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Two stroke engine starting (yet again!)
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John Rumm
Mar 15, 2012, 6:36:24 PM3/15/12
to
My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with a
couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
position and off it would go first or second pull.
Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not
quite as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a
peep out of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter
spray. That eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it
even with that.
Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
everything else seems to run fine on it)
So what else am I missing?
Parts diagram:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
Tim
Mar 15, 2012, 6:56:01 PM3/15/12
to
John Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with a
> couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>
> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not
> quite as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a
> peep out of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter
> spray. That eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it even with that.
>
> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
> fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
> mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
> everything else seems to run fine on it)
>
> So what else am I missing?
>
> Parts diagram:
>
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
>
Two strokes are just like that. ;-). Alternatively, is it possible that the
> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with a
> couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>
> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not
> quite as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a
> peep out of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter
> spray. That eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it even with that.
>
> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
> fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
> mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
> everything else seems to run fine on it)
>
> So what else am I missing?
>
> Parts diagram:
>
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
>
flywheel/magneto has slipped on the crankshaft throwing the ignition timing
out?
Tim
John Rumm
Mar 15, 2012, 7:19:53 PM3/15/12
to
when is the spark supposed to be, just after the piston passes TDC?
Once started the other day it did run ok, although I am not sure it had
quite the power it should have had.
Dave Liquorice
Mar 15, 2012, 8:26:24 PM3/15/12
to
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 23:19:53 +0000, John Rumm wrote:
> Don't know - I suppose it should be possible to see easily enough...
> when is the spark supposed to be, just after the piston passes TDC?
4 strokes just before, it takes a finite amount of time for the
> Don't know - I suppose it should be possible to see easily enough...
> when is the spark supposed to be, just after the piston passes TDC?
mixture to ignite and you want the peak of the bang to be just fract
after TDC. This why the spark is advanced as the revs go up on larger
4 stroke engines. Donno if small two strokes have advance, I should
imagine they do.
> Once started the other day it did run ok, although I am not sure it had
> quite the power it should have had.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Dave Plowman (News)
Mar 15, 2012, 8:50:23 PM3/15/12
to
In article <dfudnSoFseSH5P_S...@brightview.co.uk>,
in four stroke terms - IIRC, about 30 degrees. No auto advance mechanism.
If the plug is wet, it's either not firing properly or the mixture is too
rich.
--
*When cheese gets it's picture taken, what does it say?
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
John Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote:
> Don't know - I suppose it should be possible to see easily enough...
> when is the spark supposed to be, just after the piston passes TDC?
Only two stroke I had was a Vespa years ago and it had rather high advance
> Don't know - I suppose it should be possible to see easily enough...
> when is the spark supposed to be, just after the piston passes TDC?
in four stroke terms - IIRC, about 30 degrees. No auto advance mechanism.
If the plug is wet, it's either not firing properly or the mixture is too
rich.
--
*When cheese gets it's picture taken, what does it say?
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
F Murtz
Mar 15, 2012, 10:03:20 PM3/15/12
to
John Rumm wrote:
>
> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with a
> couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>
> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not
> quite as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a
> peep out of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter
> spray. That eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it
> even with that.
>
> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
> fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
> mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
> everything else seems to run fine on it)
>
> So what else am I missing?
>
> Parts diagram:
>
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
>
>
>
Look at carburetor, diaphragms (holes in),blockages,and such.
>
> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with a
> couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>
> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not
> quite as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a
> peep out of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter
> spray. That eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it
> even with that.
>
> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
> fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
> mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
> everything else seems to run fine on it)
>
> So what else am I missing?
>
> Parts diagram:
>
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
>
>
>
Nthkentman
Mar 16, 2012, 2:30:00 AM3/16/12
to
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:j7idnSCHhPVw8__S...@brightview.co.uk...
>
> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with a
> couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>
> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not quite
> as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a peep out
> of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter spray. That
> eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it even with that.
>
> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
> fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
> mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
> everything else seems to run fine on it)
>
> So what else am I missing?
>
> Parts diagram:
>
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
Rip the carb off.
> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with a
> couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>
> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not quite
> as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a peep out
> of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter spray. That
> eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it even with that.
>
> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
> fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
> mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
> everything else seems to run fine on it)
>
> So what else am I missing?
>
> Parts diagram:
>
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
Clean thoroughly with a good fuel system cleaner (Redex etc) by soaking the
inside overnight or use a good carb cleaner spray
Blow all orifices clear with airline. Don't prod around with a piece of
wire.
Replace *all* carb interior components that are in a kit for the purpose.
Page H 192 021-151-540 Gasket Set and any others if not included in the set
Check spindles on throttle shaft are not as slack as a sausage up an allwy,
(Air will leak in more so mixture goes to cock)
Renew plug
Renew gaskets
Change ring and head gasket if compression is low and last of all ensure the
casings are not leaking air into the mix
I've rebuilt dozens of thses units when in Hire trade and they are robust
harry
Mar 16, 2012, 3:41:53 AM3/16/12
to
On Mar 15, 10:36 pm, John Rumm <see.my.signat...@nowhere.null> wrote:
> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with a
> couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>
> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not
> quite as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a
> peep out of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter
> spray. That eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it
> even with that.
>
> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
> fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
> mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
> everything else seems to run fine on it)
>
> So what else am I missing?
>
> Parts diagram:
>
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-...
> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with a
> couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>
> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not
> quite as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a
> peep out of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter
> spray. That eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it
> even with that.
>
> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
> fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
> mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
> everything else seems to run fine on it)
>
> So what else am I missing?
>
> Parts diagram:
>
>
> --
> Cheers,
>
> John.
>
> /=================================================================\
> | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
> |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
> | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
> \=================================================================/
A lot of them don't have carburretors any more. The thing that looks
> --
> Cheers,
>
> John.
>
> /=================================================================\
> | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
> |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
> | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
> \=================================================================/
like the carb is in fact a fuel injector. It is worked off the air
pulsations that orginate in the crankcase. So it is a tiny pump with
two little flap valves. The pump diaphragm and valves are in the form
of a sheet of "rubber-like" material that deteriorates and has to be
replaced from time to time.
There is no float/float chamber etc.
A device like this works any way up.
Another likely cause is just muck, blocking something up in the fuel
system.
Oh and check the air vent on the fuel tank. Could be blocked.
MuddyMike
Mar 16, 2012, 3:58:20 AM3/16/12
to
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:j7idnSCHhPVw8__S...@brightview.co.uk...
>
> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with a
> couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>
> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not quite
> as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a peep out
> of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter spray. That
> eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it even with that.
>
> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
> fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
> mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
> everything else seems to run fine on it)
>
> So what else am I missing?
>
> Parts diagram:
>
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
>
It probably needs a new diaphragm
> couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>
> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not quite
> as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a peep out
> of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter spray. That
> eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it even with that.
>
> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is not
> fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher petrol
> mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months old, but
> everything else seems to run fine on it)
>
> So what else am I missing?
>
> Parts diagram:
>
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
>
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/pump-diaphragm-9589-p-73138.html
Mike
Dave Liquorice
Mar 16, 2012, 4:19:29 AM3/16/12
to
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 07:58:20 -0000, MuddyMike wrote:
> It probably needs a new diaphragm
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/pump-diaphragm-9589-p-73138.html
Or the existing one wasn't put back in just the right place so one or
> It probably needs a new diaphragm
> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/pump-diaphragm-9589-p-73138.html
more the flap valves aren't working properly. Had that on my mower,
started to run very rich, took the card of an one of flaps was jamed
into the hole it was supposed to cover. Corrected that and it's been
fine since, several seasons...
--
Cheers
Dave.
John Rumm
Mar 16, 2012, 7:48:20 AM3/16/12
to
not fully dismantle to see all the gaskets. I will have another go.
Anyone know a good supplier of parts in the UK? Bit annoying that the
gasket set is $7 at the US spars places, and £16 - £20 here!
> Check spindles on throttle shaft are not as slack as a sausage up an
> allwy, (Air will leak in more so mixture goes to cock)
> Renew plug
> Renew gaskets
>
> Change ring and head gasket if compression is low and last of all ensure
> the casings are not leaking air into the mix
> I've rebuilt dozens of thses units when in Hire trade and they are robust
This one does not get particularly heavy use. It used to belong to a
mate of mine who is (now) a retired builder - so he only used
intermittently for the occasional bit of demolition / roof alterations
etc. I only use it probably half a dozen times a year...
Andy Dingley
Mar 17, 2012, 6:10:46 PM3/17/12
to
On Mar 16, 7:41 am, harry <haroldhr...@aol.com> wrote:
> A lot of them don't have carburretors any more.
Of course they do, what you've just described is a diaphram carburetor
> A lot of them don't have carburretors any more.
(works any way up), rather than a float carburetor.
John Rumm
Mar 23, 2012, 6:22:37 AM3/23/12
to
On 16/03/2012 06:30, Nthkentman wrote:
>
>
> "John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
> news:j7idnSCHhPVw8__S...@brightview.co.uk...
>>
>> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with
>> a couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
>> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>>
>> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not
>> quite as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a
>> peep out of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter
>> spray. That eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it
>> even with that.
>>
>> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is
>> not fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher
>> petrol mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months
>> old, but everything else seems to run fine on it)
>>
>> So what else am I missing?
>>
>> Parts diagram:
>>
>> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
>>
An update for any that are following...
> news:j7idnSCHhPVw8__S...@brightview.co.uk...
>>
>> My chainsaw always used to be very easy to start... turn it over with
>> a couple of pulls, then ignition on, choke out, throttle in starting
>> position and off it would go first or second pull.
>>
>> Now I had it serviced last year, and it was "ok" after that, but not
>> quite as easy to start. Went to use it this year, and could not get a
>> peep out of it. Gave up, and tried a few days later with some starter
>> spray. That eventually got it going. The next time, could not start it
>> even with that.
>>
>> Its got a good string spark. The plug seems to be getting wet and is
>> not fouled. Fuel line is clear as is the air filter. Tried a fresher
>> petrol mix (super unleaded - from my large can - so probably 8 months
>> old, but everything else seems to run fine on it)
>>
>> So what else am I missing?
>>
>> Parts diagram:
>>
>> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-dcs430-43cc-chainsaw-parts-c-97_98_245_10188.html
>>
> Rip the carb off.
> Clean thoroughly with a good fuel system cleaner (Redex etc) by soaking
> the inside overnight or use a good carb cleaner spray
> Blow all orifices clear with airline. Don't prod around with a piece of
> wire.
spotless inside - the carb was clean with no deposits, the membranes
looked fine. The cylinder bore and piston rings again perfect condition.
However I carefully blew out all the nooks and crannies just in case
there was debris in there that was not obvious.
> Replace *all* carb interior components that are in a kit for the
> purpose. Page H 192 021-151-540 Gasket Set and any others if not
> included in the set
difference that made.
> Check spindles on throttle shaft are not as slack as a sausage up an
> allwy, (Air will leak in more so mixture goes to cock)
> Renew plug
> Renew gaskets
New as of last service and its only done a couple of hours run time
since then. However I gave the plug a good brush clean anyway.
> Change ring and head gasket if compression is low and last of all ensure
> the casings are not leaking air into the mix
> I've rebuilt dozens of thses units when in Hire trade and they are robust
on its right hand side when first trying (so the fuel pipe and feed to
the carb are at the "bottom"). Which makes me wonder if may be suffering
slight fuel starvation. Perhaps the resistance through the clunk and the
fuel filter are higher than they ought to be? Might get a new filter set
and see if that helps.
Now trying to remember if it was stored over the winter with petrol in
it or not... Would letting the fuel system dry out be more likely to
leave residue in the fuel filter? (I am using the red Stihl two stroke
oil in case its relevant)
Tim Lamb
Mar 23, 2012, 7:04:17 AM3/23/12
to
In message <ouidnaiB4uJt0_HS...@brightview.co.uk>, John
Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes
McCulloch has a foam filter which responds to removal and manual
squeezing.
those.
regards
>
>
--
Tim Lamb
Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes
>Anyway, I found that I can start it now, but its easier if one lays it
>on its right hand side when first trying (so the fuel pipe and feed to
>the carb are at the "bottom"). Which makes me wonder if may be
>suffering slight fuel starvation. Perhaps the resistance through the
>clunk and the fuel filter are higher than they ought to be? Might get a
>new filter set and see if that helps.
Could it be the in tank filter? Is there a non-return valve. My
>on its right hand side when first trying (so the fuel pipe and feed to
>the carb are at the "bottom"). Which makes me wonder if may be
>suffering slight fuel starvation. Perhaps the resistance through the
>clunk and the fuel filter are higher than they ought to be? Might get a
>new filter set and see if that helps.
McCulloch has a foam filter which responds to removal and manual
squeezing.
>
>Now trying to remember if it was stored over the winter with petrol in
>it or not... Would letting the fuel system dry out be more likely to
>leave residue in the fuel filter? (I am using the red Stihl two stroke
>oil in case its relevant)
Certainly get gummy deposits on the carb. jets but you have cleaned
>Now trying to remember if it was stored over the winter with petrol in
>it or not... Would letting the fuel system dry out be more likely to
>leave residue in the fuel filter? (I am using the red Stihl two stroke
>oil in case its relevant)
those.
regards
>
>
--
Tim Lamb
The Natural Philosopher
Mar 23, 2012, 7:44:05 AM3/23/12
to
John Rumm wrote:
>. Which makes me wonder if may be suffering
> slight fuel starvation. Perhaps the resistance through the clunk and the
> fuel filter are higher than they ought to be? Might get a new filter set
> and see if that helps.
>
> Now trying to remember if it was stored over the winter with petrol in
> it or not... Would letting the fuel system dry out be more likely to
> leave residue in the fuel filter? (I am using the red Stihl two stroke
> oil in case its relevant)
>
>
Happened to me - hedgecutter WOULD NOT start till I washed the clunk in
>. Which makes me wonder if may be suffering
> slight fuel starvation. Perhaps the resistance through the clunk and the
> fuel filter are higher than they ought to be? Might get a new filter set
> and see if that helps.
>
> Now trying to remember if it was stored over the winter with petrol in
> it or not... Would letting the fuel system dry out be more likely to
> leave residue in the fuel filter? (I am using the red Stihl two stroke
> oil in case its relevant)
>
>
new fuel and blew backwards through it..
--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.
John Rumm
Mar 23, 2012, 5:19:37 PM3/23/12
to
On 23/03/2012 11:04, Tim Lamb wrote:
> In message <ouidnaiB4uJt0_HS...@brightview.co.uk>, John
> Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes
>> Anyway, I found that I can start it now, but its easier if one lays it
>> on its right hand side when first trying (so the fuel pipe and feed to
>> the carb are at the "bottom"). Which makes me wonder if may be
>> suffering slight fuel starvation. Perhaps the resistance through the
>> clunk and the fuel filter are higher than they ought to be? Might get
>> a new filter set and see if that helps.
>
> Could it be the in tank filter? Is there a non-return valve. My
> McCulloch has a foam filter which responds to removal and manual squeezing.
Yup, that is the one I was thinking off... I shall fish it out and see
> In message <ouidnaiB4uJt0_HS...@brightview.co.uk>, John
> Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes
>> Anyway, I found that I can start it now, but its easier if one lays it
>> on its right hand side when first trying (so the fuel pipe and feed to
>> the carb are at the "bottom"). Which makes me wonder if may be
>> suffering slight fuel starvation. Perhaps the resistance through the
>> clunk and the fuel filter are higher than they ought to be? Might get
>> a new filter set and see if that helps.
>
> Could it be the in tank filter? Is there a non-return valve. My
> McCulloch has a foam filter which responds to removal and manual squeezing.
what gives ;-)
>> Now trying to remember if it was stored over the winter with petrol in
>> it or not... Would letting the fuel system dry out be more likely to
>> leave residue in the fuel filter? (I am using the red Stihl two stroke
>> oil in case its relevant)
>
> Certainly get gummy deposits on the carb. jets but you have cleaned those.
>
> regards
>>
>>
>
--
brass monkey
Mar 23, 2012, 8:55:20 PM3/23/12
to
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
> On 23/03/2012 11:04, Tim Lamb wrote:
>> In message <ouidnaiB4uJt0_HS...@brightview.co.uk>, John
>> Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes
>>> Anyway, I found that I can start it now, but its easier if one lays it
>>> on its right hand side when first trying (so the fuel pipe and feed to
>>> the carb are at the "bottom"). Which makes me wonder if may be
>>> suffering slight fuel starvation. Perhaps the resistance through the
>>> clunk and the fuel filter are higher than they ought to be? Might get
>>> a new filter set and see if that helps.
>>
>> Could it be the in tank filter? Is there a non-return valve. My
>> McCulloch has a foam filter which responds to removal and manual
>> squeezing.
>
> Yup, that is the one I was thinking off... I shall fish it out and see
> what gives ;-)
I think you should ask our Rodders, he's bound to know.
>> In message <ouidnaiB4uJt0_HS...@brightview.co.uk>, John
>> Rumm <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> writes
>>> Anyway, I found that I can start it now, but its easier if one lays it
>>> on its right hand side when first trying (so the fuel pipe and feed to
>>> the carb are at the "bottom"). Which makes me wonder if may be
>>> suffering slight fuel starvation. Perhaps the resistance through the
>>> clunk and the fuel filter are higher than they ought to be? Might get
>>> a new filter set and see if that helps.
>>
>> Could it be the in tank filter? Is there a non-return valve. My
>> McCulloch has a foam filter which responds to removal and manual
>> squeezing.
>
> Yup, that is the one I was thinking off... I shall fish it out and see
> what gives ;-)
Or maybe the loo tennant.
*ahem*
John Rumm
Mar 24, 2012, 8:28:25 AM3/24/12
to
> Or maybe the loo tennant.
John Rumm
Mar 24, 2012, 8:31:01 AM3/24/12
to
On 23/03/2012 11:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> John Rumm wrote:
>> . Which makes me wonder if may be suffering slight fuel starvation.
>> Perhaps the resistance through the clunk and the fuel filter are
>> higher than they ought to be? Might get a new filter set and see if
>> that helps.
>>
>> Now trying to remember if it was stored over the winter with petrol in
>> it or not... Would letting the fuel system dry out be more likely to
>> leave residue in the fuel filter? (I am using the red Stihl two stroke
>> oil in case its relevant)
>>
>>
> Happened to me - hedgecutter WOULD NOT start till I washed the clunk in
> new fuel and blew backwards through it..
It may have been that I made a specific effort to drain fluids from it
> John Rumm wrote:
>> . Which makes me wonder if may be suffering slight fuel starvation.
>> Perhaps the resistance through the clunk and the fuel filter are
>> higher than they ought to be? Might get a new filter set and see if
>> that helps.
>>
>> Now trying to remember if it was stored over the winter with petrol in
>> it or not... Would letting the fuel system dry out be more likely to
>> leave residue in the fuel filter? (I am using the red Stihl two stroke
>> oil in case its relevant)
>>
>>
> Happened to me - hedgecutter WOULD NOT start till I washed the clunk in
> new fuel and blew backwards through it..
last year before putting it away for the winter! Seems like just leaving
it on the shelf is a better solution.
(although I need to drain the chain oil otherwise that just oozes out
and makes everything ikky in the vicinity!)
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