TS Alignment questions

[type...@my-deja.com]

I have a new Jet contractors saw with a Forrest WWII 3/32" blade and an
Incra fence.

Using a TS-Aligner Jr I measured my blade at .003" out of alignment
front to rear. I have about .008" of front to rear relief in my fence.

I am wondering if it is worth it to try to eak out another .003" of
alignment in my blade. How hard would it be to do this on a Jet
contractor's saw?

Thanks!

Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.

[Leon]

You can get the alignment of the miter gauge dead on to the blade if you
have enough patience. Loosen the mounting bolts and then snug them back up
and tap the trunnion with a piece of wood and hammer to adjust. As you
tighten the mounting bolts one by one recheck the alignment.
There is an adapter made by In-Line Industries that simplifies this
adjustment with adjustment screws. It is a $19.95 delivered enhancement to
the saw. 800-553-6709 This setup requires no tapping with a hammer.
The out of alignment on the fence is a bit on the high side. This too
should be close to perfect AFTER you align the miter to the blade.
The effort is worth it providing the arbor run out is within reasonable
tolerances. There is no adjustment for the arbor run out. You should be
able to eliminate or almost eliminate any teeth marks on the wood with that
blade.

<type...@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8tpo2q$b6e$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...

[type...@my-deja.com]

This was partly intentional to avoid binding. How much "relief" would
you recommend?

In article <Fk_L5.472$0O2....@nnrp1.sbc.net>,
"Leon" <lcb1...@swbell.net> wrote:
> snip

> The out of alignment on the fence is a bit on the high side.

[Leon]

Binding? Any time that your wood, whether cross cutting or ripping, does
not slide perfectly parallel to the blade, you will be creating a binding
situation. You want to have every thing as dead on as possible.
That said, some of the blade companies at WW shows, "Oldham" recommends the
fence angle away from the back of the blade .005". The problem with this is
that the waste side then feeds into the back of the blade.

I am using a cabinet saw and have my blade set up to the miter slot to
within .0005" of parallel, "1/2 of .001". The fence is dead parallel to the
miter slot. I get shiny smooth cross cuts when cutting 2-1/2' square stock
and am getting shiny smooth rips in 1" thick oak stock.
Using a WWII 1/8" blade.

Any thing less than parallel will show up as burns or tooth marks on the cut
to size piece, and or the waste piece. Also with a 3/32" thick blade the
likelihood of making it flex when ripping will increase as the fence becomes
less parallel.

<type...@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8tq28t$kph$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...

[Bill Rittner]

I have to agree with Leon. When I set the fence with some "clearance" I find
that the wood wants to pull away from the fence on the backside of the
blade. This does not happen when it is set parallel to the blade.

Bill Rittner

Leon wrote in message ...

[PC]

The spring back is a problem. When a aligned mine a couple of years ago I
found a small assembly at Woodcraft that bolts under the head of the
trunion mounting bolts on each side. You snug up the trunion mounting
bolts and then by rotating the hex cap screws in the added brackets with an
allen wrench (these screws are parallel to the table top with their long
dimension in the direction of desired motion) you can position the trunion
quite accurately and easily. I had to use two sets of brackets, fore and
aft, since my blade to table alignment was so poor. Its been at least two
years and my saw is still performing very well. My blade to miter slot
alignment was off by about 0.060 when I started. I had to remove the
trunion and open the mounting holes slightly in order to align the saw.

I just looked in the Woodworker catalog but couldn't find these brackets.
I bought them at their store on Montvalle Ave, in Wouburn, Massachusetts.

Someone may be able to suggest a current source. If you strike out I
believe that I have the instructions and manufacturer's name at my other
home and could look when I'm there next.

Phil

type...@my-deja.com wrote:

> Thanks Leon and Bill for your helpful replies.
>
> Last night I attempted to align my blade with the miter slots, using my
> TS-Aligner Jr kit.
>
> First off, I noticed that my blade was out of alignment worse than I
> thought, more than .010".
>
> I loosened all four trunion bolts, but I am having a very difficult
> time moving the trunions and getting them to stay aligned because they
> immediately "spring" back. I seem to be able to loosen and pull/lift
> them into position, but I cannot get them to stay there. Tapping them
> with a hammer (against a block of wood) seems to make matters worse
> because of the tension working against me.
>
> I plan to try it again this afternoon. Let me know if you have any
> tips or tricks that might simplify this.
>
> Thanks!
>
> In article <8tpo2q$b6e$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>,

[type...@my-deja.com]

Thanks Leon and Bill for your helpful replies.

Last night I attempted to align my blade with the miter slots, using my
TS-Aligner Jr kit.

First off, I noticed that my blade was out of alignment worse than I
thought, more than .010".

I loosened all four trunion bolts, but I am having a very difficult
time moving the trunions and getting them to stay aligned because they
immediately "spring" back. I seem to be able to loosen and pull/lift
them into position, but I cannot get them to stay there. Tapping them
with a hammer (against a block of wood) seems to make matters worse
because of the tension working against me.

I plan to try it again this afternoon. Let me know if you have any
tips or tricks that might simplify this.

Thanks!

In article <8tpo2q$b6e$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>,
type...@my-deja.com wrote: