Follow up to bar top finish question...
john.s...@comcast.net
but never having used it I have another question for the group. I know
that the epoxy will run off the edge of the bar if I dont use some
kind of dam, but what I'm wondering is a) how difficult is the epoxy
to work with? and b) is it thin enough to find it's own level or does
it need to be brushed out at all?
Any pointers on working with it or tips to make it easier would be
greatly appreciated...
Fly-by-Night CC
john.s...@comcast.net wrote:
Visit the West System's web site - they have a lot of info on the
working characteristics and methods of application for epoxies.
<www.westsystem.com> They also make a 2-part mix just for this type of
finish.
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>
bridger
epoxy comes different thicknesses, from runny to putty.
a good varnish will probably work well also and be easier to work
with.
Eric Ryder
and allow the air bubbles to open.
<john.s...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:vbf9uug47418ai7eh...@4ax.com...
Lew Hodgett
>It seems the concensus for finishing the top of my oak bar is epoxy,
>but never having used it I have another question for the group. I know
>that the epoxy will run off the edge of the bar if I dont use some
>kind of dam, but what I'm wondering is a) how difficult is the epoxy
>to work with? and b) is it thin enough to find it's own level or does
>it need to be brushed out at all?
>
>Any pointers on working with it or tips to make it easier would be
>greatly appreciated...
If you truly want a bar top finish to die for, the following will give it to
you; however, it is time consuming and will cost you some money.
First, apply about 6-8 coats of low viscosity epoxy using a 2" chip brush.
(when the bristles come out, get rid of them.) Throw the brush away when you
are finished with a coat.
This should be done where the excess epoxy can fall on the ground and cause
no damage.
Allow the epoxy to cure at least 2 days, then sand lightly with 100 grit,
wipe clean and add another coat of epoxy.
After about 5-6 coats of epoxy, allow the epoxy to cure about 10 days, then
sand lightly with 100 grit.
Now the fun part.
Get a quart kit of 2 part, clear, linear polyurethane, some solvent, and a
couple of Preval spray units. This is strictly a marine item, you won't find
it at Home Depot.
Spray about 4-5 coats of clear LPU over the epoxy, allowing 2-3 days between
coats. Sand lightly between coats with 150 grit.
What you end up with is to die for; however, you have invested almost a
month and more than a couple of dollars.
What ever you do, have fun.
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures