wrapping handlebars revisited
am...@erols.com
for all, and found the below advice from daveh. I have always done it that
way, but after a while (sometimes longer, sometimes not), one wrap of the
tape always winds up scooting out from underneath the wrap on top of it,
leaving a piece of handlebar exposed at the end of the tops, just before the
first bend. This looks really ugly. I've thought of using spray adhesive at
this section, but then there's no non-destructive removal. Any thoughts?
Mark
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1. Make sure the bars are clean and grease free. Clean them
carefully with lacquer thinner or acetone. You can remove old glue
residue with turpentine. Wash your hands to remove any oils, and try
to avoid touching the bars.
2. If you have any hidden cables (brakes, Ergo shifters,
etc.) make sure they are well secured. I like 3M electrical tape for
this purpose, but other tapes will work too. Make sure there are on
wrinkles or kinks. Be sure to secure the cables at the point the
cable will emerge from the final wrapping.
3. Place pieces of bar wrap (about 3-4" long) around the
base/band of the brake levers and up the sides of the levers. You
will probably need to roll the hoods up to do this. Leave the hoods
rolled up.
4. Start at the end of the bar and leave about 1" hanging off
the end all around. Start wrapping with the tape at about a 45° angle
to the bar. The wrap should be clockwise on the right side, CCW on
the left (if you are viewing the handlebar from the open tip). So,
the wrap will come up the inside of the bar, go over the top, and then
go down the outside and under. Try to stretch the tape about 20-30%
of its length as you go.
5. If you get along in the wrapping and decide that it's too
thick (not enough angle, or too much overlap) or too thin (too much
angle - not enough overlap) or you've screwed up a particular area,
just unwrap and try it again. The tape should probably be overlapping
itself by about 1/3 to 1/2 it's width.
6. When you you get to the brake levers, try to cover the
area as best you can -- no magic formula here. The short pieces you
installed earlier will do some of the covering. Once you pass the
brake lever area, you can roll the hoods back down.
7. When you get to the center of the bar (usually the edge of
the engraved reinforcement) just keep going for an inch or so.
8. Figure out how you're going to secure the center. Cinelli
supplies tape for this purpose -- it looks spiffy but is really not
very good tape. 3M electrical tape works great and comes in about 50
different colors. Using whatever tape you select, make about 4 or 5
turns around the bar, so that the edge of your securing tape is right
at the edge of the bar reinforcement. This taping should be very
tight.
9. Finally, get a razor blade or very sharp utility knife
(the kind with the break-off blades) and carefully trim using the edge
of the bar reinforcement as a guide. If you put the securing tape on
properly, you shouldn't be cutting much of it off -- mostly just the
bar wrap.
10. At the outside end of the bar, fold the tape up inside the
bar. Then, stick in a plastic plug to secure the whole mess to the
bar.
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fo...@appstate.edu
realize that your immediate response will be "that's nuts" but I have had
good luck with it and so I am passing it along. Do all that Daveh recommends
in preparation, clean, small pieces at the brakes etc. Then find the
midpoint on your tape and using that point (do not cut!!!!) start wrapping
your bar AT THE BRAKE HOOD. Cover as best you can around the brake and on up
to the top at the stem.
Tape as described in your note. Then take the remaining 1/2 of the piece and
wrap DOWN to the bottom of the bar and into the plug hole, as usual. Why is
this good? because now, no matter where you put your hands, as your hands
slide forward they are pushing down on the edges of the tape and NOT tending
to peel it up which happens if you start at either end and wrap straight
through. This way protects the tape from peeling. Just try it, if you don't
like it take it off, but my belief is you will like it and it will hold
forever, it does for me.
PUNCHESFTW
>(the kind with the break-off blades) and carefully trim using the edge
>of the bar reinforcement as a guide. If you put the securing tape on
>properly, you shouldn't be cutting much of it off -- mostly just the
>bar wrap.
I agree with your entire metod except for the razor blade against the
aluminum bar part. I just cut the tape at an angle with scissors and then tape
as you suggest. It makes me nervous when I see the razor blade method ;Because,
over time a stress riser will occur and the bars will break.
I saw it happen a few weeks ago at the HHH Crit during a sprint and it was
pretty ugly.
Doug
Steve Tyler
Having wrapped only one bar (three times however) I found that the
biggest mistake I make as a beginner is allowing the wrap to be too
loose. Loose wrap separated very quickly under my grip. Bar wraps can
be stretched quite a bit without breaking. At that point I concerned my
self with overlap and covering as much of the brake clamp as possible.
Since I could afford to waste a wrap or two, this was the most enjoyable
part of building my bicycle. It was like icing a cake.
Cheers,
Steve
> 9. Finally, get a razor blade or very sharp utility knife
> (the kind with the break-off blades) and carefully trim using the edge
> of the bar reinforcement as a guide. If you put the securing tape on
> properly, you shouldn't be cutting much of it off -- mostly just the
> bar wrap.
>
> 10. At the outside end of the bar, fold the tape up inside the
> bar. Then, stick in a plastic plug to secure the whole mess to the
> bar.
>