Hardinge Vibrations...
Robin S.
I work on a Hardinge HLV-H manual toolroom lathe in the shop I work at. The
lathe's about 15 years old and in pretty good condition. Recently, the lathe
seems to be *wobbling* from about 1100 - 1400 rpm. It feels like there's an
off- center pulley on the spindle or something. Perhaps the lathe is just
resonating, but I thought I'd ask here before giving up :) It's not a huge
wobble, but it's enough to shake the dial on a dial indicator, and if I
place my hand on the headstock I can feel it.
Thanks for any help/advice.
Regards,
Robin
mull...@advinc.com
"Robin S." <lase...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I work on a Hardinge HLV-H manual toolroom lathe in the shop I work
at. The lathe's about 15 years old and in pretty good condition.
Recently, the lathe seems to be *wobbling* from about 1100 - 1400 rpm.
High range, or low range? Reason I ask, is, the HLV in my shop
at work has a similar vibration that happens on the bottom end
of the high range, and it only smooths out above 1000 rpm or so.
This never shows up at all on the low range.
I have always attributed it to the belts being old and possibly
worn or distorted. I bought a set of replacement belts, but
so far have not installed them, so I cannot say what the story
is.
I suspect somebody like Gunner could point out the cause, or
otherwise a call to Hardinge would probably put you in touch with
a tech who has seen the problem before.
Jim
Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/
Rich Williams
variable pulleys for excessive play on the shaft they slide on. Check to
make sure the machine is still properly seated on its mounts and is level.
Check the spindle for endplay.
Rich Williams
Robin S. <lase...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:YVP86.301660$_5.68...@news4.rdc1.on.home.com...
Robin S.
I just called Hardinge and they said to check the machine for level (the
motor mount and the bed should be on the same level) and they also said to
check the belt for cracks and the such. The lathe has been in the same place
for about 8 years so I think it's probably the belt. It has just started
recieving substantial use as we've been doing production work so perhaps the
belt decided to die :)
I'll report if anything happens tomorrow at the shop.
Regards,
Robin
BTW Jim, I use that Starrett mic in the shop - thanks again :)
mull...@advinc.com
"Robin S." <lase...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> so perhaps the
> belt decided to die :)
>
> I'll report if anything happens tomorrow at the shop.
Thanks, I would be interested to see if changing the belts (there
are two) cures the problem - this would be impetus to get me to
do this job. I think it can be done without a complete diassembly
of the machine....
> BTW Jim, I use that Starrett mic in the shop - thanks again :)
Glad to see it's getting a workout. Enjoy!
Sam Spade
Our Hardinge has a similar vibration in this range and its also about
15 years old. Quite annoying actually.
carl
Hardinge lathe. Tried everything I could think of: new belts, checked
alignment of sheaves, balanced motor armature. Nothing worked. What
solved the problem was loosening the motor mounts slightly and tapping
the motor around until the vibration went away. IIRC this is a
factory recommended cure for the problem.
Carl Wilson
Gunner
wrote:
Yup, this is one of the better ways to remove such vibrations. A
couple things that can cause vibrations in a Hardinge, Ill start with
the most likly.
(1) worn or cracked primary or secondary drive belts (motor side is
primary)
(2) bearings on the variable pully shaft worn (easy change out)
(3) Bronze center of variable pully worn and flopping on axle (convert
to direct drive unless you have a good supply of parts tucked away)
(4) bearings worn. Check end play and tighten up "nut" a smidge
(5) bearings very worn. Take out a second mortgage and replace
bearings.
A note here. On DSMS, DV59s, HCs, HLV-x, the spindle bearings cannot
be removed without destroying them. They are angular contact ball
bearings, and for the most part (Ive done it...once) they will come
assunder when you remove them. If anyone needs to know how to replace
them, I have a few tricks, and would be happy to share them with you.
But..you only get one shot at replacing them. Do it right the first
time, or spend the $450-750 for the next set. Its quite simple, and
you only need a pin spanner, a heat source like a paint stripper or
100watt light bulb, a block of wood, a piece of steel rod and an allen
wrench.
Gunner
" We have all heard that a million monkeys banging on a million
typewriters will eventually reproduce the entire works of
Shakespeare...Thanks to AOL and WebTv, we know this is not possible."
Sam Spade
wrote:
The real problem with the hardinge is not the vibration actually, it's
the fact that it is installed in the toolroom of a large corporate
entity.
Gunner
wrote:
Rather than your home shop, I take it?
Hugh Sparks
> A note here. On DSMS, DV59s, HCs, HLV-x, the spindle bearings cannot
> be removed without destroying them. They are angular contact ball
> bearings, and for the most part (Ive done it...once) they will come
> assunder when you remove them. If anyone needs to know how to replace
> them, I have a few tricks, and would be happy to share them with you.
> But..you only get one shot at replacing them. Do it right the first
> time, or spend the $450-750 for the next set. Its quite simple, and
> you only need a pin spanner, a heat source like a paint stripper or
> 100watt light bulb, a block of wood, a piece of steel rod and an allen
> wrench.
Could you post a few more details about this process here?
I'm rebuilding a 1954 HLV-B...
Thanks, hugh/csparks/com
Hugh Sparks
> In article <YVP86.301660$_5.681...@news4.rdc1.on.home.com>,
> "Robin S." <lase...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> I work on a Hardinge HLV-H manual toolroom lathe in the shop I work
> at. The lathe's about 15 years old and in pretty good condition.
> Recently, the lathe seems to be *wobbling* from about 1100 - 1400 rpm.
> High range, or low range? Reason I ask, is, the HLV in my shop
> at work has a similar vibration that happens on the bottom end
> of the high range, and it only smooths out above 1000 rpm or so.
> This never shows up at all on the low range.
> I have always attributed it to the belts being old and possibly
> worn or distorted. I bought a set of replacement belts, but
> so far have not installed them, so I cannot say what the story
> is.
I have a similar vibration at the low end of the high range.
I have new belts and bearings installed on the motor and speed changer.
I will try leveling the motor platform and/or shifting the motor
around and report here.
- hugh/csparks/com
Gunner
>Gunner <gun...@cyberg8t.com> wrote:
>
>> A note here. On DSMS, DV59s, HCs, HLV-x, the spindle bearings cannot
>> be removed without destroying them. They are angular contact ball
>> bearings, and for the most part (Ive done it...once) they will come
>> assunder when you remove them. If anyone needs to know how to replace
>> them, I have a few tricks, and would be happy to share them with you.
>> But..you only get one shot at replacing them. Do it right the first
>> time, or spend the $450-750 for the next set. Its quite simple, and
>> you only need a pin spanner, a heat source like a paint stripper or
>> 100watt light bulb, a block of wood, a piece of steel rod and an allen
>> wrench.
>
>Could you post a few more details about this process here?
>I'm rebuilding a 1954 HLV-B...
>
>Thanks, hugh/csparks/com
Ok. Here is how I do spindle bearings on DVs, AHC/HC, etc.
1. remove collet closer and collet
2. Remove baklite/nylon/aluminum handwheel (if equipped)
3. remove rear cover over spindle pulley (if equipped. Usually on DSMs, HC/AHC (it has two small
allen screws diametricly opposed. Loosen them up and tap the over with a soft hammer. It should come
loose, Put an allen wrench in one of the screws and pull while you are tapping.
4. The drive pulley is now exposed. Open motor compartment, and remove the nut from the elevator
screw on the motor plate. Lift the motor plate (heavy) and place a chunk of 4x4 under it, making
sure it doesnt shift
5. If the lathe has an electric brake, remove the two cap screws holding it down and get it out of
the way.
6. Remove the primary drive belt from the motor pulley
7. The variable speed drive yoke floats free. Push the axle towards the tailstock. Sometimes its
helpful to tie a piece of strong wire to the yolk and lift it up, securing it so the tension is off
the secondary belt.
8. Pushing the axle as far to the right as possible allows the axle to come completly out of the
left bearing, leaving a gap big enough to slip the flat belt out of
9. Once the belts are removed, check the bronze center disk for flop..often they are worn and will
cause vibration at high speeds. They can be bored and bushed.
10. Using a couple stiff wire hooks, lift the secondary flat belt from the spindle pully and holding
your tounge in the proper corner of your mouth pull it out the top of the headstock (well..the rear
opening
11. Remove the nut holding the spindle nut to the spindle.
12. Tricky part here. Sometimes the spindle pulley comes out very easily. Sometimes its a bitch. Its
Cast Iron so be damned careful on the next few steps or you will crack the pulley.
A. You can sometimes use the flat end of a crowbar, from the motor compartment, to free the pulley.
Careful where you put it! Make sure you get behind the body of the pulley! Any pressure on the
flange around the grove will break the pulley.
B. I made a puller from a chunk of 1"x1" CRS, with two holes spaced the diameter of the pulley, and
I use 2 pieces of 3/16 all thread and a couple nuts and washers to pull sticky pulleys. Place a
thing piece of wood on the end of the spindle, place the bar on the wood and place a nut and washer
on the end of each piece of all thread and get them behind the pulley. You can use the spindle lock
slots to get in closer to the center of the spindle. Put a nut on each section of all thread, and
tighten them down, using the CRS bar as the puller, and jack the pulley from the spindle
13. There is a 3/16 key so save it with the pulley. I like to buff up the inside of the pulley with
a Scotbrite so its a clean slip fit on the spindle.
14. The rear bearing is now exposed.
15. Use a block of wood as a cushion and thump the spindle toward the tailstock. It will move out of
the headstock, leaving the bearings behind.
16. Remove the spindle carefully, and place it in a safe secure place. Its hard as a whores heart,
but dropping it will damage the nose or threads.
17. Remove the ring from the front of the headstock. Try to save the gasket if possible. If not,
manila file folder stock is about the right thickness
18. You can now see both the front and rear bearing inside the headstock plus the preload cylinder.
19. Take a rod, extend it through the front bearing and tap the center race of the rear bearing,
driving it outwards. Chances are good that the race will come unglued and all the balls will fall
out, and down into the motor compartment <G>
20. Reverse the process, and do the same for the front bearings.
A. Slide out the preload cylinder. Note the Date on the cylinder. Its traditional for a mechanic to
put the date the bearings were replaced or installed, with an idelible marker on the cylinder. This
gives a good reference as to how long the bearings have lasted. Please continue the tradition.
21. Make a stiff tool from 1/2" bar stock, like a long! wood chisel with a 45 degree bend then
another 45degree bend in one end. It needs to be at least 2" longer than the headstock.
I have made several types of tools, and this is as easy as any to make.
22. Step 19/20 left the outer races from the spindle bearings in the headstock and the tool in step
21 is used to go through the headstock and push against the ball race of the opposite bearing. I
generally grind a sharp lip in the race, at 12 & 6 oclock, to have something to press against.
23. Put the tip of your tool through the headstock and place it in the flat you have made in the
opposite race. Tap it free, using the 12& 6 oclock flats to get it out.
24. Repeat on the other race.
25. Go have a smoke, have lunch. The fun is now starting.
26. Clean everything! Clean the headstock, clean the spindle, clean the preload cylinder, buff out
the pulley so it slips cleanly on the spindle. Cleanliness is paramount here! A microscopic piece of
shit here, can get into your new $500+ bearings and eventually bugger one of them up.
I tend to find a worktop close by, and clean it completly, then cover it with the disposable blue
shop towels, as they have minimal lint. Stand the spindle on its nose out of the way.
27. There is a weep hole at the 6 oclock position on the tool side of the headstock bore. Make sure
its free of crap. Blow it out with air.
28. Clean the front ring , make sure its free from crap and swarf. Make a new gasket if necessary.
29. Grab a soda, and inspect the front ring. Note it has a indexing pin. When you install the ring,
make damned sure its indexed correctly, or you will crack this cast iron ring!
30. set your bearings out at hand, but leave them in the wrappers. Make a clear workspace to work
in.
31. Using a magic marker, and the spindle key screw as a handy reference point, draw a line from one
end of the spindle to the other. The spindle key is USUALLY inline with the keyway on the other end
of the spindle, but Ive seen them 180' off.
32. Gather up either a paint stripper heat gun, or a lamp with a 100watt bulb that may be pointed
upwards.
33. Go wash your hands. Make sure all debris is gone, and your work space is covered with clean
paper towels or newspaper. CLEAN!
34. Open ONE bearing. Inspect it. Look it over. note where the "*" are, on the inner and outer
races. These witness marks indicate the most accurate position of the bearings (both pair) as they
were ground together. These spindle bearings are accurate to small millionths and cost a decent
paycheck, so handle them carefuly!
35. Note that these Angular Contact bearings have a wide race gap on one side, and a narrower gap on
the other. The gap looks sorta like "<". The bearing arraingement is ">===<".
36. Make some sort of mark with permanent marker on the narrow gapped side of the bearing, and then
put it back into its envelope, and set it aside.
37. With the spindle on its nose, spray it with WD 40 or the like, and gently slip the preload
cylinder over the spindle. It is Almost an interference fit, so its VERY touchy going on. DO NOT
FORCE IT. You may have to play with it for a bit before it will slide down the spindle. Make sure
when it does, that it moves freely. It will have the fine feel of a hydralic cylinder as it slides
and rotates. If you feel any resistance, look for burrs you may have raised in dissassembly. Remove
them gently with a fine stone.
38. Remove the preload cylinder, and set it aside in your clean area.
40. Take a walk. This is where the fun begins. Get all extrainous thoughts and business taken care
of. Go pee and poop. Relax.
41. If the bearings came prelubed, great! If not (usually) its now time to grease them. These
bearings are so precision that you must fill them ONLY 1/3 Full! Treating them like wheelbearings
will cause a good amount of heat build up when running. Use only a HIGH quality grease. Your bearing
supplier can give you a small amount (bring a small Clean!ziplock back when you pick up your
bearings) of the best bearing grease he has. Sometimes you can order the bearings pregreased.
Sometimes they come greased. Using the old palm of the hand trick, fill the first bearing 1/3 full.
Its not critical, but do your best to not overfill the bearing.
42. Wipe the excess grease off the inner and outer race with a CLEAN paper rag, then set it back
into its envelope.
43. Place the spindle on its nose, and place the front ring down the spindle, making sure you have
the right side out. They interlock with a moisture trapping ring. Place your gasket on the back of
the ring. Line it up and use a THIN dab of grease to hold it in place, with the holes lined up.
(index pin hole too!
44. Now its time to heat the bearing. You can use a bearing heater, or place the bearing on a
regular 100watt lightbulp, or use a heat gun. You only want to heat the inner race. Heat that sucker
up till its almost too hot to touch. Look at this bearing. It is the bearing that gives you ALL the
accuracy the lathe is capable of. make sure! that the wide gap is pointed down, and the magic marker
mark is where you can see it. Locate the "*" on the inner race. This is going to get lined up with
the longitudnal line you earlier put on the spindle.
45. Make a couple dry runs while the bearing is heating, Take an imaginary bearing from the heat
source, and sliding it down the spindle. Keep a smooth faced steel rod handy, about 6" long, and at
least 1/4" in diameter. More on this later.
46. When the bearing is HOT, make sure the wide gap is down or away from you, take a deep breath,
remove it from the heat source. Line up BOTH of the "*" on the inner and outer races with each other
and the line you drew on the spindle, and smoothly slide it down the spindle to the front ring. It
will be snug in a couple places. If it hangs, use the rod mentioned above to Tap the INNER race and
drive it down the spindle. Tap EASY. The bearing should go against the back of the front ring.
47. step back and take a deep breath and relax. <G>
48. Slide the preload cylinder down the spindle, (spray the id with WD before you start) and use it
to tap the bearing down all the way home. Lift the preload cylinder to make sure both "*" are lined
up, then draw a line on the top of the outer race in line with them.
49. Wrap the bearing in a clean paper towel and go grab a coke. <G>
50. Double check the bore and bearing recesses in the headstock. Wipe them out one last time.
51. Slide the spindle assembly into the headstock. Make sure your gasket is located, look for the
index pin to be lined up correctly and the weep hole lined up. Use the cap screws from the front
ring to pull the spindle assbly into the headstock and snug it home. You of course will have
oriented the line you drew on the top of the race at 12 Oclock, making sure the spindle key is also
at 12 oclock (this keeps both inner and outer races lined up.
52. Go wash your hands, clean your workspace of any debris.
53. Open and lube the second bearing. Same 1/3 fill if purchased dry.
54. While its heating, wipe out the back bearing recess of the headstock
55. Make sure the Wide Gap side of the heating bearing is facing you, or up. Align and mark the "*"
marks, and mark them on the opposite side of the bearing so you can see them (they usually are on
the small gap or inner side). Make sure your spindle mark is at 12 oclock.
56. When the bearing is hot, line up your marks, at 12 oclock, and slide it onto the spindle and
into the rear bearing housing. You will have to tap the bearing into the headstock Use a STEEL
drift. No brass/aluminum. Tap alternating the inner and outer races, gently, until the bearing is
fully into the headstock. They usually are about 1/8" below the hole (or a smidge more). You will be
able to feel the difference in the taps as the inner and outer races hit bottom. The outer race
contacts the bottom of the hole, the inner race contacts the back of the preload cylinder.
57. Grab a smoke. The hard stuff is done.
58. Install your key in the spindle, then slide the pulley over it. You sometimes have to play with
it a bit. Rounding the face of the key sometimes helps get it all lined up, then press the pulley
home.
59. Install your spindle nut. Tighten it with your pin spanner until it stops. Back it off, and
tighten it again, by hand. This helps make sure the rear bearing is fully home. Back the nut off
again, then tighten it "handy" plus a smidge more, by hand. It gets installed a lot looser than you
would think. Lightly snug, period.
60. You will have checked your belts for wear or cracking when you removed them earlier, so grab the
secondary belt, and slip it past the spindle and down the inside of the headstock. Open the motor
compartment door, and reach up the well and pull the belt down. Slip the belt over the spindle
pulley.
61. Install the belts on the vari drive, then push the axcle back into place. Release the yoke if
you tied it up. (be careful, it will be heavy when you let it go.)
62. Slip the primary belt onto the motor pully, reinstall your brake if you have one, then remove
the 4x4. Use a crowbar to lift the motor plate to remove the 4x4.
63. Turn the lathe on, and run it at a couple hundred rpm for a few seconds to get the belts seated
in the vari drive. Turn it off.
64. Using the adjustment bolt at the front or rear of the motor plate lift or lower the motor plate
to give no more than 1 1/8 deflection of the primary drive belt, then install the lock nut and
tighten it. Often the rubber washers under and on top of the motorplate adjustment bolt are shot, so
make a couple up from whatever rubber you have on hand. This is a good time, before everything is
tightened down, to check the rubber inserts on the motor plate hinge bolts too. They usually are
shot, but are easily made from rubber corks, etc. No big deal if they are toast, but helps dampen
motor vibration and noise. They can be replaced anytime easily.
65. Install the rear cover or handwheel, then your collet closer.
IMPORTANT! You must Run the bearings in!!
66. Run the lathe at 500 rpm for 30-45 minutes, increase to 1000rpm for 30-45, then 1500, etc etc
etc. Check the temperature of the headstock over the bearing locations. It will probably start to
warm up at 2000 rpm, but should never get much over body temp.
When you have run the lathe at 3000 rpm for 30-45 min. you are ready to rock and roll. After a
couple weeks of running, you can indicate the spindle nose for in and out play. If you find .001 or
more endplay, you might consider tightening up the spindle nut a smidge. This is easily done without
disassembling anything. NEVER tighten it up Tight, just snug.
Writing this took longer than the job takes me <G>, but its not rocket science. But cleanliness and
thinking ahead and planning out exactly what you are going to do, each step of the way is vital. You
only get one shot at putting these damned expensive bearings in. Once you have done it, you should
not have to do it again for another 20 yrs or so. <G>
Gunner
Gunner
----------
This email is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and
grammar enhance it's individual character and appeal, and in no way are to
be considered flaws or defects. Some settling of contents may occur during transit.
Gunner
While writing the bearing change Faq (any one who wants to make a FAQ out of it, feel free) a couple
other vibration sources crossed my mind.
Most Hardinge motor plates are suspended on one end by two bolts that ride inside a pair of rubber
liners in the cast iron motor plate. These often are bad from years of oil and coolant. Hardinge
sells them cheaply enough, but you can make your own from rubber lab stoppers or similar material.
Also the motor plate usually is raised or lowered by a threaded rod, with a "washer" under the motor
plate, a rubber washer, then the plate, then another rubber washer then the lock nut. They too are
often bad. But can be made from any rubber sheet scrap.
Remove the primary drive belt from the motor and run the motor at various speeds. If the problem is
an out of balance motor or drive pulley, its easily spotted this way. Most rumble or vibration
though, comes from the vari drive, with either a worn center plate, or worn bearings in the yoke.
Easy enough to replace or repair though. If you place a glass of water on the head stock, and see
vibration rings in the water, its time to look for the cause. If only tiny rings show.. dont worry
about it unless its showing up in the surface finish.
GaryH82012
I'll refer frequently to your post. Gary Hastings
Jack Erbes
Nice write up!
Entertaining and enlightening. Thanks.
--
Jack in Sonoma, CA, USA (ja...@vom.com)
mull...@advinc.com
gun...@lightspeed.net wrote:
> Ok. Here is how I do spindle bearings on DVs, AHC/HC, etc.
Snip amazingly complete description, which I printed and saved
at work today.
I will certainly consult it when I change the belts on the HLV there,
and also if I ever have occasion to do the bearings.
Thanks for taking the time to put this wisdom down on paper,
Gunner. I really appreciate it!
Jim
Hugh Sparks
>>Gunner <gun...@cyberg8t.com> wrote:
>>
>>> A note here. On DSMS, DV59s, HCs, HLV-x, the spindle bearings cannot
>>> be removed without destroying them. They are angular contact ball ...
>>Could you post a few more details about this process here?
>>I'm rebuilding a 1954 HLV-B... >>
>>Thanks, hugh/csparks/com
> Ok. Here is how I do spindle bearings on DVs, AHC/HC, etc.
Wow! Thanks a lot!
The HVL-B has a quill-type spindle where the bearings come out
attached to the spindle. The spindle slides out the headstock
nose. The pulley is between the bearings and must be supported
inside the headstock while the spindle slides out.
There are preload rings with face-spanner holes for the front
pair and rear single bearings.
I'm worried about getting the preload right if I need to
replace these...
-Hugh Sparks, hugh/csparks/com
See also http://hardinge.csparks.com
mull...@advinc.com
Hugh Sparks <spa...@winternet.com> wrote:
> The HVL-B has a quill-type spindle where the bearings come out
> attached to the spindle. The spindle slides out the headstock
> nose. The pulley is between the bearings and must be supported
> inside the headstock while the spindle slides out.
>
> There are preload rings with face-spanner holes for the front
> pair and rear single bearings.
>
> I'm worried about getting the preload right if I need to
> replace these...
I think you don't have to worry about that too much. Now obviously
I have not taken apart that many hardinge spindles, but I think
the actual preload on the front pair is not set by the threaded
nut on the spindle, behind them. The bearings are manufactured
such that when the inner and outer races are brought into contact
then the correct clearances exist. The outer races are pressed
together by the clamping ring on front, and the bottom of the
recess in the headstock. The inner races are brought together
by the clamping ring. But this is not an 'adjustment' per se.
It merely is tightened down til the races contact, and is (I suppose)
torqued to some value. I seem to remember gunner's instructions
saying this is a lot less than you would think.
All of the axial force on the spindle, I belive, is absorbed by
the front pair. That is, I think they act as a thrust bearing
as well. The rear bearing (at least in the lathe I took apart)
is designed in such a way that it is captive along the spindle
but the outer race floats inside the bore of the headstock.
On that spindle, it is a pain because there is only one nut at the
extreme tailstock end that holds the entire stack of inner races
and spacers tight on the spindle. This nut was a castellated
affair that is recessed inside the headstock casting, and required
a special wrench to be fabricated. I could not remove the spindle
from the headstock without removing that nut. Hardinge does
improve their designs as they go!
Indeed, thinkig about your photos, I suspect your spindle is setup
the same way. The buggered-up hole you mention in this photo:
http://www.winternet.com/~sparks/Hardinge/spindlePulley.jpg
is *not* for a spanner wrench. I strongly suspect it is for
the locking pin that holds the spindle still when changing
chucks. Hence the large amount of scoring on the circumference
of the shaft - this is the effect of pressing on the pin while
hunting for the hole for the pin to 'drop' into. All your
bearings are probably retained by the one nut at the gearbox
end.
Hugh, you need to say more than "see also" for the link
below. You have to say CHECK OUT THE AMAZING PHOTOS HE TOOK
OF HIS ENTIRE HLV REBUILD because the site is fantastic!
Don't hide your light under a bushel, the pictures are terrific
and a real help for folks doing this type of thing.
> See also http://hardinge.csparks.com
mull...@advinc.com
mull...@advinc.com wrote:
> All your
> bearings are probably retained by the one nut at the gearbox
> end.
Obviously I was wrong there. Closer inspection reveals
there are indeed two locking ring nuts, and that your description
of the hole in the pulley is right on.
Another example of hardinge improving matters over the years!
Hugh, I also forgot to mention that one can, I believe, simply
purchase new beds for those machines. I don't know if one would
be available for a machine of your vintage, but I *do* know that
whenever the HLVs at work are re-done, they find it economical
to toss the old beds, and simply bolt on new ones.
Gunner
I have only seen 2 of the B models before. Never popped one open. But Im sure I will. I just went to
look at your restoration site and I can only tip my hat, and Shout BRAVO! Well DONE!! Your clear
pictures and descriptions taught me a bunch I didnt know. Ive bookmarked your site, as Im sure I
will sooner or later have to do a repair or CNC retrofit on one of these machines.
Excellent job and one even a pro would be proud of. My hat is indeed off to you Sir!
Gunner
Jim is correct. The last I heard a new stick (dovetail way) was under $300 from Hardinge for the
DV/DSM/ AHC/HC models.
Gunner
>
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Hugh Sparks
>>In article <951etq$rte$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>,
> Jim is correct. The last I heard a new stick (dovetail way) was under $300 from Hardinge for the
> DV/DSM/ AHC/HC models.
Hardinge doesn't make ways for the BK series anymore. They
told me they sold the last one in stock about 5 years ago.
I had mine ground locally for $400.00. It is not quite as
good as new, athough it is <very> flat. Since this is the
second regrind, I doubt if much case hardening remains.
Someone told me it was case hardened anyway. Does that seem
reasonable?
I also got a rough estimate from Detroit Edge to make the
whole thing from scratch including the heat treatment and
and grinding for about $1000.00. I thought about making
the thing myself and then hiring out the heat treatment
and grinding.
I'm still fussing with the tailstock, but when I get things
together I'll have another big update for the web site on
testing and alignment.
-Hugh Sparks, spa...@winternet.com