I might mention "regularised" as in "regularised & treated" which is
becoming more common for structural work. Has all four edges radiused
for easy handling and is "hit and miss" planed.
Also AIUI most structural timber is automatically stress graded by
deflection testing, rather than visual grading.
And AFAIK all timber is sold in 300mm length multiples.
d...@gglz.com
> And AFAIK all timber is sold in 300mm length multiples.
Although some (e.g. waney edge or rough sawn hardwoods) is priced by
the cube (and some still mean cu. foot rather than cu metre).
The Medway Handyman
meow...@care2.com wrote:
> Hi
>
> Bit of feedback would be good before this timber basics wiki article
> goes live, since it covers patches I dont know a lot about.... here
> goes:
>
>
> ==Sizes==
> Most timber is sold in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning
> 2"x4". However this isn't the size of the wood as supplied, its the
> size its cut to before drying. The size when sold (after drying) is
> smaller.
I've never seen timber sold in imperial sizes. I know we all go to Wickes
looking for a piece of 3 x 2 but its never marked, advertised or sold that
way.
<SNIP>
> ==Finishes==
> ;Rough sawn
>> Expect splinters aplenty.
I buy a lot of 150 x 50 & 100 x 50 sawn treated timber that is pretty much
smooth to the touch e.g. can be freely handled without gloves & no
splinters. Depends where you buy it I guess.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
d...@gglz.com
> I've never seen timber sold in imperial sizes. I know we all go to Wickes
> looking for a piece of 3 x 2 but its never marked, advertised or sold that
> way.
The merchants I use regularly is entirely metric, but the other one in
town still "talks" imperial.
Andy Dingley
>Whitewood is generally spruce pine. [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds
>sell a lot of whitewood.
What's "spruce pine" ?!
>Redwood is generally one of the many types of pine.
Redwood has more chance of being a pine than whitewood, but it's still a
bit strong to call it "generally pine". Spruce or fir would be more
likely.
Very little of what's sold in the UK as "pine" is actually related to
pines.
John Rumm
> I buy a lot of 150 x 50 & 100 x 50 sawn treated timber that is pretty much
> smooth to the touch e.g. can be freely handled without gloves & no
> splinters. Depends where you buy it I guess.
Check to see if it is marked CLS rather than just KD - the former is
designed to be safer to handle.
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
John Rumm
> ==Sizes==
> Most timber is sold in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning
> 2"x4". However this isn't the size of the wood as supplied, its the
> size its cut to before drying. The size when sold (after drying) is
> smaller.
Minor point, but here in blighty we list the large dimension first. So
that should be 4x2
> '''Timber sizes''' for rough sawn wood:
> :Nominal Real
> :1x2 ¾ x 1½
> :1x3 ¾ x 2½
> :1x4 ¾ x 3½
> :1x6 ¾ x 5½
> :2x2 1½ x 1½
> :2x3 1½ x 2½
> :2x4 1½ x 3½
> :2x6 1½ x 5½
> :2x8 1½ x 7¼
> :2x10 1½ x 9¼
> :2x12 1½ x 11¼
> :4x4 3½ x 3½
These seem small for KD sawn. Perhaps right for CLS. IME 100x50 KD sawn
is pretty close to those sizes.
> Planed wood is a little smaller, usually by around 5-7mm each way. 2x4
> PSE is just 2x4 rough sawn that has been planed to make it smooth.
>
> Some timber is sold in metric. With this the stated size is the size
> you get.
I think most timber is sold in metric these days - even if we tend to
order in imperial.
> :Canadian Lumber Standard. CLS is planed smooth, has rounded corners,
> and is free of large knots at the edge of the wood. These features
> reduce the spread of fire in [[Partition Wall|timber frame wall]]
> cavities.
And make it safer to handle.
Quite often cheaper than KD as well. However you need to watch carefully
if mixing types in one project to keep things lined up in spite of the
subtle variations of size.
Much of the stuff you buy will be stress graded to C16.
> For new floor joists and roofing one should use graded timber. C16 is
> the most common grade, but C24 and some less common graded timber is
> also available. The higher spec grades may be used where dimensions
> need to be minimised.
In addition to C24 being graded stronger, there will be a statistically
smaller distribution of strengths when looking at a number of pieces.
Hence for calculation purposes, you can assume a higher average strength
- especially when a load is shared between several beams.
> ==Buying Wood==
> Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is
> ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the
> wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known
> for sometimes using new customers to clear junk.
>
> ==Bent Wood==
> Bent stock is ever a problem.
Might be worth a note saying not to confuse bent with "camber" - even
straight enough stock may well have a slight camber (hence the tradition
of sighting down each joist before laying, and cambering them all "up")
Much construction timber will have been Kiln Dried to a specific water
content (and will be stamped KD). However that does not control how it
is then stored by the timber merchant!
Andre Majorel
> Planed wood is a little smaller, usually by around 5-7mm each way. 2x4
> PSE is just 2x4 rough sawn that has been planed to make it smooth.
>
> Some timber is sold in metric. With this the stated size is the size
> you get.
Don't know the situation in the UK but over here some kind of
wood is always smaller than the stated dimension. 5 mm thick
plywood is more like 4.5 mm thick, for example.
--
André Majorel <URL:http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/>
"Cette supposition rappelle assez celle de ce prédicateur qui, en
pleine chaire, faisait remarquer à ses fidèles la bonté de Dieu qui
avait placé les rivières auprès des villes." -- Alexandre Dumas
Rod
> Check to see if it is marked CLS rather than just KD - the former is
> designed to be safer to handle.
>
all purposes, but I don't know.)
--
Rod
Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
<www.thyromind.info> <www.thyroiduk.org> <www.altsupportthyroid.org>
ma...@atics.co.uk
Dear meow2
Laudible effort and will be useful. Thanks
Some points
1
White wood is (or should be) only Spruce eg Sitka (Picea sitchensis)
or Norway (Picea abies) or the like and normally does not contain
pine
Redwood is normally (or should be) only Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris)
see 'http://www.british-trees.com/guide/scotspine.htm'
2
Decide where you mean spruce and where you mean pine and use one or
the other
3
Moisture content
Building regs require less than 18%w/w for structural timbers and if
it feels heavy (say post treatment with Tanalith) don't buy it!
It is always good to allow timber to equilibrate with the internal
structure but most DIYs do not have the planning skills or SWIMBOs
that allow timber to be bought 6 months in advance and put inside the
house to equilibrate! Joinery timbers will shrink as they go from
about 14 to 16% as sold down to 8 or 10% - its a fact of life unless
you plan to avoid it.
4
Durability
There are five grades of natural durability. All sapwood of all
species is perishable. Only the heartwood can be graded for
durability. There are five grades (BRE Digest 429) These are in order
of durability Perishable (0 - 5 years in ground contact for a 2" x2"
stake) Non-durable (5 - 10 years) Moderately Durable (10 - 15 years)
Durable (15-25 years) and Very durable (25+). Examples are as
follows:
Perishable:
Horse chestnut, birch, lime, poplar, willow, ramin, plane;
Non-durable:
Scots Pine, Beech, elm, fir (grand,noble sivler), hickory, maple, pine
(American pitch, Canadian red, Corican, Jack, parana ponderosa,
radiata), Spruce (Engleman European Eastern Canadian, Sitka American
pitch pine
Moderatetly durable:
Central American cedar, Sweet Chestnut, Leyland Cyprus, kauri
(NZ),Keuring, Larch (all types), Meranti, Pine (maritime), Oak
(Turkey)
Durable:
Cedar (Western Red, yellow)Idigbo (getting popular these days)
Meranti, American White oak, utile, yew
Very durable:
Oak (European), caphorwood, Ebony, Ekki, Lignum vitae, Teak,
Greenheart
You have yet to mention treatment ....
eg Tanalith Aqauvac and double vac
Chris
Piers Finlayson
====
Chris,
Very useful list. Can you confirm that these grades are for non-treated
timmber?
Thanks,
Piers
ma...@atics.co.uk
Piers
Yes
This is NATURAL durability. The same digest deals with porosity -
hence the propensity for proper treatment. For example, spruce is non
porous and does not take pressure or other treatment well but Scots
pine is permeable and does treat well.
whisky-dave
<meow...@care2.com> wrote in message
news:f5e6b7ae-4a41-4b3e...@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
Hi
Bit of feedback would be good before this timber basics wiki article
goes live, since it covers patches I dont know a lot about.... here
goes:
Any idea where the word timber came from, and there doesn;t seem to be a
mention
of using the word as a warning to "get out of the way" when cutting trees
down ;-)
Rod
>
> Any idea where the word timber came from, and there doesn;t seem to be a
> mention
> of using the word as a warning to "get out of the way" when cutting trees
> down ;-)
>
>
You shouldn't have asked that. :-)
timber
O.E. timber "building, structure," later "building material, trees
suitable for building," and "wood in general," from P.Gmc. *temran (cf.
O.Fris. timber "wood, building," O.H.G. zimbar "timber, wooden dwelling,
room," O.N. timbr "timber," Ger. Zimmer "room"), from PIE *demrom-, from
base *dem-/*dom- "build" (source of Gk. domos, L. domus; see domestic).
The O.E. verb timbran, timbrian was the chief word for "to build" (cf.
Du. timmeren, Ger. zimmern). As a call of warning when a cut tree is
about to fall, it is attested from 1912 in Canadian Eng. Timbers in the
nautical slang sense (see shiver (n.)) is from the specialized meaning
"pieces of wood composing the frames of a ship's hull" (1748).
<http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=timber>
tim·ber (tim′bər)
noun
a building
building material
wood suitable for building houses, ships, etc., whether cut or still in
the form of trees
a large, heavy, dressed piece of wood used in building; beam
Brit. lumber ()
trees or forests collectively
personal quality or character a man of his timber
Shipbuilding a wooden rib
Etymology: ME < OE, akin to Ger zimmer, room (< OHG zimbar, wooden
structure) < IE base *dem-, *dema-, to join together, build > L domus, house
<http://www.yourdictionary.com/timber>
The Medway Handyman
> whisky-dave wrote:
>
>>
>> Any idea where the word timber came from, and there doesn;t seem to
>> be a mention
>> of using the word as a warning to "get out of the way" when cutting
>> trees down ;-)
>>
>>
> You shouldn't have asked that. :-)
>
>
> timber
Ah. Someone else with a love of English!
Zooterkins!
Rod
Looks like it (zimbar/timber) could be an example of the High German
consonant shift. (Thanks Wiki :-) )
meow...@care2.com
Thanks everyone for the feedback, lots of good stuff. When I get time
I'll do more rewriting. For now a few comments & qs:
Dimensions - will rethink that bit.
> In addition to C24 being graded stronger, there will be a statistically
> smaller distribution of strengths when looking at a number of pieces.
> Hence for calculation purposes, you can assume a higher average strength
> - especially when a load is shared between several beams.
Point taken, but I think thats outside of a basics article. This is
more intended to be info for people not yet familiar with the basic
terms and concepts, a place to begin. A 2nd article for that sort of
info would be good, but I cant think of a good name for it
> There are five grades of natural durability.
Going to keep that for a more in depth timber article, which would be
a bit beyond me to write on my own, but I can make a start some time.
> You have yet to mention treatment ....
eg Tanalith Aqauvac and double vac
yes, but again for a deeper article I think. And I dont know much
about it.
Timberboard: is the surface sanded or just planed? IME planing is
unable to remove all surface imperfections since the angle of wood
fibres is invariably wrong somewhere.
thanks,
NT
meow...@care2.com
too. Lets see what you think.
==Timber Sizes==
The timber industry has long operated in imperial sizes, and imperial
terms are still in widespread use today. However legislation has
outlawed the sale of goods in inches and feet, so timber is marked as
the nearest metric size to the standard imperial sizes.
Most timber is bought in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning
2"x4", however sellers must describe it in metric and an increasing
amount of timber is bought as metric sizes.
For rough sawn wood the nominal size is usually very close to the real
size supplied. However this isn't so in all cases, especially when
dealing with used wood. Its not unusual to find historic 2x4s that are
nearer 1.5" x 3.5"
Planed wood is a little smaller than rough, usually by about ¼" or
5-7mm each way. 2x4 PSE is simply 2x4 rough sawn that has been planed
to make it smooth.
When timber is sold in metric, the stated size is the size you get.
===Length===
Timber is sold in various lengths that are multiples of 30cm (a foot).
Most common are 6', 8' & 10'. Several longer sizes are also sold. Note
however that the metric equivalent lengths are very slightly shorter
than imperial, so if you need exactly 8', 2.4m is slightly short.
==Price==
Most timber is sold by price per length, and some by price per cubic
foot. Some example price lists:
* http://www.woodyalan.co.uk/timberpriceseb.htm
* http://www.fortimber.demon.co.uk/products.htm
* http://www.adhectic.co.uk
* http://www.wickes.co.uk/Shop/Timber/icat/timber
* http://www.tottontimber.co.uk/
These are not company recommendations
==Terms==
;Rough sawn
:Usually a splintery finish, but smoother sawn surfaces are seen on
some goods.
;PAR
:Planed All Round. There's no guarantee of accurate squareness with
PAR, a lot of PAR is true, some not. PAR has mostly been supplanted by
PSE today. Hand planing produces PAR.
;PSE
:Planed Square Edge. This is planed all round with sides accurately at
90 degrees.
;PFS
:
;CLS
:Canadian Lumber Standard. CLS is planed smooth, has rounded corners,
and is free of large knots at the edge of the wood. These features
reduce the spread of fire in [[Partition Wall|timber frame wall]]
cavities and make it safer to handle.
;ALS
: American Lumber Standard, very similar to CLS
;Regularised
: Similar to CLS but the planed surface is not consistently smooth, it
may be rough sawn in areas.
;Kiln dried, KD
: timber dried to a specified moisture content. However poor storage
by the merchant (after drying) may result in higher moisture content.
==Qualities==
===Whitewood===
Whitewood is spruce timber intended for [[First fix & second fix|first
fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project
is complete. It may have some splits & stains and some warp.
[[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood.
The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a
percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]].
Spruce doesn't take dyes well, and preservatives have limited
penetration.
===Redwood===
Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix|
second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the
project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and
generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an
issue.
Redwood is generally spruce, fir or pine.
===Joinery===
Joinery timber is clear, with a knot-free surface. Its used for
[[Furniture Links|furniture]].
==Grading==
Grading is an assessment of the structural strength of the timber. Key
features assessed in grading are splits and knots, especially large
knots at the edge of the wood.
Small timber bought for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] use is mostly
ungraded. Graded wood is stamped with the grading details.
For new floor joists and roofing one should use graded timber.
C16 is the most common grade, but C24 and some less common timber
grades are also available. The higher spec grades may be used where
dimensions need to be minimised.
==Species==
Most wood used for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] is spruce, fir or a pine.
Other species are also used, but command a higher price, limiting
their use.
==Buying Wood==
Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is
ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the
wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known
for sometimes using new customers to clear junk.
==Problem Wood==
Bent stock is a regular problem.
===Warp===
Selective cutting or 'docking' deals with a lot of warp. Wood often
warps at points (knots) rather than all along, so cutting it at those
points gives shorter pieces of straight wood.
In principle warp can also be straightened by [[Adhesive|gluing]] and
[[screws|screwing]] 2 pieces of warped timber back to back. Its not
normally worth doing, but if you're stuck for one piece it might be
quicker than going out.
Warped wood is good for [[Partition Wall|framing]], where considerable
warping is tolerable. When the warp is too bad, the wood can be cut
short and used for noggings.
===Twist===
Twisted wood can sometimes be made good enough by cutting to short
lengths, as the amount of twist on each piece is then much smaller.
This often works for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]], but there's
always more junk wood than uses for it.
Other ways to deal with twisted wood are:
* Using it fixed firmly to something much stronger, thus forcing it to
untwist
* Use it for [[Partition Wall|framing]], which is somewhat tolerant of
twist
* Plane it to give smaller straight timber.
* Don't buy it in the first place!
===Cupping===
Planks are prone to cupping, whereby one side becomes convex and the
other concave. If its desired to fix it, wetting the dished side will
expand it a little, and it can then be dried while weighted flat. The
thinner the plank, the more chance of success.
===Stability===
Timber defects can often be worked around, but warped or twisted
timber has bent since cutting, and is thus unstable. Changes in
moisture content are prone to producing movement again. This further
restricts the uses for such wood.
===Uses for junk wood===
[[Partition Wall|Timber framing]] is the main use. All sorts of
defects can be hidden behind [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] once
finished.
* Wood with [[paint]], [[nails]] or damage will all be hidden
* Bent wood can be fitted bending sideways
* Even wood bent both ways will only cause gentle undulation on the
plasterboard if not too bad, and this usually isn't noticeable.
* Split wood can be used too, adding a few [[screws]] to fix it
together.
* Almost anything can be used as noggings: undersize, odd shaped,
badly bent, even [[Adhesive|glued]] offcuts.
Mildly bent wood can also be used in timber framed [[Sheds|shed
construction]]. Its hidden by the cladding.
==Water Content==
All timber contains some [[water]]. Where stabilty matters, which is
most applications, timber should be either purchased with water
content similar to final use, or else acclimatised before use. If
ignored, warp and twist are more likely after fitting.
Timber used in new build for structural elements is required to have a
maximum of 18% water content. (Many houses have been built with green
timber.)
===Green & Seasoned===
Most wood for [[Special:Allpages|DIY work]] is seasoned. Green wood
(meaning unseasoned rather than green in colour) has high [[water]]
content, and is liable to move during drying, making it of limited use
for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]]. The main exception is green oak used for
oak frame. Timber frame [[sheds]] can also be built with green, as
some movement on drying is usually acceptable.
==Durability==
Most DIY timber is not durable, meaning it soon [[Wood Rot|rots]] if
used outdoors without protection from [[water]]. The options for
outdoor timber are:
* durable timber
* non-durable timber plus [[Wood Preservatives|wood preservative]] or
[[paint]]
Well known durable species include
* oak (very durable)
* red cedar
Note that the sapwood of all species is non-durable, its heartwood
that's durable. The majority of timber is heartwood, with only the
outer layer of the tree (under the bark) being sapwood.
===Treatment===
Timber is available ready treated against rot. Vacuum treated timber
is most effectively preserved, as the [[Wood Preservatives|chemical]]
soaks further into the wood. Cutting it exposes unpreserved ends,
which should be [[Wood Preservatives|treated]] for best life
expectancy.
When applying [[Wood Preservatives|preservative]], the cut ends need
the most attention, as they soak up water like a sponge. Cut ends will
usually sponge up several coats of preservative, which helps it last
longer.
==Board==
Timber also comes in board form. The most common types are hardboard,
chipboard, MDF, plywood and timberboard. These are all described in
[[Sheet Materials]].
[[Sheet Materials#Hardboard|Hardboard]]: thin non-rigid brown board,
typically 3mm thick. Most used as low cost drawer bottoms.
[[Sheet Materials#Chipboard|Chipboard]]: wood chippings glued
together, and sometimes coated with white melamine, brown imitation
wood veneer etc. Most common furniture board in Britain. Usually
fairly weak and vulnerable to water.
[[Sheet Materials#MDF|MDF]]: a uniform brown material, can be machined
and worked without grain being an issue. Vulnerable to water and not
very strong.
[[Sheet Materials#Plywood|Plywood]]: Available in many grades for
different purposes. Dimensionally stable, strong in both directions,
and one of the stronger wooden board types. Lower cost plywoods are
vulnerable to water and delaminate fairly easily.
[[Sheet Materials#Timberboard|Timberboard]]: Strips of wood glued side
by side to create flat board. Gives a real wood finish. Strong along
the grain, less so across. Cups badly if exposed to water on one side
for a day, but normal cup spills don't do this.
==Pine==
Pine is a genus of conifers covering many different varieties of tree.
Timber described as pine isn't necessarily a pine species at all, but
it will have much the same appearance and properties, making the end
result the same. Redwood has the highest odds of being real pine.
==Drilling holes==
Most holes [[Drill Bits|drilled]] in wood are either pilot holes,
clearance holes or countersink holes.
'''Clearance holes''' allow the [[screws|screw]] to slide through
freely. An ideal size for this is the full width of the screw shank
plus half a millimetre. Hole size isn't critical, but if too large the
head may sink into the hole when tightened, enlarging the hole in the
process.
'''Pilot holes''' are holes that enable [[screws|screws]] to be driven
in without difficulty or risk of splitting the wood. A good size for
pilot holes is half a milimetre slightly larger than the narrowest
width seen on the screw spiral.
'''Countersink holes''' are very shallow tapering holes for the
[[screws|screw head]] to sit in. These allow a counterunk head to sit
flush with the surface. They are generally [[Drill Bits|drilled]]
using a [[Drill Bits|countersink]], but can also be made with a large
drill bit. In most cases the size and shape of the countersinking hole
need not match the screw head well, as the head will distort the wood
under it to some extent.
/|
____ /\/\/\/\/\/\/ |
pilot hole ____ < |
\/\/\/\/\/\/\ |
\|
____ /|
/\/\/\/\/\/\/ |
clearance hole < |
____ \/\/\/\/\/\/\ |
\|
____
/|
/\/\/\/\/\/\/ |
< | countersink
\/\/\/\/\/\/\ |
\| ____
Guide to Approximate Hole Sizes
===Pilot Holes===
Experience will soon tell you when to use a pilot hole and when not.
Generally speaking, small screws in medium timber or bigger don't need
pilot holes, but with medium to big screws or small timber the chances
are a pilot hole would be wise. Lack of pilot hole can cause splitting
in small wood, or jamming with medium to large screws.
===Countersink holes===
Again sometimes they're needed, sometimes not. [[screws|Plasterboard
screws]] have heads that penetrate less than traditional countersunk
heads, and can usually be sunk fine without [[Drilling Techniques|
drilling]] first.
===Knots===
Knots are made of much tougher material than the surrounding wood.
Screwing into knots with standard size pilot holes causes the wood to
split. Its generally best to avoid knots when fixing, but sometimes a
[[screws|screw]] is needed there. A simple solution is to use a
slightly larger pilot hole, then they behave fine, good grip and no
splits. Never try to screw a knot with no pilot hole.
[[Nails]] may be driven through knots if a pilot hole is [[Drill Bits|
drilled]] first - though this is rarely necessary. Don't attempt to
nail a knot without pre-drilling.
==Difficult screws==
===Going in===
Awkward [[screws]] that are proving difficult to get in mean you need
a pilot hole, or a bigger pilot hole. If the right [[Drill Bits|drill
bit]] isn't to hand, dipping the screw in oil makes a difference and
is often enough. Dipping a screw in oil before driving reduces
friction, requiring less energy to get the job done. Various
substitutes can be used, such as margerine, chocolate, etc.
Don't labour over a tough [[screw]], if it won't go in just take it
out and fix the problem. If you keep at it you'll only end up with a
well jammed screw that requires repeated curses to get out.
===Coming out===
There are numerous ways to get stuck screws out. See [[Screws#Removing
a Damaged Screw|Removing a Damaged Screw]]
==Used wood==
There is a gotcha with used wood: most power [[saws]] and embedded
[[nails]] really don't mix well. If you regularly use old timber, nail-
safe circular saw blades are available. For occasional work one can
use a hand saw or jigsaw. Nails can damage the blades on these, but
not the operator.
Planes are also vulnerable, so used wood is generally better not
planed.
==See Also==
* [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|Plywood]]
* [[:Category:Wood|All Wood category articles]]
* [[http://216.239.59.104/search?
q=cache:IfN6hPrQTfUJ:oak.arch.utas.edu.au/glossary/glossary.pdf+timber
+glossary&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&client=opera Timber Glossary]]
* [http://books.google.com/books?
id=mUGSaiTsBAIC&pg=PT145&lpg=PT145&dq=als+timber+OR
+lumber&source=web&ots=yzFgcVS0MP&sig=neigDU6TFms5xcylsvqp9XUuBa8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=3&ct=result
Timber abbreviations]
meow...@care2.com
too. Lets see what you think.
==Timber Sizes==
The timber industry has long operated in imperial sizes, and imperial
terms are still in widespread use today. However legislation has
outlawed the sale of goods in inches and feet, so timber is marked as
the nearest metric size to the standard imperial sizes.
Most timber is bought in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning
2"x4", however sellers must describe it in metric and an increasing
amount of timber is bought as metric sizes.
For rough sawn wood the nominal size is usually very close to the real
size supplied. However this isn't so in all cases, especially when
dealing with used wood. Its not unusual to find historic 2x4s that are
nearer 1.5" x 3.5"
Planed wood is a little smaller than rough, usually by about ¼" or
5-7mm each way. 2x4 PSE is simply 2x4 rough sawn that has been planed
to make it smooth.
When timber is sold in metric, the stated size is the size you get.
===Length===
Timber is sold in various lengths that are multiples of 30cm (a foot).
Most common are 6', 8' & 10'. Several longer sizes are also sold. Note
however that the metric equivalent lengths are very slightly shorter
than imperial, so if you need exactly 8', 2.4m is slightly short.
==Price==
Most timber is sold by price per length, and some by price per cubic
foot. Some example price lists:
* http://www.woodyalan.co.uk/timberpriceseb.htm
* http://www.fortimber.demon.co.uk/products.htm
* http://www.adhectic.co.uk
* http://www.wickes.co.uk/Shop/Timber/icat/timber
* http://www.tottontimber.co.uk/
These are not company recommendations
==Terms==
;Rough sawn
:Usually a splintery finish, but smoother sawn surfaces are seen on
some goods.
;PAR
:Planed All Round. There's no guarantee of accurate squareness with
PAR, a lot of PAR is true, some not. PAR has mostly been supplanted by
PSE today. Hand planing produces PAR.
;PSE
:Planed Square Edge. This is planed all round with sides accurately at
90 degrees.
;PFS
:
;CLS
:Canadian Lumber Standard. CLS is planed smooth, has rounded corners,
and is free of large knots at the edge of the wood. These features
reduce the spread of fire in [[Partition Wall|timber frame wall]]
cavities and make it safer to handle.
;ALS
: American Lumber Standard, very similar to CLS
;Regularised
: Similar to CLS but the planed surface is not consistently smooth, it
may be rough sawn in areas.
;Kiln dried, KD
: timber dried to a specified moisture content. However poor storage
by the merchant (after drying) may result in higher moisture content.
==Qualities==
===Whitewood===
Whitewood is spruce timber intended for [[First fix & second fix|first
fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project
is complete. It may have some splits & stains and some warp.
[[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood.
The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a
percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]].
Spruce doesn't take dyes well, and preservatives have limited
penetration.
===Redwood===
Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix|
second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the
project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and
generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an
issue.
Redwood is generally spruce, fir or pine.
===Joinery===
Joinery timber is clear, with a knot-free surface. Its used for
[[Furniture Links|furniture]].
==Grading==
Grading is an assessment of the structural strength of the timber. Key
features assessed in grading are splits and knots, especially large
knots at the edge of the wood.
Small timber bought for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] use is mostly
ungraded. Graded wood is stamped with the grading details.
For new floor joists and roofing one should use graded timber.
C16 is the most common grade, but C24 and some less common timber
grades are also available. The higher spec grades may be used where
dimensions need to be minimised.
==Species==
Most wood used for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] is spruce, fir or a pine.
Other species are also used, but command a higher price, limiting
their use.
==Buying Wood==
Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is
ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the
wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known
for sometimes using new customers to clear junk.
==Problem Wood==
Bent stock is a regular problem.
===Warp===
Selective cutting or 'docking' deals with a lot of warp. Wood often
warps at points (knots) rather than all along, so cutting it at those
points gives shorter pieces of straight wood.
In principle warp can also be straightened by [[Adhesive|gluing]] and
[[screws|screwing]] 2 pieces of warped timber back to back. Its not
normally worth doing, but if you're stuck for one piece it might be
quicker than going out.
Warped wood is good for [[Partition Wall|framing]], where considerable
warping is tolerable. When the warp is too bad, the wood can be cut
short and used for noggings.
===Twist===
Twisted wood can sometimes be made good enough by cutting to short
lengths, as the amount of twist on each piece is then much smaller.
This often works for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]], but there's
always more junk wood than uses for it.
Other ways to deal with twisted wood are:
* Using it fixed firmly to something much stronger, thus forcing it to
untwist
* Use it for [[Partition Wall|framing]], which is somewhat tolerant of
twist
* Plane it to give smaller straight timber.
* Don't buy it in the first place!
===Cupping===
Planks are prone to cupping, whereby one side becomes convex and the
other concave. If its desired to fix it, wetting the dished side will
expand it a little, and it can then be dried while weighted flat. The
thinner the plank, the more chance of success.
===Stability===
Timber defects can often be worked around, but warped or twisted
timber has bent since cutting, and is thus unstable. Changes in
moisture content are prone to producing movement again. This further
restricts the uses for such wood.
===Uses for junk wood===
[[Partition Wall|Timber framing]] is the main use. All sorts of
defects can be hidden behind [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] once
finished.
* Wood with [[paint]], [[nails]] or damage will all be hidden
* Bent wood can be fitted bending sideways
* Even wood bent both ways will only cause gentle undulation on the
plasterboard if not too bad, and this usually isn't noticeable.
* Split wood can be used too, adding a few [[screws]] to fix it
together.
* Almost anything can be used as noggings: undersize, odd shaped,
badly bent, even [[Adhesive|glued]] offcuts.
Mildly bent wood can also be used in timber framed [[Sheds|shed
construction]]. Its hidden by the cladding.
==Water Content==
All timber contains some [[water]]. Where stabilty matters, which is
most applications, timber should be either purchased with water
content similar to final use, or else acclimatised before use. If
ignored, warp and twist are more likely after fitting.
Timber used in new build for structural elements is required to have a
maximum of 18% water content. (Many houses have been built with green
timber.)
===Green & Seasoned===
Most wood for [[Special:Allpages|DIY work]] is seasoned. Green wood
(meaning unseasoned rather than green in colour) has high [[water]]
content, and is liable to move during drying, making it of limited use
for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]]. The main exception is green oak used for
oak frame. Timber frame [[sheds]] can also be built with green, as
some movement on drying is usually acceptable.
==Durability==
Most DIY timber is not durable, meaning it soon [[Wood Rot|rots]] if
used outdoors without protection from [[water]]. The options for
outdoor timber are:
* durable timber
* non-durable timber plus [[Wood Preservatives|wood preservative]] or
[[paint]]
Well known durable species include
* oak (very durable)
* red cedar
Note that the sapwood of all species is non-durable, its heartwood
* [[http://216.239.59.104/search?
q=cache:IfN6hPrQTfUJ:oak.arch.utas.edu.au/glossary/glossary.pdf+timber
+glossary&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&client=opera Timber Glossary]]
* [http://books.google.com/books?
id=mUGSaiTsBAIC&pg=PT145&lpg=PT145&dq=als+timber+OR
+lumber&source=web&ots=yzFgcVS0MP&sig=neigDU6TFms5xcylsvqp9XUuBa8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=3&ct=result
Timber abbreviations]
stuart noble
up with, I thought a little more detail might be appropriate. Use
anything you like and dump the rest :-)
> ==Qualities==
> ===Whitewood===
> Whitewood is spruce timber intended for [[First fix & second fix|first
> fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project
> is complete. It may have some splits & stains and some warp.
>
> [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood.
>
> The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a
> percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]].
>
> Spruce doesn't take dyes well, and preservatives have limited
> penetration.
Basically the Christmas tree, Picea abies. Mainly used for 150mm x 25mm
flooring because it is reputed to be more stable than redwood, and is a
good deal cheaper.
Its use in other fields is restricted commercially because a) it has a
woolly structure and is difficult to machine to a fine finish, b) it
dulls cutters, and c) the knots are unstable.
However, the better grades are uniform, virtually knot-free, and useful
where a pale colour is required without the obtrusive orange look of
redwood. An underrated timber for interior work IMO.
>
>
> ===Redwood===
> Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix|
> second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the
> project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and
> generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an
> issue.
>
> Redwood is generally spruce, fir or pine.
>
>
Redwood (European redwood, Scots Pine) *should* always be pinus
sylvestris. It forms 90% of the stock of most timber merchants,
including the vast majority of mouldings, architrave, skirting etc.
Quality (and price) depends on how far north it's grown and, since the
average customer has no way of assessing this, using a reputable
merchant is the only guide.
All redwood is "kiln dried", that is to say it's dried at source to an
*average* moisture content of 17% ("shipping dry") to prevent blue stain
and other fungal infections. Technically this makes it unsuitable for
interior work in a modern, centrally heated house where a content of 10%
or less would be more appropriate.
Leaving it in the building to acclimatise is obviously recommended but
the drying out doesn't happen quickly. Depending on the amount of
material, it can take several weeks for, say, floorboards to reduce
across the width.
Buying either of these species from the sheds isn't recommended. In the
case of whitewood I'm not even sure they haven't discovered some new,
truly appalling species that they're allowed to call "whitewood". I'm a
real cheapskate but shed timber represents poor value compared to a
pukka merchant IME. Also, the likes of B&Q simply don't have the
facilities to store timber, which should be kept under cover but in
outdoor conditions. The shrink wrap compromise doesn't seem to work very
well.
Tony Bryer
> The timber industry has long operated in imperial sizes, and imperial
> terms are still in widespread use today. However legislation has
> outlawed the sale of goods in inches and feet, so timber is marked as
> the nearest metric size to the standard imperial sizes.
Nothing to do with law: having to label stuff in metric units is
relatively recent (? last 10 years) whilst I am fairly certain that
plasterboard and chipboard went to 2400mm from 8' around the time I
started doing serious building projects 30 years ago, likewise the metric
dimensioning of timber. Also note that a 2.4m length of timber is 2.4m,
not an 8' (2438mm) with a metric label.
--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
meow...@care2.com
I think what was written has been misunderstood, I'll try to clarify
it. Thanks
NT
John Rumm
> Most timber is bought in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning
> 2"x4", however sellers must describe it in metric and an increasing
> amount of timber is bought as metric sizes.
Still wants to be 4x2 to follow UK convention.
The Natural Philosopher
generalisations that are not always the case.
e.g knotty timber is sometimes preferred in joinery for aesthetic
reasons, to name but one.
However as a rough guide to someone who knows nowt about timber, its
better than nothing by a fairly large amount.
Rather than go into horrendous detail I would say simply prefix the
section with a warning that it IS 'generalised' and further information
etc etc.. is available in more detail from specialised sites.
In particular issues to do with warping and wood movement ignore the
fact that *all* wood moves under humidity changes, and its the actual
structure of it and the way its cut that determines how it moves -
warps, bows cups and so on.
And unless you use something like structural steel to constrain it its
likeley to be stronger than anything you can throw at it when it wants
to move.
i.e when using wood in a structure it WILL move. Forever. Unless you are
not using it as the primary structure when it gets bolted or glued to
something more massive. e.g veneering onto stable substrate.
The only way to get wood to adopt new shape permanentely is via
steaming and/or ammonia treatment. Beyind noraml D--Y usage.
Ergo I would not tell people how to TRY and strighten wood. If it aint
straight cut it into bits that are, or throw it away, or use it where it
really doesn't matter.
meow...@care2.com
OK. I was thinking more about problem movement than all movement. I
think that level of detail would be good for a timber article rather
than timber basics. Maybe that'll come next.
NT
The Natural Philosopher
Yep. I thnik that as a basic D-I-Y intro to lumber the article was
pretty good, its the danger of stating as facts things which are more
complicated than they appear and not in every instance true, that is the
constant bugbear of anyone trying to distil a complex subject into a
simple guide for the fairly ignorant.
Its a bit like
"I before E, except after C"
.. which has so maney execptions, but is still useful, so you add
"as long as the word, sounds like the sea.."
Which is better, because rein, deity. reification and the like are now
correctly identified...
But then you get 'ceiling' and 'seize'
So once again its in the ultimate analysis down to individal cases, and
no general rule that is universally applicable.
The more I workd with wood in a structural context,the more I realise
how much there is that I am either ignorant of, or not sure about.
Take the statement about heartwood being rot resistant, and the pith
never. I can't say that has been my experience at all. Ive got firewood
cut and left in the rain for years, and its rotten all the way through
with very little discrimination between the parts. POSSIBLY the outer
rings rot a bit faster than the inner.
Other useful things in understanding wood movement are that after first
drying down to average internal humidities, you can get something like
1% variation along the grain, about 2% in the direction of the original
radius of a trunk, and abuut 3% tangential or circumferentuially to the
bole. THis allows you to dentify wood that wont cup (quarter sawn .Even
close surface grain) from planks that will (flat sawn with wide wavy
grain patterns). In addition wood that has grown laterally from a tree
(check for rings closer underneath than above - and eccentricly placed
heartwood, in effect) will always show differentlial mopvment between
almost any tow parts. '
Going from green to dry is something like 4 times all of those..
Wood left on a building site - e.g. rafters stacked outside and put up
and left for a period before being covered, even if dried OK in the
first place, will still shrink by around 30% of green values once in place.
I know you will hate me for saying this, but by and large I eschew real
wood for major structural work wherever possible, and use composites
like PLY or MDF or chip or indeed steel, to make structural elements.
Wood is lovely and decorative, but the art of getting a structure that
allows movement is fairly rare in carpentry, though known to most of the
better joiners and cabinet makers, and it takes time and money to
produce and attractive wood structure than wont shift and move to the
point of visible warping cracking or breaking of glue joints etc.
I thoroughly recommend Hoadley's 'Understanding Wood' as a book that
perhaps you should read cover to cover, and then try and distil the main
points down into a wiki. It's where mosts of the info quoted here comes
from, and its also one of the best books I know on the properties of
wood as an engineering material, and practical guides to using it in
that context, as well as having some excellent tables. Sadly I gave my
copy to one of the carpenters who built my house, as a Christmas
present. I haven't replaced it yet, but I will.
For anyone going beyond just whacking up some rough sawn 2x4 for
studwork, its a must.
His anecdote about rolling marbles on a kitchen worktop build with wet
timber framing (accurately) after it had dried (no longer anything like
level) is significant...
>
> NT
Pete C
Good article but:
> When timber is sold in metric, the stated size is the size you get.
I would say:
When timber is sold as 'finished size' the stated size is what you
get'
'Some large timber yards have a thicknesser for planing timber to a
required size'
'With small mouldings and 'stripwood' the stated size is usually what
you get.'
cheers,
Pete.
Pete C
> ==Buying Wood==
> Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is
> ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the
> wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known
> for sometimes using new customers to clear junk.
I would just say:
'Where all timber needs to be absolutely straight, most reputable
timber yards will allow you to hand pick wood for later delivery'
and follow with:
>
> ==Problem Wood==
> Bent stock is a regular problem.
'Bent stock is rarely found at reputable timber yards, but can be more
common at discount DIY retailers.'
BTW where do you buy your wood meow? ;)
cheers,
Pete.
Pete C
Couple more points:
> ===Whitewood===
> Whitewood is spruce timber intended for [[First fix & second fix|first
> fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project
> is complete. It may have some splits & stains and some warp.
>
> [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood.
>
> The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a
> percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]].
>
> Spruce doesn't take dyes well, and preservatives have limited
> penetration.
>
Whitewood is usually spruce.
Whitewood is generally characterised by having a larger number of
larger knots, and the end grain shows growth rings that are wider
(Wider growth rings indicate a faster growing timber).
> ===Redwood===
> Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix|
> second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the
> project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and
> generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an
> issue.
>
> Redwood is generally spruce, fir or pine.
Redwood is usually pine.
Redwood is characterised by a smaller number of smaller knots, and the
end grain shows growth rings that are narrower. (Narrower growth rings
indicating a slow growing timber).
BTW some pictures in the DIY wiki may help illustrate different types
of timber.
cheers,
Pete.
stuart noble
>
> Redwood is usually pine.
>
There are over 100 species of pine, most of them commercially available
as timber.
geoff
Philosopher <a@b.c> writes
Now I've seen everything ...
--
geoff
Rod
type what they should. Just like me - except I do try to go back over
and correct what I notice.
stuart noble
I believe there's a new fangled invention called a spell checker
Dave Liquorice
> I believe there's a new fangled invention called a spell checker
Eye halve a spelling chequer
It came with my pea sea
It plainly marques four my revue
Miss steaks eye kin knot sea
Eye strike a key and type a word
And weight four it two say
Weather eye am wrong oar write
It shows me strait a weigh
As soon as a mist ache is maid
It nose bee four two long
And eye can put the error rite
Its rare lea ever wrong
Eye have run this poem threw it
am shore your pleased two no
Its letter perfect awl the weigh
My chequer tolled me sew.
--
Cheers
Dave.
The Natural Philosopher
FWIW my spelling is around 99.8% good. My typing is around one missed
key in six. Not helped byfag ash in the keyboards.
Sometimes I can't be bothered to correct it.
meow...@care2.com
> Hi
>
> Bit of feedback would be good before this timber basics wiki article
> goes live, since it covers patches I dont know a lot about.... here
Thanks to everyone for pitching in. Here it is
http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Timber_basics&rcid=9340
The points made that weren't included I hope to include at some poin
in a more in depth article.
cheers, NT