Can someone help me diagnose this Black Knight?
scottfreestyle
The game powers on and everything seems to work, but it won't start a
game. It DID work for one single game after I bought it - I "Fonzied"
it and we got it to play, but after that, nothing.
The diagnostic on the CPU reads a 9. I replaced the batteries but this
didn't help. I have 100 pages of instruction books and manuals and
diagrams here - I am trying to figure all this out, and have a bit of
a handle on these things, but I am a self-taught novice at pin repair
with only two years experience. I am sure this is something simple.
Can I get a few suggestions?
alleycat pinball
i don't know much but if you just got it and it worked for one game
and now it's not playing, probably a loose connection? i usually
unplug and plug back in and the plugs on the boards and make sure it's
set to free play, pull out the fuses and check them with a meter,
thats usually the simple stuff? and where my problems normally are
Retrogameconnection
The game won't start if it can't find all three balls. Be sure the
trough switches are showing that all the balls are in the trough. This
is a very common problem.
If some of the balls are in the upper trough - that's ok BUT be sure
those switches are recognizing a ball is present.
scottfreestyle
scottfreestyle
somewhere but I don't know how to isolate it. I will do what you said,
and I am planning on replacing all the fuses anyway. There is a hacky
alligator clip connection thing in the place that there should be a 20
amp fuse on the power supply anyway. Heh. I won't let that remain
permanent, but I have no fuse to replace it with at the moment so it
stays for now.
Retrogameconnection
> How will I know the trough switches are detecting all three balls?
You can put the game into "test mode" using the switches on the inside
of the coin door. Any switches that are closed will be displayed in
the credit display as a number. You'll need to look up the switch
numbers for the trough either in the little handbook / op. Manual or
in schematics on the switch matrix chart. I don't have the info in
front of me... Sorry. I'm sure someone else will chime in with what
the switch numbers are... Taking the apron off can sometimes make this
process easier. When testing the switches use the ball to actuate
them - not your finger!
Bob in Phx
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys37/index3.htm#test
For system4 to system7 games, to use the internal game diagnostics, the game
will need to boot up into attract mode. To access the switch diagnostics,
there are a pair of switches inside the coin door that need to be accessed.
Here are the steps used to access the diagnostics on system4 to system7
games:
a.. Turn the game on and allow it to go into attract mode.
b.. With the coin door open, press the coin door Auto-up/Manual switch
into the manual position.
c.. Press the coin door Advance button. On system3 to system6, the score
displays should go blank. On system7, all the score displays will light up
with "0000000".
d.. Press the coin door Auto-up/Manual switch into the auto-up position.
e.. System3 to System6 only: Press the coin door Advance button.
f.. The game should now go into the first test, which is the SCORE DISPLAY
test. All the score displays (including the credit/ball-in-play) should
cycle from "000000" to "999999". If a particular display does not work or
shows the wrong values, go to the score display repair section.
g.. System 7 only: Press the Advance button again to pass over the score
display test. This will go to test 00, as indicated in the credit score
display, which is the SOUND test. Each sound number will be displayed in the
ball-in-play window, and played by the sound board. If a sound is missing or
there is no sound, go to the sound repair section.
h.. Press the Advance button again to pass over the previous test. This
will go to test 01, as indicated in the credit score display, which is the
LAMP MATRIX test. All the CPU controlled lamps will cycle on and off at
once. If a number of lamps are not working (and it's not burnt out bulbs),
go to the lamp matrix repair section for more details.
i.. Press the Advance button again to pass over the lamp test. This will
go to test 02, as indicated in the credit score display, which is the
SOLENOID test, and each solenoid from 01 to 22 (as indicated in the
ball-in-play display) will be exercised. Remember on system3 to system6,
coils 9-13 are usually sound drivers. System7 games will also test coil
numbers 23,24,25 (25 is the flipper relay, but 23/24 are unused in all
system7 games). If a particular coil or group of coils does not work, go to
the coil repair section. Note for the special solenoids (coils 17 to 22), be
sure to test these solenoids using the playfield trigger switches too. Just
because a special solenoids 17 to 22 work in diagnostics does *not* mean
they work in the game, as these coils have two distinct hardware triggers.
j.. Press the Advance button again to pass over the solenoid test. This
will go to test 03, as indicated in the credit score display, which is the
SWITCH MATRIX test. On system3 to system6, the ball-in-play display will
show the last read (closed) switch number. On system7 only, if there are
multiple switches closed, the switch numbers will alternate in the
ball-in-play display. If a switch or number of switches do not work, go to
the switch matrix repair section.
k.. Press the Advance button again to pass over the switch matrix test.
This will go to test 04, as indicated in the credit score display, which is
the AUDITS. The ball-in-play display will show the audit number, and the
player1 score display will show the audit value. The Advance button can be
pressed to move from audit to audit. Check the game manual for a list of
audit numbers and what they represent.
"scottfreestyle" <scot...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:e01f05b7-d08f-4103...@g25g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
scottfreestyle
Switch test indicates 18, 19. These are center ball ramp, left ball
ramp according to the booklet I have. Odd.
kbliznick
> How will I know the trough switches are detecting all three balls?
First make sure all 3 balls are in the trough. open the coin door,
push the middle switch to the down position, push the left switch once
(if nothing happens then push the other side switch instead), put the
middle switch to the up position, now press the left switch 4 more
times until you are in the switch test. Watch the numbers on the
switch test. These are 17,18 and 19, if you see other numbers those
will probably be drop target switches for the drop targets that are
down.
scottfreestyle
Yes! 18 and 19 show up in this test. I think I read the table wrong.
This must be the problem! Glad it is a common one. Can someone direct
me on how I might fix this issue? Should I jiggle or replace or clean
the contacts with something on those switches?
Bob in Phx
between the contact points, while you gently but firmly hold the switch
closed. A pass or two is all that is normally needed. You will see the trail
of grime on the card when your done. Then re-adjust the switch to close when
a ball is in the trough. DO NOT USE CONTACT CLEANER OR SANDPAPER OR A
FILE!!!!!!! The switches in this game have a layer of gold plate on the
surface. anything other then a business card, may remove the gold, making
the switch not work correctly. The switches stop working due to dirt and
grime. . Also, verify that the wires to the switch are in good shape and not
frayed or soldered poorly. If all of the above does not clear the issue,
Look a the connections in the backbox for that switch and see if that's
where the issues are. You can use an dvm set to ohms or diode test to check
the switch, but be sure the game is turned off!!!!!!!!
also note that there are some reports of a factory mistake were the switch
stacks were built with one blade upside down. Google it and you will find
how to identify this issue and correct it!!!!!!!
hope that helps!!!!!!!
"scottfreestyle" <scot...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:9fe2dfef-ef54-4c01...@l8g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
scottfreestyle
show, fifteen minutes here on RGP and the problem is identified and
detailed directions on fixing the problem are provided.
You guys are awesome.
Retrogameconnection
> Switch cleaning is done with a strip of business card pulled or pushed
> between the contact points, while you gently but firmly hold the switch
> closed. A pass or two is all that is normally needed. You will see the trail
> of grime on the card when your done. Then re-adjust the switch to close when
> a ball is in the trough. DO NOT USE CONTACT CLEANER OR SANDPAPER OR A
> FILE!!!!!!! The switches in this game have a layer of gold plate on the
> surface. anything other then a business card, may remove the gold, making
> the switch not work correctly. The switches stop working due to dirt and
> grime. . Also, verify that the wires to the switch are in good shape and not
> frayed or soldered poorly. If all of the above does not clear the issue,
> Look a the connections in the backbox for that switch and see if that's
> where the issues are. You can use an dvm set to ohms or diode test to check
> the switch, but be sure the game is turned off!!!!!!!!
>
> also note that there are some reports of a factory mistake were the switch
> stacks were built with one blade upside down. Google it and you will find
> how to identify this issue and correct it!!!!!!!
>
> hope that helps!!!!!!!
>
>
> news:9fe2dfef-ef54-4c01...@l8g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
> On Nov 17, 9:56 pm, kbliznick <kblizn...@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > On Nov 17, 8:35 pm, scottfreestyle <scott...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > How will I know the trough switches are detecting all three balls?
>
> > First make sure all 3 balls are in the trough. open the coin door,
> > push the middle switch to the down position, push the left switch once
> > (if nothing happens then push the other side switch instead), put the
> > middle switch to the up position, now press the left switch 4 more
> > times until you are in the switch test. Watch the numbers on the
> > switch test. These are 17,18 and 19, if you see other numbers those
> > will probably be drop target switches for the drop targets that are
> > down.
>
> Yes! 18 and 19 show up in this test. I think I read the table wrong.
> This must be the problem! Glad it is a common one. Can someone direct
> me on how I might fix this issue? Should I jiggle or replace or clean
> the contacts with something on those switches?
Contact cleaner would be fine and very effective for cleaning these
switches. They are not high voltage like found in most EM's. They
are low voltage and a little contact cleaner on a toothbrush works
great for cleaning up those gold contacts.
If 18 and 19 show up but 17 does not then that is the switch that is
not registering the ball. Clean and adjust it until it shows up with
3 balls in the trough.
The problem could also be at the connector on the driver board. Those
wires are easily pulled out from the connector. You could use a small
jewelers flat head screw driver (or the correct tool) to push ALL the
pins down on both of the switch connectors (the 2 on the right side of
the driver board).
The problem with the leaf switches being installed backwards at the
factory has been around for years. I have a Williams EM gun game from
1969 and every switch has one of the leafs installed backwards.
Generally it's not a problem but it can be in the trough where you
have switches that are held closed by the ball resting on them.
If you desire you can desolder them and take them apart and put them
back together again with the contacts facing the right way. But I bet
you find after doing a couple that you're not interested in doing them
all. If you look closely, you'll probably notice that EVERY SINGLE
switch was built with one of the leafs being installed backwards....
that would be lots of work!
Good luck on your repair!
Daniel
has a fine layer of grit in it. After cleaning the switches and
disconnecting/reconnecting the plugs - bingo. It works great! No other
problems so far. Thanks again!
Well, except that 9 in the diagnostic...
Retrogameconnection
So, the question becomes is it fixed because you cleaned up dirty
switches or because you reseated connectors which probably have broken
solder joints on the pins or wires that aren't seated properly into
the connector?
Retrogameconnection
Also, a 9 indicates a memory protect circuit failure, defective IC19
CMOS RAM (5101) or that the coin door is closed
Does the game boot up into attract mode each and everytime it's turned
on?
Does it save your settings (number of balls per game etc.?)
Is your battery holder corroded? Are your batteries good?
Is the large white microswitch mounted at the coin door hooked up
properly and working?
Daniel
> > So, the question becomes is it fixed because you cleaned up dirty
> > switches or because you reseated connectors which probably have broken
> > solder joints on the pins or wires that aren't seated properly into
> > the connector?
It was reseating the connector that fixed the problem. I'm sure
cleaning the switches didn't hurt. There's still a lot of cleaning to
be done.
> Also, a 9 indicates a memory protect circuit failure, defective IC19
> CMOS RAM (5101) or that the coin door is closed
>
> Does the game boot up into attract mode each and everytime it's turned
> on?
Yes it does go into attract every time.
> Does it save your settings (number of balls per game etc.?)
I can't check that until later. I don't know if it does yet. I will
definitely let you know!
> Is your battery holder corroded? Are your batteries good?
Batteries were likely fine, no corrosion at all, but I replaced them
anyway. I am going to install a remote battery holder next thing.
> Is the large white microswitch mounted at the coin door hooked up
> properly and working?
It's hooked up and appears to be working, I guess. It the coin door is
open it shouldn't start a game, correct? I will check this and report
back here. The machine is not at my location at the moment but at a
friend's house.