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Old Planes?

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Joe Flyer

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Jan 2, 2001, 12:47:22 PM1/2/01
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I have the opportunity to purchase several old planes from a friend. I
thought they might make neat decorations, but, for decoration purposes, he
wants quite a bit of money for them. If they have any resale value, I might
be willing to "invest", but if they are pretty much just old stuff that
looks neat, I don't want to spend as much. Can you tell me what the
following might be worth, and any information on age, etc.?

2- Bailey "Made in USA" Planes, servicable, could be cleaned up and used
2- Bailey "Made in USA" planes, these have a WOOD base (not metal, blade
extends through wooden block), decent shape, wood block would need replaced
to use.
1- Corsair "Made in USA" plane, good shape, could be used as is, with a
little cleaning.

I can get the five of them for $150.00

Thanks for your help!
--jf

Mike Howland

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Jan 2, 2001, 1:07:32 PM1/2/01
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Joe..
A lot would depend on the exact plane's your buying and their condition. For
example, if the two 'all metal' planes are #1's, then your getting a great
deal. If not, hard to tell. Be aware that many of the planes have various
'types' with the older types being (for the most part) more sought after. See:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm for a good source of plane
background information.
Mike

Dr. Rev. Chuck, M.D., P.A.

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Jan 2, 2001, 5:51:33 PM1/2/01
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Didn't Stanley re-register their patent dates every five years on their early
cast iron? Simply add 5 years to the most recent date stamped ahead of the
tote...

Dr. Rev. Chuck, M.D., P.A.

unread,
Jan 2, 2001, 6:00:32 PM1/2/01
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If the cast iron is intact, if there are no severe chips, if the mouth
is clean ahead of the cutter, $150 would be cheap. Don't go overboard
with cleaning if you intend to resell. 100 years of rust will inflict
less damage to cast iron than 1 hour of Naval Jelly.

Derek

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Jan 2, 2001, 4:48:26 PM1/2/01
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"Dr. Rev. Chuck, M.D., P.A." <cdub@_REMOVETHIS_erols.com> wrote in message
news:3A525B75.5CDC@_REMOVETHIS_erols.com...

> Didn't Stanley re-register their patent dates every five years on their
early
> cast iron? Simply add 5 years to the most recent date stamped ahead of
the
> tote...


FWIW, my type 11 Stanley #5 has three patent dates on the bed behind the
frog...."Mar-25-02, Aug-18-02, Apr-19-10". I've never heard of Stanley
re-registering patents on a 5 year plan, and AFAIK Stanley put on a new
patent date when they made a design change for the planes. Perhaps someone
with a Walters book near at hand can clarify this.

Now I'm far from being a patent expert, but currently patents are good for
20 years, and I seem to recall that back then they were good for 17
years(?). And simply adding 5 years to a patent date found on the plane
won't do you much good. To date a Stanley bench plane, just check the chart
on this site:
http://members.aol.com/hammer9/galoot2/ascii_dating_chart.html

Be warned though, planes can often be cross breeds over 1 or more types.
Stanley wasn't in the habit of throwing out things like plane irons or
adjustment knobs just because they went from say, a type 10 to a type 11.
IOW, dating these planes i a modern phenomena and not something that Stanley
made a concious effort to follow.

Derek


David F. Eisan

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Jan 2, 2001, 5:09:05 PM1/2/01
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Dear Joe,

I am not meaning to be an ass here, but imagine you asked in an
automotive NG this question,

I have four used Chevy cars. Any idea how much they are worth?

We need WAY more information than you are giving. They could be
worthless, or worth thousands.

As a starting point you should check to see if the front screw hole in
the lever cap is keyhole shaped or kidney shaped. A keyhole shaped lever
cap screw hole indicates Stanley plane made earlier than 1933, and types
15 and earlier are much more desirable (IMO).

Here is a page that will help you date your planes and decide what type
(date) they are,

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/9147/flowchart.html

Here is a page that will tell you all you ever wanted to know about what
number (i.e. #4 smoother, #7 jointer, etc.) plane each is.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm

Once you know what you have, come back and ask again and I am sure you
will get much more reliable estimates.

I hope this helps,

Thanks,

David.

May you live in Interesting Times - Ancient Chinese Curse.

Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.

rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
Archives http://x29.deja.com/home_ps.shtml
crowbar FAQ http://www.concentric.net/~Odeen/oldtools/crowbar.shtml


Peter

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Jan 2, 2001, 6:44:05 PM1/2/01
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>>
Be warned though, planes can often be cross breeds over 1 or more types.
Stanley wasn't in the habit of throwing out things like plane irons or
adjustment knobs just because they went from say, a type 10 to a type 11. IOW,
dating these planes i a modern phenomena and not something that Stanley made a
concious effort to follow.
>>

This happens more on the less popular mumbers, #4-1/2, #5-1/4, #5-1/2 and #6
than on the other, more popular numbers.

And the #1 and #2 don't follow the type study much at all.

The transitions from "low frog receiver" to "high frog receiver" and from
"keyhole lever cap" to "kidney lever cap" pretty much defines the demarcation
lines of major parts interchangeability.

Some minor parts are compatible across all types, within a number.

Joe Flyer

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Jan 2, 2001, 6:56:54 PM1/2/01
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Thank you for all of the replies...I realize that I did not provide much
info. I *HAVE* learned, though, that the "Bailey" planes must be Stanley
planes. Nobody commented on the planes that have the "wood block" bottoms.
Are these older/more desireable than others?

I will let you all know if I pick them up (they are at my disposal, I just
don't want to seem like a vulture, taking notes, looking up prices before
purchase) and go from there....
--jf

Joe Flyer <thefli...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Kuo46.111063$yR4.3...@news1.rdc1.tx.home.com...

ChromeDome

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Jan 2, 2001, 7:37:23 PM1/2/01
to
Peter wrote:
>
> >>
> Be warned though, planes can often be cross breeds over 1 or more types.
> Stanley wasn't in the habit of throwing out things like plane irons or
> adjustment knobs just because they went from say, a type 10 to a type 11. IOW,
> dating these planes i a modern phenomena and not something that Stanley made a
> concious effort to follow.
> >>
>
> This happens more on the less popular mumbers, #4-1/2, #5-1/4, #5-1/2 and #6
> than on the other, more popular numbers.
>

Yep. I just got a #8 jointer which, because it has no number on the
bed, comes up as a type 2 (1869-1872) on the dating table. But it has a
lateral adjustment lever (early type) which means it must be a type 5
(1885-1888).

Stanley just didn't have any consideration for collectors :-).

Gene

--
Homo Sapiens is a goal, not a description.

Peter

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Jan 2, 2001, 8:33:06 PM1/2/01
to

>>
Nobody commented on the planes that have the "wood block" bottoms. Are these
older/more desireable than others?
>>

These "transitionals" are usually referred to as "firewood" in the longer
models (jacks and jointers). Seldom does one come across a straight one.

In the shorter models these are useful if the mouth is tight.

Look especially for the ones marked "BAILEY" on the front of the casting as
these have the more modern frog and the more modern frog attachment.

You are quite correct ... the proper term for the wooden piece is "block".


Mark

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Jan 3, 2001, 9:30:55 AM1/3/01
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Or, perhaps more to the point, "no, transitional planes are not normally
very valuable".

In terms of age, they are not necessary older than the all-metal planes
- Stanley produced these transitional planes as a way of enticing
craftsman who favoured wooden planes. IIRC, transitionals died out
fairly quickly as the all metal planes rose to dominate the market, so
perhaps someone here can quote the production interval.

-Mark

Peter

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Jan 3, 2001, 11:43:18 AM1/3/01
to

>>
In terms of age, they are not necessary older than the all metal planes -

Stanley produced these transitional planes as a way of enticing craftsman who
favoured wooden planes. IIRC, transitionals died out fairly quickly as the all
metal planes rose to dominate the market, so perhaps someone here can quote the
production interval.
>>

The "transitionals" didn't die out all that quickly, and nine out of the
eighteen models (50 percent) lasted well into the last major revision of the
Stanley/Bailey line (that being the Type 16 of 1933).

The #21 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #22 was produced from 1869 to 1943,
the #23 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #24 was produced from 1869 to 1943,
the #25 was produced from 1869 to 1923,
the #26 was produced from 1869 to 1942,
the #27 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #27-1/2 was produced from 1898 to 1935,
the #28 was produced from 1869 to 1943,
the #29 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #30 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #31 was produced from 1869 to 1943,
the #32 was produced from 1869 to 1935,
the #33 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #34 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #35 was produced from 1869 to 1942,
the #36 was produced from 1869 to 1935, and
the #37 was produced from 1869 to 1923.

The #22 and #24 (toteless) smoothing planes are nice, as are the #35 and #36
(toted) smoothing planes. These are readily obtainable.

The #25 block plane and the #37 "Jenny" smooth plane are quite rare.


Brent Beach

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Jan 3, 2001, 1:08:28 PM1/3/01
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"ChromeDome" <n...@this.address> wrote in message
news:3A5275...@this.address...

> Yep. I just got a #8 jointer which, because it has no number on the
> bed, comes up as a type 2 (1869-1872) on the dating table. But it has a
> lateral adjustment lever (early type) which means it must be a type 5
> (1885-1888).

Are you sure it is not a type 4 bed with a type 5 frog? (Types 1 to 4 did not
have the number in the bed).

Type 5 was the first with a lateral lever. It makes sense that they would want
to get this feature out as soon as possible, without using up all the old beds
with the pre-lateral frog.

Brent

Brent Beach

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Jan 3, 2001, 1:11:32 PM1/3/01
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"Joe Flyer" <thefli...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Kuo46.111063$yR4.3...@news1.rdc1.tx.home.com...
> 2- Bailey "Made in USA" Planes, servicable, could be cleaned up and used

If they can be used right now, they may be worth something. If the sole has
"Made in USA" then they are newer planes. They could be very new, in which case
they may not be worth buying (at any price).

> 2- Bailey "Made in USA" planes, these have a WOOD base (not metal, blade
> extends through wooden block), decent shape, wood block would need replaced
> to use.

If the wooden sole needs replacing, then you are best advised not to bother with
them. Spend the money on a Knight smoother.

> 1- Corsair "Made in USA" plane, good shape, could be used as is, with a
> little cleaning.

There is some doubt whether or not Corsair planes can be used, no matter what
the condition.

Are you sure this is a friend? Friends do not sell friends beater transitionals
and Corsair planes.

Brent

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