OT: How can I glue a broken nylon gear?
Joerg
We were given a coocoo clock. I fixed it but must say that I was not
enthused about the quality of its innards. Long story short it all works
now except for the music and the dancing figurines. A nylon gear is
broken length-wise on one side. Sure enough this is the little gear
right before the air brake, meaning the one with the highest wear.
Wonder why that is nylon while the others are brass ...
Any ideas which adhesive would work here? Ideally something I can get in
the store. Google hasn't helped me on this one, there were only hints on
how to fix tent nylon and stuff like that. Reason I ask is that I have
exactly one chance to fix it with adhesive.
Regards, Joerg
Luhan Monat
Your only hope may be superglue. Even better if you first clean it
using something they called 'cyanoprep'.
--
Luhan Monat: luhanis(at)yahoo(dot)com
http://members.cox.net/berniekm
"Any sufficiently advanced magick is
indistinguishable from technology."
Joerg
> Your only hope may be superglue. Even better if you first clean it
> using something they called 'cyanoprep'.
That's what I was afraid it would be. I have seen superglue "eat"
portions of a similar part before.
Regards, Joerg
Frank Bemelman
news:6A4ne.23259$J12...@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com...
Perhaps drill small holes on both sides of the crack, and 'sew'
it together with thin steel wire. Then cover the needlework with
Bison kit(tm). Or any other glue based on cyclohexaan, methylethylketon,
nafta, n-hexaan and ethylacetaat <g>.
--
Thanks, Frank.
(remove 'q' and 'invalid' when replying by email)
Joerg
> Perhaps drill small holes on both sides of the crack, and 'sew'
> it together with thin steel wire. Then cover the needlework with
> Bison kit(tm). Or any other glue based on cyclohexaan, methylethylketon,
> nafta, n-hexaan and ethylacetaat <g>.
That's a great method and I would have done it. But this gear is only
5mm in diameter and 3mm long.
Regards, Joerg
Jim Thompson
Have you considered casting your own gear?
I don't think you can glue nylon.
I've not made gears, but I've duplicated less complex parts by using
casting latex to make a mold.
For instance, make a "sacrificial" mold, fill it with epoxy, then rip
away the mold.
...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
Frank Bemelman
> Hello Frank,
>
> > Perhaps drill small holes on both sides of the crack, and 'sew'
> > it together with thin steel wire. Then cover the needlework with
> > Bison kit(tm). Or any other glue based on cyclohexaan, methylethylketon,
> > nafta, n-hexaan and ethylacetaat <g>.
>
> That's a great method and I would have done it. But this gear is only
> 5mm in diameter and 3mm long.
Ai, that's a small one. It is/was probably a press-fit gear, driving
a shaft rather than a free rotating intermediate gear. Once you remove
the shaft, the gap is probably closed. The pressure on such gears is
insane, glue won't hold that. You have to make a new one, not impossible
if you have a jewelers lathe and mill.
Joerg
> Have you considered casting your own gear?
That's a good idea. This whole thing came up when our former neighbors
visited last week. The husband said he could probably make a new gear
from brass. I just wanted to see whether there is an easier solution and
I could spare him the trouble. Plus they live across the ocean.
> I don't think you can glue nylon.
My gut feeling told me that, too. But engineering minds don't give up
until they know for sure...
Regards, Joerg
Joerg
> ... You have to make a new one, not impossible
> if you have a jewelers lathe and mill.
Been dreaming about having that for years. Maybe one day, when I retire.
If our generation can ever retire, that is.
I think you are right about the shaft. It may have been a press fit gear
before it broke.
Regards, Joerg
John Fields
---
I've never found anything that worked really well on Nylon, but these
folks might have something...
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=Nylon+glue&hl=en&lr=&sa=N&tab=ff&oi=froogler
--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer
Lasse Langwadt Christensen
> Hello Frank,
>
>> Perhaps drill small holes on both sides of the crack, and 'sew'
>> it together with thin steel wire. Then cover the needlework with
>> Bison kit(tm). Or any other glue based on cyclohexaan, methylethylketon,
>> nafta, n-hexaan and ethylacetaat <g>.
>
>
> That's a great method and I would have done it. But this gear is only
> 5mm in diameter and 3mm long.
>
Have you tried to see if you can find another one that fits? sound like
something that could be found in a model RC car or RC servo
-Lasse
Joerg
> Have you tried to see if you can find another one that fits? sound like
> something that could be found in a model RC car or RC servo
That is another option but the gear is longer than most RC stuff. I
haven't seen a US supplier but in Europe there is a company called
"Selva" that supplies spare parts to watch makers. However, if you order
just one part and have it shipped to the US that gets expensive.
Regards, Joerg
Joerg
> I've never found anything that worked really well on Nylon, but these
> folks might have something...
>
> http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=Nylon+glue&hl=en&lr=&sa=N&tab=ff&oi=froogler
Thanks! That is an interesting supplier. They say that their Pacer nylon
hinge glue will micro-etch. Maybe that and a somewhat loosened press-fit
of the gear does the trick. All this gear does is drive the air brake to
provide a somewhat regulated speed.
Regards, Joerg
Rich Grise
To be honest, I'm kind of hoping that you'll cast a gear and take
pictures of the whole process. :-)
I was going to suggest getting ahold of a piece of nylon and _carve_
one, but giving it a little thought, that's kind of a silly idea. :-)
Good Luck!
Rich
Joerg
> To be honest, I'm kind of hoping that you'll cast a gear and take
> pictures of the whole process. :-)
Along with my wife's face when she sees the resulting mess in the garage.
> I was going to suggest getting ahold of a piece of nylon and _carve_
> one, but giving it a little thought, that's kind of a silly idea. :-)
Actually I have "cut" a larger and slower running gear using a scroll
saw. If the saw still has decent bearings it can be done. Just not with
such small gears.
Regards, Joerg
Si Ballenger
<thegr...@example.com> wrote:
>On Tue, 31 May 2005 22:05:49 GMT, Joerg
><notthis...@removethispacbell.net> wrote:
>
>>Hello Frank,
>>
>>> Perhaps drill small holes on both sides of the crack, and 'sew'
>>> it together with thin steel wire. Then cover the needlework with
>>> Bison kit(tm). Or any other glue based on cyclohexaan, methylethylketon,
>>> nafta, n-hexaan and ethylacetaat <g>.
>>
>>That's a great method and I would have done it. But this gear is only
>>5mm in diameter and 3mm long.
>>
>>Regards, Joerg
>>
>>http://www.analogconsultants.com
>
>Have you considered casting your own gear?
>
>I don't think you can glue nylon.
>
>I've not made gears, but I've duplicated less complex parts by using
>casting latex to make a mold.
>
>For instance, make a "sacrificial" mold, fill it with epoxy, then rip
>away the mold.
Silicone sealant might work for the mold material. Fill the
center of the gear with the sealant, then put the gear down into
a thimble sized container of sealant. Might have to carefully
work the gear out with a straight pin or something similar to not
destroy the mold. Fill the mold with epoxy like JBweld. Keeping
the shaft hole in the center aligned might be a challange. Small
work, but low cost.
Spehro Pefhany
I tried to fix an injection-molded nylon gear years ago that was part
of a VCR drive mechanism (to give you an idea of how long ago it was,
I paid $1,800 for the VCR, when a grilled-cheese sandwich and fries
was $1.25**) but with little luck. The main problem was that it broke
at the D-shaft (the drive) where all the force was.
My suggestion is to forget about trying to fix the gear, and
concentrate on finding a replacement. Comb all the local surplus shops
for little mechanisms like tape counters etc. that might have
(presumably metric) gears like that. You can make some measurements
and figure out the pitch or metric module (0.5mm maybe) of the gear
and the number of teeth (you can drill out or sleeve the shaft most
likely).
** I paid more like C$10.00 including tax & tip for a grilled cheese
sandwich and fries recently, but admittedly it was made with blue
cheese and peameal ("Canadian") bacon. ;-)
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
sp...@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
Joerg
> I tried to fix an injection-molded nylon gear years ago that was part
> of a VCR drive mechanism (to give you an idea of how long ago it was,
> I paid $1,800 for the VCR, when a grilled-cheese sandwich and fries
> was $1.25**) but with little luck.
All I had in those days was a tube radio. But it was all I needed
because it had shortwave. The video recorder we had in school was like a
tape recorder. You had to make the spool at the far end catch the tape.
You guys in Canada will slowly kill yourselves with all that melted
cheese stuff, poutine and so on. Ever checked cholesterol levels ...?
> ...The main problem was that it broke
> at the D-shaft (the drive) where all the force was.
I believe mine would break just where it did before, or develop a
similar crack elsewhere.
> My suggestion is to forget about trying to fix the gear, and
> concentrate on finding a replacement. ...
Yes, I think that message is sinking in. Maybe I do ask my friend to
make one, or do the sacrificial mold thing.
Regards, Joerg
Spehro Pefhany
<notthis...@removethispacbell.net> wrote:
>Hello Spehro,
>
>> I tried to fix an injection-molded nylon gear years ago that was part
>> of a VCR drive mechanism (to give you an idea of how long ago it was,
>> I paid $1,800 for the VCR, when a grilled-cheese sandwich and fries
>> was $1.25**) but with little luck.
>
>All I had in those days was a tube radio. But it was all I needed
>because it had shortwave. The video recorder we had in school was like a
>tape recorder. You had to make the spool at the far end catch the tape.
When I was in high school they bought a portable B&W video recorder
that was about the size of a carry-on bag, with a shoulder strap. It
cost about the price of a cheap car at the time. As a Film and TV Arts
student, I was allowed to take it home and play with it. The schools
had a ton of money back then. Unlimited 8mm film and processing.
Beatiful fully equipped auto, wood, electrical and machine shops
including EDM machines. You can imagine what kind of mischief a boy
that age could get into with a novel device such as a portable VCR.
;-)
>You guys in Canada will slowly kill yourselves with all that melted
>cheese stuff, poutine and so on. Ever checked cholesterol levels ...?
Mine's okay. ;-) In moderation, that sort of stuff's not so bad.
McDonalds, potato chips and donuts are probably a lot worse for you.
>> ...The main problem was that it broke
>> at the D-shaft (the drive) where all the force was.
>
>I believe mine would break just where it did before, or develop a
>similar crack elsewhere.
>
>> My suggestion is to forget about trying to fix the gear, and
>> concentrate on finding a replacement. ...
>
>Yes, I think that message is sinking in. Maybe I do ask my friend to
>make one, or do the sacrificial mold thing.
>
>Regards, Joerg
>
>http://www.analogconsultants.com
Richard H.
>> Have you considered casting your own gear?
>
> That's a good idea.
I agree you won't have any luck gluing a nylon part.
Try http://www.smooth-on.com for casting materials - they've manufacture
a huge selection.
Interesting tutorials, cheap starter kits, etc. If you're in for the
experience, you could get everything you need to make a medium-scale
mess for $50. :-)
Supposedly the latex molds will even duplicate finger prints if you
don't clean the master part well, so duplicting the detail shouldn't be
a problem. The hard part will probably be the press-fit shaft hole,
though perhaps it can be epoxied onto the shaft.
Richard
Mike Monett
>
> Hello Folks,
>
> We were given a coocoo clock.
[...]
> Regards, Joerg
>
> http://www.analogconsultants.com
When I need to work with nylon parts, I use a small soldering iron with the
temperature reduced so it doesn't burn the plastic. I simply melt the parts
back together and add more nylon to reinforce it wherever possible.
Practising on some scrap parts might help give you the confidence needed to
tackle this.
A backup plan might be to have another part made from brass. Someone who
works on these clocks should be able to help.
Mike Monett
cbarn...@aol.com
First use a little superglue on the crack, compress the gear to close
it and allow to set. Mix up some exopy in a suitable container, say a
small jar lid, warm it up,70degC, so it is liquid stand the gear in it,
teeth vertical, so the resin just covers it and allow to set. Place in
an oven at 180deg C for an hour, the nylon should melt thus reforming
the gear. Allow to cool and remove from the resin.
Terry Pinnell
Following the same principle (of first trying on similar material), I
wonder if chloroform would work?
I came off the bike I'd just had as a Christmas present when I was 14
(over enthusiastic braking) and cracked a plastic mudguard. I was into
Chemistry as a hobby then, so when I got back to school a few days
later I helped myself to a little chloroform from the lab. I recall it
made a reasonable repair. Not sure about nylon. Try as many similar
solvents as you can. Of course, the challenge will probably be finding
those scraps of test material first!
--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
Mike Monett
[..]
> Following the same principle (of first trying on similar material), I
> wonder if chloroform would work?
>
> I came off the bike I'd just had as a Christmas present when I was 14
> (over enthusiastic braking) and cracked a plastic mudguard. I was into
> Chemistry as a hobby then, so when I got back to school a few days
> later I helped myself to a little chloroform from the lab. I recall it
> made a reasonable repair. Not sure about nylon. Try as many similar
> solvents as you can. Of course, the challenge will probably be finding
> those scraps of test material first!
>
> Terry Pinnell
> Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
Hi Terry,
On the chloroform, what kind of bottle was it stored in? Maybe nylon? As
I understand it, nylon is not affected by most solvents. Here's one
reference:
"Solvent Resistance: Nylon is resistant to practically all commercial
solvents."
http://www.thermoclad.com/HTML/pr-nylon11.html
For experimenting, I found lots of cheap nylon fittings and pipe in the
plumbing section of a large hardware store. You could probably get a
lifetime supply for the price of a cup of coffee:)
Mike Monett
Terry Pinnell
This was a long time ago, Mike, shortly after the invention of
electricity and indoor plumbing <g>. So the chloroform was in the same
sort of bottle as the concentrated nitric acid, ammonia, and
everything else - GLASS!
My bike's mudguards were a sort of brittle white plastic.
--
Richard H.
> Try http://www.smooth-on.com for casting materials
Make that http://smooth-on.com (www isn't resolving).
Robert Latest
> That is another option but the gear is longer than most RC stuff. I
> haven't seen a US supplier but in Europe there is a company called
> "Selva" that supplies spare parts to watch makers. However, if you order
> just one part and have it shipped to the US that gets expensive.
I often buy from Maedler in Germany. They have all the standard
size gears, timing belts, everything. Maybe there's a rep near
you.
robert
Robert Latest
> That's a great method and I would have done it. But this gear is only
> 5mm in diameter and 3mm long.
Why don't you look if it is a standard size/module and just buy a
replacement?
BTW, nylon gears are often used to reduce noise.
robert
apprentice_nerd
This could be useful to you
http://www.machinedesign.com/BDE/FASTENING/bdefj1/bdefj1_5.html
especially look at fusion bonding and solvent bonding
but to be on the safe side measure and sketch the gear
before you attempt anything :)
You might need to have it machined at your local shop if
it fails to bond or if you were wrong about it being made
from nylon.If it is very old clock it may be made from bakelite
and this is very difficult and costly to fix in a reliable way.
Spehro Pefhany
(apprentice_nerd) wrote:
Old-style horologists ("clockmakers") can create pretty much any
repair part from scratch with little more than a lathe, hand tools,
skill and experience.
Tim Shoppa
clear to me from your description if this is in the movement or in the
music box. I think you're talking about the gear which couples from
the music box to move the figurines? Entire replacement music boxes
run $10-$20 (governor mechanisms are like half the price, and maybe
that's what you need), entire replacement mechanisms run $30-$40 at the
low end, and these would probably be a step up in quality from what you
have.
Tim.
la...@larwe.com
> Try http://www.smooth-on.com for casting materials - they've manufacture
> a huge selection.
I second this recommendation. I used Smooth-On castable urethanes at a
previous job (well, actually, I was not employed to do plastics work,
but I spent a lot of time in the model shop absorbing this knowledge
for my own personal projects :). Great products and _comparatively_
inexpensive.
Be careful of air bubbles and dimensional issues...
Ted Edwards
> We were given a coocoo clock. I fixed it but must say that I was not
> enthused about the quality of its innards. Long story short it all works
> now except for the music and the dancing figurines. A nylon gear is
> broken length-wise on one side.
Try http://www.smallparts.com/ They have an impressive assortment of
Delron gears.
Ted
Ted Edwards
>>You guys in Canada will slowly kill yourselves with all that melted
>>cheese stuff, poutine and so on. Ever checked cholesterol levels ...?
> Mine's okay. ;-) In moderation, that sort of stuff's not so bad.
> McDonalds, potato chips and donuts are probably a lot worse for you.
Right on! It's the trans-fats that are the really bad news. As far as
the other fats go, it depends on your metabolism. I can't think of
anything more variable than humans. As for me, at 70 I way the same as
I did at 20, eat the skin off my serving of chicken as well as that from
my wife's and consider it sinful to remove the fat from a steak unless
you give it to me. At my last cholesterol check my doctor was unable to
rate my "risk factor" because it was too low - lots of "good"
cholesterol, very little bad. Eat your heart out. :-))
Ted
Ted Edwards
> This was a long time ago, Mike, shortly after the invention of
> electricity and indoor plumbing <g>. So the chloroform was in the same
> sort of bottle as the concentrated nitric acid, ammonia, and
> everything else - GLASS!
Except HF. Back then it would have been a wax bottle. :-)
Ted
Frithiof Andreas Jensen
<cbarn...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1117602769.2...@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Place infor an hour, the nylon should melt thus reforming
> the gear. Allow to cool and remove from the resin.
Clever!
Don Klipstein
>Terry Pinnell wrote:
>
>[..]
>
>> Following the same principle (of first trying on similar material), I
>> wonder if chloroform would work?
>>
>> I came off the bike I'd just had as a Christmas present when I was 14
>> (over enthusiastic braking) and cracked a plastic mudguard. I was into
>> Chemistry as a hobby then, so when I got back to school a few days
>> later I helped myself to a little chloroform from the lab. I recall it
>> made a reasonable repair. Not sure about nylon. Try as many similar
>> solvents as you can. Of course, the challenge will probably be finding
>> those scraps of test material first!
>>
>> Terry Pinnell
>> Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
>
>Hi Terry,
>
>On the chloroform, what kind of bottle was it stored in? Maybe nylon? As
>I understand it, nylon is not affected by most solvents. Here's one
>reference:
>
>"Solvent Resistance: Nylon is resistant to practically all commercial
>solvents."
>
> http://www.thermoclad.com/HTML/pr-nylon11.html
I believe the same is true of at least most grades of polyethylene, also
polypropylene and PTFE ("Teflon", etc).
- Don Klipstein (d...@misty.com)
Joerg
Thanks for the newsgroup hint, I'll subscribe to that one.
It isn't the link to the figurines but the last gear on the music box.
The gear drives the air brake to achieve a somewhat regulated speed. The
tap off to the figurines happens a few gears earlier. It's a special
music box and I might be able to squeeze in another. But the ones for
coocoo clocks (able to tap off for the figurine gears) are quite pricey
in single qties.
Well, I'll either try to cast one or ask my friend to mill one for me.
Regards, Joerg
Mike Monett
[...]
> I believe the same is true of at least most grades of polyethylene, also
> polypropylene and PTFE ("Teflon", etc).
>
> - Don Klipstein (d...@misty.com)
I don't know about the rest, but I found ordinary hot glue seems to work well
on polyethylene. I cut strips from a distilled water container and glue them
to the bottom of my mouse. Then if the pad is cleaned, it is almost
friction-free. A strip across the front stops the rocking motion when you
press the left button, so the cursor stays in place.
The new pads are moderately difficult to remove.
Mike Monett
Joerg
> Try http://www.smallparts.com/ They have an impressive assortment of
> Delron gears.
Thanks! They also have a nice selection of brass spurs which may be just
the ticket.
Regards, Joerg
Clifford Heath
> Actually I have "cut" a larger and slower running gear using a scroll
> saw. If the saw still has decent bearings it can be done. Just not with
> such small gears.
Find an old-time watchmaker. I visited my uncle's shop one time
and he was putting the finishing touches on a 7-tooth watch gear
after 2 1/2 hours under the loupe shaping it by hand with tiny
files. It was under 1.5mm in diameter...! This sort of effort is
justified for a $25,000 antique of course :-). It had to be pretty
much perfect as it was the final gear against which the oscillating
escapement wheel acts. Just goes to show what is possible given
sufficient determination and dedication.
John de Stigter
"Joerg" <notthis...@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:VQ4ne.874$wy1...@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...
> Hello Luhan,
>
> > Your only hope may be superglue. Even better if you first clean it
> > using something they called 'cyanoprep'.
>
> That's what I was afraid it would be. I have seen superglue "eat"
> portions of a similar part before.
>
> Regards, Joerg
>
> http://www.analogconsultants.com
I have just done a similar repair. The gear was a press fit onto a motor
which operated a cd tray.
Pushed the gear onto a screwdriver - around 2mm diameter - to open the split
a little.
Squeezed in some superglue and removed screwdriver.
When set pushed back onto motor shaft.
So far it works fine - but this only needs to stand up to intermittent use.
Regards,
John.
Mac
I think hot glue is actually molten polyethylene, so this is not
surprising. From what I gather, heat fusion is the most reliable way to
get polyethylene to stick to itself. There is also a relatively new
adhesive put out by 3M, called Scotch-Weld 8005. It apparently sticks well
to polyethylene (but not nylon :-( ). It is a two part acrylic which
pretty much requires special ($45) pumps for dispensing. McMaster Carr
caries it for those who might be interested.
I found all this while researching a way to join two polyethylene sheets.
I don't have first-hand experience with the adhesive.
I'm going to try just using a hot iron. Luckily, polyethylene is cheap.
;-)
--Mac
Mac
About 10-15 years ago I worked for Environmental Health and Safety at my
University. I was responsible for collecting hazardous waste from all the
campus labs, and the campus health center. The strong acids (except
hydrofluoric, of course) were in glass bottles, but the glass is actually
much more robust than it looks. You can hit it with a sledge hammer and
even though the glass shatters, not a drop of acid will leak out, as long
as the neck and top remain intact. I think the bottles are made from
sequential layers of glass and some elastomer or something, like
bullet-proof glass.
I'm pretty sure that strong acids still come in glass bottles. What else
would they use? They certainly can't use polyethylene, and Teflon is even
more expensive than glass, I think.
--Mac
Rich Grise
Be sure and put aluminum foil on top of the poly, so it doesn't stick
to the iron! (probably also underneath, so it doesn't stick to the
bench/floor).
Cheers!
Rich
Jorgen Lund-Nielsen
> Hello Jim,
>
>> Have you considered casting your own gear?
>
>
> That's a good idea. This whole thing came up when our former neighbors
> visited last week. The husband said he could probably make a new gear
> from brass. I just wanted to see whether there is an easier solution and
> I could spare him the trouble. Plus they live across the ocean.
>
>> I don't think you can glue nylon.
>
>
> My gut feeling told me that, too. But engineering minds don't give up
> until they know for sure...
>
> Regards, Joerg
>
> http://www.analogconsultants.com
http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Formteile.htm
Jorgen
Joerg
> http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Formteile.htm
Thanks! Now that is a very practical cook book style approach, including
hints on where to get all the stuff. The vacuum pump is going to be some
hassle for a one-time job. However, he mentioned that you can get those
at some "adults only" shops. I would have never figured that out. Still,
I won't set foot into one of those establishments.
Regards, Joerg
mrob...@worldnet.att.net
>The vacuum pump is going to be some hassle for a one-time job.
It doesn't look like a very hard vacuum is required; a hand vacuum pump
might work. You can get these for around $20 to $30 at the car parts
store or Sears. Some car parts places have a tool rental program and
you might be able to get one that way - typically you put down a deposit
equal to the price of the tool, and you get your money back when you
bring the tool back.
Matt Roberds
Spehro Pefhany
mrob...@worldnet.att.net wrote:
>Joerg <notthis...@removethispacbell.net> wrote:
>>The vacuum pump is going to be some hassle for a one-time job.
>
>It doesn't look like a very hard vacuum is required; a hand vacuum pump
>might work. You can get these for around $20 to $30 at the car parts
>store or Sears.
Or Harbor Fright.
> Some car parts places have a tool rental program and
>you might be able to get one that way - typically you put down a deposit
>equal to the price of the tool, and you get your money back when you
>bring the tool back.
>
>Matt Roberds
Some people probably use the item and return it. But that would be
wrong.
Joerg
>>It doesn't look like a very hard vacuum is required; a hand vacuum pump
>>might work. You can get these for around $20 to $30 at the car parts
>>store or Sears.
>
> Or Harbor Fright.
A while ago they had one for under $10.
> Some people probably use the item and return it. But that would be
> wrong.
Some people do that with clothes. That would be even more wrong. But the
shops around here started cracking down on that now.
Regards, Joerg
Zak
> Wonder why that is nylon while the others are brass ...
>
> Any ideas which adhesive would work here?
If it is really nylon - nylon 6-6 that is - I heard it can be glued with
a resorcinol glue, which is an old fashioned two pot wood glue, very
dark purple/brown in color. The color explains why it is not used that much.
But if it is not nylon but delrin (poly-acetal) that won't work I suppose.
I'd bet on cyanoacrylate. Use very little; then it won't dissolve much.
However count on it breaking again.
Thomas
Jim Thompson
[snip]
>
>I'd bet on cyanoacrylate. Use very little; then it won't dissolve much.
>
[snip]
Wet both surfaces, then press firmly together. The "wicking" approach
tends to produce "break-again" joints.
...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
Joerg
> If it is really nylon - nylon 6-6 that is - I heard it can be glued with
> a resorcinol glue, which is an old fashioned two pot wood glue, very
> dark purple/brown in color. The color explains why it is not used that
> much.
Thanks for the hint. I didn't know that adhesive.
> But if it is not nylon but delrin (poly-acetal) that won't work I suppose.
>
> I'd bet on cyanoacrylate. Use very little; then it won't dissolve much.
It looks like nylon. Could be wrong but Delrin feels differently.
Regards, Joerg
Joerg
> Wet both surfaces, then press firmly together. The "wicking" approach
> tends to produce "break-again" joints.
I wish I could but this gear is so small that trying to bend open the
crack might ruin it.
Regards, Joerg
Si Ballenger
<notthis...@removethispacbell.net> wrote:
>Hello Jorgen,
>
>> http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Formteile.htm
>
>Thanks! Now that is a very practical cook book style approach, including
>hints on where to get all the stuff. The vacuum pump is going to be some
>hassle for a one-time job. However, he mentioned that you can get those
>at some "adults only" shops. I would have never figured that out. Still,
>I won't set foot into one of those establishments.
For a vacuum you might be able to connect to the manifold of a
running car engine, or boil some water in a pressure cooker until
all the air is displaced with steam, then connect to it and let
it cool. A good news group for this type of question is the below
news group.
rec.crafts.metalworking
Guy Macon
Si Ballenger wrote:
>
>Joerg wrote:
>
>>> http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Formteile.htm
>>
>>Thanks! Now that is a very practical cook book style approach, including
>>hints on where to get all the stuff. The vacuum pump is going to be some
>>hassle for a one-time job. However, he mentioned that you can get those
>>at some "adults only" shops. I would have never figured that out. Still,
>>I won't set foot into one of those establishments.
>
>For a vacuum you might be able to connect to the manifold of a
>running car engine, or boil some water in a pressure cooker until
>all the air is displaced with steam, then connect to it and let
>it cool. A good news group for this type of question is the below
>news group.
>
>rec.crafts.metalworking
You can get a good vacuum pump online here:
[ http://www.mityvac.com/ ]
[ http://www.mityvac.com/kits.html ]
[ http://www.mityvac.com/kits.html#silverlinevacuumpump ]
[ http://www.mityvac.com/kits.html#07000 ]
[ http://www.mityvac.com/contact.html ]
[ http://mityvacparts.com/ ]
Zak
> You can get a good vacuum pump online here:
And if you want one nearly free, get a compressor from any refrigerator.
These go down to 10 - 20 mmm Hg in my experience - but this was in the
freon era.
Be sure to lead the oily exhaust fumes somewhere they won't do any harm.
Thomas
colin
"Robert Latest" <bobl...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:slrnd9r2ro.1...@localhost.localdomain...
> On 2005-05-31, Joerg <notthis...@removethispacbell.net> wrote:
>
> > That's a great method and I would have done it. But this gear is only
> > 5mm in diameter and 3mm long.
>
> Why don't you look if it is a standard size/module and just buy a
> replacement?
>
> BTW, nylon gears are often used to reduce noise.
>
> robert
>
ive tried to repair broken teeth on nylon gears before too, i tried several
ways the only one wich worked for any length of time was to cut a slot down
where the tooth was and glue in a pice of fibreglass from a pcb, then file
it to tooth shape.
ive found you can get spare parts for some cordless screwdrivers wich were
surpisingly cheap.
Colin =^.^=
Clifford Heath
> get polyethylene to stick to itself. There is also a relatively new
> adhesive put out by 3M, called Scotch-Weld 8005. It apparently sticks well
> to polyethylene (but not nylon :-( ). It is a two part acrylic which
> pretty much requires special ($45) pumps for dispensing. McMaster Carr
> caries it for those who might be interested.
In the water-rockets community, we have been using construction-grade
PL Premium (a polyurethane adhesive) to join PETE bottles when making
pressure vessels. It's hard stuff to stick to, but with PLP, ordinary
2L bottles can be joined and withstand 120PSI. We've found nothing else
that works as well, except some epoxies which are more expensive.
Jorgen Lund-Nielsen
Another Idea for a vacuum pump* is to use a aquarium (fish tank?)
air pump, those i knew are a diaphragm pump type, which also
creates a vacuum at their air inlet terminal.
Jorgen
* available in stores that usually *EVERYONE* could frequent
without to be embarrassed ;-)
Aubrey McIntosh, Ph.D.
Joerg wrote:
There were some listings for "hydro-aspirator" on eBay that may work.
Also, I remember having an aspirator for a water bed that had standard
garden hose connections all around.
The Fischer catalog lists a new Nalgene Polypropylene aspirator vacuum
pump for $9.60. https://www1.fishersci.com/Coupon?cid=1341&gid=2371008
When finished just liquidate it on eBay.
All of these devices should produce a pressure that is approximately the
vapor pressure of water at whatever the supply temperature is.