Tired of changing your Superflash batteries?

[Frank White]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60126298@N08/sets/72157627638553474/



--
-Frank White

[landotter]

On Sep 12, 8:30 pm, Frank White <survivalbicy...@gmail.com> wrote:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/60126298@N08/sets/72157627638553474/


I'm OK with the runtime of four days, but they weren't ugly enough.
Good work. IMHO, however, the Blinky 7 is a better tail lamp. Annoying
brightness isn't a virtue, but side visibility is.

[Gregory Sutter]

On 2011-09-15, landotter <land...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hear, hear. I hate following riders who use Superflash taillights.

I'm not a big fan of the Blinky 7, though. While I have a bunch
of Blinky 7s, I've found them to be less reliable than my favorite
taillight, the Blackburn Mars 3.0. Several of my Blinky 7s have
gained the bad habit of changing their mode when I go over a bump,
such that if it was blinking, it may now be solid or off. Not a good
characteristic for a safety taillight.

--
Gregory S. Sutter "How do I read this file?"
mailto:gsu...@zer0.org "You uudecode it."
http://zer0.org/~gsutter/ "I I I decode it?"

[landotter]

On Sep 15, 6:45 pm, Gregory Sutter <gsut...@zer0.org> wrote:

> On 2011-09-15, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Sep 12, 8:30?pm, Frank White <survivalbicy...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>http://www.flickr.com/photos/60126298@N08/sets/72157627638553474/
>
> > I'm OK with the runtime of four days, but they weren't ugly enough.
> > Good work. IMHO, however, the Blinky 7 is a better tail lamp. Annoying
> > brightness isn't a virtue, but side visibility is.
>
> Hear, hear.  I hate following riders who use Superflash taillights.
>
> I'm not a big fan of the Blinky 7, though.  While I have a bunch
> of Blinky 7s, I've found them to be less reliable than my favorite
> taillight, the Blackburn Mars 3.0.  Several of my Blinky 7s have
> gained the bad habit of changing their mode when I go over a bump,
> such that if it was blinking, it may now be solid or off.  Not a good
> characteristic for a safety taillight.

Obviously, you need to run higher volume and softer tires if this is
happening!

[Dan O]

On Sep 15, 4:45 pm, Gregory Sutter <gsut...@zer0.org> wrote:

> On 2011-09-15, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Sep 12, 8:30?pm, Frank White <survivalbicy...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>http://www.flickr.com/photos/60126298@N08/sets/72157627638553474/
>
> > I'm OK with the runtime of four days, but they weren't ugly enough.
> > Good work. IMHO, however, the Blinky 7 is a better tail lamp. Annoying
> > brightness isn't a virtue, but side visibility is.
>
> Hear, hear. I hate following riders who use Superflash taillights.
>
> I'm not a big fan of the Blinky 7, though. While I have a bunch
> of Blinky 7s, I've found them to be less reliable than my favorite
> taillight, the Blackburn Mars 3.0. Several of my Blinky 7s have
> gained the bad habit of changing their mode when I go over a bump,
> such that if it was blinking, it may now be solid or off. Not a good
> characteristic for a safety taillight.
>

I run a PB blinkie 5 (rack mounted) tail light, and PB Superflash 2-
watt headlight. I use disposable alkaline batteries in the tail
light, because it's a bit of a pain to change batteries, and they last
a long time anyway. I use NiMH rechargables in the headlight, which
work really well for my purposes.

I carry a Superflash tail light in my messenger bag, which I can clip
on my back (bag tab) for poor visibility conditions like dense fog or
dark and rainy. The Superflash tail light will also slip into the
rack mount as backup for the Blinkie 5. It is very convenient to
carry due to it's small size, and also serves as a pair of spare
batteries for the main tail light.

[Dan O]

I might quit riding if I could never do anything jarring. Wham, bam,
thank you, ma'am.

That said, a safety taillight *should, indeed, be extremely reliable.

[Chalo]

Gregory Sutter wrote:
>
> I'm not a big fan of the Blinky 7, though.  While I have a bunch
> of Blinky 7s, I've found them to be less reliable than my favorite
> taillight, the Blackburn Mars 3.0.  Several of my Blinky 7s have
> gained the bad habit of changing their mode when I go over a bump,
> such that if it was blinking, it may now be solid or off.  Not a good
> characteristic for a safety taillight.

That's an unfortunate characteristic of lights that position their
batteries vertically, like the Blinky 7 and Superflash. Shock and
vibration hammers the batteries against the spring contacts until
eventually they lack enough tension to keep the circuit closed.
That's why I have favored the Blinky 3, with its horizontal batteries,
for a decade.

However, one of my customers recently pointed out that the clip on the
back of his Superflash had been pried out of place by accident, and he
discovered that it could be replaced at 90 degrees from its original
orientation. That's worth noting, because it cures the intermittency
problem. It does not allow the Blinky 7 to have its usual amount of
side lighting, though.

Chalo

[Dan O]

http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3019.html

That does sound pretty good. I suppose it might be an upgrade from my
Superflash tail light, but my Rack Blinky 5 has an integrated
reflector (required by law here in the dark), and the Superflash *is*
impressive (and I already have a couple of them).

As the light of summer wanes and I'm riding in more darkness every
morning, I have been very impressed by the light to *see* by (not just
to be seen) that the PB 2-watt Superflash headlight provides.

[AMuzi]

Many lights had bigger battery position issues:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9EIKImD83XI/TdDKqQHiF4I/AAAAAAAABIE/UskC8CZkjXE/s320/%2521BzGTo4wEGk%257E%2524%2528KGrHqUOKicEwRUSFuCqBMUeG-GPjQ%257E%257E_12.JPG

http://preview.tinyurl.com/3rmbtla

The teeny little (dim) bulbs got the bases smashed by the
pulsing C batteries.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[Chalo]

Chalo wrote:
>
> However, one of my customers recently pointed out that the clip on the
> back of his Superflash had been pried out of place by accident, and he
> discovered that it could be replaced at 90 degrees from its original
> orientation.  That's worth noting, because it cures the intermittency
> problem.  It does not allow the Blinky 7 to have its usual amount of
> side lighting, though.

My customer was wrong, at least for the Superflash I tried to reorient
tonight. The clip could be rotated 180 degrees, but not 90 degrees.
And it was a real bastard to dislodge in the first place.

Chalo

[Lou Holtman]

Op 13-9-2011 3:30, Frank White schreef:

> http://www.flickr.com/photos/60126298@N08/sets/72157627638553474/
>
>
>
> --
> -Frank White

Still batteries, no? I too got tired of those rearlight batteries so I
throw that rearlight in the dumpster and bought a rearlight which I
could mount to my rearrack and wire to my dynohub. Much more elegant
solution, no tape needed.

Lou

[Dan O]

any zip ties?

[Lou Holtman]

Op 17-9-2011 17:19, Dan O schreef:

Not for the light. Only for the cable. Zip tied to the rear rack and
rear brake casing. All stealth black.

<https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/LouSBikes#5409219548945819138>

Lou

[Frank Krygowski]

I recently built up a sort of retro bike (Reynolds 531 frame, Brooks
saddle, antique Sturmey-Archer 3-speed rear hub, antique NOS SA Dynohub
in front). The bulbs in the NOS antique headlamp and taillamp are
modern high-brightness LEDs. No batteries needed.

According to my wife, the rear is probably TOO bright. I've currently
got it tilted downward, so as to not blind those behind me.


--
- Frank Krygowski

[David Scheidt]

Frank Krygowski <frkrygo...@geemail.com> wrote:
:saddle, antique Sturmey-Archer 3-speed rear hub, antique NOS SA Dynohub

:in front). The bulbs in the NOS antique headlamp and taillamp are
:modern high-brightness LEDs. No batteries needed.

:According to my wife, the rear is probably TOO bright. I've currently
:got it tilted downward, so as to not blind those behind me.

It's a lot more likely that the optics in the tailight suck. It's
putting out a whole lot less light than an automotive taillight.

--
sig 104

[Dan O]

> <https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/LouSBikes#54092195...>
>

That *is* really, really nice (not surprising from your stable).
(Seen a lot of ugly implementations on other bikes with wiggly wires
running all over the place.) I appreciate the elegant aesthetic
interplay of classic diamond frame, round wheels and sprockets, and
gracefully flowing control cables.

[Dan O]

I hereby retract my recommendation of any Planet Bike headlight.
Yesterday as summer waned some more and the rain came down, my PB
Blaze (w/ Superflash) 2-watt headlight got water inside. This morning
I went into the garage to get my bike and the light was on. On the
way to work the damn thing kept switching itself between modes -
including off. I got it apart and found the rubber cover over the
switch was only partially glued where it should have been. The
general design is not very watertight anyway elsewhere (hence *both*
of my PB headlights have gotten water inside).

I got it dried out and working again; guess I will have to get some
silicone sealant or something and try to overhaul it pending
acquisition of a proper headlight for actual bicycling.

[James]

Electromechanical devices (switches, battery contacts, buttons, etc.)
are in the group of most unreliable electrical components. Power
supplies are also often unreliable.

Dry, clean, maybe silcon spray - but careful if you want to try to seal
it. Demineralised pure water can be used to clean, as it is non
conductive. Just dry well afterwards. Maybe some time near the heater,
or in the oven set below 50 degrees C.

My dynamo lights don't have a switch, for exactly that purpose.

--
JS.

[Dan O]

I set it in front of a little forced air space heater for a while
before riding out yesterday morning, which evaporated some of the
condensation (though only mostly within the housing), and *affected*
functioning - if only erratically. What with the light still
"sealed" (such as it was), the water that got in could not easily get
out. Once I got it apart (not entirely non-destructively), and
exposed to ambient air, the works dried out; the light is functioning
again as before - sans the switch cover, and a little gouged up here
and there.

It really does give great light, is small, simple, elegant... but if I
can't use it in the rain, it's just a fucking toy to bring out when
the sun is shining.

> My dynamo lights don't have a switch, for exactly that purpose.
>

I wouldn't mind a hub dynamo system, but don't want to fart around or
tolerate cheap, draggy, short-lived and relatively unserviceable
components, and ride too hard to reconcile adding expensive complexity
to fundamental working parts of the bike. I realize that's just me,
and appreciate the help.

[AMuzi]

Me too. Water runs from the cracked headlamp lens through
the wire hole in the bottom. Hasn't been any trouble at all
for many long years, always on.

[Frank Krygowski]

AMuzi wrote:

> James wrote:
>>
>>
>> My dynamo lights don't have a switch, for exactly that purpose.
>>
>
> Me too. Water runs from the cracked headlamp lens through the wire hole
> in the bottom. Hasn't been any trouble at all for many long years,
> always on.

I switch mine off in daytime. But overall, I've found dynamo
(generator) lights to be far more reliable than battery lights.

For a long time, I led a few night rides each year for our bike club.
We went years before having a ride where someone did NOT have a big
problem with a battery headlight. Those problems ranged from dead
batteries (at one-third of rated life), to lights simply ceasing working
despite good batteries (don't know if it was bulbs burnt out or bad
switches, etc.), to lights coming unclamped and falling into the front
wheel spokes (there was a broken rib with that event), to lights
exploding when the bike hit a bump and scattering pieces on the pavement.

I'll admit, though, that generator lights are more difficult to install.
There are lots of people who can clamp a simple battery lamp onto
their handlebar, but who can't get a generator aligned properly or wired
properly. And of course, most people can't build a hub unit into a wheel.


--
- Frank Krygowski

[Dan O]

On Sep 21, 11:58 am, Frank Krygowski <frkrygowREM...@gEEmail.com>
wrote:

> AMuzi wrote:
> > James wrote:
>
> >> My dynamo lights don't have a switch, for exactly that purpose.
>
> > Me too. Water runs from the cracked headlamp lens through the wire hole
> > in the bottom. Hasn't been any trouble at all for many long years,
> > always on.
>
> I switch mine off in daytime. But overall, I've found dynamo
> (generator) lights to be far more reliable than battery lights.
>
> For a long time, I led a few night rides each year for our bike club.
> We went years before having a ride where someone did NOT have a big
> problem with a battery headlight. Those problems ranged from dead

> batteries...

This is a big problem?

> ... (at one-third of rated life), to lights simply ceasing working

> despite good batteries (don't know if it was bulbs burnt out or bad

> switches, etc.)...

1) Not sure this is a big problem - especially on a group ride, and
2) Stuff happens; expect it; be prepared to deal with it, and 3) This
never happens to generator lights?

> ..., to lights coming unclamped and falling into the front
> wheel spokes (there was a broken rib with that event)...

Whoa, now that *is* a bad problem. Don't think it has to do with
battery power - unless maybe a well attached wire would have prevented
the light going into the spokes; although I'll be there are a lot more
crashes resulting from not-so-well-attached wires.

> ..., to lights

> exploding when the bike hit a bump and scattering pieces on the pavement.
>

Wow - not very bike worthy gear - certainly not suitable for my of
riding.

I've had two headlights fly off when I hit a bump. I think in both
instances I had failed to secure the catch on the handlebar clamp.
The first one was then run over by a bus and destroyed; the second one
came open and scattered head, batteries, and battery case, but was
fine after I picked them up, reassembled, and secured the catch.

> I'll admit, though, that generator lights are more difficult to install.

<duh>Do you think so?</duh>

> There are lots of people who can clamp a simple battery lamp onto
> their handlebar, but who can't get a generator aligned properly or wired
> properly.

Generator lighting systems *are* indeed, far more complex - with all
that entails and implies.

> And of course, most people can't build a hub unit into a wheel.
>

Is that just your opinion, or have you got data.

[James]

Dan O wrote:
> On Sep 21, 11:58 am, Frank Krygowski <frkrygowREM...@gEEmail.com>
> wrote:
>> AMuzi wrote:
>>> James wrote:
>>>> My dynamo lights don't have a switch, for exactly that purpose.
>>> Me too. Water runs from the cracked headlamp lens through the wire hole
>>> in the bottom. Hasn't been any trouble at all for many long years,
>>> always on.
>> I switch mine off in daytime. But overall, I've found dynamo
>> (generator) lights to be far more reliable than battery lights.
>>
>> For a long time, I led a few night rides each year for our bike club.
>> We went years before having a ride where someone did NOT have a big
>> problem with a battery headlight. Those problems ranged from dead
>> batteries...
>
> This is a big problem?
>
>> ... (at one-third of rated life), to lights simply ceasing working
>> despite good batteries (don't know if it was bulbs burnt out or bad
>> switches, etc.)...
>

3) This
> never happens to generator lights?

Mine has no batteries or switch. I haven't yet been able to destroy the
LEDs, and their life expectancy is many many years, given the frequency
of use and that the heatsink assures little thermal stress, and that the
electrical design ensures little electrical stress.

>> ..., to lights coming unclamped and falling into the front
>> wheel spokes (there was a broken rib with that event)...
>
> Whoa, now that *is* a bad problem. Don't think it has to do with
> battery power - unless maybe a well attached wire would have prevented
> the light going into the spokes; although I'll be there are a lot more
> crashes resulting from not-so-well-attached wires.

My headlight mount is two piece. One part is permanently attached to
the handlebars via two thick cable ties. The other part (with the LEDs)
simply slots in. It's never come off in service. It can't go far
anyway because it's attached by a cable. I leave the handlebar mount on
the bike during races, just remove the light and dynamo.

>> ..., to lights
>> exploding when the bike hit a bump and scattering pieces on the pavement.
>>
>
> Wow - not very bike worthy gear - certainly not suitable for my of
> riding.
>
> I've had two headlights fly off when I hit a bump. I think in both
> instances I had failed to secure the catch on the handlebar clamp.
> The first one was then run over by a bus and destroyed; the second one
> came open and scattered head, batteries, and battery case, but was
> fine after I picked them up, reassembled, and secured the catch.
>
>> I'll admit, though, that generator lights are more difficult to install.
>
> <duh>Do you think so?</duh>

Maybe more difficult, but not extraordinarily so. Mine has a single 5mm
bolt attaching the dynamo to the rear brake assy. It takes all of 5
minutes to put on or take off. I just loosely wind the electric cable
around the rear brake cable, that runs along the top tube, to the front
of the bike where the light is.

The only caveat is that tyres with lots of tread (i.e. knobby MTB tyres)
don't work well with the Sanyo Dynapower.

>> There are lots of people who can clamp a simple battery lamp onto
>> their handlebar, but who can't get a generator aligned properly or wired
>> properly.
>
> Generator lighting systems *are* indeed, far more complex - with all
> that entails and implies.

Another difficulty is that many racing frames that people buy are not
designed for any extra bits, and the handlebars become the only place a
light can go.

--
JS

[Dan O]

Like I said, the PB shit is just that. (Too bad - it wouldn't take
much in terms of care and quality of crafstmanship to make it all
right, but commercial economics rule the friggin' world.) I am making
do until I can get a real headlight from PW (not Pee-Wee).

I want a hub dyno - a good one. I can buid a wheel and install and
maintain it. A very expensive proposition, though, and much more
complex than a simple hub that turns on the axle. I ride hard (very
hard), so these are considerations.

Thanks for the reasonable, respectful, non-judgmental discussion and
benefit of your experience. That's what it's all about (not the hokey-
pokey).

[Lou Holtman]

On 22 sep, 04:49, Dan O <danover...@gmail.com> wrote:

> > Another difficulty is that many racing frames that people buy are not
> > designed for any extra bits, and the handlebars become the only place a
> > light can go.

Stem mounted headlights are available. Nice clean solution.

> I want a hub dyno - a good one.  I can buid a wheel and install and
> maintain it.  A very expensive proposition, though, and much more
> complex than a simple hub that turns on the axle.  I ride hard (very
> hard), so these are considerations.

I really don't understand why a hub dyno is much more complex. I agree
with you that if you want to go that way look for a good one. Good
ones are incredible reliable.
As a hardcore commuter I think you should consider/deserve/benifit
from a good quality dynohub based light system. As you said it is not
cheap, but it is worth saving for in your situation I think.

Good luck,

Lou

[Frank Krygowski]

Dan O wrote:
> On Sep 21, 11:58 am, Frank Krygowski<frkrygowREM...@gEEmail.com>
> wrote:
>>
>> For a long time, I led a few night rides each year for our bike club.
>> We went years before having a ride where someone did NOT have a big
>> problem with a battery headlight. Those problems ranged from dead
>> batteries...
>
> This is a big problem?

Yes, powering a battery light from a dead battery is a big problem.

>> ... (at one-third of rated life), to lights simply ceasing working
>> despite good batteries (don't know if it was bulbs burnt out or bad
>> switches, etc.)...
>

> 1) Not sure this is a big problem - especially on a group ride...

That's nonsense. Motorists don't rely on having other cars with working
lights to show them the way. Bicyclists shouldn't do that either.
Don't pretend your bike is merely a toy, that doesn't need reliable lights.

> 2) Stuff happens; expect it; be prepared to deal with it...

Sure. But I think it's smarter to first, choose equipment that greatly
reduces the "stuff" that happens.

> 3) This never happens to generator lights?

In my experience, it's much, much less common with generator lights.
I'll also remind you that in a survey of Paris-Brest-Paris riders a
couple years ago, the generator light users were far more satisfied with
their lighting systems than the battery light users. You can probably
find the article by searching the Bicycle Quarterly website.

>> ..., to lights coming unclamped and falling into the front
>> wheel spokes (there was a broken rib with that event)...
>
> Whoa, now that *is* a bad problem. Don't think it has to do with
> battery power - unless maybe a well attached wire would have prevented
> the light going into the spokes;

Generator lights are almost always bolted in place. That's more
reliable than quick-release clamps. I've never, ever seen a generator
light come off its mount during a ride.

>> ..., to lights
>> exploding when the bike hit a bump and scattering pieces on the pavement.
>>
> Wow - not very bike worthy gear - certainly not suitable for my of
> riding.
>
> I've had two headlights fly off when I hit a bump. I think in both
> instances I had failed to secure the catch on the handlebar clamp.

Exactly. I believe this is far more common with battery lights, because
battery lights are intended to be quickly clipped on and quickly
removed. Bolts are more reliable than clips and clamps.

>> I'll admit, though, that generator lights are more difficult to install.
>
> <duh>Do you think so?</duh>

Yes, Dan. I'm surprised you have to ask.

>> There are lots of people who can clamp a simple battery lamp onto
>> their handlebar, but who can't get a generator aligned properly or wired
>> properly.
>
> Generator lighting systems *are* indeed, far more complex - with all
> that entails and implies.

They're more complex to manufacture. They're a bit more difficult to
install. (People here sometimes forget that many bicyclists have almost
no skill with tools and mechanical objects.) Once installed, generator
systems are more reliable and require far less maintenance, so from the
viewpoint of the owner, operational complexity is less.

I'll note that even dedicated generator skeptic Stephen M. Scharf put a
generator light on his daughter's bike. He spent years telling us
generators were no good. But when it came to protecting his offspring,
he abandoned his harangue and went with what was more reliable and safer.

>> And of course, most people can't build a hub unit into a wheel.
>>
>
> Is that just your opinion, or have you got data.

Oh good grief...

Do you _seriously_ think most people can build a bicycle wheel??


--
- Frank Krygowski

[James]

Lou Holtman wrote:
> On 22 sep, 04:49, Dan O <danover...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>> Another difficulty is that many racing frames that people buy are not
>>> designed for any extra bits, and the handlebars become the only place a
>>> light can go.
>
> Stem mounted headlights are available. Nice clean solution.

That's where my Garmin fits ;-)

--
JS.

[Lou Holtman]

Op 22-9-2011 23:30, James schreef:

When I need my Garmin I don't need lights and vica versa. If I want to
log my ride riding in the dark I put my Garmin in my back pocket or use
my forerunner 310XT on my wrist.
Just geared up one of my bikes for the comming dark season: put in the
dynohub wheel and mounted my headlight. Till now I used a battery
powered taillight but I just ordered the matching dynohub powered
taillight. After installing it next week I am ready for the dark season.
No fuzzing with batteries anymore even on my funbike.


<https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/Misc#5655517751444757010>

Lou

[Dan O]

On Sep 22, 12:41 am, Lou Holtman <lou.holt...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 22 sep, 04:49, Dan O <danover...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > Another difficulty is that many racing frames that people buy are not
> > > designed for any extra bits, and the handlebars become the only place a
> > > light can go.
>
> Stem mounted headlights are available. Nice clean solution.
>
> > I want a hub dyno - a good one. I can buid a wheel and install and
> > maintain it. A very expensive proposition, though, and much more
> > complex than a simple hub that turns on the axle. I ride hard (very
> > hard), so these are considerations.
>
> I really don't understand why a hub dyno is much more complex.

Axle / hub shell / bearings (how elegabtly simple is *that*?) vs.
axle / hub / bearings *plus* whatever all the discrete parts of a
generator (I don't know what all they are, but probably *more*
discrete parts - with tolerances of their own - than the hub itself
[?]). And I've heard stories of the hassles of cheap dynohubs.

> I agree
> with you that if you want to go that way look for a good one. Good
> ones are incredible reliable.

Yes, I have lived long enough to know that the aggravation (and worse)
of compromised quality can be many times more costly than just paying
for what will better / best meet your requirements in the first
place. People are amazingly adaptable - able compromise their
requirements, rationalize limitations, tolerate and/or suppress
aggravation to accept limitations.

I am the type of person who would be bothered just *knowing* that my
wheel was dragging more than it had to. I'm working on this, but
don't expect to change completely - don't think I want to anyway.

I ride the crap out of my bike. I crank out the miles rolling down
the road, yes - but am not at all content to leave it at that, and
ride it all over creation on and off the road - catching air
regularly. I cannot afford to compromise robustness.

> As a hardcore commuter I think you should consider/deserve/benifit
> from a good quality dynohub based light system.

I have posted here many, many times that I would like to try a good
dyno hub lighting system. I believe I do "deserve" it, too - at least
in terms of having paid my dues in miles/hours/work - and do
absolutely perceive the significant potential benefit.

> As you said it is not
> cheap, but it is worth saving for in your situation I think.
>

I have trouble saving enough for groceries month-to-month. My watch
band broke earlier this month, and I did manage to buy a replacement
before back-to-school spending left me unable to pay the jeweler to
size it for me, so have that on the agenda for right after payday.
Somehow, though... I am 90% sure I will eventually be posting about my
experiences with real bike lighting.

> Good luck,
>

Thanks!

[Dan O]

.MONDAY...RAIN. HIGHS 65 TO 70. SOUTH WIND 5 TO 15 MPH. CHANCE OF
RAIN 80 PERCENT.
.MONDAY NIGHT...RAIN. LOWS AROUND 55. CHANCE OF RAIN 80 PERCENT.

Great. Still a week before payday, too. Guess I'll have to try and
get creative with the silicone and Saran wrap.

[James]

Lou Holtman wrote:
> Op 22-9-2011 23:30, James schreef:
>> Lou Holtman wrote:
>>> On 22 sep, 04:49, Dan O <danover...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Another difficulty is that many racing frames that people buy are not
>>>>> designed for any extra bits, and the handlebars become the only
>>>>> place a
>>>>> light can go.
>>>
>>> Stem mounted headlights are available. Nice clean solution.
>>
>> That's where my Garmin fits ;-)
>>
>
>
> When I need my Garmin I don't need lights and vica versa. If I want to
> log my ride riding in the dark I put my Garmin in my back pocket or use
> my forerunner 310XT on my wrist.

I don't look at the bike computer regularly, but I do glance from time
to time, even at night, often when stopped at lights. Thankfully it has
a backlight.

As an aside, I was riding over Mt Dandenong on Saturday morning. I
noticed the speed reading was quite variable. With the large trees and
overhanging branches, the speed was probably +/-3 km/h of actual on the
way up, and coming down I saw 38km/h, then 44km/h then 53 km/h - all
within a few moments when I'm sure my speed didn't vary more than a few
km/h at most.

The view of satellites isn't so good down under.

> Just geared up one of my bikes for the comming dark season: put in the
> dynohub wheel and mounted my headlight. Till now I used a battery
> powered taillight but I just ordered the matching dynohub powered
> taillight. After installing it next week I am ready for the dark season.
> No fuzzing with batteries anymore even on my funbike.
>
>
> <https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/Misc#5655517751444757010>

Cool! I've had the same rear light for about 12 years (a guess).
Despite the batteries being oriented vertically, it's not been a
problem. To prove to a fellow that water was not a problem, I opened it
and dropped it into a bucket of water while it was going. The blink
rate went funny, but after I retrieved it and gave it a gently shake, it
resumed normal operation as I expected. I like it. It's more robust
than more modern ones I've seen, although perhaps not as bright - but
bright enough.

--
JS.

[James]

Phil W Lee wrote:
> James <james.e...@gmail.com> considered Mon, 26 Sep 2011 07:37:21

> It's often not the water itself that causes the problems, but the
> corrosion that it encourages.
> Pure water isn't as bad as salty, for that reason.
> So I hope you gave your light a good chance to dry properly after the
> demonstration, before putting it all back together.

It was rain water from a tank. Probably slightly acid. pH 6?

Water with ions can make electronics play up, especially those that
operate on small currents or with high voltages. Current leakage
through the water causes temporary problems.

The seals are not good enough in the light to stop road water getting
in, but it is not salty here either.

The internals are not corroded. Perhaps a good conformal coating was
applied.

The bucket of water test would be a good test for bicycle lights. You
know, if a switch has a 100k pull up to the uP, and salty water gets
into the switch, it might change mode of operation just through leakage
current between the open contacts!

--
JS.

[Frank Krygowski]

Phil W Lee wrote:
>
> It's often not the water itself that causes the problems, but the
> corrosion that it encourages.
> Pure water isn't as bad as salty, for that reason.

In my experience, the most common problem with battery operated hardware
(including, but not limited to battery bike lights) is corrosion at
battery contacts. Next most common is corrosion at switch contacts.

I've had pretty good luck retarding such corrosion by first cleaning the
vulnerable surfaces, then smearing a thin layer of Vaseline petroleum
jelly over them.

The last device that responded to this was a pretty generic rear blinky
light that stopped responding to its switch. Disassembling the switch
was a puzzle, but once solved, the clean+Vaseline routine worked yet again.

I don't know for sure, but I think this might help water resistance as
well, by preventing water shorting of switch contacts.

--
- Frank Krygowski

[Dan O]

Forecast has changed:

GFS REMAINS FASTEST AT BRINGING IN THE NEXT SYSTEM LATE TONIGHT
AND
MON...WITH THE SURFACE LOW TRACKING A LITTLE S OF OTHER MODELS.
PREFER TO LEAN TOWARDS THE MORE CONSISTENT AND SLOWER NAM/ECMWF
SOLUTION...ESP AS THE SURFACE LOW BY MON WILL BE FILLING. AS
SUCH...
WILL NEED TO BACK OFF ON POPS ACROSS THE SE PART OF THE FORECAST
AREA MON...AND SLOW THE SOUTHWARD SPREAD OF POPS. THE HEAVY
PRECIPITATION AXIS HOWEVER IS LIKELY TO MAKE IT DOWN IN THE NW
CORNER OF THE FORECAST AREA MON...AND GIVEN THE TROPICAL MOISTURE
SOURCE AND SLOW SOUTHWARD PROGRESSION...RAINFALL TOTALS ARE LIKELY
TO BE SUBSTANTIAL. MM5 OUTPUT SUGGESTS SOME STRONG WINDS OFFSHORE
MON AS THE FRONT APPROACHES. GIVEN THE TRACK OF THE SURFACE LOW SO
FAR N THOUGH...PREFER TO KEEP WINDS JUST UNDER HIGH WIND CRITERIA
FOR THE N OREGON AND S WA COAST FOR NOW. MODELS AGREE ON
BAROCLINIC
ZONE SAGGING SLOWLY S THROUGH THE AREA MON NIGHT THROUGH TUE NIGHT
AS IT WEAKENS. WILL KEEP POPS ON THE HIGH SIDE THROUGH MON
NIGHT...
BEFORE TAPERING OFF TUE AND TUE NIGHT.

I've got the headlight charged and sealed (?... we'll see) in plastic
food wrap. May have to take it off the bike and stuff it in a bag for
the ride home tomorrow, though - looks like heavy rain then and 15-20
mph headwinds. Need to try and keep it working for the dark mornings.

[Jay Beattie]

On Sep 22, 10:22 am, Frank Krygowski <frkrygowREM...@gEEmail.com>

Well, my battery system requires no maintenance, although I have to
remember to charge my battery. I may have wiped off the contacts at
some point. The downside is forgetting to charge your battery. The
upside is lots of light, which is something I like.

I saw a dynamo driven LED light that claimed 650 lumen output, which
is almost there with my 700 lumen LED battery light. The headlight
light alone was more than my battery system. I don't know what the
associated electronics cost either or whether it has a standlight or
substantial capacitance or batteries to keep that kind of light output
at low speeds, e.g. climbing.

Flea lights don't work for me, so if I get a dynamo set up, it's got
to be able to put out some serious light.

-- Jay Beattie.

[Frank Krygowski]

Jay Beattie wrote:
> On Sep 22, 10:22 am, Frank Krygowski<frkrygowREM...@gEEmail.com>
> wrote:
>> Dan O wrote:
>>
>>> Generator lighting systems *are* indeed, far more complex - with all
>>> that entails and implies.
>>
>> They're more complex to manufacture. They're a bit more difficult to
>> install. (People here sometimes forget that many bicyclists have almost
>> no skill with tools and mechanical objects.) Once installed, generator
>> systems are more reliable and require far less maintenance, so from the
>> viewpoint of the owner, operational complexity is less.
>
> Well, my battery system requires no maintenance, although I have to
> remember to charge my battery. I may have wiped off the contacts at
> some point. The downside is forgetting to charge your battery.

I was including battery care as maintenance. Granted, it's much less
complicated with the best of the newest systems; but on average, battery
maintenance is always a nagging item on the "to do" list. Disposable
batteries can crap out at any time, and changing them on the road, in
the dark, is a pain. Some rechargeable systems still require timing to
prevent overcharge. Some systems have cords and connectors with
reputations for failing, some for electronics that fail. And all
rechargeable batteries eventually go bad and need replaced, even if
they're not used much.

But almost all generator systems just keep working. Some of the ones on
my bikes are absolutely ancient, yet run fine. They need hardly any
more attention than my car's headlights.

> The upside is lots of light, which is something I like.

I suppose people in flat areas with good night vision would need less
light output than people in hilly areas with poor night vision. Riding
in the rain at night deserves more light output, too, and some of us
avoid that. So it varies. But I don't know I've ever heard anyone
complain about the B&M IQ lights' output. They're expensive ($100 or
so) but that cost will surely improve if you wait a while.

> I saw a dynamo driven LED light that claimed 650 lumen output, which
> is almost there with my 700 lumen LED battery light. The headlight
> light alone was more than my battery system. I don't know what the
> associated electronics cost either or whether it has a standlight or
> substantial capacitance or batteries to keep that kind of light output
> at low speeds, e.g. climbing.

I now have LED generator headlights on three bikes, one of which is a
sort of homebuilt system (a 1955 Sturmey-Archer Dynohub driving a modern
high-power LED in the original S-A headlight shell). All of them light
up to near-full brightness at about 3 mph, so low speed is no problem.

> Flea lights don't work for me, so if I get a dynamo set up, it's got
> to be able to put out some serious light.

In PDX, I think CityBikes would be the place to ask about generators and
generator headlights. They're all about practical use of bikes.

--
- Frank Krygowski

[Jay Beattie]

On Sep 26, 9:00 am, Frank Krygowski <frkrygowREM...@gEEmail.com>

I'm slowly rebuilding an old Cannondale T1000 that I might use as a
dynamo guinea pig -- but that will have to come after I rebuild a
couple other wheels and fix ten thousand tubes. Any brands of
dynohubs to be avoided?

-- Jay Beattie.

[AMuzi]

There's a new Sanyo made in China which has bearing troubles
at very low mileage. Our testers broke them in 2 months of
commuting.

[Frank Krygowski]

Jay Beattie wrote:
>
> I'm slowly rebuilding an old Cannondale T1000 that I might use as a
> dynamo guinea pig -- but that will have to come after I rebuild a
> couple other wheels and fix ten thousand tubes. Any brands of
> dynohubs to be avoided?

I'll defer to Andrew and his warning. I don't try to keep up on the
reputations of all the models. Aside from the antique S-A, the only
dynohub I have is a low-end Shimano model, DH-3N30. It's been fine for
me. According to http://www.bikequarterly.com/VBQgenerator.pdf it's got
more "off" drag than some, but I can't detect any drag at all. Since
I'm not racing, that's all that matters.

FWIW, I have more bottle and roller generators than hub generators.
Those are way easier to install or remove, they generally work fine for
me, and have zero drag when off.

--
- Frank Krygowski

[James]

Jay Beattie wrote:

> Well, my battery system requires no maintenance, although I have to
> remember to charge my battery. I may have wiped off the contacts at
> some point. The downside is forgetting to charge your battery. The
> upside is lots of light, which is something I like.

I hate having to remember to charge batteries, and I like lots of light.

> I saw a dynamo driven LED light that claimed 650 lumen output, which
> is almost there with my 700 lumen LED battery light.

So little difference, you would likely not tell them apart if the beam
pattern was identical.

> The headlight
> light alone was more than my battery system.

Disgraceful.

> I don't know what the
> associated electronics cost either or whether it has a standlight or
> substantial capacitance or batteries to keep that kind of light output
> at low speeds, e.g. climbing.

My light is operational at fast walking speed (5-6km/h) and is seemingly
near full brightness by 10-15 km/h.

> Flea lights don't work for me, so if I get a dynamo set up, it's got
> to be able to put out some serious light.

I'm with you on that.

--
JS.

[Lou Holtman]

Op 26-9-2011 16:33, Jay Beattie schreef:

> Flea lights don't work for me, so if I get a dynamo set up, it's got
> to be able to put out some serious light.

You don't have any complaints with this one. Just finished it. Better
than any battery light I have ever seen or used.

https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/DynohubLightSystem#

Did I win the lottery? No, I saved for it. No second mortgage ;-)
Do I leave this bike unattended even locked? Hell no.

Total weight of bike including light system 9.62 kg.

Lou

[James]

Sweet!

I also wrap the electrical cable from the dynamo (which is in front of
the rear brake bridge on my bike) along the rear brake cable to the
front of the bike where the head light is.

(Note your typo in the comment for photo 4 of 10, "warped" should be
wrapped I think.)

--
JS.

[Jay Beattie]

This is the one I want: http://www.supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_triple.html
800 lumens, which is more than my Nightrider Pro700 battery light.
Peter White says it is too bright for traffic -- which may be true if
you aim it at the drivers, but otherwise . . . no.

BTW, my Pro 700 is a total slacker next to the new Pro 1500 or the
Pro 3000 (gads). Those are some serious retina burners, but hey, it's
nice to see the road when it is dark and pouring rain -- basically the
way it will be commuting home for the next 8 months.

What is in the bulb housing to power the light at rest or to ensure
full output at low speeds (capcitors, batteries?). I don't see any
other outboard electronics. I'm wondering if an ordinary dyno-hub can
put out enough current to run the light at full brightness (like that
three LED job) at low speeds without some help. Does it have a stand
light?

You should get an award for the "garage that looks most like an
operating room" and the cleanest bikes on earth. Do you have a maid
service. I'd show pictures of my lights, but then you would have to
see how dirty and beat my garage and bikes are.

-- Jay Beattie.

[Frank Krygowski]

Phil W Lee wrote:
> Jay Beattie<jbea...@lindsayhart.com> considered Tue, 27 Sep 2011

> 17:41:35 -0700 (PDT) the perfect time to write:
>
>> This is the one I want: http://www.supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_triple.html
>> 800 lumens, which is more than my Nightrider Pro700 battery light.
>> Peter White says it is too bright for traffic -- which may be true if
>> you aim it at the drivers, but otherwise . . . no.
>

> From the beam-shot they show on that page, it would be difficult to
> aim it in any direction that would illuminate the road and not the
> oncoming drivers' retinas.
> That is only acceptable for road use if it is switched with a "low
> beam" shaped standards compliant light.

I agree. That beam shot is a really good example of wasted lumens and
crude optics. The trees overhead are highly illuminated, but you never
need to see the trees on a road ride, at least not that clearly. So
about 400 of those lumens are absolutely wasted, along with the energy
that goes into producing them and the money spent to pay for the LEDs
that deliver them.

If you were to put (say) a moped or motorcycle headlight beamshot
alongside, it would show the road as clearly but it would have a good
cutoff at the horizon, with much less light flaring upward. That would
actually let you see better, since the upward light also works against
your night vision, an effect that's even worse in fog or rain.

Aiming that light downward will over-illuminate the hot spot in front of
the bike. Again, that will probably hurt your overall night vision.
Much better to have a more uniform brightness of the road surface, with
less light wasted. That's what all other road vehicles have.

--
- Frank Krygowski

[James]

Jay Beattie wrote:
> On Sep 27, 11:53 am, Lou Holtman <lou.holt...@usenet.nl> wrote:
>> Op 26-9-2011 16:33, Jay Beattie schreef:
>>
>>> Flea lights don't work for me, so if I get a dynamo set up, it's got
>>> to be able to put out some serious light.
>> You don't have any complaints with this one. Just finished it. Better
>> than any battery light I have ever seen or used.
>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/DynohubLightSystem#
>>
>> Did I win the lottery? No, I saved for it. No second mortgage ;-)
>> Do I leave this bike unattended even locked? Hell no.
>>
>> Total weight of bike including light system 9.62 kg.
>
> This is the one I want: http://www.supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_triple.html
> 800 lumens, which is more than my Nightrider Pro700 battery light.
> Peter White says it is too bright for traffic -- which may be true if
> you aim it at the drivers, but otherwise . . . no.
>
> BTW, my Pro 700 is a total slacker next to the new Pro 1500 or the
> Pro 3000 (gads). Those are some serious retina burners, but hey, it's
> nice to see the road when it is dark and pouring rain -- basically the
> way it will be commuting home for the next 8 months.

You must have perfected the art of drying clothing and shoes, or enjoy
pulling on cold wet stuff - ugh. Not my idea of fun.

> What is in the bulb housing to power the light at rest or to ensure
> full output at low speeds (capcitors, batteries?). I don't see any
> other outboard electronics. I'm wondering if an ordinary dyno-hub can
> put out enough current to run the light at full brightness (like that
> three LED job) at low speeds without some help. Does it have a stand
> light?

How full is "full" output, and how low is "low" speed?

> You should get an award for the "garage that looks most like an
> operating room" and the cleanest bikes on earth. Do you have a maid
> service. I'd show pictures of my lights, but then you would have to
> see how dirty and beat my garage and bikes are.

If I could move freely in my garage it would be a blessing. Turn side
ways, shimmy along...

--
JS.

[James]

Phil W Lee wrote:
> Jay Beattie <jbea...@lindsayhart.com> considered Tue, 27 Sep 2011

>> This is the one I want: http://www.supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_triple.html
>> 800 lumens, which is more than my Nightrider Pro700 battery light.
>> Peter White says it is too bright for traffic -- which may be true if
>> you aim it at the drivers, but otherwise . . . no.
>

> From the beam-shot they show on that page, it would be difficult to
> aim it in any direction that would illuminate the road and not the
> oncoming drivers' retinas.
> That is only acceptable for road use if it is switched with a "low
> beam" shaped standards compliant light.

Recently I rode to a friends house at night along unfamiliar streets
with poor street lighting. I had to make a few turns on to different
streets and found it almost impossible to see the street signs.

In a car, even on low beam, the street signs are quite visible.

Some spill up and to the sides is good. I aimed my light up a little
which helped.

I'd say treat those photos as advertising. Cameras can make dull lights
look bright. Also a dull light may look bright in pitch black
surrounds, but can appear almost nonexistent in the presence of street
lighting.

Also note that the light is not designed necessarily for road use, as
the description says;

"We recommend the E3 Triple for:
• 24 hour MTB races
• MTB nightbiking
• Randonneuring
• Cyclocross training
• Nyctophobics"

MTBing requires a bit more side and upward light, to illuminate more of
the scene you're about to ride through.

--
JS.

[Lou Holtman]

On 28 sep, 02:41, Jay Beattie <jbeat...@lindsayhart.com> wrote:
> On Sep 27, 11:53 am, Lou Holtman <lou.holt...@usenet.nl> wrote:
>
> > Op 26-9-2011 16:33, Jay Beattie schreef:
>
> > > Flea lights don't work for me, so if I get a dynamo set up, it's got
> > > to be able to put out some serious light.
>
> > You don't have any complaints with this one. Just finished it. Better
> > than any battery light I have ever seen or used.
>
> >https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/DynohubLightSystem#
>
> > Did I win the lottery? No, I saved for it. No second mortgage ;-)
> > Do I leave this bike unattended even locked? Hell no.
>
> > Total weight of bike including light system 9.62 kg.
>
> This is the one I want:http://www.supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_triple.html
> 800 lumens, which is more than my Nightrider Pro700 battery light.
> Peter White says it is too bright for traffic -- which may be true if
> you aim it at the drivers, but otherwise . . . no.

Yes that is a nice one too, but a little over the top for my use. I
don't want to blind people like a don't want to be blinded.

> BTW, my Pro 700 is a total slacker next to the new Pro 1500  or the
> Pro 3000 (gads).  Those are some serious retina burners, but hey, it's
> nice to see the road when it is dark and pouring rain -- basically the
> way it will be commuting home for the next 8 months.

Yuck!

>
> What is in the bulb housing to  power the light at rest or to ensure
> full output at low speeds (capcitors, batteries?).

A capacitor.

> I don't see any other outboard electronics.

No, thank god.

> I'm wondering if an ordinary dyno-hub can
> put out enough current to run the light at full brightness (like that
> three LED job) at low speeds without some help.

I don't know. Where I'm riding in the dark it is dead flat. I never go
slower than 25 km/hr. My experience is that from15 km/hr and up you
have almost max light output.

> Does it have a stand light?

Yes, 5 minutes according to the specs. Not really important to me.
Never stand still for more than half a minute.

> You should get an award for the "garage that looks most like an
> operating room" and the cleanest bikes on earth.  Do you have a maid
> service.

No I'm a tidy person. There is no need to make a mess out of your
garage. Throw/give away what you don't need anymore. Don't pile up
stuff. Store things you don't use very often on the attic.
I have always one dirty bike in use. If it is foul weather I use that
one, if it is nice weather I can use all of my bikes. The dirty bike
gets cleaned when it is necessary. After that I can use any bike when
the weather is bad again and that bike becomes the dirty bike. Etc. It
is a system ;-)

> see how dirty and beat my garage and bikes are.

No problem with me, it is your garage and your bikes.

Lou

[Dan O]

On Sep 27, 5:41 pm, Jay Beattie <jbeat...@lindsayhart.com> wrote:
> On Sep 27, 11:53 am, Lou Holtman <lou.holt...@usenet.nl> wrote:
>
> > Op 26-9-2011 16:33, Jay Beattie schreef:
>
> > > Flea lights don't work for me, so if I get a dynamo set up, it's got
> > > to be able to put out some serious light.
>
> > You don't have any complaints with this one. Just finished it. Better
> > than any battery light I have ever seen or used.
>
> >https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/DynohubLightSystem#
>
> > Did I win the lottery? No, I saved for it. No second mortgage ;-)
> > Do I leave this bike unattended even locked? Hell no.
>
> > Total weight of bike including light system 9.62 kg.
>
> This is the one I want:http://www.supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_triple.html
> 800 lumens, which is more than my Nightrider Pro700 battery light.

I had been looking at the Inoled(s) w/ battery pack, but those
Supernova seem really nice. (Looking at Peter White's site.) I like
the Multimount thing - nice. Quality looks good (I like the "... some
of the finest bicycle lights you can buy" and "... extremely well made
and super reliable" - although it sort of sounds like he's talking
about their battery lights there, but presumably these are the same
sort of quality.)

> Peter White says it is too bright for traffic -- which may be true if
> you aim it at the drivers, but otherwise . . . no.
>

I don't think I'd need the E3 Triple, and could save some bucks toward
a hub of similar quality with the E3 161. "SON hub dynamo... a
perfect match for the Supernova E3" :-)

> BTW, my Pro 700 is a total slacker next to the new Pro 1500 or the
> Pro 3000 (gads). Those are some serious retina burners, but hey, it's
> nice to see the road when it is dark and pouring rain -- basically the
> way it will be commuting home for the next 8 months.
>

Hey my $60 PB Blaze made it in through the drenching rain Tuesday with
no troubles. I dried it out after the last rain event fiasco, put it
back together minus the rubber switch cover (which had leaked), but
with a few winds of plastic food wrap tightly around the seam and the
switch hole, and a couple squares of folded up plastic wrap underneath
on either side where water might get in from the front. I left the
house and got about a block before going back for one wrap of black
electical tape over the switch hole, which was leaking bright light in
my face. The switch is easy to actuate through the flexible food wrap
and electrical tape (easier than that rubber button, actually).

(I do have a separate story about Monday morning, though - using the
same light in the same configuration - with no rain to speak of - the
scariest thing that ever happened to me bicycle commuting - wherein
the driver's story was, "Sorry, I didn't see you." It cause me to
wonder a bit if the little folded pieces of plastic wrap on either
side were a mistake... but no, I don't think so; at least no more than
my black shorts and knee and arm warmers and panniers and lack of
reflectors plastered on everything. Everybody *else* saw me. But you
have to hear this story - separately.)

> What is in the bulb housing to power the light at rest or to ensure
> full output at low speeds (capcitors, batteries?). I don't see any
> other outboard electronics. I'm wondering if an ordinary dyno-hub can
> put out enough current to run the light at full brightness (like that
> three LED job) at low speeds without some help. Does it have a stand
> light?
>

Hmm... don't know. I'm not opposed to mounting one of those little
bitty but bright enough to be seen keychain-sized battery lights
somewhere if necessary.

> You should get an award for the "garage that looks most like an
> operating room" and the cleanest bikes on earth. Do you have a maid
> service. I'd show pictures of my lights, but then you would have to
> see how dirty and beat my garage and bikes are.
>

We all know Lou is that one guy who actually does things the way they
ought to be :-)

[James]

Lou Holtman wrote:
> On 28 sep, 02:41, Jay Beattie <jbeat...@lindsayhart.com> wrote:
>> On Sep 27, 11:53 am, Lou Holtman <lou.holt...@usenet.nl> wrote:
>>
>>> Op 26-9-2011 16:33, Jay Beattie schreef:
>>>> Flea lights don't work for me, so if I get a dynamo set up, it's got
>>>> to be able to put out some serious light.
>>> You don't have any complaints with this one. Just finished it. Better
>>> than any battery light I have ever seen or used.
>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/DynohubLightSystem#
>>> Did I win the lottery? No, I saved for it. No second mortgage ;-)
>>> Do I leave this bike unattended even locked? Hell no.
>>> Total weight of bike including light system 9.62 kg.
>

>> What is in the bulb housing to power the light at rest or to ensure
>> full output at low speeds (capcitors, batteries?).
>
> A capacitor.
>

>> Does it have a stand light?
>
> Yes, 5 minutes according to the specs. Not really important to me.
> Never stand still for more than half a minute.

Does it drop to some low beam mode to conserve capacitor juice?

5 minutes on a capacitor seems like a long time.

http://www.supernova-lights.com/downloads/sn_innere-werte.pdf

"Maximum brightness at low
speeds
The E3 PRO was developed to reach its
near-maximum brightness even at very low
speeds. The stand light capacitor supports
the LED when you are riding slowly."

"long-lived stand light
The stand light of the E3 PRO shines for more than
5 minutes with the Supernova dynamo tail light. The
power comes from a high-quality double-layer Supercap
capacitor, which is charged gently and doesn�t
have any memory effect."

It is very impressive.

--
JS.

[James]

Furthermore, you can get different lenses for different circumstances...

http://www.supernova-lights.com/newsite/e3_comparison.html

"The Supernova E3 PRO with Terraflux lens, approved by German traffic
law (new glare-free lens). Ideal for city cyclists. "

Sounds ideal!

--
JS.

[Dan O]

On Sep 28, 3:40 pm, James <james.e.stew...@gmail.com> wrote:
> James wrote:
> > Phil W Lee wrote:

> >> Jay Beattie <jbeat...@lindsayhart.com> considered Tue, 27 Sep 2011

Dear Santa,

I've been very good this year, and...

[Dan O]

> capacitor, which is charged gently and doesn t

> have any memory effect."
>
> It is very impressive.
>

... er... this is the post I meant to preface my letter to Santa. (I
prefer the longer reaching symmetrical lens for my purposes.) The
standlight and its integration augmenting generator power at low-speed
is brilliant (no pun intended).

Now this is some *real* bicycle lighting. (Thanks for the heads up,
Jay - and for the info, Lou, James... everyone.)

[Lou Holtman]

Op 29-9-2011 0:28, James schreef:

> Lou Holtman wrote:
>> On 28 sep, 02:41, Jay Beattie <jbeat...@lindsayhart.com> wrote:
>>> On Sep 27, 11:53 am, Lou Holtman <lou.holt...@usenet.nl> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Op 26-9-2011 16:33, Jay Beattie schreef:
>>>>> Flea lights don't work for me, so if I get a dynamo set up, it's got
>>>>> to be able to put out some serious light.
>>>> You don't have any complaints with this one. Just finished it. Better
>>>> than any battery light I have ever seen or used.
>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/101076538433373858645/DynohubLightSystem#
>>>> Did I win the lottery? No, I saved for it. No second mortgage ;-)
>>>> Do I leave this bike unattended even locked? Hell no.
>>>> Total weight of bike including light system 9.62 kg.
>>
>>> What is in the bulb housing to power the light at rest or to ensure
>>> full output at low speeds (capcitors, batteries?).
>>
>> A capacitor.
> >
>>> Does it have a stand light?
>>
>> Yes, 5 minutes according to the specs. Not really important to me.
>> Never stand still for more than half a minute.
>
> Does it drop to some low beam mode to conserve capacitor juice?

Yes it does to a level just enough to be seen IMO.

Lou