I am no stranger to wood and have done a few major projects [built 2
houses and various sheds verandahs etc] but never done much in the way
of precision wood machining.
Can I cut a dado using the standard blade?
The instruction booklet advises against using the rip fence for
repetition cutting.
How would I do repetitition cuts without using rthe ip fence?
Any links to resources on the use of tables saws would be appreciated.
thanks
scul
I'm sure there will be quite a few people here who will say that the
benchtop saw isn't necessarily the best option. For the same amount of
money you might be able to get a "contractor saw". It will take up more
space, but will likely be more useful.
> Any links to resources on the use of tables saws would be appreciated.
Have you considered searching on google? Try the following link and it
will give you quite a few webpages with hints and tips.
http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&c2coff=1&q=how+to+use+table+saw&btnG=Search&meta=
Chris
Yes. Doing a lot of them is very tedious. A sharp chisel
or a shoulder plane (or a dado plane) is useful for cleaning
up a nibbled dado as a standard blade will tend to leave
lots of parrallel grooves.
>
> The instruction booklet advises against using the rip fence for
> repetition cutting.
>
> How would I do repetitition cuts without usingrthe ip fence?
You can use a halffence clamped to the fence that stops just
shy of the blade so that the half fence and the blade never
contact the workpece at the same time.
--
FF
The warning is not to use the fence as a stop when crosscutting. This
causes the cutoff to be trapped between the fence and blade.
The saw will then throw the cutoff in your face. Exciting but not fun!
Fred
Thats an excellent reason not to do it.
I bought the benchtop as I work in a 10'x10' and space is at a
premium. It has features found on any contractors saw which in my
price range were way to big and heavy and the ones that were ok
sizewise were so crap I wouldnt buy em. I bought on size, quality and
features, in that order.
Still got to get a router table 14" bandsaw in there.(:{o>
Off to the library in search of books. Google brought up a few snacks
but I am after a smogasbord.
scul
> Yes you can use the standard blade but the dado will be very narrow.
Actually you can cut 3/4" wide dados with the single narrow blade about as
easily as cutting a 4' wide dado with a standard stacked dado set. It takes
more time but it is certainly possible.
(when using the fence as a guide) don't pushforward with the hand on the
side of the blade that is farthest from the fence after the blade gets close
to cutting through. Lose rigidity and pinch.
don't this
don't that
don't the other
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"scully" <sc...@peerless.com> wrote in message
news:24hp02939mb4333sv...@4ax.com...
> Hi all just bought a porter cable 10" bench mount table saw and my
> knowledge of what is possible with one these is very limited. Woodie
> told me that a table saw is the heart of any shop so i went and got
> what I thought looked like a good unit but very pricey.
I would be lost without mine.
>
> I am no stranger to wood and have done a few major projects [built 2
> houses and various sheds verandahs etc] but never done much in the way
> of precision wood machining.
>
> Can I cut a dado using the standard blade?
The answer is yes, I have made and used various jigs prior to purchasing a
dado blade. With your standard blade you will make several passes at what
ever your trying to do.
>
> The instruction booklet advises against using the rip fence for
> repetition cutting.
>
What good is it if not to guide you?
> How would I do repetitition cuts without using rthe ip fence?
What I would do is build a cross cut jig and use it if your worried about
the fence.
>
> Any links to resources on the use of tables saws would be appreciated.
>
> thanks
> scul
Of coarse these are my opinions and are subject to many other peoples
thoughts but hey they work for me I have had nary a problem and still have
all my fingers..
Al
And see whats happens: http://www.connoraston.com/dotrec/
So I'll take this slowly never never ever wear any gloves when machining.
I was lucky not to loose a thumb.
I wish someone could have told me this when I first started.
Connor
--
%69%20%6c%6f%76%65%20%77%6f%6f%64%77%6f%72%6b%69%6e%67%20%62%75%74%20%69%6d%20%63%72%61%70
http://www.connoraston.com
> Actually you can cut 3/4" wide dados with the single narrow blade
> about as easily as cutting a 4' wide dado with a standard stacked
> dado set. It takes more time but it is certainly possible.
Heck of an arbor you got there.
p.s. I'd use a cross-cut sled for dados.....
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
You would be so-o-o-o-o-o-o much better off getting a cheap router and
a clamping straight edge for dados.
FoggyTown
The fence is good enough that so far all rips are "fine" to my eye.
Any TS owner has to build a crosscut sled, using strips of wood that ride
simultaneously in both mitre slots. I had to quickly modify my TS cast Al
top slots w/ a cut-off disk on my "dremel". Then I could do this, as well,
and not harm the use of any orig or aftermarket equipment. Now crosscuts
are freakin' amazing.
I had to build a mitre sled. Now mitre cuts are freakin' amazing. Like
cutting lines layed out on paper w/ a razor.
I'm sure there are issues w/ the angle of the blade, wobble, & o/ things I
do not even think of yet.
In order to get out of this in the first place, you'll need a saw sold to
the ground, w/ heavy steel std. construction, lots of weight, and quality.
Price ain't that bad too.
Right now, theres nothing I wouldn't take on. But I am new, and who knows?
I am building a 25" x 33" 1"x2" frame today for a fuse box panel box cover.
The top and bottom is off by 3/16", and side to side is off by 3/16", not
all one , but say a 20/80, 60/40 thing, a bad thing, but done w/ studs.
This makes a rediculous amount of calculations for a tight fit-and glue-up.
I let AutoCAD tell me the 'aligned' dimensions. In order to cut and glue up
one wonky 3/16" frame corner the bottom piece has to be cut at an angle of -
89.9304 degrees w/ the ends 21.9038", and 21.8951", not 21.9035" if
straight. - mitre sled, using the plywood panel as an angle template
Can you elaborate on this? I am about to purchase my first table saw at the
end of this month, and I would prefer not have any wood hitting me in the
face.
Thanks.
Thank you. That makes perfect sense.
Good Luck!
Bobby