rec.martial-arts Newbies Guide to Self Defense Version 1.0
Rabid Weasel Lawson
Version 1.0
Kirk Lawson
------------------------------
Subject: 1 - Table of Contents
1 - Table of Contents
2 - Introduction
3 - Out And About
4 - In The Car
5 - At Home
6 - Identity Theft
7 - Women's Self Defense
8 - Martial Arts
9 - Physical Condition
10 - Deadly Force and the Force Continuum
11 - Guns And Other Weapons
12 - Involving Friends And Family
13 - Suggested Reading
14 - Disclaimer and Copyright Notice
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Subject: 2 - Introduction
Self Defense. What is it, why do you need it, and do you need to be a
Gunslinger or Bruce Lee in order to have it?
It seems that more and more people are interested in Self Defense
today. Though the likelihood of being a victim of Violent Crime is
comparatively small, there are some places that it is higher than
others. Combined with the seeming media frenzy associated with
Violent Crime and the complementary Public fascination with it, more
people than ever are considering what Self Defense is and how they
can get some of it.
Simply put, Self Defense is preventing someone from intentionally
harming you and hopefully this Guide will give you some insight and
tips for improving your ability at Self Defense.
Before we go on you should know that Self Defense is more than just
physical capabilities. Though that is an aspect, there are many other
non-physical aspects. The "mental" capabilities are arguably far more
important then being big and strong or able to "fight."
In this Guide we will, therefore, look at common situations and
locations where Self Defense is appropriate. We will try to put to a
template and a general mind set to it while answering basic questions.
The reader is encouraged to read with a discerning eye for what is
applicable to his particular situation. Attempting to read, digest
and implement every recommendation or option discussed herein would
quickly lead to the reader to conclude that this document should be
more appropriately titled _The Extreme Paranoid's Guide to the World_.
Therefore the gentle reader is encouraged to read the document and
apply which portions of it he may feel are appropriate to his
particular circumstances, rather than to blindly accept that he must
follow every last word. This guide is a series of recommendations and
suggestions and is provided so that the reader can have a base of
knowledge from which to draw and make informed decisions rather than
groping about for information and having none available.
------------------------------
Subject: 3 - Out And About
[While out with Friends]
Perhaps it's the exuberance of youth or just group dynamics, but going
"out" with your friends often puts you in a position where you need to
consider Self Defense. You're usually going somewhere to do something
and are distracted, absorbed in having a good time with good friends.
In this situation, you may miss subtle clues that can warn you of
impending danger. The advice is to keep a "Situational Awareness"
about you. You don't have to be paranoid, just observant. When you
enter a place, either outdoors or indoors, glance around. Note
potentially dangerous people, exits, places where someone with
nefarious intent might be hiding. When it's appropriate, look up too.
There are always balconies and the like in the most unusual places.
When walking on the street, continue to use your Situational
Awareness. Be aware of where you're at and where you're going. Don't
get distracted, or at the very least, don't *appear* distracted.
_Look_ like you know where you're going and what you're doing. Don't
look lost. A lot of this is communicated in your bearing and body
language. Keep your shoulders erect and eyes up. Glance around
casually as you walk. Again, you should keep note of places where
someone might hide or suddenly accost you as well as your fellow
pedestrians. Don't be afraid to cross the street if you feel that
something on one side is somehow threatening. Therein is a secret
that so many people miss. Pay attention to your "feelings." If
something about an area or place makes you feel "uncomfortable" then
heed the warning and change locations. Your subconscious may have
noted something that you didn't consciously perceive and is trying
like the dickens to warn you. How often have victims later said, "I
knew something felt wrong but I just ignored it because I didn't want
to seem rude or paranoid?"
Finally, a note about "Friends." Often companions are the source of
the danger. Some friends like to start fights, are overly aggressive,
or belligerent in some situations. They can initiate "trouble." As
the old saying goes, "With friends like that, who needs enemies?" You
may be best off not maintaining a friendship with such people. At the
very least you may wish to be discriminating about where and when you
go with these friends or control what venues you accompany these
friends to, such as restricting it to private, in home activities.
[The Local Bar]
A common "Out and About" event is to visit the local bar or pub.
Everyone wants to have a good time but keep in mind that studies have
shown that alcohol is a factor in the majority of violent encounters.
It affects people's judgment. Pay attention to those around you. You
can't always tell if the next guy is drunk but you are in a bar so
common sense tells you that he's had at least one or two. If it looks
like someone is going to get violent - leave. Also, pay attention to
your surroundings; where are the "bottlenecks", where is the furniture
located and are there nooks and crannies where a bad guy can hide?
Make sure you know where the exits are.
[While in the Restroom]
Restrooms are often not considered for "Self Defense" yet they are,
like anywhere else, a target of opportunity for both men and women.
The threat is usually that of theft. Never set down a handbag,
wallet, shopping bag, or other item, particularly on the washbasin
counter. These become tempting targets for thieves who can distract
you and make off with your valuables before you are aware of the
theft. Keep your valuables with you. Loop them over your shoulder or
take them with you into a stall.
Though theft is the most common threat in restrooms, there is, of
course, the threat of physical assault. Restrooms are attractive
places for physical attacks because they tend to be small areas, thus
limiting movement, are usually sectioned off from the general public,
making them more "private," and often have only one entrance, thus
limiting options for the victim to escape.
Be aware of who enters with you or behind you, particularly when there
are very few other occupants in the restroom. Take note of who is in
the Restroom before you. When possible don't turn your back to the
area.
To that end some advise men to avoid using urinals. Use, instead, the
stalls and latch the door. One individual related a story in which
the victim of a restroom assault had his feet yanked out from behind
him as he stood at the urinal. Gentlemen, be courteous and polite; do
not leave a mess on the seat of the stall. Others advise against
using the stall noting that you lose so much situational awareness by
locking yourself in a "little box" like that. It's very easy for an
attacker to ambush you as you leave the stall. Furthermore, an attacker
may come over the partition at you, and you may be at a disadvantage
inside such a small space. Instead they advise that you are safer at
the urinal. But be prepared to trade some social awkwardness in return
for safety. Keep your head up, don't stare blankly into the urinal
like most people do. Use the mirrors in the bathroom to augment your
area of vision. If there aren't mirrors over the urinal, then turn
your head 45 degrees to the side while you do your business. OK,
other people may think you're a "willy watcher," but that's just a
risk you'll have to take. Keep your top button done up so your pants
don't fall down if you have to move quickly. And, seriously, make up
your mind that you may have to spray urine everywhere if you're
threatened. It beats the alternative.
Of course, when possible, use the group. Visit restrooms with a
friend so that you can watch each other's back.
[Victim Selection]
Some discussion should be given to how criminal predators select their
victims. It is the general consensus of various "experts" that
professional criminals tend to prefer the "easy mark." They want
someone who will easily fall victim to their threats or con-game and
not resist. Naturally, it should be noted that this is different from
"random" violence or sudden "rage" violence.
[The Interview Process]
Some time should be spent here discussing what is sometimes called,
"The Interview Process." This is a "non-violent" precursor to an
attack in which the criminal will "size you up" to determine if you
are an acceptable target. The information he is looking for fits the
kind of crime he's hoping to commit.
If it's assault he wants to know if you're capable of resisting him,
if you're likely to, and how. Often it's nothing more than a simple
"Hey, buddy!" type of approach where the criminal walks towards you
to see how you respond. If you put your head down, look away, or
kind of curl up, you've just advertised yourself as a victim. It's
pretty simple, really... if you lack the confidence to look him in
the eye, you more than likely lack the confidence to put up a fight.
However, the approach can vary quite widely. Asking the time is a
common approach. The criminal will look for subtle clues of a
potential victim to, when asked for the time such as: Do they hurry
up glance at their watch and stammer out the time? If they don't know
the time, do they blurt out an apology that seems a bit more than
necessary? Do they put their heads down and quicken their pace?
All of these are signs of fear and intimidation. If they simply look
him in the eye and tell him the time, or calmly glance at their watch,
and so forth, it's a good bet they're not intimidated.
Confidence is a major boost in your personal safety. Confidence, at
the very least, makes your potential assailant wonder what you're so
confident about.
If it's a con man or non-violent thief, he wants to find out if you're
a good 'mark'; that is, if you're vulnerable to the con job,
susceptible to his coming patter. If you sound drunk, or intimidated,
or just really gullible, you're making yourself a mark.
One common lead is the "I've lost my bus fare" routine, usually found
near bar districts where folks from out of town are likely to be
found. It goes basically like this: Guy approaches you, says excuse
me but he's got a problem he's out of money and needs bus fare to get
back home - which is always a good distance away. Just a couple bucks
would really help him out, ya know?
For the most part, the best way to deal with a con-man interview is to
end it abruptly. Sorry, can't help you. Sorry, not interested.
Sorry, now please excuse me; maybe next time.
Most important of all, show confidence.
No matter what type of criminal doing the "Interview" they're going to
try to determine if you would make a good victim; if you are compliant
and easily intimidated. If they're doing the interview they already
assume you have something worth stealing - and you're unlikely to
convince them otherwise. For example, if you're walking in a bar
district (common place for con-man interviews) and you tell the guy
sorry you have no money, he knows that's untrue about 90% of the time.
If you didn't have money you wouldn't be walking around the bar
district like a tourist.
Unless the goal of the criminal is simple assault, violence and
intimidation for its own sake, he's not going to bother if you don't
have something he wants to take from you. These criminals are looking
for power, to intimidate you with a threat of violence until you
submit to him (this might be nothing more than your show of fear) or
you fight back - and he's already decided, correctly or not, that he
can beat you in a fight.
These guys can be tricky. Some you can just ignore and keep moving,
and let them revel in the fact that you walked away. Others really
WANT a fight and there isn't a lot you can do to persuade them
otherwise. Most of this type are drunks looking to prove how tough
they are. Best to stay on your toes, keep them in sight until you're
a good distance away. Be ready for a fight because if they've decided
they're going to fight, they're going to fight.
Part of "The Interview Process" you're not required to participate in.
He's visually sizing you up. Do you look vulnerable? Do you look
like you've got money? Do you appear to have any weapons about your
person? Are you part of a group? Looking the part for the area can
be an important method of defense, though not always possible. You
can sometimes use the interview yourself. The whole point of the
interview is to decide if you're a good candidate for whatever he's
got in mind. Let him know that you're not by showing confidence, a
willingness to not be a victim, an unwillingness to consider any
proposition he might have. Be careful though not to appear to be
"challenging" him, particularly in front of his friends.
Some general recommendations:
Looking at the ground is bad. It's especially bad during the
"Interview" phase, but it's bad all of the time. Walking around with
your head down is a sign of weakness, fear, and distraction. Blurting
out phases like "don't hurt me" is bad. To a predator it translates
as "I think you can hurt me, and I think the choice is yours as to
whether or not you hurt me."
Never, EVER, follow anyone.
It's not uncommon for muggers and rapists to try and lead their
victims into back alleys, isolated lots, and so forth. Often
they'll try to play on your sympathy - say that someone is hurt or
trapped. Sometimes they'll just say they need to show you something.
It is amazing but people actually do fall for this one, especially if
they're intoxicated.
As a rule, don't follow them anywhere. If they say someone is hurt,
offer to go get the police. If they tell you they want to show you
something, say that you're not interested - and leave. Be extremely
wary of anyone who asks you to follow them; if all they wanted to do
was rob you they usually don't need to go to those lengths.
This is an especially common tactic for people who target children.
On that same note, avoid dark areas like alleyways, isolated lots,
space behind old buildings, and so forth. Try to park your car in
well lighted areas, and in areas that are not out of sight.
[Walking On The Street]
Again, "be aware" is the watchword. Keep your wits about you. Notice
if you are being followed. Watch for people to specifically change
direction to intercept you. Be wary of criminals looking to
"Interview" you. As mentioned earlier, keep to well lit, populated,
areas. Avoid the stereotypical "Dark Alleys," isolated areas, and
places where there are lots of places for a criminal to hide but
few witnesses.
Don't be afraid to cross the street if something or someone on the
side you're walking on makes you nervous or uncomfortable.
[Don't Be a Jerk and Don't Look For a Fight]
The heading sums it up well. If you're looking for trouble, you'll
find it. Unfortunately, if you're not aware, you could be looking for
trouble and not even know it. Be polite and courteous. Remember,
"A soft answer turns away wrath." Be positive. Don't act arrogant.
If you bump into someone accidentally then apologize. Even though
you may be quite deadly or a dangerous person, don't act haughty or
try to throw your weight around. You may be a "big shot" at your job
or somewhere else, but ACTING like a big shot will make people want to
take you down a notch. Sometimes these are people you've never met
before. Spend a little energy to be aware of how your actions or
attitude will appear to those around you.
Further, it is well worth your time to learn some verbal de-
escalation and conflict management skills. Employ these skills as a
second line of defense. Your first line of defense is awareness and
not letting the situation get that far. Your second line of defense
should be learning to deescalate a situation. It's been said that
the best defense is a good offense but often times the best defense
is not to need a defense in the first place. However you should be
prepared for the possibility that managing the conflict and trying to
de-escalate will fail. Your skills, however great, may not be up to
the task with a given individual or the person may be purposely
looking for a fight. A person specifically looking for a fight is
simply unlikely to be easily dissuaded and continued attempts to de-
escalate will only be taken as a sign of weakness. Though de-
escalation should be a cultivated skill, part of that cultivation
should be learning when de-escalation just isn't working.
------------------------------
Subject: 4 - In The Car
We often spend a lot of time in our cars. For many they're an
indispensable tool. It should come as no surprise then to hear of the
sensationalizing of crimes, especially violent ones, involving
vehicles. Car Jackings, Road Rage, Stolen Vehicles, Break-ins, and
the like are all subject to media reports and justifiable concern.
[Dangers Approaching the Car]
One of the most vulnerable times for Self Defense involving the car
is transitioning from out of the car to in the car or vice-versa.
Often you are distracted, thinking about something else, or laden
with packages or deliveries. This is particularly true in the holiday
seasons.
In this position you may be vulnerable to assault, theft, or even
attempted kidnapping before you know it.
[What To Do]
As always, stay aware. Don't let yourself be distracted. Know what
is going on around you. Be prepared ahead of time to enter or exit
your vehicle. Have your keys at the ready so that you need not fumble
with them or be distracted searching for the right one as you stand
beside your car. If you are exiting your vehicle to enter your home
and you are parked outside, ready your house keys before you exit
your vehicle and, when you can, park in the garage instead.
Naturally, always keep your vehicle locked.
As you approach the vehicle evaluate the area to see if someone might
enter your space while you're focused on your car keys. Before you
get in your vehicle glance in the back seat. Glance at the tires to be
sure they're inflated.
Another option is to approach the car from the passenger side and
casually do a half circuit around the car. This lets you look under,
inside, and around you. It'd be very obvious if someone was following
you to your vehicle at that point and not just walking behind you by
happenstance.
Don't leave your packages unattended in the vehicle as you put up the
shopping cart. More importantly, don't leave your _children_
unattended in the vehicle as you put up the shopping cart. If you
must, be sure to lock and close the doors. This will prevent "grab"
thefts or abductions.
[Slash at Ankles]
One common fear, perpetuated by warning e-mails sent by well meaning
friends and concerned family on the Internet is a person hiding under
the vehicle and grabbing or slashing at the owner's ankles as he or
she enters the vehicle. This is, fortunately, what is known as an
"Urban Legend." There are no known instances of a criminal hiding
under a vehicle with the intention to attack the owner as he or she
approaches and enters the vehicle. However, that doesn't mean that
some dim bulb won't read the warnings and think "hey this is a good
idea, I think I'll try this!" If so, this criminal is in for a rude
surprise. The underside of a vehicle just doesn't make a very good
hiding spot from which to launch an attack. There's little room to
maneuver, quick movement is difficult, and the mark could easily
escape or draw unwanted attention while the criminal is negotiating
these inherent obstacles not to mention that if the vehicle has been
recently driven the exhaust system will likely be searing hot.
Nevertheless, if you wish to err on the side of caution, it is easy
to adapt the previously stated methods to include glancing under the
carriage as you approach your vehicle.
(references: http://www.snopes.com/horrors/robbery/slasher.htm
http://urbanlegends.about.com/library/blkiller.htm)
[Dangers in the Car]
A commonly disregarded element is dangers while in the car. This
actually covers quite a wide range that we will likely be unable to
completely address. However we can examine it briefly and you can
easily extrapolate from there.
First and foremost, make sure that your vehicle is in safe operating
condition. The drive system, the braking system, the electrical and
signaling system, all need to be in good working order. If you are
unsure take your vehicle to an ASE certified mechanic and have him
perform an inspection. This is so simple yet so easily overlooked.
If your car won't stop, it isn't safe for you or for anyone else.
Second, ensure that you and your passengers always wear your safety
belts. This is particularly true for children. They don't have the
experience to look out for themselves and depend upon you to look out
for them. Make sure that they wear their safety belts, even if they
don't want to. Make sure that the "Booster Seats" for toddlers and
infant seats for babies are properly installed and not subject to any
manufacturer recalls (you can check online if you're web active or you
can call the manufacturer's toll free number). If you are unsure that
the seat is properly installed, take the vehicle and seat to any
Police Station, State Highway Patrol Station, Fire Station, or
Emergency Rescue Station. These professionals will happily assist
you. Be sure to follow all recommendations for installation of child
safety seats, including not installing them in "front seats" that are
protected by air bags. The deployment of an air bag could cause
concussive injury to the child. One final note on child safety seats.
Don't buy them used or at a garage sale. You don't know what has
happened to the seat, if its already been in an accident, how it has
been cared for, or if it has some sort of stress or damage that would
make it unsafe for use. Go ahead and spend the money for a new one;
your child's life is worth it.
Another seldom considered aspect is loose objects in the vehicle seats
or floorboards. Heavy or hard items such as tools and toolboxes can
become deadly projectiles in the event of a rollover. Not too long
ago a child in a properly installed child safety seat was seriously
injured when she was struck on the head during a rollover by a toolbox
that had been stored in the floor-board. Store these types of items
in the trunk.
Always keep a second key so you can circle back to your car later and
take it home, particularly if you're thinking about using your
keychain to fight off your attackers and leave it stuck in a wound
when you make good your escape, screaming and blowing your whistle
to attract attention.
Keep a set of emergency tools and supplies available and know how to
use them. Consider keeping in your trunk a First Aid kit, fire
extinguisher, basic spare tools, flashlight and/or "glowsticks,"
disposable camera (for taking photos of an accident), a blanket in
case your vehicle breaks down in cold weather, a cell phone (even a
"canceled" cell phone can dial "911" in case of an emergency), non-
perishable food and candy, water, a transistor radio, lighters or
matches, and a folding shovel. You may also want to consider keeping
a "Bug Out Bag." This would include items such as a change of
clothing, cold weather gear, including a hat, gloves, scarf, coat,
etc., old boots and the like. Consider keeping a "seat-belt cutter"
and a "windshield breaker" fixed to the roof or the floor board where
you can easily get to it. Keep a map of your local area and any place
you're planning on going. Though specially designed tools exist for
each you can often substitute other tools. Additionally, know how to
change a tire on your vehicle in case of a flat, as well as being
familiar with your vehicle's fusebox.
Though obvious, be careful of distracted driving. Only you can say
for sure what is distracted driving for you but you must be honest
with yourself. For some people, speaking on a Cell Phone is quite
distracting and they become dangerous drivers. Many states have
passed legislation mandating "hands free" sets for Cell Phone use in
the car. Check to see what your local laws are. Further, be
conscious of other distractions such as eating, putting on makeup,
listening to music, having a conversation with passengers, or trying
to deal with rowdy children. If you find anything becoming a
distraction, stop the activity immediately or pull over to the side of
the road.
Additionally, be sure to obey all traffic laws and pay attention to
traffic signs. I know it's hard to not speed but sometimes those speed
limits are there for more than just to inconvenience you. Even if you
and your vehicle are perfectly capable of safely exceeding the speed
limit, be aware that many others on the road are not and you could be
creating an unsafe environment for them. Also you may be being an
unwitting example for less experienced drivers who simply lack the
years of skills building you have developed to enable them to drive as
safely as you can. There is a reason that insurance companies charge
significantly more to insure inexperienced drivers.
Finally, reign in your aggression. Aggressive driving seldom
accomplishes anything but to irritate the other drivers you share the
road with. Study after study concludes that aggressive driving does
not make any significant difference in helping you reach your
destination any faster. However it does significantly increase the
chances of involving you in an accident. Drive "defensively." This
_is_ a "Self _DEFENSE_" guide. Apply defensive tactics to your
driving. If you find this difficult, remember that you are not only
responsible for yourself but also for your passengers. Think about
your children in the backseat before you "get even" with that jerk who
just cut you off. And if you're alone in your vehicle, think about
that mother and her young children two cars back that you just passed.
Why should she risk losing her children because you got angry while
driving?
Melodramatic, I know, but true nonetheless.
[Carjackings]
A Carjacking takes its name from "Highjacking," or the practice of
forcibly taking a mode of transportation. Carjackers are usually just
interested in taking your car. It's car theft but with the added
condition that you are in or about your car at the time of the theft.
This makes it easier for the Carjacker in that he doesn't have to
break into the vehicle or circumvent your vehicles security systems
such as the ignition switch or car alarm. All he has to do is take
the keys from you. If you already have the vehicle started, so much
the better for him. Another danger of Carjacking is that,
occasionally, the Carjacker takes you along with the car.
In the event of a Carjacking, most experts generally advise to just
let the criminal have the vehicle, reasoning, as with your wallet,
that your life is far more valuable than your vehicle.
[What You Can Do]
First, keep your vehicle locked at all times while you are operating
it. Yes, lock the doors. This sounds simple but is so often
overlooked. Why give a criminal free and easy access to your vehicle
just by opening the door?
Second, keep your windows rolled up and use your air conditioner
instead. The amount of energy you save by not running your air
conditioner is minimal, particularly at speed over 35 MPH where open
windows create additional wind resistance and increases fuel
consumption.
Third, again, be aware of your environment. Be careful of where you
drive and notice people loitering near "stops" such as stop lights,
stop signs, drive-throughs, and parking lots.
Many experts suggest that, in the event of a Carjacking you simply
drive off. However, according to Tom Herlihy, a Car Security Expert,
"A majority of carjackings and crime against people in motor vehicles
happens in urban environments, where there is traffic that impedes the
ability to drive away." This makes sense because the best environment
for a Carjacker to ply his trade is when your vehicle is already
running but you are required to stop for some reason or another.
Nevertheless, though this may not always be possible, when it _is_ an
option, use it.
You should be prepared for the possibility of a Carjacking in which
you can not simply "drive away" or surrender your vehicle, such as if
you are transporting your children at the time. In the unhappy chance
that this occurs you may be forced to fight. If so, the fight _hard_.
Yell, punch, kick, etc. Attack him, don't wait for him to attack you.
Use whatever weapons come to hand. If you are already armed, then
use that weapon. If you are not armed then use any weapon of
opportunity that comes to hand; coffee mugs, pens or pencils, spare
change to throw at him, etc. Most importantly, don't give up and
draw attention to yourself. Some have suggested that in the event of
a Carjacking, children may not be in a great danger from the
Carjacker. He is only interested in your car, so the reasoning goes,
and the children are likely to be simply dropped off after a few
blocks, unharmed. If you wish to take this chance that is, of
course, your decisions, but whatever the case be informed. Some
suggestions include: Don't forget that the car is a "two ton club"
and a "portable house." If threatened you may be in a position to
use the vehicle as a weapon, either to literally run over the
attacker or as a solid object to bash the attacker into. "Tire
Buddies" and bridge bolts make excellent improvised weapons. If you
choose to keep a knife in your vehicle, use a stout fixed blade. The
pommel will serve to break safety glass and the blade for hacking at
sheet metal or cutting safety belts. If you are abducted but driving
the vehicle, it has been suggested that you drive at a high rate of
speed and crash the car into the nearest police cruiser you can find.
If the bad guy wasn't wearing his seat-belt, that's just too bad. It
should be noted, however, that you may be committing a felony by
doing this. As always, extreme measures, such as this, require
careful consideration well before hand before implementing.
[Road Rage]
Road Rage is the phenomenon in which a driver becomes so angry that he
or she decides to take violent action as a result. This violent
action may include such things as side-swiping the offending vehicle,
short-stopping in front of the offending vehicle, tail-gating,
following the offending vehicle to its destination and physically
confronting the operator, forcing the vehicle to stop on the road and
confronting the operator, or, in extreme circumstances, using a
firearm to shoot at the offending vehicle.
You should know that recent studies have shown that there is no
evidence of an increase or spike in the number of "Road Rage"
incidents, a fact that was recently "reported" on by one of the
popular news programs. People going nuts because of traffic
frustrations is really about the same as it has always been. What has
changed is the reporting. "Road Rage" is a scary thing and it has
been making it into the news a lot more than it used to.
You don't need to install bulletproof glass in your car. You can
decrease the likelihood of becoming involved in a "Road Rage" incident
by being a polite and courteous driver. Obey the traffic rules and
remember that the other guy may be going some place too. He might be
late for his Anger Management Therapy.
------------------------------
Subject: 5 - At Home
[Securing your Home]
[Windows]
Windows are a common entrance for people with no good intentions. Most
often they enter through a window left open or partially open. Close
your windows and use the window latch to lock them closed. When
selecting new windows, purchase strong, durable windows that have
strong latches. You can also purchase after market window locks that
install to the frame of wooden frame windows. A simple and
inexpensive window block is a dowel cut to size and wedged between the
top sash of the lower window and the top frame.
Do not neglect your second story windows when securing your windows.
Criminals are often creative and clever when it comes to finding ways
into your home.
Of course, as any Law Enforcement Officer can tell you, these
precautions won't deter a thoroughly determined criminal. After all,
the criminal can simply smash the window and gain entry. Some alarm
systems (discussed later) can detect a window being broken but that
merely provides warning and notification, it does not prevent the
criminal from entering if he so desires. Window bars or break
resistant windows are a natural solution. However both add cost to
securing your home. Further, window bars can prevent emergency exit
should the need arise, such as with a fire, and are often considered
unattractive. A potentially more attractive solution to standard
window bars is to employ a local Artist-Blacksmith if you have one in
your area (http://www.abana.org/). He may be able to build you a
fancy set of window bars that do not look like window bars to your
design specifications such as flowers or Celtic designs.
Finally, you should consider installing and using quality blinds or
heavy drapes. These can prevent snooping, deter criminals trying to
get a quick reconnaissance of your house, and help preserve your
privacy. You should draw your blinds or curtains whenever your home
is unoccupied for a period of time such as when you are at work or
away for the day.
[Doors]
The entry doors to your home should be of sturdy construction. All
metal fire or "security" doors are a good option. Install a peep hole
that can be easily used by all members of your home. Consider
installing two, one at a lower level, if you have children. Install a
quality deadbolt lock.
Do not neglect the doorframe. To put it simply, it doesn't matter how
sturdy and strong your door and lock is if the frame is weak. Most
doorframes are construction quality wood and will easily splinter and
break when the door is struck forcefully. A great number of forced
entries show failure where the lock enters the frame. Consider a
reinforced or steel frame for all your entry doors.
Double Doors, French Doors, and Sliding Glass Doors present additional
challenges to security. Consider avoiding these types of doors. If
you must have Double or French Doors, or if you are moving into a
house that already has them, consider reinforcing and securing the
doors as you have your other entry doors. Pay attention to locks,
lock settings, and frames. Modern Double and French Doors designed
for entries, besides being of all steel construction and reinforced
glass, often have throw bolts at the top and the bottom of each door
that can slide into the frame for added security. Sliding Glass Doors
can be particularly troublesome. Older models were easy to lift off
of their tracks, the latches tended to be simplistic and ineffective,
and were, of course, all glass. Give serious thought to replacing
Sliding Glass Doors with more secure doors. A simple stop-gap measure
to prevent simply forcing the lock and sliding a Sliding Glass Door
open is to block it shut by slipping a wooden dowel cut to length in
the track.
[The Garage]
Protect your garage entries as you would your other home entries.
Install all steel doors and use deadbolt style locks on those doors.
This should include the home entry door from the garage for attached
garages. Always keep your vehicle entry door ("garage door"
hereafter) closed when you are not actually in the garage. If you do
not use an automatic garage door opener be sure to use a quality
locking mechanism. If you are using an automatic garage door opener,
be sure to use a modern "coded" or "digital" remote. Older automatic
garage door opener systems used signals that are easily broken or
duplicated by criminals. If your automatic garage door opener
predates about 1985 then replace it.
[Shrubs]
Shrubs can be either a security enhancement or a security drawback.
Shrubs can be used by criminals to hide behind/in or can be so large
as to prevent a passerby from observing a criminal jimmying a window.
Especially ones beside your windows and door. Be careful of the
placement and size of ornamental shrubs near walkways that a criminal
may hide behind or in as you pass by or as you observe from the
peephole of your front door.
On the other hand, especially dense shrubs or shrubs with thorns can
be an effective deterrent to criminals. Consider placing thorny
shrubs or bushes in front of ground floor windows.
According to some horticulturists, the best, without a shadow of a
doubt, in any anti-thief hedging plant is berberis,(known probably
more commonly as barberry).
It will grow everywhere and with no care at all, will form a dense
hedge packed with fearsome thorns that will penetrate even plastic
coated heavy work gloves. There are many varieties;most have both
pretty flower clusters, good Autumnal foliage and masses of scarlet
berries which birds find irresistible. Another spinney example would
be pyrocanthus.
Roses are spinney yes but suffer from the disadvantage of having to be
pruned regularly and quite harshly and require a lot of supporting
when a large dog rose for example is grown.
If just seclusion is required then the staple tree is Leylandii, but
be warned it grows very quickly shades a large area and many places
have placed a ban on planting them. Your neighbors will not be
impressed.
Privet hedging or box is a nice alternative, kept well trimmed it will
form a densely packed barrier, if a little boring. Some favor hazel
which has been trimmed back to form many stems the creamy flowers and
Autumn foliage make it a beautiful alternative to a plain wooden fence
or wall.
If you had time on your hands and fancy a classic barrier plant you
could even try a yew hedge, slow growing but worth the wait as it has
both berries and plenty of spaces for birds to nest in.
[Lighting]
Security lighting can be an effective option for your home. Security
lighting can be as unobtrusive as simple porch lights and walkway
lights. The key element is to ensure that lighting is bright enough
to reveal entry ways and to expose hiding places around your home.
Mounted flood-lamps are also another popular option. These can
produce a lot of light, are directional, and easy to install. As you
integrate lighting into your home security plan you should place your
external lights on timer activation or daylight sensitive switches.
Another popular option is to link exterior security lights to motion
sensors. Be aware, however, that animals, such as stray cats and
dogs may set off the lights.
[Fences]
Many people install fences in hopes of increasing home security.
Most fences, however, are not effective deterrents. They are usually
easy to climb or otherwise defeat. Outside of military or
correctional style barbed wire topped fences a fence is just not an
effective deterrent. On the other hand, so-called "privacy fences"
can be quite effective at preventing casual observation or snooping.
Unfortunately they may also prevent a casual passerby from noticing a
problem in your home. In the end, a privacy fence is a trade off that
needs careful consideration.
[Burglar Alarms]
Burglar alarms are often selected to enhance home security. If you
choose to use one there are some things you should know.
Every alarm system should cover all entries into your home including
doors, windows, and garage doors.
Not all home alarm systems are created equal. Some alarm systems will
monitor window and door opening while others will also detect
breakage. Some can monitor movement or entry into spaces.
Some alarm systems are "monitored" by a Monitoring Company and others
are not. Most Monitoring companies are "value added" setups. Their
monitoring will often include options such as dispatching company
personnel to check out tripped alarms, notifying police, and emergency
"panic buttons." If you use a Monitoring company which automatically
notifies police of an alarm trip you should know that the vast
majority of alarm trips are false alarms. This is important because
of the effect it has on Law Enforcement. The effect is that Law
Enforcement tends to be reluctant to check on alarm notifications.
Further, many Cities will assess a fine for dispatching police to a
false alarm or after some designated number of dispatches to false
alarms.
Self described "Consumer Warrior" Clark Howard (a well known
consumer advocate), has a few tips he thinks you should know:
- Choose only a company that doesn't require a contract to monitor
your alarm. If you feel you have to sign a contract, never sign one
for more than one year, and make sure it doesn't have a "rollover"
clause that renews that contract automatically.
- Don't pay more than $15 to $20 a month for monitoring.
- To shop, start calling companies at the end of the yellow page
listings, instead of front, because the big expensive companies
usually are the first listed.
- To figure the cost of equipment, make a drawing of your home, or a
checklist, and figure out how many doors and windows you need to
protect.
- Don't lease a burglar alarm system.
- Always get smoke and fire monitoring as part of the system.
(ref: http://clarkhoward.com/library/tips/security_systems.html)
While we're on the topic of alarms you should, at a minimum install at
least one Smoke Detector and Carbon Monoxide Detector per floor or
following the manufacturer's recommendations for area coverage. Make
sure that the alarms can be heard from all areas of the home. Also,
change the batteries in your Detectors twice a year or as recommended
by the manufacturer. A convenient time to remember to do this is
Daylight Savings Time days but any bi-annual day could work such as
the Solstices.
[Safe Rooms]
A Saferoom is a room in your house specially designated and pre-
prepared for the event of an emergency. The idea is to have a place
where you and your family can meet and be safe if you believe you may
be in danger. This room should be easy for everyone to get to. Often
the Master Bedroom or the private bath off of the Master Bedroom is
selected. It should be fitted with a strong door and a strong lock.
You should also stock it with a fully charged cell phone in case your
standard phone line is unavailable for some reason. For this purpose
you can even use a cell phone that has been canceled since 911 is
always available even on a canceled cell line. Further, equip your
Saferoom with a First Aid Kit. Finally, if you have decided to keep a
firearm for home defense, this is an ideal location to store it. You
may also wish to consider selecting your Saferoom for shelter from
Tornadoes if they are a threat in your area or with the ability to
exit the home in mind such as in the event of a fire.
One disadvantage of a Saferoom is that you've got to be able to get to
it for it to be of any value to you. If it's too far away when an
emergency strikes or if the event unfolds too quickly to make use of
your Saferoom, you might as well not have one. It has its
limitations. However, don't be discouraged or or dissuaded, many
stories of an Armed Defender situation that starts off, "I heard a
noise in the xxxx so I went check on it..." In those cases, you would
have plenty of time to get to a safe room then or send your family
there.
[Neighborhood Watches]
A Neighborhood Watch is an organization of local residents which
"patrols" the neighborhood, usually at night, looking for suspicious
activities. When something suspicious is noted they will usually
notify Law Enforcement to investigate. Neighborhood Watch programs
are not vigilantes. They take no direct action. However, the
presence of active and obviously observing parties can often deter
criminals from entering an area. This is particularly true when the
Neighborhood Watch program is coupled with "warning" signs and has Law
Enforcement participation. Most Law Enforcement encourage
Neighborhood Watch programs provided that they abide by reasonable
strictures designed to keep the participants safe. Sometimes this may
include training in safety, observation, and notification procedures.
If you are interested in participating in or starting a Neighborhood
Watch in your area, contact the local Law Enforcement, Neighborhood
Union, Community Center, or search on the web for your area.
[Dogs]
It has been estimated that between 80 and 90% of all homes with a dog
will never be broken into; any kind of dog, not just giant "eat the
bad guy in one gulp" dogs. Apparently yappy dogs work just as well as
a deterrent. Many "reformed" burglars comment that the largest
deterrent to their trade was a dog. Either dogs that they feel pose
a risk of injury to them or that would call attention to them.
However simply getting a dog is not a Panacea. Owning dogs requires a
commitment. Dogs can be inconvenient and, if ill trained, messy,
noisy, destructive, and even a danger to innocent parties. They
require an investment of time and money. You must establish yourself
as the "Pack Leader." You are responsible for meeting the dog's needs
for food, shelter, and care even when it's not convenient for you such
as if you leave town on a trip and are unable to take the dog with you
or if you must leave the dog alone for long periods of the day because
of your work schedule. Most communities have laws specifically
related to minimums of care and health for pets including
immunizations and restraint laws. Some communities have laws that
will fine if your pet triggers the motion sensor on your burglar alarm
and the police respond to a False Alarm.
Finding a suitable pet that will blend well with your family is easier
than ever. There are countless Dog Rescue programs that will match
you up with a particular breed as well as the local Animal Shelter or
programs such as SICSA. Further, many of these programs will train
the dog to good standards before you ever take ownership and often
offer additional pet training classes for your consumption. Many of
these organizations have minimum requirements for adoption and may
require specific items such as a fence around your yard as well as
references, visits to your home, or even background checks.
[Exit Plan]
You should have an Exit Plan for your home. This plan describes how
all members of your family can get out of the home in case of an
emergency such as a fire, Home Invasion, or carbon monoxide alarm.
Make sure that all members of your household know and understand the
Exit Plan. Further, take steps to account for members that can not
follow the plan such as small children or the impaired. Your Exit
Plan should account for blocked areas and second story exits. You may
want to purchase or assemble an "emergency exit kit." Directions for
these are readily available on the Internet and include items like
rope ladders for unfurling down second story windows. Finally, your
Exit Plan should include not only "how to get out safely" but also
where to meet after exiting. Places such as "under the street light
in the front yard" are common.
------------------------------
Subject: 6 - Identity Theft
[Identity Theft]
Identity Theft is a growing problem today with no end in site. The
basics of Identity Theft is simply a criminal posing as you in order
to make purchases or gain credit in your name. Often this is done
electronically but not always. Identity Theft can be anything from
stealing your credit card number and making charges as if he were you
to actually taking out new lines of credit (credit cards, loans, etc.)
and leaving you on the hook for the bill.
Being responsible for charges you did not make is not the only risk.
Identity Theft can damage your credit standing, making it difficult to
take out credit in the future such as buying a house. Further many
companies are using Credit Scores as a measure for doing business with
you in ways never considered before and which, sometimes, appear to
defy logic. For instance, many Insurance Providers are now using
Credit Scores to decide whether or not to issue Insurance Policies and
how much to charge if they do. Finally if a criminal is writing
actual paper Checks in your name you could end up being arrested.
Criminals have many tools at their disposal in which to impersonate
you. Often you have little recourse when they do. When you do you
often must endure a long and difficult process cleaning up your life.
To further complicate matters victims of Identity Theft frequently are
unaware that their identity has been pilfered until they start
receiving collection notices or are denied for credit.
[What You Can Do to Prevent Identity Theft]
First, always keep your Social Security Number secret. Never have it
printed on documents that you carry with you, which are vulnerable to
theft or loss, such as your Drivers License or your Check Book. When
you must carry these documents with you do not leave them unattended
in a place where they may be stolen such as in your vehicle. Never
disclose your Social Security Number or other pertinent information
to someone over the phone or from anyone official-looking that turns
up on your doorstep. For instance, someone asking for details to
confirm your identity as "they have a package for delivery to you".
Social engineering is becoming increasing common and sophisticated,
and is very effective at getting lesser details to use in conjunction
with other information obtained through mail theft, for example.
Be suspicious of any e-mails you receive asking you to "confirm" your
identity, username, passwords, PIN, Social Security Number, and the
like. No reputable organization which you do business with will
require this. This is usually a scam known as "phishing" (phonetic
spelling of "Fishing" as in "hooking the sucker and reeling him in.").
Do not be fooled, even if they have a link to a website that looks
professional or exactly like your banks web site.
Make photocopies of all documents in your wallet then store these in a
safe place, such as a firesafe or Bank Lock box. If your wallet is
then lost or stolen you will have a record of all documents that were
lost so you can begin replacing them, canceling credit cards, etc.
Keep close watch on your Credit Reports from all three of the major
reporting agencies. Banks and credit reporting companies are
beginning to offer protection services for a fee. These
'subscriptions' alert the individual about credit checks and offer
help in cases of identity theft.
Be aware of who you give your credit card to in the course of daily
business. Gas station attendants, restaurant wait staff, and people
in similar positions are in a position to clone your credit card or
copy the numbers. Though most are honest, there are, of course, some
who are not.
Consider using a traditional Credit Card instead of a "Debit Card"
that deducts directly from your bank account. Though you do not incur
interest penalties when using your Debit Card, there are far more
fraud protections available to you when using a traditional Credit
Card. If a criminal uses your Debit Card to steal money directly from
your Checking Account, you may find it difficult or impossible to have
the funds replaced by the bank. Further, the missing funds may cause
important checks or auto debits to bounce such as your mortgage
payment and you may incur "bounced check" fees.
Consider using online payments or automated electronic payments for
major, reoccurring bills such as mortgage payments or utilities. This
will prevent criminals from stealing checks and routing numbers from
your outgoing mail. Alternately directly drop your outgoing bill
payments into postboxes or the outgoing mail slots at the post office
or hand them to your mail carrier yourself.
Keep a close watch on your billing documents from your Credit Card
agencies and your Checking Account with your Bank or Credit Union.
Ensure that all of your bills actually get to you and are not stolen
by mail thieves for the purpose of Identity Theft. One way to do this
is to have a locking "drop box" type mail box or an in-door mail slot.
Put "Fraud Watches" on your accounts and do business with Credit Card
agencies which are known to be advocates for their customers.
Destroy all records which have Credit Card data, or any other personal
data on them such as your name, address and any other details that you
are not keeping for long term records. Use a paper shredder or burn
records that you are destroying.
For more information visit the Federal Trade Commission's web site on
Identity Theft at:
http://www.consumer.gov/idtheft/
------------------------------
Subject: 7 - Women's Self Defense
OK ladies. Here's the straight scoop. This section is specifically
addressing your concerns about _WOMEN'S_ self defense.
[Rape]
One of the biggest reasons many women want to learn Self Defense is to
prevent or be able to disengage a rape attempt.
Depending on what statistics you use, as many as 710 women for every
100,000 women are raped in the U.S. alone during a one year period and
one in _SEVEN_ women will be sexually assaulted in their lifetimes.
Do you know seven women? If you are a woman, do you know six others?
Lifetime Date or acquaintance rape for college age women range from
between 20-68%. Nearly 3% of college women reported a rape or
attempted rape in the previous six months. That number rises to 4.9%
when extended to the past calendar year.
80-95% of all, on campus, college rapes are committed by an
acquaintance, most often the steady dating partner and about 70% of
those rapes occur while on a date.
The threat of sexual assault is very real and much more prevalent than
many would like to believe.
[Situational Awareness and Pre-Planning]
The best defense against sexual assault is to not be in a position for
it to happen in the first place, obviously. This can be tricky,
however. The Situational Awareness as generally applied to most Self
Defense is far too coarse a filter for Situational Awareness against
sexual assault. Further, preventative measures generally applied to
generic Self Defense are often inadequate to defense against sexual
assault. As an example, a common preventative measure advocated for
general Self Defense is to simply avoid places where there is a high
percentage of being put in a dangerous situation. However, the nature
of the most common sexual assault today is Acquaintance Rape or Date
Rape. The victim is generally in a position she feels comfortable
with and with a person who is known to her. This very seldom raises
any red flags early enough to take preventative measures based on a
"bad feeling" or other subconscious warnings. Instead, potential
victims need to be proactive in their preventative measures and
expand their Situational Awareness to a point much earlier in their
planning and away from the immediacy of the situation. Take proactive
steps to avoid being put in a position where Date Rape or Acquaintance
Rape is feasible. Some examples:
- Meet only in public places.
- Meet your date at the event, take your own car, not his.
- Double date.
[Date Rape Drugs]
One common fear is the use of so called "Date Rape Drugs." These are
drugs that have no (or easily masked) color, odor, or taste but will
incapacitate the victim. They're usually slipped into something the
victim is consuming or the victim is tricked into taking them. Common
Date Rape Drugs include but are not limited to, Rohypnol ('Roofies'),
Gamma Hydroxy Butyrate (GHB), Ketamine ('Special K'), and Alcohol.
Yes, alcohol is the most common, and oldest known, Date Rape Drug.
What's more insidious about alcohol is that the person consuming it
usually does so of their own free will and through their own excess
inadvertently make themselves vulnerable to sexual predation. Some
quick tips on avoiding "Date Rape Drugs."
- Do not drink alcohol at parties or on dates.
- If you must drink limit your intake to one or two drinks.
- Go with a trusted friend who will not be drinking so that they
can "monitor" your state.
- Do not drink anything from a pre-mixed punchbowl.
- Do not leave your drink alone.
- Do not let someone else get your drink for you; do not accept
drinks from someone you do not know and trust.
[Getting Physical]
Outside of situational and preventative measures, what to do when
actually being physically attacked is important.
As a woman, you are going to have to come to terms with the fact that
you are always going to be at a major disadvantage when it comes to
fighting; for this reason, you might want to consider looking into a
style that teaches you to use a weapon such as a club or a knife or a
style that teaches you how to react when you are in physically
compromised situations such as if a strong, heavy man is laying on top
of you and hitting you in the head.
Remember that the reason that weapons exist is to nullify the
advantages of size and strength of one fighter over another - you
don't see weight classes in fencing competitions, but you do in
boxing, wrestling, and judo.
Many women go to a Self Defense Class which often lasts only an
afternoon or a weekend. Sometimes good material is presented,
sometimes not. However, you should know that even though the physical
skills taught are easy or seem effective in order to fully
functionalize them into your body, you are going to need to practice
them periodically. Preferably this practice would be against someone
who will not "give in" but force you to "make the technique work."
Simply seeing the techniques once and practicing them a few times and
then never reviewing or practicing them again will likely not prepare
you to use them under stress.
Further, you should be aware that some of what is being taught is just
absolute garbage. Worthless. Hucksters. It's difficult to describe
"bad" instruction so that it can be recognized but there are some red
flags that you should be aware of in Women's Self Defense instruction.
First, anyone who claims to be able to teach you to "fight" in the
course of a weekend seminar or less. Women's Self Defense shouldn't
be about "fighting" but rather avoidance, resistance, stopping an
attack, and escape. Learning how to actually "fight" simply takes
longer than one short seminar. Secondly be suspicious of anyone
telling you that women are physically equal to men. This is just flat
untrue and anyone saying it is either uninformed or has something to
sell. Though most women are aware of it, it bears repeating, men are,
as a general rule, larger, stronger, more aggressive, and able to
withstand more pain than women. If this were not true there would be
not separation of sexes in sports and we would see women playing line-
backers in Football. Make no mistake, criminals are also well aware
of this fact and will deliberately target victims they believe are
less likely or able to resist. This frequently equates to female
victims. Third be wary of anyone who tells you that size and strength
do not matter. Size and strength _DO_ matter; a great deal. If it
were not so there would be no weight classes in Boxing or Judo. While
it is true that skill can cover the gap between size and strength it
can frequently take quite a bit of learned skill to make the jump.
Finally, be careful of anyone presenting "dirty fighting techniques"
as "guaranteed" man stoppers. There is no such thing. These usually
take the form of the classic "groin kick," "eye gouge," and "bite."
While these are all useful techniques none of them are sure fire man
stoppers. Men have been learning to protect their groins since birth.
If you know it is a sensitive area, how much more do you think that a
man does? Further, some men are able to simply ignore or push through
even severe pain due to the effects of adrenalin or just being a tough
old cuss. Let no one tell you that this-or-that secret or dirty-
fighting technique is sure to stop a determined attacker. The _ONLY_
sure way of instantly stopping a determined attacker is by damaging
or destroying his Central Nervous System. A man in reasonable health
can continue to pursue an attack for as much as 15 seconds even after
his heart has been so severely damaged that it can no longer continue
to pump blood, as in cases where one or more gunshot wounds have
"destroyed" the heard. A lot of damage can be done in 15 seconds.
How much less certain are "dirty-fighting" techniques?
Additionally, you should also be aware that many of the more effective
techniques and many of the best respected martial arts are going to
put you in what you might consider "intimate" contact, wrestling
around with your training partners. There are various names for the
positions and techniques such as "the Guard" or "North South" but
they're going to look VERY sexual to you. Partners wrestling around
in each other's legs or faces near crotches or hands on thighs. You
may be put off or feel uncomfortable by the idea of being placed in
such "intimate" contact on such a regular basis, particularly when
you're desiring to _PREVENT_ these activities. Some women feel _VERY_
uncomfortable, sometimes describing these Self Defense instruction as
feeling "too real." It can be frightening to have a training partner
with his or her hips between your knees. Nevertheless, the simple
fact is that one can not effectively learn to prevent an action unless
their training partner simulates that action so that one can learn how
to prevent it. If you wanted to learn to ride a bicycle you wouldn't
read a book about it. You wouldn't get a bicycle and put it in your
garage thinking, "it will be there if I ever need it." You wouldn't
"visualize" it happening except as part of a practice and drilling
process. You would get someone experienced at bicycle riding to help
show you how, give advice, and adjust your technique while you
actually practiced riding the bicycle. To be blunt, why would you
expect it to be different learning to stop a guy trying to force his
hips between your legs, grab your crotch, or knock you down and climb
on top of you?
Further, many women feel uncomfortable letting people get within their
personal space. This is an area that extends around your body that
you desire to keep clear, at least subconsciously. This can be
anywhere from one to three feet depending on several factors.
Which do you think would make you more uncomfortable, working in a
safe environment with other people who want you to be able to learn to
stop these things and are trying to help you do so, or actually
getting raped?
[Tap into the lizard brain - get MAD]
A good treatise dealing with this sort of problem from, of all places,
women in the SCA. This essay discusses the nearly unique "Five
Hurdles" faced by women who are entering "contact" training such as
Martial Arts.
http://www.themoorecollection.com/fivehurdles.html
One of the key elements examined in this essay is that men and women
think and react differently. Though it should go without saying, men
are statistically far more likely to engage in aggression and violence
than women. This is due to brain development, male chemistry, and
differences in socialization. The two important conclusions drawn
from this are, first that most violent threats to women will come from
men and, second, women are less likely to know how to react with sure
and confident aggression for their own defense and often will require
more time and training to release defensive aggression upon need.
------------------------------
Subject: 8 - Martial Arts
For many people "Martial Arts" is synonymous with "Self Defense." You
should know, however, that not all Martial Arts are ideally suited for
Self Defense. Some may argue that _most_ Martial Arts are not ideally
suited for Self Defense simply because most will not teach you related
skills such as appropriate and legal use of Force, de-escalation, or
Situational Awareness, detailed elsewhere in this Guide (See Subjects
3 and 10). Though most Martial Arts contain, to a greater or lesser
degree, elements which can be applicable to Self Defense, there are
many Martial Arts which contain elements which may not be directly
applicable to Self Defense. This may limit its value as a Self Defense
skill. These elements include, but are not restricted to:
- Focus on sporting variations of that particular Martial Art with
rule sets that are too limiting.
- Exclusively teaching weapons that are not applicable or appropriate
for modern use, such as swords or spears.
- Focus on "artistic" goals, health goals, or maintenance of
traditional, yet no longer applicable, aspects of the Martial Art
at the expense of Self Defense related material.
- Lack of a practice venue, often called 'sparring', that allows for
the practitioner to test his skills against non-compliant opponents
in order to refine and internalize technique and learn which
techniques are effective or ineffective against which opponents and
under what circumstances.
Failure on this list does not mean that a given Martial Art has no
value. Martial Arts are often considered to have value outside of
raw fighting ability or Self Defense such as improved confidence,
discipline, health, and as a sort of "living historic artifact" which
may help the practitioner gain an emotional link with previous
generations or culture.
The important thing to remember for our purposes here is that
achievement in a Martial Art does not necessarily translate directly
to excellence in fighting or ability in Self Defense.
------------------------------
Subject: 9 - Physical Conditioning
[What is Physical Conditioning]
Essentially this is being physically fit. It is being in at least
reasonable physical condition to be able to perform aerobic or
strength activities.
[Why Do I Need That?]
Much of the advice offered herein is often applied "common sense" or
the result of other people's hard won experience. One of the most
commonly offered pieces of advice to avoid a confrontation is,
naturally, to "run away" when you can. If you're not in good enough
physical condition to run more than a few steps then you are depriving
yourself of an important tool for your Self Defense. Obviously there
are times when you simply can't run away for various reasons such as
if you need to protect a third party, are blocked by barriers, or
suffer a physical infirmity that prevents it. Still, if you are
physically capable of being able to run you should not deny yourself
that option.
Additionally, if you are, as a last resort, required to fight you
should know that it's strenuous business. Even a few seconds can see
you expending a great deal of energy and if you do not have the
physical reserves to rise to the challenge you may fail and become a
victim even though you were prepared in every other way.
Further, you should also include a bit of strength training in your
physical fitness activities. You don't have to be immensely strong
but you do need to be able to operate at a level of strength. It is
true that the blatantly, obviously strong and bulky men can be
somewhat intimidating in appearance and that alone may be enough to
dissuade a potential attack during the Interview phase, know that
it's not a guarantee nor is it a requirement for effective Self
Defense. Many Self Defense tools of opportunity are basically clubs.
The more strength you are able to bring to bear in using a club the
more effective it will be at the task. Also the stronger you are, the
more capable you will be of breaking a grip and escaping should an
attacker manage to lay hands upon you.
Finally, being physically fit will add years to your life and help
ensure that those years will be in a higher "quality of life."
Think of it as Self Defense against the ravages of time.
[How to get Physical Conditioning]
Naturally you should check with your physician before starting a new
exercise routine, however, once cleared the options are boundless and
can be tailored to your individual personality, preferences, schedule,
and financial requirements.
You have options that include no equipment such as jogging, swimming,
calisthenics, and exercises that use your body weight like pushups
and pullups.
You have options that include Organizations and Clubs such as:
* Professional Gyms
* Professional workout trainers
* The local YM/WCA
* Community Centers
* The local Park and Rec.
* Your Religious group may also offer supervised exercise programs
* Schools or College Campuses that open to the public after hours
* Police Clubs
* Further, you may also wish to band together with a small group of
your friends and intimates. This often works well as you can offer
each other moral support and encouragement.
Here are some Internet links to get you started.
Body By Fish
http://www.trainforstrength.com/ex-2.shtml
Body Weight Training
http://pub58.ezboard.com/fbodyweightboardfrm1
Animal Ability
http://pub17.ezboard.com/fanimalabilityanimalability
Master Trainer: Bodybuilding, Weightlifting and Lifetime Fitness
http://www.ageless-athletes.com
Mistress Krista's Women's Weight Training
http://www.stumptuous.com/cms/index.php
Usenet Newsgroups
news://alt.fitness.weights
news://misc.fitness
news://misc.fitness.aerobic
news://misc.fitness.misc
news://misc.fitness.walking
news://misc.fitness.weights
news://rec.fitness
------------------------------
Subject: 10 - Deadly Force and the Force Continuum
In the words of Jim Keating:
"To have a defensible self-defense case you need several
factors in your favor. They are simple and they must be
present or you are going to jail for a long time. These
factors are this:
* Opportunity
* Imminent Jeopardy
* Ability
* Preclusion
Leave out one or more of these factors and you lose. Have
these aspects present and provable and it's much more likely
that you'll win."
[Elements of Legitimate Self Defense]
As noted above, it's canonical that there are four elements of
legitimate Self Defense.
Ability:
This is the physical capability to kill or seriously injure.
Sometimes this means a weapon such as a knife, club, or gun. It can
also mean "Disparity of Force." Disparity of Force in this context is
when there is a large enough difference between the attacker and the
attacked that raw physical capability alone is enough to be recognized
as Deadly Force. The typical examples are a group attack, though
unarmed, against a single individual, or the proverbial attack by a
300 pound enraged linebacker against a 90 year old fragile boned
grandmother.
Opportunity:
Opportunity is similar to Ability, in that it reflects a raw ability
to inflict grievous harm. However, Opportunity is more often linked
to physical proximity. If the attacker is not within range to perform
the attack then there is no threat. An attacker with a knife 30 feet
away is no attacker at all. On the other hand, an attacker with a
firearm 30 feet away is most certainly within range to inflict bodily
harm. An attacker must have the "Opportunity" to use his "Ability"
for the attack to be credible.
Imminent Jeopardy:
This means that the threat is immediate and that a "Reasonable Man"
would believe, based on what information is available at the time,
that the aggressor's intent is to cause severe physical harm or death.
Threats by the aggressor of some future attack do not satisfy Imminent
Jeopardy while threats or actions that indicate an immediate intention
do.
Preclusion:
This means that all other options preceding Deadly Force were either
exhausted or were not viable. Some places have a Duty to Retreat law
or legal precedent. Essentially these address the same issue.
Legally and morally the individual must reasonably eliminate all other
methods to stop an attack before resorting to Deadly Force. This does
not mean that the individual must first "try, fail, discard, and then
try another" to eliminate all other option. Many options are
eliminated by immediacy of the threat. As an example, one simply does
not have time to call the police and report a burglar when an
aggressor is in the process of pounding you into jelly.
[The Force Continuum]
The Force Continuum is a concept of escalating Force responses to
match the level of threat or appropriate response. The primary
audience for the Force Continuum is Law Enforcement, Security, or
others who may have to respond to complex force justification
situations. Its application to civilian Self Defense in our ever
more litigious society is somewhat obvious.
The Force Continuum is generally represented by six "levels" with non-
verbal "presence" on one end of the scale and lethal responses at the
other end.
Level 1: Presence
Hostile (or criminal) activity is deterred simply by being seen.
Criminals usually don't want witnesses and may cease simply by being
observed. This may be facilitated by adopting an "Authoritative" or
"Assertive," but not aggressive, posture or bearing.
Level 2: Verbal Commands
Assertive, well selected, commands to "stop" or "move away" can
sometimes be sufficient though Verbal Commands can range up through
shouting. Presence and Verbal Commands are most often used in
conjunction with each other and, together, offer the lowest level of
"force" response possible. The Verbal Commands level is also the
appropriate level to attempt verbal de-escalation.
Level 3: Restraint
This level includes holds, locks, controls, and restraint devices such
as "come-along" holds, "submission" holds, and hand-cuffs. Sometimes
this level is referred to as "Soft Hands" meaning that the hands are
not formed as fists for the purpose of striking to cause permanent
damage.
Level 4: Non-Lethal Weapons
This level is meant to include devices that are generally considered
"non-lethal" such as pepper spray, and other chemical agents, and
electronic stun devices.
Level 5: Impact Weapons
Sometimes called "Hard Hands" to imply the use of fists to inflict
more serious, but not necessarily lethal, injury, this level is
intended to represent temporary physical incapacitation. It includes
use of impact weapons such as batons and fists with the goal of
"injuring to stop" but not killing. For most Law Enforcement this
means that high vulnerability targets such as the head are off limits.
Arms, legs, joints, and nerves and "pressure points" are generally the
targets of choice.
Level 6: Deadly Force
This level is universally known as "Deadly Force." As the name
indicates, it includes all methods generally accepted to be deadly.
This includes firearms, knives, and blunt instruments targeted at the
head. This level may also legally include choke holds inclusive of
both "strangulation" chokes as well as the infamous "sleeper"
blood-choke.
Then intention of the Force Continuum is to lay out an escalation of
force appropriate to the situation. To quote one Internet author:
"'Never shoot what you can baton; never baton what you can spray;
never spray what you can punch; never punch what you can walk away
from.' Less is best."
-Sly, _The psychology of self defense and the force continuum_
Sometimes it can be difficult to know where you are at on the Force
Continuum, to understand what level of response is appropriate.
Again, let me quote, this time from North Carolina Wesleyan College
chart intended for Law Enforcement Officers:
THE CONTINUUM OF FORCE
--------------------------------------------------------------------
| Suspect's Resistance Level: | Officer's Level: |
| 1. Suspect presence | 1. Interview stance |
| 2. Verbal resistance | 2. Verbal commands |
| 3. Passive resistance | 3. Passive techniques (handcuffs) |
| 4. Defensive resistance | 4. Chemical agents |
| 5. Active physical resistance | 5. Physical tactics/impact weapons|
| 6. Firearms/deadly force | 6. Firearms/deadly force |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
- http://faculty.ncwc.edu/toconnor/205/205lect03.htm
------------------------------
Subject: 11 - Guns And Other Weapons
This is a subject that makes people nervous. People often have strong
opinions on the subject of weapons in general and firearms in
particular.
The basic power of a weapon, whether used in Self Defense or in
unjustified attack, is that it is a "Force Multiplier." This means
that by using a weapon a person is able to increase the potential
damage they may inflict. By using a weapon a smaller person can
"elevate" their damage potential to that of a much larger unarmed
person, or even exceed it.
It has been said, "God made man. Sam Colt made him equal." Sam Colt
invented a popular pistol; the Single Action Army revolver, which, in
its various iterations, is equated with the essential "Cowboy Gun."
What you need to understand is that a weapon can "even the odds" in a
"Disparity of Force" situation (see Subject: 10 - Deadly Force and the
Force Continuum).
[Is a Weapon Appropriate For You?]
Before you decide to use any weapon as a Self Defense tool, you need
to understand the requirements for and consequences of using that
weapon, legal, moral, and ethical. Even if completely legally
justified, could you bring yourself to actually use a weapon in Self
Defense knowing that it could kill or permanently maim another person,
even though that person is an attacker? If you can, is that weapon
legal to own? Are there any restrictions on how, where and when you
can carry it? Is it a practical weapon for you?
As far as firearms in particular; Whatever your political views about
gun ownership, you will also need some basic familiarity with firearms
if this is knowledge you don't already have. We live in the 21st
century, not the 15th, and anyone who wants to know about how to
defend themselves against real-life threats is going to have to know
how to deal with firearms - handguns at a minimum, rifle and shotgun
if you can. Most martial arts schools will not address this, or
address it in a way that will more than likely get you killed, so get
this information from people who know what they are talking about: go
to a local pistol range, and ask about introductory classes (usually
they will have something like a day or half day beginners class for
$50-$100, and well worth it). No point in trying to defend yourself
against a weapon you don't understand.
[Won't It Just Be Taken Away and Used Against You?]
The short answer is "no."
On the subject of Self Defense and Weapons, firearms in particular, I
regularly see claims that "Statistics show a weapon will most likely
just be taken away and used against you." I have yet to ever actually
see the alleged source statistic or study for this claim. I've asked,
point blank, for the source when I've seen it stated but have never
been given one. Yet, though they can not produce a source for the
claim, propagators of this myth categorically refuse to retract the
statement. This is because they want the statement to be true even if
they have no proof of it, even though there are valid, peer reviewed,
studies and countless anecdotal evidence which contradict the
statement. When pushed for evidence, they can not even come up with
anecdotal stories to support their claims. The claim is false.
There are no studies that show a weapon used for Self Defense,
particularly firearms, will just be taken away and used against the
defender.
The long answer is that in order for a weapon to be a deterrent to an
attacker, the attacker must believe, first, that the weapon is capable
of injuring him, and second, that the person with the weapon will
actually use it. Though there are many cases where simply showing or
brandishing a weapon has scared away attackers, this is not a sure
route to follow. If you present a weapon for Self Defense you must be
prepared to use it. If you are not prepared to use it and the attacker
calls your bluff, then surely the otherwise unjustified fears of "the
weapon will only be taken away and used against you" will be fulfilled!
[Training]
Self Defense weapons tend to be simple to operate, deploy, and
understand. When it comes right down to it, knowing how to operate a
firearm or a knife is a great deal less complicated than knowing how
to operate a car. For this reason many people choose to carry weapons
for Self Defense without seeking any training in their use. This is a
strategy that can and has worked quite successfully for many who, in
an emergency, used a weapon for Self Defense for which they had no
training whatsoever. However, that aside, you should seek training
from a competent instructor for whatever weapons you select to carry
for Self Defense. Though most weapons used for Self Defense are
comparatively easy to use, a competent instructor will be able to show
you the best ways to employ the weapon for maximum Self Defense effect,
how to avoid common mistakes which could lower your chance of
successful Self Defense or even place you or innocent bystanders at
risk, and teach you how to best integrate your selected weapons into a
coherent Self Defense Strategy.
[The Right Tool for the Job]
If you've concluded that you will carry a weapon for Self Defense, the
next step is to decide exactly what weapon or weapons. There are a
number of tools designed for Self Defense, from Firearms to "Personal
Alarms." Take a little bit of time to identify your options,
requirements, and restrictions to decide what weapons are appropriate.
Things that you should consider are:
- Can you physically use the weapon; is it too heavy or too bulky for
you to effectively use?
- Can you obtain competent instruction for the weapon?
- Can you take weapon with you where you need to go?
- Are there legal restrictions on where or when you can carry the
weapon?
- Are you emotionally prepared to carry and use the weapon?
- Can you obtain the weapon; is it legal to own, can you afford to
purchase and maintain the weapon?
[Is the Weapon Legal]
Particularly in reference to firearms, but also for knives, batons,
and "Less Lethal" devices, you must know if it is legal for you to
possess the weapon. In the Unites States, it's legal in most places
for an adult (someone 18 years or older) to own and store a firearm in
their home. However, this is not so for all places. There are many
places, such as Washington D.C. or New York, where it is effectively
illegal for an adult citizen in good standing to own and store a
firearm in the home. Internationally, this is even less of a
certainty. Many developed nations have significant restrictions on
ownership and storage of firearms and indeed any "weapon." The
answer is, of course, to check with your local authorities before you
purchase.
The same is true of carrying a weapon on your person. In most places
it is not legal for a person conceal upon his or her person a weapon
for the express purpose of Self Defense. This is most particularly
true of firearms but also to some degree or another can extend to
generally any other device that can be considered a weapon. Knives
and Batons are the primary targets however items such as Pepper Spray
are also often included. In the U.S. one may usually carry a folding,
locking blade knife at or below 4 inches in length in a pants pocket
(generally considered "concealed"). Again, this is not a hard, fast
rule. Knives are "banned" in many specific places. Further,
internationally, the common knife suffers nearly as much as the
firearm. Locking blade, folding knives are essentially banned from
personal carry in Great Britain. Any knife is banned within certain
designated confines of the Airline industry. The answer is, again,
check with your local authorities before carrying a knife. Further,
it is your responsibility to know what designated areas are "no carry
zones" and to simply not carry in those areas.
This general rule applies to any weapon. Check first with your local
authorities to determine legality, restrictions, and/or training and
licensing requirements.
[Legal and Moral Ramifications]
This is not a short topic, nor can a simple Guide of this type do the
subject justice. Briefly however, if you choose to carry a weapon for
Self Defense you will have certain legal and moral obligations of
appropriate use. There may be restrictions on when you can even let
someone accidentally catch a glimpse of your weapon to say nothing of
when you can actually deploy it. There are obligations for safe carry
to prevent accidental deployment or discharge. If you ever do have to
deploy or use your weapon in Self Defense there almost certainly will
be legal consequences, perhaps only that the police wish to question
you but potentially as serious as arrest and charges of a crime. But
most importantly to the topic, you will have an obligation to ensure
that your carry or use of a weapon does not needlessly or recklessly
endanger or injure an innocent third party. You will be, and _should_
be held to a higher standard because of the enhanced capacity for harm
your weapon provides.
["Less Lethal" Weapons]
Less Lethal, or sometimes "Less than Lethal" weapons describe a class
of weapons designed to incapacitate an attacker or remove his desire
to be aggressive. The three most popular items in this category are
Pepper Sprays, Stun Guns, and Personal Alarms.
[Pepper Spray]
Pepper Sprays are made from a naturally occurring chemical in Cayenne
peppers called oleoresin capsicum or OC. OC is different from Tear
Gas or mace, which are irritants, in that OC is an Inflammatory
Agent; it causes inflammation and swelling in affected areas. This
can include the eye's, skin, and bronchiole areas of the lungs. The
effects can include temporary blindness, tearing, swelling of
affected areas, difficulty breathing or constricted breathing, and
pain and irritation of the skin. These effects are temporary and
will usually last from ten minutes to one hour. The effects are non-
lethal on the vast majority of the population however, some people
can have adverse reactions due to medical conditions such as Asthma,
severe allergic reactions or due to other factors.
Commercial Pepper Spray contains between 10% and 20% OC however, raw
OC percentages should not be the determining factor in your purchase.
How "hot" an OC/Pepper Spray is rated in Scoville Heat Units or SHU.
SHU can vary from product to product and is not necessarily directly
related to OC percentage. Check the product literature for SHU
rating. The higher the SHU rating, the more effective Pepper Spray,
generally. 2 million SHU seems to be about the average starting
range for Self Defense products.
You should also know that not everyone is equally affected by Pepper
Sprays. Some people seem to have greater tolerance to its effects
than others though most experts agree that the vast majority of
people are strongly affected by OC.
Like other weapons, using Pepper Spray has some advantages and
disadvantages unique to it and competent instruction should be sought.
To encourage you to seek competent instruction, one example of a
common mistake is to simply try to "hose down" the target; i.e.
depressing the trigger switch until the can is empty. Experts tell
me that this will actually dilute the amount of OC that is deposited
upon the target with the carrier material and that Pepper Spray
should be dispersed in brief, half-second, bursts.
Finally, you should know that Pepper Spray degrades over time. Most
have a shelf-life of one to two years. You should plan on replacing
your spray periodically, even if you have not used it.
[Stun Guns]
Stun Guns are electronic devices which use pulsing or alternating
electric shocks to incapacitate and cause pain. Manufacturers of
Stun Guns often make a lot of claims about exactly what they do and
how they work, using impressive and scientific sounding claims
including frequency and Megahertz or making claims about tuning the
device to specific sympathetic nervous system targets and the like.
These claims, though they may or may not be true, are largely
unsupported by independent research. At the basics, Stun Guns work by
pulsing electric current which causes muscles to contract. These
contractions are very strong and can potentially "tire" the affected
muscles with fatigue. The frequency at which the pulses operate can
also often make the affected muscles seem to be "locked." Finally,
these pulses cause a great deal of pain. This appears to be the
primary effect.
There are two general form factors of Stun Guns. The first, and most
common, is the traditional "brick." Ranging from the size of a small
cell phone (which they are sometimes shaped to resemble) up to about
that of a red brick, these are "contact" devices. The electric
contacts, which look like probes or metal nubs, must be in contact
with the target in order for the electric current to effect the
target. This necessitates close contact with a potential attacker.
The second, and best known, is the "gun" type. These devices use a
charge of compressed gas to propel barbed darts over a distance into
the target. These darts are attached to the device, which still
provides the electrical power, by trailing wire. This allows a safer
distance between potential attackers and you. However, as with any
projectile type weapon, it is still possible to miss the target.
Further, these devices suffer from a very low "ammunition" capacity;
often "one shot."
Not all Stun Guns are created equal. Some have lower voltages or
other limitations due to either design weaknesses or specific design
reductions. Stun Guns marketed to Police usually have higher ratings
on voltage and other specification. The undisputed leader in Stun Gun
technology is held by "Taser." This is the brand name that most
Police seem to carry.
Stun Guns do most of their "work" with high voltage but very low
amperage. The amperage used in Stun Guns is far below the amperage
level generally needed to kill a person, thus Stun Guns are generally
considered safe and non-lethal. However, some people may still have
adverse reactions to being shocked with a Stun Gun based on any number
of medical pre-conditions such as a weak heart or reduced cardio
capacity because of over stimulation due to drugs.
You should know that not everyone is affected equally by Stun Guns.
Some people seem to be able to shake off the effects or, depending on
the area of the target's body affected, may be able to simply ignore
the effects. This in combination with the varying quality of products
can make the use of Stun Guns, as with Pepper Spray, somewhat chancy
though, again, experts generally agree that Stun Guns are usually
effective across most of the population.
Two facts that has always bothered me abut Stun Guns are, first, the
misnomer of "Stun Gun." These electronic devices usually do not
"stun" people. Though they're usually perceived to be just like
Captain Kirk's Phaser set to "STUN" by most people, they are not.
There is no painless slipping into sleep. Secondly I am bothered by
the fact that criminals do not seem to use these to any significant
degree (if at all). If "Stun Guns" are so effective at incapacitating
determined, even violent, resistance, why do not muggers and related
criminals use them with regularity and frequency? Some of these
devices cost as little as $20 and are easily as accessible as
firearms, which criminals seem to much prefer to "Stun Guns."
Most Stun Guns do not wear out however batteries can become weak and
spent cartridges of "dart" style Stun Guns will need replaced. The
manufacturer will sell replacement cartridges and most "brick" style
Stun Guns have a second set of probes that you can use to ensure the
device is functioning by hitting the test button and watching
electricity arc from probe to probe.
For a more detailed description of how Stun Guns work,
howstuffworks.com has a good description:
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/stun-gun1.htm
[Personal Alarms]
Sometimes called "Screamers," Personal Alarms emit a loud noise such
as a siren, horn, or electronic screech when triggered. The desired
effect is to call unwanted attention to an attack and frighten the
attacker away.
The drawbacks of a Personal Alarm are first, that, much like most auto
alarms today, they might be simply ignored by potential assistance,
second, that you may be in an area in which no potential assistance is
available to come to your aid, and third, that the attacker may be
undeterred by the possibility of being caught or having aid arrive.
However, as part of an over all plan of resistance and self reliance,
i.e., in conjunction with a more conventional weapon for Self
Defense, a Personal Alarm to call attention to the situation as you
are employing other methods of defense is probably a worthwhile idea.
Despite this, you must weigh the disadvantages of one more piece of
gear to carry with you and learn to operate under stress against the
potential advantages of having a gadget do the yelling for you.
Most Personal Alarms on the market today are electronic and thus
require batteries. You should test both the batteries and the alarm
periodically to ensure that both are sound.
[Kopo Sticks, Self Defense Keychains, and Tactical Flashlights]
At the risk of having to enumerate every Self Defense weapon in
existence I have decided to include a brief overview of few of the
more common Self Defense tools people carry. The apparent motivation
for carrying these are that they are less lethal, more legal, or less
obviously a weapon than items such as knives, firearms, or Pepper
Spray.
Kubotan, Yawara, and Kopo sticks are essentially really short sticks.
Usually between 6 and 8 inches long and 1 to 1.5 inches thick and made
of hardwood, metal, or high-impact plastic, these are easy to conceal
and transport. These sticks are intended to be primarily held in a
fist and to act as a combination fist-load and striking implement,
either from a hammer fist, or a "top-fist" strike. Some have loops of
cord to thread through your fingers to prevent slipping or loss during
use while others have aggressive spikes designed to protrude from
between fingers or points at the ends of the sticks.
A variation of these "really short sticks" for our modern world is to
join them to a keychain. Thus, if you have your keys, you have your
Self Defense tool. It also gives the added advantage of being able to
use the keys as a flail while grasping the stick.
Like all other weapons, possession or carry of these "really short
sticks" is sometimes banned or restricted. Check your local
ordinances.
A new variation of the "really short stick" is the marriage of modern,
high-intensity, flashlight technology with the "really short stick"
form factor. While not a new idea to use a flashlight as a bludgeon,
technology has advanced to the point where brightness equal to or
exceeding a traditional 3 D Cell torch is now available in a device 6
inches or less long and as little as 1 inch in diameter. Not all
Tactical Flashlights are created equal. Light output ranges from
about 20 or 30 sight dazzling lumens, as an educated "minimum" for
Self Defense purposes, up to over a retina bleaching 120 lumens. The
advantages should be obvious. Not only can you still employ the
"really short stick" techniques but you can also temporarily blind
your assailant, all in an innocuous "it's just a flashlight, sir"
package. Surefire is generally considered the leader in this highly
competitive market but other manufacturers include Streamlight and
Inova. Prices for the top quality models range from about $50 at the
low end to well over $100 or more. Tactical Flashlights usually use
either a high-intensity Xenon bulb, which typically burns quite hot,
or a high-intensity LED (Light Emitting Diode) "bulb," sometimes
several in an array configuration. Xenon bulb lights are typically
less expensive but will use batteries much faster and will burn out
the bulbs while LED's are effectively "life time bulbs."
Most Tactical Flashlights have momentary "on" buttons on the tail-cap
and are designed to use two 123A type Lithium batteries.
It is possible to purchase Tactical Flashlights from Chinese
manufacturers at extremely inexpensive prices, sometimes as little as
$10 or $15. These tend to have lower light output than the high-
priced competition, though often still within the "Self Defense"
lumens range and often are missing features available with their
higher priced brethren. Further, quality on these low-priced bargains
can sometimes be hit or miss. However, you sometimes can get a useful
Tactical Flashlight from bargain sources if the fates come together.
If you purchase one of these bargains from e-bay or the like, examine
it carefully first and put it through its paces before you decide to
depend on it.
Some quick links on use of "really short sticks" and Tactical
Flashlights:
http://www.donrearic.com/koppostick.html
http://www.donrearic.com/yawara.html
http://www.4-site.co.uk/goshin/kubohtm.htm
http://www.yawara.com/YawaraStick.html
http://www.themartialist.com/1203/pocketstrike.htm
http://www.themartialist.com/nightcuttersd.htm
[Improvised Weapons]
A brief word about improvised weapons: These are non-weapon items in
your environment impressed into service as make-shift weapons. This
can be anything from the obvious such as a Kitchen Knife to the in-
obvious such as a telephone used as a bludgeon. Keep your wits about
you and note what items are nearby that you may use as emergency
weapons. Ashtrays, bottles of any sort, glasses, burning, irritating,
boiling chemicals or liquids, and any other creative "outside the box"
items could be used. Many improvised weapons will fall into the
category of "bludgeons" and will require some room to swing and a bit
of strength. Others could be instant slashing or stabbing weapons
such as a sharp pencil or ball point pen. Whatever the case you
should know that Improvised Weapons invariably are poor seconds to
tools designed for the specific purpose of being weapons. Yet,
Improvised Weapons can offer an advantage over being bare handed. To
paraphrase Rex Applegate, a famous Military unarmed and "Combatives"
trainer from bygone days, "The reason you're fighting unarmed is
because you were foolish enough to be caught without a weapon." Find
a weapon.
[Keeping Them Safe From "The Wrong Hands"]
A reasonable concern for most people is how to prevent unauthorized
people, usually children, from accessing Self Defense tools. Usually
this is exclusively, but erroneously, applied to firearm. Yes, you
should take reasonable steps to prevent unauthorized people from
accessing firearms. But you should extend this concept to all
dangerous items and tools about your home. For most items such as
poisons, caustic chemicals, razor blades, kitchen knives, electrical
outlets and appliances, and medicines this is a multi-faceted approach
of access prevention by placing the items out of reach or behind
minimally locking doors such as those using Safety First's (tm)
"Child Proof Latch" along with demystification and training to avoid
dangerous items.
This is generally sufficient for all dangerous items, including
firearms. Nevertheless, some people feel, or are required by law, to
keep firearms in a more secure condition.
You should be aware that any device that restricts access to a Self
Defense tool, firearm or otherwise, is going to make it more time
consuming and difficult for even authorized users, such as yourself,
to access the tool during high stress such as in a Home Invasion. If
you intend to use an access restricting device to store your Self
Defense tools while at home you should adapt your training to include
the extra time and difficulties you will experience necessitated by
the extra step of gaining access through the device.
The two most common access control devices for firearms are Trigger
Locks and Gun Safes. Trigger locks are, by far, the least expensive.
They are typically either a hard plastic or cast metal clam shell that
clamps over the trigger guard of a firearm and prevents the operation
of the trigger itself. Most do not prevent the articulation of other
portions of the firearm such as the slide, bolt, safety, external
hammers, magazine release, etc. Further, trigger locks are typically
either unlocked with a small key similar to that of a padlock or a
small combination dial like that on brief cases. Both of these have
proven extremely difficult to operate under high stress and are,
frankly, poor choices for securing firearms intended for in-home
Defense. Gun safes, on the other hand are typically much more
expensive but also much more secure. They range in size from a large
shoe box size intended to house only one or two handguns to
refrigerator sized safes to custom installed "walk-in" rooms. Gun
safes, like padlocks, are unlocked via key or combination. There are
a number of safes being marketed now with a push-button combination
entry. The idea is that you position your fingers over the four or
five buttons corresponding to your fingers and quickly "type" in the
combination to gain quick access. The push-button entry safes have
shown themselves to be easier to operate under stress than either the
key lock or traditional combination style safes.
[Justifiable Use of Weapons]
The use of any clearly identifiable weapon, whether "Less Lethal,"
Improvised, or traditional will be subject to the laws and ethics
surrounding such items. Before you carry any weapon for Self Defense,
familiarize yourself with the laws dealing with Justifiable Force in
your area and Subject: 10 - Deadly Force and the Force Continuum.
------------------------------
Subject: 12 - Involving Friends And Family
Why should Self Defense involve only you? "Many hands make light
work" as the saying goes and if you can get family and friends to
participate in Self Defense then not only you but also they will be
better prepared and protected. By bringing trusted associates into
the discussion you increase their awareness. You expand the number of
people "watching out" for each other, guarding each other's back and
interests, increase the number of emergency responders, and improve
the network of "trouble sensors."
[How to do it]
The first step is deciding who you want in in you "Self Defense
Circle" or whatever you decide to call it. Some possibilities include
people who you already trust such as those you trust with knives or
firearms or people who will be directly affected by your Self Defense
preparations and can participate such as spouses and teenage children.
You should consider whether or not these people will be able to
assist in "team" oriented Self Defense and at what level. Most
people are capable of being alert at the very least.
[Training Children]
It is never too early to start training children to be Self Defense
oriented. Children can, and should, learn that most of Self Defense
centers around being alert to danger and avoiding it when possible
and preparing for it when it is not possible to avoid. Children
particularly identify with games and with team efforts. Make their
training a fun game that includes "play acting" and activity drills.
Be sure to emphasize that they aren't just taking care of themselves
but that they are also protecting their family _by_ protecting
themselves. Let them know that they are important and anything they
do to keep themselves from harm's way helps the family. Give them
"permission" to act in any way they need to keep themselves safe,
even if it means saying things that they'd normally be punished for
or doing things that "aren't nice." _Raising Kids Who Can Protect
Themselves_ discusses this in great detail.
As you train your children, be sure to include them in your personal
and home defensive plans, at the level which they are capable of.
[Adults - Family and Friends]
Family and close friends can be brought into the safety team as well.
Don't be afraid that they may think you're being "paranoid." Explain
to them that this isn't paranoia, rather it is a kind of "insurance"
you are buying by thinking ahead. Ask them to review your defensive
plans and look for things you may have missed. This, at least will
garner feelings that they are being helpful. From there, it's a short
step to bring them into a more active role.
[Ideas]
Some ideas for communicating danger or safety in your self defense
group include:
- Special Knocks for Danger, Company, etc.
- Special Handsigns for Danger, I see a Weapon, Hold, Back me up, I'm
leaving, etc.
- Special words or phrases for I'm in Danger, or Call the Police -
useful for phone conversations
------------------------------
Subject: 13 - Suggested Reading
Self-defense Concepts - Ron Mottern
http://ejmas.com/jnc/jncart_mottern_0303.htm
_The Truth About Self Protection_ by Massad Ayoob
_In The Gravest Extreme: The Role of the Firearm in Personal
Protection_ by Massad Ayoob
_Her Wits About Her_ by Denise Caignon and Gail Groves
_Principles of Personal Defense_ by Jeff Cooper
_Armed and Female_ by Paxton Quigley
_Raising Kids Who Can Protect Themselves_ by Debbie and Mike Gardner
------------------------------
Subject: 14 - Disclaimer, License, and Copyright Notice
Some answers given may reflect personal biases of the author and
contributors. The answers contained herein pertain to discussions on
the rec.martial-arts group, and are by no means exhaustive.
The RMA Newbies Guide to Self Defense was created from publicly
available sources and the opinions of experts in Self Defense and Law
Enforcement as well as information from the creator of this document,
Kirk Lawson (additional contributors listed at end). It is the
intention that this document be a companion document to the current
rec.martial-arts FAQ. The author, Kirk Lawson, grants rights to
update, maintain, modify, and distribute this document provided that
you abide by the "no profit" restrictions detailed hereafter.
You are specifically granted the right to distribute this document in
any storage or display format including, but not limited to, HTML,
RTF, .DOC, PDF, or direct telepathic transfer.
You are granted the right to copy, store, modify, and distribute this
document provided that a) This Disclaimer, Copyright, and any version
history or creator/contributor attributions are included. b) That you
charge no monies for the distribution of this document, excepting a
nominal charge for the cost of media upon which it may be distributed.
If you wish to include this document in any for-profit publication or
to include it in any pay-per or price metered medium or delivery, you
may only do so with the express permission of the original document
author, Kirk Lawson. Basically, if you want to modify or distribute
this document for free, fine, go ahead and do it, but if you want to
make money off of it, I want my cut.
Kirk Lawson: law...@dayton.net
Additional Contributors:
"Fu, Ren-Li" - fr...@rogers.com
Eric D. Berge - eric_...@hotmail.com
Wallen - wal...@yahoo.com
Karen Nagai - nag...@u.washington.edu
Steve Gombosi - s...@niwot.scd.ucar.edu
Philippe Boudreau - pbou...@hotmail.com
Renee Warren - RTWde...@aol.com
Jeremy Graham - sodeg...@yahoo.ca
Don Wagner - dawa...@ix.netcom.com
"Phauna" - rebekah...@optusnet.com.au
Fraser Johnston - fra...@jcis.com.au
Karim Rashad - kra...@orbisuk.com
Sean Smith - seansm...@hotmail.com
Dan Winsor -
Karen Nagai - nag...@u.washington.edu
Darryl - umpo...@hotmail.com
Ken Vale -
Ted Bennett - Ted_b...@hotmail.com
Chas Clements - chascl...@comcast.net
Jerry B. Altzman - jba...@altzman.com
Gerard Breuker -
Ken Vale - k3n...@r0g3r5.com
Theresa ("T") - T...@nothingbut.net
Matthew Weigel - mcwe...@cs.cmu.edu
Matt Bernius -
Neil Gendzwill - ngend...@yahoo.com