Cheers,
Paul Nitz
Try finding a 16X20 frame and using that to print with on a flat 16X20 panel or
mount board. It sounds crude but I can see it working.
Jim
Phil Harms
Consider this. Make a vacumn easel. You need a box with one side of pegboard.
There needs to be an opening to connect to a vacumn source. A vacumn cleaner or
the blower from one. Make a fold down mask using piano hinges or the like.
Hope this helps
Bob AZ
Paul -
When I first got started in photography, I used a DIY borderless easle
made from a sheet of plywood with some plastic laminate on one side -
actually a cutout from a countertop to accommodate a sink. I put some
double-stick tape on it to hold the paper down. Then, I framed the
image so that it covered the entire sheet, thereby letting the natural
edge of the paper form the edge of the image. Naturally, I had to
either trim it down just a bit for mounting, or else use an overmat to
cover the edges.
--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Louie J. Powell, APSA
Glenville, NY USA
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Maison/7881/
"Entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem"
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>When I first got started in photography, I used a DIY borderless easle
>made from a sheet of plywood with some plastic laminate on one side -
>actually a cutout from a countertop to accommodate a sink. I put some
>double-stick tape on it to hold the paper down. Then, I framed the
>image so that it covered the entire sheet, thereby letting the natural
>edge of the paper form the edge of the image. Naturally, I had to
>either trim it down just a bit for mounting, or else use an overmat to
>cover the edges.
My 10x16 easel is similar, except I cut an overmat out of black,
black-core mat board that covers about 1/8" of each edge, enough
to help hold the paper flat and make a small border. The paper
is centered by small headless brads, and the mat board has small
holes that index onto the brads to keep it in the right place.
Works quite well for $5 materials cost, been using it for a few
years now.
--
Jo...@WolfeNet.com is Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
"My other bike is a car."
http://www.wolfenet.com/~josh/
Stephen G.Anchell gives a formula in his 'Darkroom Cookbook', that he calls
'sticky easel' (formula #136). I'll give you the exact text below:
The following formula is useful for coating any size piece of plywood to use
as an easel for making large blowups, as well as holding prints flat and in
place for copying
cold water 16oz 500ml
gelatin 2 oz 60grams
corn syrup 2oz 60 grams
glycerin 2oz 60grams
chrome alum 16grains 1.1grams
water to make 32oz 1 liter
mix the syrup and the glycerin in water, and soak the gelatin in this
mixture for 10 minutes. Then warm it up to 210蚌/52蚓, and let is set for
15 to 30 minutes with occasional stirring
Dissolve the alum in 60ml of water, add this to the mixture, and bring the
total to 1 liter of water. Strain through cheesecloth. Each ounce of this
mixture will cover 100 sq inches (a 10 x 10 inch easel)
Build a simple easel, leaving at least an extra 1/2 or 1 inch more than the
maximum paper size to be used, by gluing strips of molding around the edge
an appropriately sized piece of plywood or masonite, and painting the base
black. Level the easel and coat the surface by pouring the mixture evenly
across it. Let the surface dry about an hour, and add another coat -
several thin layers work better than one thick one. Keep the unused
solution heated until the easel has been satisfactorily coated, as it cannot
be remelted. The easel should be ready for use about 6 hours after the last
coat.
Paper or film will adhere firmly to the surface with slight pressure and can
easily be removed without residue.
note 1: the stickiness of the surface will be preserved if it is covered
with a piece of wax paper, celluloid or plastic wrap. The easel can be
recoated as often as necessary.
note 2: do not eat the mixture
Have fun,
Evert Spillier
evert.s...@skynet.be
http://users.skynet.be/spillier
Paul
RWatson767 <rwats...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:19991008191712...@ng-fa1.aol.com...
Paul
Evert Spillier <bs36...@skynet.be> wrote in message
news:7tn2qp$275$1...@news0.skynet.be...
ISBN number for The Darkroom Cookbook is 0-240-80196-2.
Re your easel problem I used the following method for years before
finally investing in a Photon Beard 4 blade easel.
Cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to the largest print size you want to
make. Make sure that it is square. Along the top and left hand side
fix thin pieces wood or metal so that they stick up above the top of
the 3/4" base board. This allows you to align the paper accurately
after you have framed the image on the base board. If you wishto have
white borders on the finished print you can pre-cut masks from
cardboard using a very sharp knife to ensure clean edges to the cut.
I used to tape the paper to the back of the card mask and place short
pieces of metal on top of the border of the mask to hold it flat and
prevent light leakage on to the imge area. The metal was painted with
matt black paint to prevent reflections. You could use some of the
suggestions made in this thread to hold down the paper, ie double
sided tape or what we in England call Blu-Tak which is a sticky
plasticene type material.
Have fun and enjoy the little darkened room
Les McLean
Here's the URL for the book:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0240801962/qid=939503690/sr=1-1/026
-4491065-5304205
have fun
Evert Spillier
AussiePaul wrote in message ...
>Thanks a lot for the detailed feedback. I have been trying to get a copy of
>that book for ages. It's not easy or cheap to buy books in Indonesia. I
>would really appreciate the ISBN number of the book so I can order it (if
>it's still in print), and pick up at christmas time when I am back in
>Australia for holidays.
>Thanks again for the help.
>
>Paul
>
>Evert Spillier <bs36...@skynet.be> wrote in message
>news:7tn2qp$275$1...@news0.skynet.be...
>> Hello Paul,
>>
>> Stephen G.Anchell gives a formula in his 'Darkroom Cookbook', that he
>calls
>> 'sticky easel' (formula #136). I'll give you the exact text below:
>>
Unfortunately, this formula doesn't work very well. I've tried it a
couple of times using Knox Cooking Gelatin. It simply isn't sticky.
Probably leaving out the Chrome Alum would help but I haven't tried
it. The formula is very old, I've seen it in books from the mid 1930's
and think its older than that. Very likely meant for use with a very
different kind of gelatin than the stuff from the grocery store. It
was originally used for photomechanical set-ups.
Most art supply stores carry a spray on adhesive for temporary
mounting. Usualy called "repositionable" or something of the sort.
This stuff works well for temporary easels, especially for large
prints or for borderless printing of fiber paper. It can be used on
any smooth flat surface. I think this is the easiest and cheapest way
to get a temporary large easel.
RC paper will usually lie flat (unless the weather it very dry) and
needs only an edge guide, easily made of tape or a small "L" ruler
taped in place.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com
AussiePaul wrote in message <03qL3.26$8L.455@news>...
>Hi there all. I am situated in Jakarta, Indonesia and supplies here are
>sometimes difficult to locate. Currently I am trying to buy a 40 x 50 cm
(16
>x 20") enlarging easel. I have been quoted anything from the equivalent of
>US$400 - $1100 with delivery 4 - 6 weeks. Obviously I will not be taking up
>those offers in a hurry!
>The problem is that I want to do some printing this weekend. Does anyone in
You won't need to coat the entire suface of an easel...just a dot or two will
do.
Good luck!
DaveinFLL
--
Steve Smith
ssmi...@flash.net
Paul Tauger <tauger...@SPAMusa.net> wrote in message
news:38024059$0$2...@nntp1.ba.best.com...
Or taking an 8x10 photoglass from frame and duct tape and a heavy cardboard
backing. Also used as contact printer.
Cliff