Thanks for any info you might have for me!!
Gary
Yep, with just a combination square and a set of feeler gauges. Raise the
sawblade and set the square so its blade just misses a tooth when the body of
the square is tight against the miter slot. Mark the tooth with a pencil or
something. Measure the span from the blade to the tooth. Roll the sawblade over
'til the same tooth is at the other side of the table(fore or aft), slide the
square up or down and repeat the measuring process. Be patient! HTH. Tom
Work at your leisure!
After setting the blade parallel to the miter slot, check the fence, a
cheap way of doing this is to use a square and the feeler guages.
Holding the square againt the fence adjust the fence until the blade of
the square is a couple of thou from touching the front tooth of the saw
blade, measure the gap. Mark that tooth of the blade and rotate it to
the back, move the square and remeasure the gap. Depending on the make
of fence there should be some method to adjust the parallelism. Some
workers prefer to have the blade parallel to the blade, others prefer to
have the back of the blade to 'toe out' slightly, the normal figure is
between 1/32 and 1/64", i.e. between 15 and 30 thou. The thinking
behind having this offset is so that the wood won't get jammed between
the blade and the fence, personally I set mine dead parallel.
Hope this helps.
BernardR
"Gary Stephens" <step...@charter.net> wrote in message
news:b87yd.3003$CL7....@fe03.lga...
If you are burning a short cut on oak, then you have a problem.
I attach the dial indicator to the end of a narrow square-cut board and
clamp it in my miter gauge so the plunger is pre-loaded (partially
depressed) against the blade. I mark a tooth near the front of the table as
was previously described, set the plunger on that tooth and zero the dial
indicator. Then I hand rotate the blade so the marked tooth is at the back
of the table and check again with the dial indicator. There should not be
more than about +/- .004 inch of difference. If it measures more than +/-
four thousandths, the probability is (in this order) you have 1) a
misaligned blade, 2) a warped blade, or 3) a bad arbor bearing.
Consult your owner's manual for the procedure for truing the blade with the
miter slot. For a warped blade, if it is a good one (carbide tipped, laser
cut disk, etc.), send it back to the manufacturer for sharpening and truing.
If it is a cheap blade, discard it and get a better one. If the problem is
the arbor bearing it will require someone with tool repair experience. It
is not a do-it-yourself job unless you are mechanically inclined and have
some experience with precision machine assembly.
I also use my dial indicator to set my fence parallel to the miter gauge
slots. For this I use the board and dial indicator assembly clamped in my
miter gauge. With the dial indicator zeroed against the fence near the
front of the table, I exert some sideways pressure to assure there is no
"slop" in the reading and push the rig toward the back of the table while
observing the dial indicator reading. I have mine within .005 inch total
error, front to back.
"Gary Stephens" <step...@charter.net> wrote in message
news:b87yd.3003$CL7....@fe03.lga...
> I attach the dial indicator to the end of a narrow square-cut board and
I second this suggestion. It's more accurate, and it's faster too. Move
the thing, watch the needle, boom. One of the best little pieces of back
pocket gadgetry I ever picked up.
I mount mine to the miter gauge head with a piece of steel bar I cobbled up
for this purpose. I would also add to your suggestions that you can get
wild measurements from a sloppy bar-to-slot fit. Mine only had a tiny
amount of play in it, but it was enough to be extremely obvious at this
resolution of detail. I stuffed some paper in there to make the fit as
tight as humanly possible while still allowing it to slide. It helped keep
me from chasing the needle.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <dmmc...@users.sourceforge.net>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
If you find that it's still burning after everything is aligned
properly, it's not a bad idea to try raising your blade, especially in
thick or very hard stock. It sure seems like that gives the teeth a
much greater opportunity to cool off, and it eliminates pretty much
all burning for me, though your results may vary.
>Gary
>
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
Perhaps your blade is misaligned. Try measuring from the guide to the blade
as that's what matters.
John
"Chuck Hoffman" <chuck...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:nOlyd.1900$wZ2....@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...