Varathane- What Kind to Get and Where to Buy?

[matt...@gmail.com]

Looking to to some clear coating for the fist time and want to go the spray on Varathane route. I'm thinking I want to go with water based, crystal clear gloss- but is there a certain name for the best one? Also- can you get this stuff local (Home Depot/Lowe's/Ac Moore/etc) or do you have to order it?

Thanks for the help-
Matt

[fordi...@aol.com]

What is worng with the genuine varathane brand avail at hardware stores? It does come in gloss.

You will get multiple opinions, but automotive clear in my opinion is a better choice today given the technology.

[matt...@gmail.com]

I'm not sure the spray on is readily available just anywhere, the stuff in the bucket, yeah. I don't have a HVLP spray set up for automotive clears, and frankly might be a little excessive price-wise for a Tri-Zone that is my guinea pig. I did a little more research and it does look like Varathane 200081 is the way to go I guess. Just have to find the stuff.

[Toro66]

On Monday, April 1, 2013 10:20:41 AM UTC-4, fordi...@aol.com wrote:
> What is worng with the genuine varathane brand avail at hardware stores? It does come in gloss. You will get multiple opinions, but automotive clear in my opinion is a better choice today given the technology.

Plus one on the automotive clear. Best product. Goes on smooth and is very tough. Only down side is that you will need an HVLP gun setup. If you don't have one, you can rent one. Best of luck.

[fordi...@aol.com]

Even with a cheap harbor freight HVLP gun, the spray quality will be awsome in comparison to any spray can style clear.

If you can borrow a friends air compressor, the rest of the stuff is dirt cheap.

[fordi...@aol.com]

Oh, I thought I would mention, somone on youtube found a spray can 2 part auto clear system to do a playfield. I cannot for the life of me, find the damn thing.

I read up on the product and it was high end stuff that car detailers use to do small professional repairs.

[caver]

On Apr 1, 11:04 am, fordiese...@aol.com wrote:
> Oh,  I thought I would mention, somone on youtube found a spray can 2 part auto clear system to do a playfield.  I cannot for the life of me, find the damn thing.
>
> I read up on the product and it was high end stuff that car detailers use to do small professional repairs.

Auto clear cannot be sprayed in a home environment. If this is a first
time project, Varathane is pretty easy to deal with. Yes auto clears
are more durable, but there is a lot of initial investment to apply it
safely.

I buy mine here:
http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-65289/Varathane%2C-11.25-OZ-Aerosol%2C/Detail

If you buys 6 cans, the shipping is the best deal going.

[.]

caver <ridgel...@verizon.net> wrote in
news:144a732c-43ab-4693...@ia3g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:

> On Apr 1, 11:04�am, fordiese...@aol.com wrote:
>> Oh, �I thought I would mention, somone on youtube found a spray can 2
>> p
> art auto clear system to do a playfield. �I cannot for the life of me,
> find the damn thing.
>>
>> I read up on the product and it was high end stuff that car detailers
>> use
> to do small professional repairs.
>

I have used varathane in the past. It works well. Durability is not too
good, it can blush (fog) very easily, not very easy to sand or polish.

Recently I did some clear coating with the new auto clear in a can and it
just ROCKS! Super easy to use, fantastic results. The can has a spray
pattern that fans just like a gun. I have a full compressor set up and I
prefer to use the can for playfields. Drys rock hard in hours. Sands and
polishes just like pro jobs and has that deep wet look.

I use a CA approved mask from Harbor Freight for $18 and lots of
ventilation. Long sleeve shirt, gloves, and goggles. If it seems like a
lot of hassle, trust me, the results are worth it.

About $20 a can with shipping. You have to use the whole can in 1 day but
I find 1 can is enough for 2 nice coats an a playfield.

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

Search youtube for spraymax clear 2k, lots of vids.

> Auto clear cannot be sprayed in a home environment. If this is a first
> time project, Varathane is pretty easy to deal with. Yes auto clears
> are more durable, but there is a lot of initial investment to apply it
> safely.
>
> I buy mine here:
> http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-65289/Varathane%2C-11.25-OZ-A
> erosol%2C/Detail
>
> If you buys 6 cans, the shipping is the best deal going.
>

--
Bill

[Richiep]

On Monday, April 1, 2013 10:15:10 AM UTC-4, matt...@gmail.com wrote:
> Looking to to some clear coating for the fist time and want to go the spray on Varathane route. I'm thinking I want to go with water based, crystal clear gloss- but is there a certain name for the best one? Also- can you get this stuff local (Home Depot/Lowe's/Ac Moore/etc) or do you have to order it? Thanks for the help- Matt

Matt, many guys will scoff at this but I recently did a water based Gloss Varathane clearcoat on a repro EM playfield with a foam brush...yes a foam brush...I'm horrible with spray cans and find them very difficult to get an even coat with.

The foam brush is very controllable, allows you to do multiple coats, can be done in your living room, leaves relatively little brush marks and after you wet sand and polish it comes out like glass....lots of posts here on the subject.

[matt...@gmail.com]

That PF came out pretty sweet RichieP. I am intrigued by that 2 part in a can. Seems to be no muss, no fuss, with the exception of the poison part. I'm really going o have to mull it over, but I guess its not a MM or a rare EM or anything like that, where if I screw it up, I'm going to jump out the window or anything like that. I have some project that I'd like to lock in my touch-ups- a Tri-Zone, Fireball Classic and a Big Game. I like fixing up my projects and I'm going to have to bust my cherry sometime. Thanks for all the input, and I'm all ears for any more that anyone has to offer.

Matt

[Frank Furhter]

Huge mistake for first time, nobody in their right mind is shooting
Varathane any more. Got two part auto clear (2K), prep nice and clean
it good, shoot with 18 dollar cans of two part and its good to go in
short order. Varathane looks like shit comparatively and takes days and
days of labor, and month or so to cure. Total waste of time.

--
The Frankster, a playfield prankster
Once upon my crank her ballpark shrank.
http://PinWiki.net, Prep-H 4 pinballers.
CARGPB #42 (Its free to join, sign up now!)

[jukehero1]

Menards has the Varathane in the spray cans.It's over in the Stains
section.


--
jukehero1
This USENET post sent from http://rgparchive.com

[matt...@gmail.com]

Well it looks like I'm going to go for the 2-part auto clear in a can. Man, I hope it turns out. I looked on youtube and saw some hillbilly spraying his rims down outside with no breathing protection or anything, the results were pretty damn good and he didn't die. I will be going the protection route and in a garage (with the door open). If this works I might be a clear coating sunofagun in no time. Kruzman in a can?

Any other users of this stuff fill me in on any particulars? How many coats and how much time in between? Could I do 2 playfields at the same time with one can? How long till it is play ready?

[bill....@gmail.com]

The SprayMax 2k sounds very interesting.

I have been spraying HVLP since last year. My results are very good, but the prep/cleanup work is killer. I spend the majority of my time doing those tasks.

I will be trying SprayMax 2k on my next playfield restoration this spring.

Approximately how many playfields can be done with one can? Is one can even enough for 1 playfield? I generally aim for 1 thin coat and 2 thick coats using automotive clear & HVLP.

Great thread!

[imcc...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, April 2, 2013 10:01:31 AM UTC-4, Matt Hess wrote:
> Well it looks like I'm going to go for the 2-part auto clear in a can. Man, I hope it turns out. I looked on youtube and saw some hillbilly spraying his rims down outside with no breathing protection or anything, the results were pretty damn good and he didn't die. I will be going the protection route and in a garage (with the door open). If this works I might be a clear coating sunofagun in no time. Kruzman in a can?
>
>
>
> Any other users of this stuff fill me in on any particulars? How many coats and how much time in between? Could I do 2 playfields at the same time with one can? How long till it is play ready?

A couple of years ago I restored a Schwinn Orange Krate with factory matched paint and cleared it with a 2 part rattle can clear called "U-Pol #1". This stuff is made in the UK and the finish was amazing! Spraying a bike frame is not easy considering all the angles and vertical surfaces but the U-pol sprayed beautifully, flowed like glass and there were no runs whatsoever.

At the time I paid $25 for a can but it was money well spent. Google it and you'll find a few etailers in the states selling as well as some folks on ebay. If you want to see some pics of the results PM me your email.

[Frank Furhter]

One PF, two coats. 30 min flash time on the first wet coat, the second
wet coat is the rest of the can. Standard PF, the larger PF on wide
bodies will likely need the first part of a 2nd can. In this case set
up two PFs for CC and do both at the same time.

[Frank Furhter]

SM 2K flows amazingly well, and comes in semi gloss and gloss. Do NOT
use the semi gloss, it is foggy at best and down right weird on a PF.
Go with the GLOSS only, and you will not be disappointed. The cost is
about 18-22 retail, and cheaper by a buck or so per can in cases of 6.
Most car shop retailers carry this product, and you will not be
disappointed if you follow the rules of dealing with ISO products. By
all means get a mask, and bunny suit, gloves, glasses, and hood (if not
already part of the bunny suit. Do not fuck around with this stuff if
you care about health, and if you do make sure you do it right.

[fordi...@aol.com]

It you set the field up on two garbage cans, and do it 100% outdoors you can skip the monkey suit. Just stand away from the overspray. A special resipirator is a good idea though. The results will be FAR FAR better than water based varathane.

[Frank Furhter]

fordi...@aol.com wrote:
> It you set the field up on two garbage cans, and do it 100% outdoors you can skip the monkey suit. Just stand away from the overspray. A special resipirator is a good idea though. The results will be FAR FAR better than water based varathane.

I agree and disagree. You have moisture in your skin and on the
surface, and ISO will be attracted to that moisture. Then it will
transport into your bloodstream via that hydrophilic behavior. Once in
your blood stream you are fucked as it goes for cancer because of it.
Definitely use a carbon respirator regardless of who's advice you
believe more and read up on it. The results are stunning, and the
mentioned 2K product flows very flat and nice. Shoot it outdoors if you
can, and do it with no wind, and low pollin/dust and move it into an
open doored garage ASAP.

BTW, do not drop, you will not get out what the finish picks up from the
ground even if the board lands upright. The finish is hard as freaking
rock, it will not play like a standard restoration PF, it will be
lightening fast and different. If you can do three of the same game,
which I have done, one with just cleaning (ISO 91% and Johnson's Paste
wax and heat gun), one with Varathane (never will do one again) and one
with 2K ISO clear coat auto finish. You'll be blown away at the major
differences between the game play and variety of play you now have in
those three games.

As an aside, do the same with different rubber from the different folks
selling the clay ladened shit they call new rubber. Then pressure Marco
to produce the good stuff and do it for a good price. The crap rubber
out today is total garbage.

[RookEM]

I'm definitely going to try the SprayMax 2K. Most of the screw holes on the playfield are raised, looks due to over tightening. Should these be sanded level to rule out clearcoat pooling around the posts?

[Frank Furhter]

Since they won't be visible I would tape around the hole (as a means to
protect, and as an indictator to retape when worn) and sand down the
raised stuff. It will indeed pool, however it won't likely be visible.
The shit is hard as nails when cured, so the less you have to do after
you spray (dry day, right temps, no pollen, no dust, no wood sand in the
air, no bird shit when you sit outside your garage, etc.) the better.

[RookEM]

Can I use liquid Varathane for cupped inserts instead of buying and mixing auto clear with an activator. And then clear with SprayMax 2K.

[Frank Furhter]

You can, yet I would not. 2K is ISO based, and it is nasty.
Be sure to be protected (skin, eyes, lungs, think you are screwed if you
don't). Spray some into a cup, you can pour it (tricky) if you have
enough and practice. They shoot the entire play field. My suggestion,
get some shit to practice on and find your 'groove'. Again, I wouldn't
do a varathane fill on an insert and then shoot with 2K, but then again
that is just me.

[RookEM]

That's what I figured. I'll probaby just order an extra can of the SprayMax 2K, spray it into a cup, and pipette it in or order some liquid clear and medium activator from the site listed above.

http://www.repaintsupply.com

[Andy_B]

I used a 2k clearcoat in a can on a Barracora with excellent results.

+1 on all the safety equipment - respirator approved for use with
isocyanates, eye protection that completely seal around the eyes (I use
an old pair of swimming goggles) and ideally a throwaway full paper suit
with hood. Regardless of whether you are outside or not.

Do not buy a pre-catalysed 2k clearcoat. Make sure you buy the type that
you have to mix up in the can by pressing a plunger and then shaking to
allow the clear and the hardener to mix.
The pre-catalysed are shake only rattle cans. My experience of them is
that they never go off fully even after months. What a pain that was!

Andy


--
Andy_B

[EM PINMAN]

My question would be do you buy the SprayMax 2K Clearcoat with the Variator nozzle or standard?

Also looking at the do's and don'ts of the video wouldn't be best to stand the Playfield upright on end to spray it rather than flat on 2 saw horses or whatever?

Ken

[RookEM]

You probably wouldn't need the Variator nozzle since the PF is a flat surface. You'll want to overspray to get good wet coats and you would want the PF completely level to avoid any chance of dripping or sagging.

[Bob]

I saw Matt's Tri-Zone in Allentown and it looked sweet! Next time I clear a playfield I'll try the two-part canned stuff. I have a HVLP sprayer but like the convenience of a can.

I used the U-Pol clear in a can on my EBD overlay playfield and it turned yellow after a year! Not sure if it didn't like the overlay or what but I'll never touch that crap again.

[EM PINMAN]

Thanks for the info RookEM.

I will most likely try SprayMax 2K for my first Clearcoat job on my 1975 CC Top Ten restoration as it is a Playfield with lots of wear and touch ups so if it does not come out perfect it is no big loss.

Varathane is an old product that has a water base and I'm just not convinced this is not the best way to go as it is water based and lots of sanding in between coats which is way more work than I want to do myself and the dry time takes too long with 30 days to fully cure.

I was going to try a product called "Deft" Clear Gloss as it is a lacquer based product so it goes on semi-hot bonding to the applied coats with no sanding needed except for laying down the initial base coat but SprayMax 2K looks like the best solution for the long haul and a very fast cure time.

Ken

[Frank Furhter]

Touch up, clean off, and shoot the SprayMax Gloss (not the semi).
It is 18-22 bucks a can, and one can will give you 2 coats per PF (or
about) that are wet, and semi self leveling. You can literally (*IF*
you don't have contaminants/oil/dust/whatever) shoot it and never have
to sand it. Its that good of a product.