DIY Cold Saw Project Pix
azotic
building
one. Foot print is 8" X 10", cutting capacity is 3" X 6", equiped with a DC
motor
gives variable speed capability for a variaty of materials. Vise is
removable and
replaced with a small rotory table for angle cuts. Total cost is about
$100.00 using
new surplus components purchased on ebay. Construction time is under 8
hours.
Pix 4 shows a test cut.
Ideas, sugestions, comments welcome.
http://members.cox.net/azotic/cs1.jpg
http://members.cox.net/azotic/cs2.jpg
http://members.cox.net/azotic/cs3.jpg
http://members.cox.net/azotic/cs4.jpg
http://members.cox.net/azotic/cs5.jpg
Best Regards
Tom.
Lew Hartswick
Very nice. That's a pretty precise stop you have in the second pix. :-)
...lew...
Jeff R.
"azotic" <azo...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:tvEPh.89088$ZA5....@newsfe15.phx...
>
> Ideas, sugestions, comments welcome.
>
>
Ummmm... a suds pump?
(I would've said "guards", but good-ole-boys would monster me.)
Nice work, BTW.
--
Jeff R.
Don Foreman
Slick!
Richard J Kinch
> Ideas, sugestions, comments welcome.
How do you set the downfeed pressure?
azotic
"Richard J Kinch" <ki...@truetex.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9904EE0D91C...@216.196.97.131...
> azotic writes:
>
>> Ideas, sugestions, comments welcome.
>
> How do you set the downfeed pressure?
>
Gravity seems to work very well, the motor and speed reducer weight
appear to be just right for CRS. Havent tested the saw on stainless yet
but i suspect it may need a hydraulic assist when cutting tougher alloys.
Best Regards
Tom.
azotic
"Jeff R." <conta...@this.ng> wrote in message
news:460f199f$0$5749$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
Soon as i run into a 16" frying pan at the flea market its gonna have a
blade guard, coolant pump
will be determined by whats available at the recycling center on the next
trip. In the interum a oil
soaked brush is being held against the blade via threaded rod and a magnet.
Best Regards
Tom.
Jeff R.
> In the interum a oil
> soaked brush is being held against the blade via threaded rod and a
> magnet.
>
> Best Regards
> Tom.
>
Hehe!
Cute!
Do check the heat on the teeth. I keep my Brobo blade flooded when running,
just to be safe. Don't want to lose your temper.
JR
marc.b...@gmail.com
> replaced with a small rotory table for angle cuts. Total cost is about
> $100.00 using
> new surplus components purchased on ebay. Construction time is under 8
> hours.
> Pix 4 shows a test cut.
>
> Ideas, sugestions, comments welcome.
>
Very similar to thoughts I was having during the last Cold Saw
discussion on here. Glad to see someone had a similar idea and the
gumption to prove that it works.
Very good work too. For only 8 hours it looks really well made.
Ignoramus26684
i
Jenny...@msn.net
>>> How do you set the downfeed pressure?
>>
>>Gravity seems to work very well, the motor and speed reducer weight
Very cool job. Just a thought though. What about turning the
motor-gearbox 180deg on that mount plate (move vice across) so you
have some counter weight, then add a pull down handle and you can
adjust the cutting pressure with a manly bicep as you go?? Besides
that would put the vice on the left of the blade where it might better
suit a right handed person? Unless of course you are a South paw.
I have been thinking about building something like that for about two
years when funds permit. I currently have a Porter Cable 8" miter saw
with a carbide-tooth metal cutting blade in it and a router speed
controller. It lacks good torque at lower speeds with the speed
controller.
--
Kind regards,
Jenny and her tribe of survivors.
Jon
ideas.
I'm guessing you got a good deal on the pillow plock bearing units, that's
one expensive hinge, otherwise. =)
I need to make a cold saw for a friend of mine.
Need to cut a specific wire shape, biggest cross section is about .18", in
bronze and stainless steel, mostly.
I was leaning towards an up-acting blade, with a screw feed, as the travel
distance needed is very short, and the screw would provide a very positive
control.
Also a micrometer stop for the length of material.
"azotic" <azo...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:tvEPh.89088$ZA5....@newsfe15.phx...
marc.b...@gmail.com
26684.invalid> wrote:
> Azotic, very nice, what speed reduced did you use?
When I was thinking about it I was guessing around 20:1 would be
nice. Depending on the exact motor you use (assuming 1725ish) that
would put you just under 100rpm. I was working with 60 as the low end
and 120 as the high end that you would want to use.
azotic
<marc.b...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1175435537.0...@n76g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
Most of the time was spent on laying out the bolt holes using a height gauge
on a surface plate. The bolt holes are size on size, i did this to keep
everything
as square to the blade as possible, no wiggle room for things to move during
assembly. All the holes register off of 2 parallel sides on the top and
bottom plate.
Best Regards
Tom.
azotic
"Ignoramus26684" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.26684.invalid> wrote in message
news:Y_WdnTRpMqS5JpLb...@giganews.com...
> Azotic, very nice, what speed reduced did you use?
>
> i
>
Boston Gear, 40:1 ratio, C-Face motor mount, hollow bore, it's new old stock
(surplus)
probobley mfg. in the 60's. I decided on new only, don't want any sloppy
bearings that
are usually included free with used speed reducers. Hollow bore allows you
to make up
arbors to accomadate a variety of blades.
Best Regards
Tom.
azotic
<Jenny...@msn.net> wrote in message
news:khkv0315dkaaop32v...@4ax.com...
I wound not hessitate building another one, beats the pants off any of
the PRC horizontal bandsaws i have seen.
Best Regards
Tom.
>
azotic
"Jon" <grom...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:ptUPh.2064$WL4.438@trnddc04...
Pillow blocks were reasonable on ebay, got all four for $40.00
You might think about building a gillotine saw for your application, i think
you can get
more accurate cuts than a hinged system. Flat steel base, two verticale
posts, two
linear bearings attached to drive mechanism, acme screw to raise and lower
the
blade drive mechanism. Easily scaled to any size you need.
Best Regards
Tom.
Ned Simmons
Nice job. If you're concerned about slop in the bearings, put an indicator on
the output shaft and load it in various directions with a bar. There is
probably some play in the bearings that you can improve on if it's enough to
affect the accuracy you're after.
The tolerance on tapered roller bearings, which that reducer almost certainly
uses, is such that if you need to minimize or eliminate play it's necessary to
shim or otherwise adjust the bearing stack. The factory probably does this at
assembly, but will err on the loose side to maximize bearing life.
Ned Simmons
LowEnergyParticle
a hundred bucks!
Dave
wfhab...@hotmail.com
Clever design! Nice.
A cost saving would be to use only two pillow blocks for the hinge, on
either top or bottom platen. The other two mounting blocks for the
shaft can be fixed blocks drilled, reamed, & split... no bearing
required.
Could you tell us a little about the saw blade? New, used, acquired,
fell-off-back-of-truck, HSS, carbide tipped, source, cost?
Thanks,
Wolfgang
wfhab...@hotmail.com
Thanks,
Wolfgang
azotic
<wfhab...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1175479294.9...@l77g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
The blade shown in the pix is a genuine cold saw blade, HSS. 300MM Dia,
2.5MM thick
32MM bore, 280 teeth. Last fall there was a seller on ebay offering them at
5 blades
for $10.00, the blades are reshaps and have several more resharps left.
Since then
i have purchase more blades on ebay when the price was right. I also bought
some
large diameter milling cutters 10 to 24 inch in diameter 1/8 to 1/4
thickness which work
as well as a cold saw blade. Ebay is a good source for blades at a
reasonable cost if
you have the patience to wait for a bargain to appear, my best buys were
BINS where
the seller didn't know what they were selling and listed them incorrectley.
Best Regards
Tom.
azotic
<wfhab...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1175479689....@d57g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
> Another question: Power of the motor?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Wolfgang
>
>
Motor is 1/3 HP. 90VDC. PM. i was concerned that it would be lacking
enough power but to my surprise its quite adaquite. There is no noticable
loss of speed even when i lean on it, perhaps when the blade starts to dull
this will change.
Best Regards
Tom.
Ignoramus6419
big shaft etc. An old garage sale purchase.
Do you think, based on your experience, that I could put a cold saw
blade on it?
Any suggestions regarding cold saw blade size?
Thank you
i
Nick Mueller
> Ideas, sugestions, comments welcome.
Are you left-handed? Or did you lose your right arm already? hint: That
thing NEEDS a guard!
Nick
--
***********************************
*** The lowcost DRO ***
***********************************
<http://www.yadro.de>
Sevenhundred Elves
Very nice, but I agree with you that some kind of guard to protect
people's fingers would make it even nicer. What if a sleeve gets caught
on the saw? Might pull the whole arm into the work.
S.
azotic
"Nick Mueller" <muell...@gmx.de> wrote in message
news:2280038.B...@yadro.de...
Yes a guard is being fabricated. Being ambidexdextrous has its advantages.
Best Regards
Tom.
azotic
"Sevenhundred Elves" <sevenh...@elves.invalid> wrote in message
news:axaQh.37747$E02....@newsb.telia.net...
Agreed a blade gaurd is essential. I did find some suitable sheetmetal today
at the scrap yard, so theres gonna be a gaurd over the blade tonight.
Best Regards
Tom.
azotic
"Ignoramus6419" <ignora...@NOSPAM.6419.invalid> wrote in message
news:P_GdnYGg-NmAnIzb...@giganews.com...
Should work provided the bearings are good and there is no runout on the
shaft.
You will have to fabricate some blade adaptors to accomadate the blades you
have available. HSS blades can shatter so you wanna make shure there is no
wobble, you don't want the blade to bind and make a mess.
Best Regards
Tom.
Ignoramus3938
Azotic, thanks. Would you say that there are some big advantages of
such a cold saw over a regular not too cheap chop saw?
i
marc.b...@gmail.com
wrote:> > "Ignoramus6419" <ignoramus6...@NOSPAM.6419.invalid> wrote in message
> >news:P_GdnYGg-NmAnIzb...@giganews.com...
> >> Azotic, I have a very sturdy looking 1/2 HP, 60 RPM gearmotor with a
> >> big shaft etc. An old garage sale purchase.
>
> >> Do you think, based on your experience, that I could put a cold saw
> >> blade on it?
>
> >> Any suggestions regarding cold saw blade size?
>
> >> Thank you
>
> >> i
>
> > Should work provided the bearings are good and there is no runout on the
> > shaft.
> > You will have to fabricate some blade adaptors to accomadate the blades you
> > have available. HSS blades can shatter so you wanna make shure there is no
> > wobble, you don't want the blade to bind and make a mess.
>
> Azotic, thanks. Would you say that there are some big advantages of
> such a cold saw over a regular not too cheap chop saw?
A good cold saw makes a burr-less cut plus even a high end bandsaw can
develop a very slight amount of taper when doing odd angle cuts. In
theory the cold saws rigid blade prevents that.
They also chew through solids a lot faster than my abrasive chop saw.
Now that I have my bandsaw its less of a concern, but the last time I
had a bunch of cuts it SAVED time to drive to/from a place that had a
cold saw.
Obviously in a home brew setup it depends on how precise you can make
it.
azotic
"Ignoramus3938" <ignora...@NOSPAM.3938.invalid> wrote in message
news:7N2dnYBY3to24Izb...@giganews.com...
Chop saws using abrasive blades to perform the cut generate heat in the
metal being
cut. This is bad news if your cutting air hardening tool steel or any other
alloy that
can surface harden if heated. Then there is the noise factor and dust
generated by
chop saws, a cold saw doesn't have these problems. Chop saws can't compete
when
cutting bigger pieces of metal, just for fun i timed some cuts and i can zip
thru a piece
of 3" by 4" 1018 CRS in 3 1/2 minutes, and i can repeat cuts within .005"
accuracy
which means i don't have square up material on a mill before i do other
things to the
stock, a real time saver when your cuts are square and parallel. Don't get
me wrong,
chop saws are geat for certian jobs and do have thier place in the shop so
if you have
a high quailty chop saw keep it around you will use it also.
Best Regards
Tom.
Jon
I have a full auto non ferrous cold saw at work.
Freightening thing when it is running, does a great job.
"azotic" <azo...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:zLYPh.117213$p17....@newsfe11.phx...
wfhab...@hotmail.com
> <wfhabic...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
Tom,
Thank you for your reply.
This item is now on my scrounge-and-build list.
Truly a fine piece of equipment.
Regards,
Wolfgang