2- Bailey "Made in USA" Planes, servicable, could be cleaned up and used
2- Bailey "Made in USA" planes, these have a WOOD base (not metal, blade
extends through wooden block), decent shape, wood block would need replaced
to use.
1- Corsair "Made in USA" plane, good shape, could be used as is, with a
little cleaning.
I can get the five of them for $150.00
Thanks for your help!
--jf
FWIW, my type 11 Stanley #5 has three patent dates on the bed behind the
frog...."Mar-25-02, Aug-18-02, Apr-19-10". I've never heard of Stanley
re-registering patents on a 5 year plan, and AFAIK Stanley put on a new
patent date when they made a design change for the planes. Perhaps someone
with a Walters book near at hand can clarify this.
Now I'm far from being a patent expert, but currently patents are good for
20 years, and I seem to recall that back then they were good for 17
years(?). And simply adding 5 years to a patent date found on the plane
won't do you much good. To date a Stanley bench plane, just check the chart
on this site:
http://members.aol.com/hammer9/galoot2/ascii_dating_chart.html
Be warned though, planes can often be cross breeds over 1 or more types.
Stanley wasn't in the habit of throwing out things like plane irons or
adjustment knobs just because they went from say, a type 10 to a type 11.
IOW, dating these planes i a modern phenomena and not something that Stanley
made a concious effort to follow.
Derek
I am not meaning to be an ass here, but imagine you asked in an
automotive NG this question,
I have four used Chevy cars. Any idea how much they are worth?
We need WAY more information than you are giving. They could be
worthless, or worth thousands.
As a starting point you should check to see if the front screw hole in
the lever cap is keyhole shaped or kidney shaped. A keyhole shaped lever
cap screw hole indicates Stanley plane made earlier than 1933, and types
15 and earlier are much more desirable (IMO).
Here is a page that will help you date your planes and decide what type
(date) they are,
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/9147/flowchart.html
Here is a page that will tell you all you ever wanted to know about what
number (i.e. #4 smoother, #7 jointer, etc.) plane each is.
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm
Once you know what you have, come back and ask again and I am sure you
will get much more reliable estimates.
I hope this helps,
Thanks,
David.
May you live in Interesting Times - Ancient Chinese Curse.
Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
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This happens more on the less popular mumbers, #4-1/2, #5-1/4, #5-1/2 and #6
than on the other, more popular numbers.
And the #1 and #2 don't follow the type study much at all.
The transitions from "low frog receiver" to "high frog receiver" and from
"keyhole lever cap" to "kidney lever cap" pretty much defines the demarcation
lines of major parts interchangeability.
Some minor parts are compatible across all types, within a number.
I will let you all know if I pick them up (they are at my disposal, I just
don't want to seem like a vulture, taking notes, looking up prices before
purchase) and go from there....
--jf
Joe Flyer <thefli...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Kuo46.111063$yR4.3...@news1.rdc1.tx.home.com...
Yep. I just got a #8 jointer which, because it has no number on the
bed, comes up as a type 2 (1869-1872) on the dating table. But it has a
lateral adjustment lever (early type) which means it must be a type 5
(1885-1888).
Stanley just didn't have any consideration for collectors :-).
Gene
--
Homo Sapiens is a goal, not a description.
These "transitionals" are usually referred to as "firewood" in the longer
models (jacks and jointers). Seldom does one come across a straight one.
In the shorter models these are useful if the mouth is tight.
Look especially for the ones marked "BAILEY" on the front of the casting as
these have the more modern frog and the more modern frog attachment.
You are quite correct ... the proper term for the wooden piece is "block".
In terms of age, they are not necessary older than the all-metal planes
- Stanley produced these transitional planes as a way of enticing
craftsman who favoured wooden planes. IIRC, transitionals died out
fairly quickly as the all metal planes rose to dominate the market, so
perhaps someone here can quote the production interval.
-Mark
The "transitionals" didn't die out all that quickly, and nine out of the
eighteen models (50 percent) lasted well into the last major revision of the
Stanley/Bailey line (that being the Type 16 of 1933).
The #21 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #22 was produced from 1869 to 1943,
the #23 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #24 was produced from 1869 to 1943,
the #25 was produced from 1869 to 1923,
the #26 was produced from 1869 to 1942,
the #27 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #27-1/2 was produced from 1898 to 1935,
the #28 was produced from 1869 to 1943,
the #29 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #30 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #31 was produced from 1869 to 1943,
the #32 was produced from 1869 to 1935,
the #33 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #34 was produced from 1869 to 1917,
the #35 was produced from 1869 to 1942,
the #36 was produced from 1869 to 1935, and
the #37 was produced from 1869 to 1923.
The #22 and #24 (toteless) smoothing planes are nice, as are the #35 and #36
(toted) smoothing planes. These are readily obtainable.
The #25 block plane and the #37 "Jenny" smooth plane are quite rare.
Are you sure it is not a type 4 bed with a type 5 frog? (Types 1 to 4 did not
have the number in the bed).
Type 5 was the first with a lateral lever. It makes sense that they would want
to get this feature out as soon as possible, without using up all the old beds
with the pre-lateral frog.
Brent
If they can be used right now, they may be worth something. If the sole has
"Made in USA" then they are newer planes. They could be very new, in which case
they may not be worth buying (at any price).
> 2- Bailey "Made in USA" planes, these have a WOOD base (not metal, blade
> extends through wooden block), decent shape, wood block would need replaced
> to use.
If the wooden sole needs replacing, then you are best advised not to bother with
them. Spend the money on a Knight smoother.
> 1- Corsair "Made in USA" plane, good shape, could be used as is, with a
> little cleaning.
There is some doubt whether or not Corsair planes can be used, no matter what
the condition.
Are you sure this is a friend? Friends do not sell friends beater transitionals
and Corsair planes.
Brent