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Substitute for easel

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AussiePaul

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Oct 8, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/8/99
to
Hi there all. I am situated in Jakarta, Indonesia and supplies here are
sometimes difficult to locate. Currently I am trying to buy a 40 x 50 cm (16
x 20") enlarging easel. I have been quoted anything from the equivalent of
US$400 - $1100 with delivery 4 - 6 weeks. Obviously I will not be taking up
those offers in a hurry!
The problem is that I want to do some printing this weekend. Does anyone in
the group have any suggestions for a substitute. My initial thoughts were to
get two sheets of glass and paint or somehow place a border mask on one.
Then sandwich the paper in between before exposing with the enlarger. I am
however worried about refraction/reflection. Any experience with this type
of temporary setup? Any other suggestions? The other ideas I had presented
problems in either obtaining a clean edge on the borders or keeping 40 x 50
cm paper flat.
A final note. Thanks to all the regular contributors in the group. You have
no idea how much I enjoy reading this and a couple of other photo related
news groups every day. It's pretty isolated down here and the news groups
help preserve my sanity and keep me up to date. I just wish I had easy
access to all the developers/equipment you guys/gals have.

Cheers,

Paul Nitz

Jimfinkle1

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Oct 8, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/8/99
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>Subject: Substitute for easel
>From: "AussiePaul" !Spampa...@indosat.net.id
>Date: Fri, 08 October 1999 08:42 PM EDT
>Message-id: <03qL3.26$8L.455@news>

Try finding a 16X20 frame and using that to print with on a flat 16X20 panel or
mount board. It sounds crude but I can see it working.
Jim

Phil Harms

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Oct 8, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/8/99
to
I've used pre-made mats and they seem to work fairly well. My 4 blade easel only goes to
11x14. Bought a mat with an opening 16x20 --- actually a little smaller. Used duct tape on one
end and taped it to a piece of Masonite that is maybe 18x22. Made paper stops out of heavy
paper, probably about 120#. They're mounted to the board underneath the mat, so as to center
the 16x20 sheet. The mat gives a fairly straight edge but there is a little fuzziness. One of
these
days I'm going to dress the mat edges to give a sharp edge. Don't know if you have a Home Depot
type place in Jakarta but I find I can often find a solution by walking the HD aisles.

Phil Harms

RWatson767

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Oct 8, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/8/99
to
Mike
>Substitute for easel

Consider this. Make a vacumn easel. You need a box with one side of pegboard.
There needs to be an opening to connect to a vacumn source. A vacumn cleaner or
the blower from one. Make a fold down mask using piano hinges or the like.
Hope this helps
Bob AZ

L. J. Powell

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Oct 8, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/8/99
to
AussiePaul wrote:
>
> Hi there all. I am situated in Jakarta, Indonesia and supplies here are
> sometimes difficult to locate. Currently I am trying to buy a 40 x 50 cm (16
> x 20") enlarging easel. I have been quoted anything from the equivalent of
> US$400 - $1100 with delivery 4 - 6 weeks. Obviously I will not be taking up
> those offers in a hurry!
> The problem is that I want to do some printing this weekend. Does anyone in
> the group have any suggestions for a substitute. My initial thoughts were to
> get two sheets of glass and paint or somehow place a border mask on one.
> Then sandwich the paper in between before exposing with the enlarger. I am
> however worried about refraction/reflection. Any experience with this type
> of temporary setup? Any other suggestions? The other ideas I had presented
> problems in either obtaining a clean edge on the borders or keeping 40 x 50
> cm paper flat.
> A final note. Thanks to all the regular contributors in the group. You have
> no idea how much I enjoy reading this and a couple of other photo related
> news groups every day. It's pretty isolated down here and the news groups
> help preserve my sanity and keep me up to date. I just wish I had easy
> access to all the developers/equipment you guys/gals have.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Paul Nitz

Paul -

When I first got started in photography, I used a DIY borderless easle
made from a sheet of plywood with some plastic laminate on one side -
actually a cutout from a countertop to accommodate a sink. I put some
double-stick tape on it to hold the paper down. Then, I framed the
image so that it covered the entire sheet, thereby letting the natural
edge of the paper form the edge of the image. Naturally, I had to
either trim it down just a bit for mounting, or else use an overmat to
cover the edges.
--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Louie J. Powell, APSA
Glenville, NY USA

http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Maison/7881/

"Entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem"
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Doug Dreger

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Oct 8, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/8/99
to L. J. Powell
Have a friend who covered his baseboard with a piece of sheet metal (maybe
aluminum? maybe galvanized, like air-duct material?). He etched lines into the
surface, indicating common paper sizes and croppings. He would center the paper
on the metal, then hold down all 4 edges with long strips of magnet. I think he
bought the magnet strip in a roll . . . it was about 1/2" (13mm) thick, and was
very strong. Positioning all four strips for a clean border was probably a little
tedious, but it worked for him.

Joshua_Putnam

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Oct 9, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/9/99
to
In <37FE8750...@banet.net> "L. J. Powell" <ljp...@banet.net> writes:

>When I first got started in photography, I used a DIY borderless easle
>made from a sheet of plywood with some plastic laminate on one side -
>actually a cutout from a countertop to accommodate a sink. I put some
>double-stick tape on it to hold the paper down. Then, I framed the
>image so that it covered the entire sheet, thereby letting the natural
>edge of the paper form the edge of the image. Naturally, I had to
>either trim it down just a bit for mounting, or else use an overmat to
>cover the edges.

My 10x16 easel is similar, except I cut an overmat out of black,
black-core mat board that covers about 1/8" of each edge, enough
to help hold the paper flat and make a small border. The paper
is centered by small headless brads, and the mat board has small
holes that index onto the brads to keep it in the right place.
Works quite well for $5 materials cost, been using it for a few
years now.

--

Jo...@WolfeNet.com is Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
"My other bike is a car."
http://www.wolfenet.com/~josh/

Evert Spillier

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Oct 9, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/9/99
to
Hello Paul,

Stephen G.Anchell gives a formula in his 'Darkroom Cookbook', that he calls
'sticky easel' (formula #136). I'll give you the exact text below:

The following formula is useful for coating any size piece of plywood to use
as an easel for making large blowups, as well as holding prints flat and in
place for copying

cold water 16oz 500ml
gelatin 2 oz 60grams
corn syrup 2oz 60 grams
glycerin 2oz 60grams
chrome alum 16grains 1.1grams
water to make 32oz 1 liter

mix the syrup and the glycerin in water, and soak the gelatin in this
mixture for 10 minutes. Then warm it up to 210蚌/52蚓, and let is set for
15 to 30 minutes with occasional stirring
Dissolve the alum in 60ml of water, add this to the mixture, and bring the
total to 1 liter of water. Strain through cheesecloth. Each ounce of this
mixture will cover 100 sq inches (a 10 x 10 inch easel)

Build a simple easel, leaving at least an extra 1/2 or 1 inch more than the
maximum paper size to be used, by gluing strips of molding around the edge
an appropriately sized piece of plywood or masonite, and painting the base
black. Level the easel and coat the surface by pouring the mixture evenly
across it. Let the surface dry about an hour, and add another coat -
several thin layers work better than one thick one. Keep the unused
solution heated until the easel has been satisfactorily coated, as it cannot
be remelted. The easel should be ready for use about 6 hours after the last
coat.

Paper or film will adhere firmly to the surface with slight pressure and can
easily be removed without residue.

note 1: the stickiness of the surface will be preserved if it is covered
with a piece of wax paper, celluloid or plastic wrap. The easel can be
recoated as often as necessary.

note 2: do not eat the mixture

Have fun,

Evert Spillier
evert.s...@skynet.be
http://users.skynet.be/spillier


AussiePaul

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Oct 9, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/9/99
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I really like the piano hinges idea. I imagine once mounted correctly they
would give a really great straight edge. Thanks for the ideas.

Paul

RWatson767 <rwats...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:19991008191712...@ng-fa1.aol.com...

AussiePaul

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Oct 9, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/9/99
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Thanks a lot for the detailed feedback. I have been trying to get a copy of
that book for ages. It's not easy or cheap to buy books in Indonesia. I
would really appreciate the ISBN number of the book so I can order it (if
it's still in print), and pick up at christmas time when I am back in
Australia for holidays.
Thanks again for the help.

Paul

Evert Spillier <bs36...@skynet.be> wrote in message
news:7tn2qp$275$1...@news0.skynet.be...

Les McLean

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Oct 9, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/9/99
to
Paul,

ISBN number for The Darkroom Cookbook is 0-240-80196-2.

Re your easel problem I used the following method for years before
finally investing in a Photon Beard 4 blade easel.

Cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to the largest print size you want to
make. Make sure that it is square. Along the top and left hand side
fix thin pieces wood or metal so that they stick up above the top of
the 3/4" base board. This allows you to align the paper accurately
after you have framed the image on the base board. If you wishto have
white borders on the finished print you can pre-cut masks from
cardboard using a very sharp knife to ensure clean edges to the cut.
I used to tape the paper to the back of the card mask and place short
pieces of metal on top of the border of the mask to hold it flat and
prevent light leakage on to the imge area. The metal was painted with
matt black paint to prevent reflections. You could use some of the
suggestions made in this thread to hold down the paper, ie double
sided tape or what we in England call Blu-Tak which is a sticky
plasticene type material.

Have fun and enjoy the little darkened room
Les McLean

Evert Spillier

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Oct 9, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/9/99
to
I bought it from Amazon, it took them about 5 weeks to deliver it, but as
they said it would be somewhere between 2 and 12 weeks, they were on
schedule.

Here's the URL for the book:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0240801962/qid=939503690/sr=1-1/026
-4491065-5304205

have fun

Evert Spillier

AussiePaul wrote in message ...

Richard Knoppow

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Oct 9, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/9/99
to
"AussiePaul" <!Spampa...@indosat.net.id> wrote:

>Thanks a lot for the detailed feedback. I have been trying to get a copy of
>that book for ages. It's not easy or cheap to buy books in Indonesia. I
>would really appreciate the ISBN number of the book so I can order it (if
>it's still in print), and pick up at christmas time when I am back in
>Australia for holidays.
>Thanks again for the help.
>
>Paul
>

>Evert Spillier <bs36...@skynet.be> wrote in message
>news:7tn2qp$275$1...@news0.skynet.be...
>> Hello Paul,
>>
>> Stephen G.Anchell gives a formula in his 'Darkroom Cookbook', that he
>calls
>> 'sticky easel' (formula #136). I'll give you the exact text below:
>>

Unfortunately, this formula doesn't work very well. I've tried it a
couple of times using Knox Cooking Gelatin. It simply isn't sticky.
Probably leaving out the Chrome Alum would help but I haven't tried
it. The formula is very old, I've seen it in books from the mid 1930's
and think its older than that. Very likely meant for use with a very
different kind of gelatin than the stuff from the grocery store. It
was originally used for photomechanical set-ups.
Most art supply stores carry a spray on adhesive for temporary
mounting. Usualy called "repositionable" or something of the sort.
This stuff works well for temporary easels, especially for large
prints or for borderless printing of fiber paper. It can be used on
any smooth flat surface. I think this is the easiest and cheapest way
to get a temporary large easel.
RC paper will usually lie flat (unless the weather it very dry) and
needs only an edge guide, easily made of tape or a small "L" ruler
taped in place.

---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com

Paul Tauger

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Oct 11, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/11/99
to
When you finally get around to buying an easel, try ebay. I just picked up
a very nice, adjustable borderless 16 x 20 easel for $92 (including
shipping).


AussiePaul wrote in message <03qL3.26$8L.455@news>...


>Hi there all. I am situated in Jakarta, Indonesia and supplies here are

>sometimes difficult to locate. Currently I am trying to buy a 40 x 50 cm


(16
>x 20") enlarging easel. I have been quoted anything from the equivalent of
>US$400 - $1100 with delivery 4 - 6 weeks. Obviously I will not be taking up
>those offers in a hurry!
>The problem is that I want to do some printing this weekend. Does anyone in

David Hale

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Oct 11, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/11/99
to
Try using Sears sanding-disc cement. This material is a liquid that's designed
to dry to a sticky surface for holding sandpaper onto circular steel disks in a
table saw or sander. The sandpaper can be peeled off and a new piece attached as
needed.

You won't need to coat the entire suface of an easel...just a dot or two will
do.

Good luck!

DaveinFLL

Steve Smith

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Oct 12, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/12/99
to
I have used scrap kitchen counter tops, or sections of them. Mount a rail on
two sides for paper stops and some double sided tape, and you have a very
nice large borderless easel.


--
Steve Smith
ssmi...@flash.net
Paul Tauger <tauger...@SPAMusa.net> wrote in message
news:38024059$0$2...@nntp1.ba.best.com...

DaveHodge

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Oct 21, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/21/99
to
I have heard of people using a piece of 3/4 in. plywood, with strips of double
faced Scotch tape along the edge.

Cliff Gholson

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Oct 21, 1999, 3:00:00 AM10/21/99
to
In article <19991020210837...@ng-ff1.aol.com>, dave...@aol.com
(DaveHodge) writes:

Or taking an 8x10 photoglass from frame and duct tape and a heavy cardboard
backing. Also used as contact printer.

Cliff


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