But I have gone through all and every variation of pre bottling cork
procedure you can imagine over quite a few years and now I don't worry and
use them straight from the pack and have noticed no detrimental effect --
this being qualitative rather than quantative!
Hope that doesn't confuse you too much!
trevor
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Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
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"Franklin P Patchey" <REMOVETH...@talk21.com> wrote in message
news:bi5rrt$rha$1...@news7.svr.pol.co.uk...
Do you just put them in dry then Trevor? My problem seems to be that
they go in reasonably OK but when I try to get them out they have
stuck to the sides of the bottle neck. The corkscrew then just pulls
out the centre of the cork.
My husband has just bought me a floor corker which I yet have to try
so perhaps putting them in more cleanly may help. Could I smear them
with vaseline or something first so they don't stick? A silicone
spray??
example:- the ones sent to me.
Torrs Brewing Supplies
: t/a Hadfields 48 Buxton Road
: 89B Churchill Way Stockport
: Macclesfield Tel.0161 480 4880
: Tel.01625 423259
:
: Beer & Winemaking Supplies Peak Pharmacy
: 181 Chatsworth Road 540 Sheffield Road
: Chesterfield Chesterfield
: Tel.01246 279382 Tel.01246 454763
not to say you should to the address
Best regards Stephen.
"Pickle" <garlic...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a22d35f.03082...@posting.google.com...
One warning about synthetics -- at least SupremeCorq, which I used to
use previously. They are typically NOT easy to get out of the bottle.
They come out in one piece, but you'd better have a strong corkscrew!
I've mangled a couple cheap corkscrews on bottles stoppered with
these, and my wife sometimes has to hand one over to me because it's
too tight for her. Plus, you need to have a really good floor corker
to make sure they'll go in reliably. Other than that, they have
seemed to work well for the 2.5 years they've been in the bottles.
Cheers,
Richard
garlic...@hotmail.com (Pickle) wrote in message news:<a22d35f.03082...@posting.google.com>...
- Mark W.
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Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
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"Mark Willstatter" <mwil...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
<snip> <snip>
And I suppose now that the "upmarket screwcap bottle" is making inroads in
th ewine retail market then next step for home winemakes is to habe a
"screwcap former maker" to become available
Sorry for the long diatribe! but that is me!
Apologies for typos etc
--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
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"Pickle" <garlic...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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> ">
Stephen
"Pinky" <ta...@SPAMLESSblueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:baR1b.2732$IH3.24...@news-text.cableinet.net...
I'm comparing Guardian and Nomacork to the agglomerated naturals with
a disk of natural at each end this year. At this point they all look
good but it's way to early to say I like one above another. All cost
roughly the same (too much)...
When buying natural corks, squeeze them between your fingers, if they
give a little they are decent corks. If they feel like a hunk of
wood, there is a problem and they probably are not worth anything as
far as I am concerned. The one exception is the agglomerated, they
are pretty stiff to begin with but so far I have had zero issues with
them.
Boiling natural corks used to be recommended, but it's not considered
good practice anymore; if you are concerned about sanitizing them an
alternative that is kinder to the cork is a quick rinse and spray of
1% SO2 solution; if I do that it's in a funnel which lets them drip
mostly dry.
Regards,
Joe
rko...@popmail.com (Richard Kovach) wrote in message news:<d5715781.03082...@posting.google.com>...
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Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
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"nehpets" <ste...@godfrey7107.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
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> Hello there am i right in understanding that when you fit corks into the
bottles
> that you force them
> in dry. Think of all that friction, i find that its fare better to soak
the cork
> in boiling water
> first. The enables the cork to become supple and makes the cork fit
> correctly within the neck of the bottle.
>
> Stephen
>
>
<snip><snip>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pinky" <ta...@SPAMLESSblueyonder.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.winemaking
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: Plastic corks - UK
There is no forcing at all with the foor corker. I find insertion is smooth
and very nearly effortless. And my corks are correctly seated in the neck of
the bottle every time
I would never, never, boil corks -- it is a sure way to destroy its
integrity and make it a useless seal. There is also the matter of the corks
Thanks everyone for your help, Lisa
Thanks for the explanation. I went through a lot of mathematics in my
life, including at university; I also lived in the UK for a few years.
This is the first time in my life I've ever seen those abbreviations
used. It's possible I've just led an exceptionally sheltered
existence ;^) but my guess is they *are* British; if they're not, I
can't imagine how I would have avoided them for this long. Anyway, I
figured out what you meant. In my time in England I solidified my
grasp of "boot", "bonnet" (in the automotive sense), "torch" and
"lift", even became familiar with phrases like "oi!" and "dirty
weekend"; I'm permanently confused on the pronunciation of "basil" and
"pasta". I started calling eggplant "aubergine". But never did I run
into "2ce" and "3ce", here or there!
Just to give you an idea of stopper prices, my local supplier charges
about $0.19 (12p) for his best grade of cork, $0.17 (11p) for
synthetic - in very small quantities. But really good cork seldom
makes it into home winemaking supply stores, at least in this area. A
local winery where I work pays between $0.25 and $0.30 (16 and 19p)
for very good cork in quantities of thousands. But I understand that
for a very long, tip-top quality cork, some small wineries pay as much
as $0.50 (32p) or so. I have no idea how that compares to your
prices; I'm only saying that here, synthetic goes for about the price
of a half-decent homewinemakers grade cork and for well less than a
really good one.
- Mark W.
Ray
"nehpets" <ste...@godfrey7107.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:bi8vt5$1dj$1...@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
I have been in applied mathematics for 30 years and have never seen these
abreviations. Of course you would not see them in math texts as they are
mathmaics coloquialisms. I will say they are logical and obvious once
explained. I like them, Trevor. They would be more obvious if our
messaging programs handled superscript.
Ray
however perhaps we should get back to the issue, being plastic in place of cork.
Firstly you say that you have paid good cash for poor quality corks, what type
were they,
Composite cork, or which grade are they,
A, These are corks with top quality visual appearance - excellent surfaces, with
no major visual flaws and few small ones.
No holes or pores which exceed 2mm.
No cracks originating at the ends which exceed 11% of cork length.
No cracks in the body of the cork to exceed 18% of cork length.
All cracks must be tight and not open.
No horizontal cracks.
No worm holes, hardwood, belly spots, or greenwood.
Several narrow and shallow lenticels are acceptable if they are free of dust and
particles.
B, These are corks of good visual appearance with no major visual flaws and with
surface visual flaws of no depth or substance.
No holes or pores which exceed 5mm.
No cracks originating at the ends which exceed 18% of cork length.
No cracks in the body of the cork to exceed 25% of cork length.
All cracks must be tight and not open.
Lenticels and horizontal cracks must not open up when ends of the corks are
bent.
No Greenwood. No angled or deformed corks.
Very small chips and lateral worm activity in the middle of the body of the cork
may be acceptable.
Lenticels at ends must not be wide or deep and should be free of dust and
particles
C. These are corks of average visual appearance with one or more major visual
flaws which will be of cosmetic nature only. Thus they may be aesthetically
unappealing, but functional.
No cracks, channels, hardwood or belly spots which exceed 55% of cork length.
Lenticels and horizontal cracks on body may open up when ends of the corks are
bent.
Greenwood to 55% of cork length is acceptable unless severe depth or width.
Large chips are acceptable.
No worm activity from end to side which exceed 55% of cork length.
No dry years which exceed 55% of cork length.
There may be heavy, but not continuous porosity.
adding fluid
Secondly you say that your fed up cork, and want a supplier for plastic. Well
try the cork supplier.
Seeing we don't know which neck of the woods your from, it may be helpful to the
rest of the group
so that they may help you in this time of need.
nehpets
nehpets" <ste...@godfrey7107.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:<bibh79$qjd$1...@news7.svr.pol.co.uk>...
> No not boil, but soak there is a difference, and as for adding fluid
> there is none.
> If you have never tried it don't knock it.
> Have you sourced a new supply.
> Stephen
"Ray" <ray...@geminisi.com> wrote in message
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--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
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"Ray" <ray...@geminisi.com> wrote in message
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I do detect a slight symptom of which I often suffer myself -- as others
who know me on here will affirm ----- that of riding my high horse. Your
attempt at belittling the previous poster is trending towards the
ridiculous. I know --- I have done it myself on occassion
Let me say that I have been making wine by all sort of methods for over 35
years and I have also tried every conceivable method a dealing with the way
in which I cork my bottles. I will not try and list them here, but I could
almost guarantee that I have run the total gamut of corking methods.
I have always been dissatisfied with a most important stage in the
preservation of my wines and it is only in the last 2 years that I have used
my corks fresh from the supplier, without any treatment, sterilisation,
heating, boiling. This was on the recommendation ( as I have said in an
earlier post ) of a cork manufacturer.
I can only say that for the first time, in long years of various methods, I
am much happier with the end result of bottle aging than I have ever been.
And I say again " I would never ever boil corks".
--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
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"nehpets" <ste...@godfrey7107.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
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Ray
Let me say that I have been making wine by all sort of methods for over 35
years and I have also tried every conceivable method a dealing with the way
in which I cork my bottles. I will not try and list them here, but I could
almost guarantee that I have run the total gamut of corking methods.
I have always been dissatisfied with a most important stage in the
preservation of my wines and it is only in the last 2 years that I have used
my corks fresh from the supplier, without any treatment, sterilisation,
heating, boiling. This was on the recommendation ( as I have said in an
earlier post ) of a cork manufacturer.
I can only say that for the first time, in long years of various methods, I
am much happier with the end result of bottle aging than I have ever been.
And I say again " I would never ever boil corks".
--
Trevor A Panther
In South Yorkshire, England
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"Ray" <ray...@geminisi.com> wrote in message
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Hi everyone and thanks for your advice on this subject. Just for the
record, i ordered 100 plastic corks (made by Eurocork and identical to
Supremecorq) from Brewathome
Had a bottling day yesterday with said corks (put in dry) and my new
floor corker. No problems at all. That's definitely the way I shall
go from now on.
hi do this company brew at home in california deliver to the uk, is
this where your floor corker came from?
dan(uk)