It says in the manual that if the aerial selector switch is in the Norm
position the terminal long wire and 50 Ohm coax socket are *both active.
BUT, it also says the Whip socket, which is also the 50 Ohm coax socket, is
only active when the switch is in the Whip position.
What if you 2 antenna connected to the radio at the same time? One as a long
wire connected to the terminal and 2 small dipoles on the 50 Ohm socket. If
**both active when the switch is on Norm, how is the signal being
distributed to the radio?
I mean wouldn't this be a bad setup? 3 different antennas to the same radio?
I was switching the aerial selector to the Whip position when I wanted to
only use the dipoles. But then I wanted to use a long wire too cause certain
fequencies came in better with a lower noise floor with it and vice versa.
But it seems I can't switch to the long wire alone. The dipoles will always
chime in too.
If I switch to the Whip position,, I can use the dipoles alone but not the
other way around. So what do you suggest??
Also what I don't understand if switch is Attenuation position, it works on
both ant connections. But the Whip has a built in pre amplifier. So why
would you want to attenuate the pre amp?
It seems like a clumsy approach to me.
Thanks for any replies
Lucky
Not a bad idea. Thanks! I could easily use the switch with my other rigs
too. But do these switches reduce gain or sensitivity at all?? Any
drawbacks?
Lucky
The intent is not to connect 2 different antennas at the same time- it is to
give you the option of one or the other.
The attenuator and preamp are only connected to the coaxial socket. One
would use the preamp position with the short whip- rather than a preamp, it
is a Z converter; making the whip+ preamp into an active antenna.
The attenuator position is to prevent strong stations from overloading the
150's wide open front end.
73,
Dale W4OP
Hi Dale
Yes I knew about the small whip and pre amp for portable use. I guess both
antennas can't be hooked at the same time even though it would have been
nice to be able to switch from the long wire to the coax socket like on the
R75.
I tried to improvise by using the "Whip" preamp position to cut off the long
wire and just use the coax but it seems I was not doing that. I was just
switching in the preamp on the dipoles and the long wire stayed active too.
I was under the impression since the preamp only worked in the Whip
position, it cut off the long wire connection at the same time letting me
choose between the two.
Under that impression I wondered why it wasn't vice versa. Did you
understand what I mean??
I guess I need a separate switcher like RHF suggested.
Thanks
Lucky
Well right now I'm doing that but using 2 small dipoles hooked up to the 239
jack and a 4:1 current balun. Why a loop instead? Do loops function better
with a preamp? I do know they null out noise much better then long wires or
dipoles.
Thank you
Lucky
But, if you put the antenna switch to "Norm", you can use the 239 jack
without the preamp according to the manual. This is what I used to use when
I first got it. I rarely used the long wire spring antenna terminal. So
again why a loop with the preamp??
I wonder what antennas most people use on their 150's? The wire spring
terminal or the coax socket and why??
Lucky
Pete
"Lucky" <lu...@TheBotStopsHere.com> wrote in message
news:119bdls...@corp.supernews.com...
I have built my own loop but it's way to big and I have to downsize it. I
used like a 12Ft copper coil with a 1/2" to 5/8" ID
I then bought a 8 Ft by 1" length of PVC tubing and cut side holes the size
of the coil OD or a little bigger on top and midway. Then after getting the
coil as round as possible, I slid it thru the PVC holes I made. I used a
small wooden round peg inside the ends of the copper coil for separation.
I picked a large air variable capacitor off Ebay and hooked up the coax
using the shielded method from here and from other sites.
http://www.dxzone.com/cgi-bin/dir/jump2.cgi?ID=9868
This page had good info I used for building one but I made mine round not
square.
http://www.dxzone.com/cgi-bin/dir/jump2.cgi?ID=9868
And here is great resources for building your own loop:
http://www.dxzone.com/catalog/Antennas/Loop/
I'm going to trim this loop down and hook it up to the 150's socket and put
the switch on "Whip" for the pre amp to kick in. I also have a couple round
pieces of metal that you find in lamp shades to keep them round. They are
usually on the top and bottom part of the lamp shade.
They look and feel great for making a small desk side loop and you can
choose the size you want from a selection from thrift shops that sell old
lamps and shades. One shade can make 2 loops.
I might make a new one but using a smaller air cap and a good rotating stand
for it. I'd pick up a small electric remote control rotator and leave the
loop on the terrace and control it from the room. They are not expensive.
Thanks for good links RHF. They help give me more ideas so I can experiment.
Lucky
Sorry for the two same URL's being the same.
Here is the main page I used:
http://www.dxzone.com/cgi-bin/dir/jump2.cgi?ID=9376
Lucky
However, I have an open mind about this--as well as a Kiwa highpass
filter, standing by.
Steve
Hi there Steve
I'm also interested in that Kiwa highpass filter you mentioned. They do the
mod for you too. What have you added to the 150 as improvements?
Lucky
Steve
Steve,
This is what Kiwa offers for the 150:
http://www.kiwa.com/HF150.html
Where did you get your highpass filter and did you install it yourself or is
it external?
Lucky
Since MW DX-ing doesn't interest me very much, and since it's a pain to
be tuning a preselector all the time, it's nice to have a filter like
this that will heavily attenuate *everything* below 2500 khz.
I.C.E. sells a comparable highpass filter (model 402), and I believe
Par Electronics does as well.
Steve
You are correct in your assumption. The preselector isn't really necessary.
My statement was purely theoretical.......I think that the only way you
would see a difference would be if you would have a few signal generators
hooked through isolators and combiners, set up at high output levels and
tuned to different frequencies.
This would allow you to see the multi-tone response under very adverse
conditions. Under these conditions, a preselector would help.
Do you need to do this in the real world? Not really, unless you were using
this receiver on a ship where there were several high power transmitters
being used at the same time.
Pete
<sdan...@nyc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1117200661.6...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Pete
"Pete KE9OA" <p.gi...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:mEHle.840502$w62.5...@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Of course it's on topic cause they might be discussing the antennas they use
on the 150. I was wondering why there no discussion group geared toward the
Lowe 150 and it's family members!
Thanks
Lucky
Pete
"Lucky" <lu...@TheBotStopsHere.com> wrote in message
news:119h69l...@corp.supernews.com...
Yes
I'm fast!
Lucky
Pete
"Lucky" <lu...@TheBotStopsHere.com> wrote in message
news:119ilug...@corp.supernews.com...
Yes it is important and I didn't have it. I'll just have to start sending
you money from now on for any new info you post since I can only says thanks
so many times :)
Thanks!
Lucky
Pete