How much play of cassette on hub?
Dan Mitchell
the hub? I just stripped and cleaned a back (8-speed, '96, XTR) hub and
put things back together, and there's definite noticeable play of both the
larger cluster of four cogs and each of the individual smaller cogs against
one another/the hub body.
(I don't know if this was there before I took things apart; bike came to
me second-hand, I don't remember this play, but I didn't really look for it,
either).
I've tightened the lockring down as much as I can, but that hasn't made
any difference -- I can only assume that this play is inherent from the size
of the splines on the hub differing from the size of the recesses in the
cogs; but should I expect to be able to tell there's play? None of the
cogs actually screw into place, so the only adjustment I have to use is
the lockring, but that's as tight as it'll get.
(another, possibly related, question; the outermost section of the hub
body is threaded on the _outside_ for about 2mm; there's nothing that
actually threads onto this -- the smallest cog slides over here instead.
What's this threading for?)
thanks for any advice,
-- dan
Dan Mitchell
> (another, possibly related, question; the outermost section of the hub
>body is threaded on the _outside_ for about 2mm; there's nothing that
>actually threads onto this -- the smallest cog slides over here instead.
>What's this threading for?)
Anyway, I took things apart one more time to make sure I wasn't doing
anything too stupid, and confirmed what I thought; the size of the splines
on the outside of the hub body is smaller than the size of the recesses on
the inside of the cogs/cog cluster -- so the cogs can move back and forth
somewhat.
Is this normal? Does it imply wear on the hubs and/or cogs? I can make
it go away briefly by tightening the lock ring down; that seems to squeeze
everything together and they stay locked to finger force; but as soon as I
pedal, they come loose again from whatever was holding them together, and
unless I'm missing something important about how to do this, there's no way
I'm going to get the lock ring any tighter, either.
I've made sure there's no remaining grease/dirt between the cogs and
spacers, just in case that's it -- but I really can't see where I can go
next to get rid of this.
Should I even be worrying about this sort of play?
thanks,
-- dan
jeffslotkin
a Grecian column, behind the smallest cog. If somebody has lost it
things won't tighten. JS
Dan Mitchell <djmit...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:392ad...@news.cadvision.com...
Dan Mitchell
>There should be a thin spacer in there, shaped like a cross-section of
>a Grecian column, behind the smallest cog. If somebody has lost it
>things won't tighten. JS
The smallest cog has a spacer built into it, so that the spacing between
the cogs is all even; is this what you mean? This spacer goes between the
smallest cog and the second-smallest cog, then? There's no spacers shaped
like columns or anything else other than just round, though. Hm. Perhaps I
lost that when cleaning things; perhaps it was never there, I honestly
don't remember one way or another. I'll check around where I last took it
apart and see -- and I can probably pick such a spacer up from an LBS
easily enough just in case.
Thanks for the pointer!
-- dan
Dan Mitchell
>On Tue, 23 May 2000 19:56:48 GMT, jeffslotkin <jeffs...@home.com> wrote:
>>There should be a thin spacer in there, shaped like a cross-section of
>>a Grecian column, behind the smallest cog. If somebody has lost it
>>things won't tighten. JS
Well, I've got such a spacer (when you say "column", presumably this is
meant to be hollow; I guess it must be or it wouldn't fit over the body
of the hub), put it in place behind the smallest cog, and it made no
difference at all. (well, shifting onto that cog became marginally trickier
because the spacing was now different because of the spacer, but other than
that, nothing changed).
There didn't seem to be any increase in the amount of tightening I could
apply, except that the lock ring was only just engaging at the start of
the tightening process.
I think it may just be wear on the cogs/freehub body, in practise, just
because they move around a fair amount when not tightened down; the
only thing I can think of now is to head off to an LBS and put a _new_
cassette on the wheel to see if there's less slop there; if not, then
it's the cassette that needs replacing, if so, then I'd guess it's the
splined bit of the freehub. Possibly both.
I guess this comes back to the original question of how much play I should
expect..
-- dan
Michael Bowler
think this matters too much, as there is also play between the chain to
cog interface, chain to chainwheel interface, side to side play in the
derailler etc. As long as things shift and feel alright while riding, I
would not worry about it.
Cheers,
Michael
--
Michael Bowler mbo...@chrysalis-its.com
Chrysalis-ITS Inc. (613) 723-5076x408
Brian Manning
Michael Bowler wrote:
Sorry, but I'd have to disagree. Having play in your cogset is like having
play in your car's transmission. The sloppier it is, the quicker it wears
out. If your car slips and slams into gear from every stop, it will
eventually ruin your transmission if you don't fix it. Likewise I'd think
that (and I may be wrong.......it's been known to happen) any play in your
cassette, be it directional or lateral, would inevitably create grooves or
pits in the splines on the hub. I agree that some cassettes do have an
inherent amount of play in them depending on the cassette, but I myself
would go for the combo with the least amount of play to minimize unnecessary
maintenance.
Nick Keyes
#Sorry, but I'd have to disagree. Having play in your cogset is like
having
#play in your car's transmission. The sloppier it is, the quicker it
wears
#out. If your car slips and slams into gear from every stop, it will
#eventually ruin your transmission if you don't fix it. Likewise I'd
think
#that (and I may be wrong.......it's been known to happen) any play in
your
#cassette, be it directional or lateral, would inevitably create
grooves or
#pits in the splines on the hub. I agree that some cassettes do have
an
#inherent amount of play in them depending on the cassette, but I
myself
#would go for the combo with the least amount of play to minimize
unnecessary
#maintenance.
My experience is different than yours. My older seven speed bike has
always had a floating sort of rear cassette and it lasts longer than
the cassette on my newer eight speed bike. I have replace the eight
speed cassette two going on three times. The seven speed I have only
replace once. The seven speed is shimano XT and the eight speed has
had both XTR and XT.
Since the rear derailers top cog wheel is designed to float I see no
problem with the cassette wandering. The wheel is designed to float to
assist in shifting the chain and getting perfect alignment after the
shift. I believe shimano originated this concept.
My guess is that by the time you wear the spline out (if that is where
the play is) you will need a new rim and hub anyway.
Peter Headland
> relative to the hub?
None. The lockring should clamp the whole set tightly enough that they do
not move around at all. If they move you get annoying little thunks when you
start pedalling.
--
Peter Headland, Matrix Link, UK
Pe...@matrixlink.com
http://www.matrixlink.com/