Have you created anything "home-made" for your plane? (or a low cost alternative?)
Andy
seeimingly unlimited amount of accessories available for my plane. Most
seem to have one thing in common - a high price tag.
I was wondering if anyone reading this thread would share information
on any devices that are perhaps homemade or are low cost alternatives
to items available in aviation catalogs.
I guess this would include anything from pilot -assist devices to low
cost alternatives to lighting, interior upholstery, and the like.
Thanks in advance for any input you may offer.
Andy.
john smith
> on any devices that are perhaps homemade or are low cost alternatives
> to items available in aviation catalogs.
Wheel Chocks. Go to your local hardware store and purchase a three-foot
length of whatever size angle iron you find sufficient. Cut into 8-inch
lengthes. Paint them a bright color, attach red ribbon and bungie cord.
Stow them in the baggage compartment or under the pilot seat for easy
access.
Do you use grass airstrips? Are you going to AirVenture?
Cut three 1-foot x 1-foot squares of marine plywood (not particle board)
of one-inch thickness. Stop just short of where you park the airplane.
Climb out, pull out the boards, place them ahead of each wheel. With
help, pull the airplanes wheels onto the plywood. When you are ready to
leave, pull the airplane off the plywood and stow them away for the next
use. This prevents yours wheels form sinking into the ground and
requiring high engine power to pull the airplane free from the ruts.
Montblanc may be selling them at the R.A.P gathering this summer at
AirVenture.
Jay Honeck
> on any devices that are perhaps homemade or are low cost alternatives
> to items available in aviation catalogs.
Great topic! And, now that you're a new aircraft owner, let me welcome
to the cadre of perpetually-impoverished-but-ecstatically-happy
pilots.... ;-)
I'll start off with a few:
1. Nose covers. Custom made "mittens" for airplanes (essential in the
winter in cold climes) can run hundreds of dollars. My wife, Mary,
took some measurements, took an old dark blue (essential for heat
absorbtion from the sun) nylon sleeping bag, cut it to spec, added long
velcro straps, and voila! We've got the best nose cover around for
less than twenty bucks.
2. Sun screens. When we park for a week at OSH or SNF, the interior
just bakes. Store-bought sun screens cost big bucks -- I went to
Menards, bought a roll of aluminum insulation (the 3/8" thick stuff),
carefully cut them to about 1/2 inch bigger than the windows, and had
Mary stitch around the edges with cloth. Total cost was less than $20,
and they work -- and look -- just like the "real" ones.
3. Throttle Cover. This is one I've not seen in catalogs, so I made it
myself. The plastic "T-shift" throttle on our Pathfinder always struck
me as cheap and cheesy. When we had the interior re-done in light gray
leather, I fashioned a stitch-on leather cover for it. Looks and feels
great.
I'll bet you get a lot of responses...
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"
Al Gilson
I made a nifty glare shield cover out of "runner" carpet. I was tired
of looking at the 40 yr old stuff that was very sun-baked. It just lays
over the top. I cut holes for the defroster, avionics vent and compass.
I bought a little plastic box with a cover for the cargo area to hold
the afore-mentioned chocks, rags, oil, Pledge, etc.
Al
1964 Skyhawk
Spokane, WA
John T
for my popup camper. I put it on the outside of the tent ends when its
popped up. It helps keep the interior cooler. Some folks go so far as to
put it in their zippered windows too when the windows are "curtained".
I didn't bother to edge it. I use spring clamps to clamp it to the roof
at the seams.
Hey, its airplane related...I take my popup to Oshkosh!
John
Montblack
> Do you use grass airstrips? Are you going to AirVenture?
> Cut three 1-foot x 1-foot squares of marine plywood (not particle board)
> of one-inch thickness. Stop just short of where you park the airplane.
> Climb out, pull out the boards, place them ahead of each wheel. With
> help, pull the airplanes wheels onto the plywood. When you are ready to
> leave, pull the airplane off the plywood and stow them away for the next
> use. This prevents yours wheels form sinking into the ground and
> requiring high engine power to pull the airplane free from the ruts.
> Montblanc may be selling them at the R.A.P gathering this summer at
> AirVenture.
1-ft x 1-ft square was found to be somewhat ...ungood. I would recommend at
least 1-ft x 18 inches.
I'll have to start saving scraps of plywood. For long term use, marine
plyw$$d is great! For one week at OSH ...we'll see what I find.
Cost? Free.
Montblack
scott moore
First, please don't crosspost to 3 different newsgroups. Pick one. The
groups are separated for a reason.
I have made a yoke mount for my computer.
The most popular homemade accessory around here is airplane covers,
mostly made with tarps :-0
Dudley Henriques
"Jay Honeck" <jjho...@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:1144538465....@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
My wife made me up a pitot cover made from bright red cloth with a flag
hanging down with the words "high voltage don't touch!" sewn on it both
sides.
Worked wonders for keeping people from handling it at the show sites :-)
Dudley
Prime
news:1144534743....@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
One thing that bugs me is the high cost of headsets. I've been enjoying
some Sony in-the-ear audio earphones that sound great with my MP3 player.
I did some research and found that if you buy a Radio Shack transformer
you can adapt standard earphones to the impedance of the headset, but I
haven't done this yet.
About the time I was thinking about it, I saw that there are a couple of
very light headsets hitting the GA market, same idea, non active NR, with
in-the-ear design. But they're around $500!!!!!
So what I'm wondering is.... I take my earbud headset, make the adaptor
box with the impedance transformer and a potentiometer for volume, and
then how can I get a cheap microphone and make that work? I'm still
thinking about it; I see that you can get relatively inexpensive headsets
for computers with noise-cancelling microphones for around $50.... I've
been contemplating making my own very light, full function headset.
Anybody have any ideas on this one?
(Yes, I know I'm a cheap bas****, but it's either that or I spend $1000
for a Bose headset!)
Jack Allison
> plyw$$d is great! For one week at OSH ...we'll see what I find.
>
> Cost? Free.
>
>
> Montblack
lumpy pillows please? Does the plywood come with N-numbers stenciled
on? In matching colors? Remember, no lumpy pillows. :-)
--
Jack Allison
PP-ASEL-Instrument Airplane
Arrow N2104T
"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the Earth
with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there
you will always long to return"
- Leonardo Da Vinci
(Remove the obvious from address to reply via e-mail)
john h
Use your old ball cap ( worn with the bill forward for you modern guys) use
the shirt cardboard insert from your laundry, glue on to bill of ball cap,
bend each side down and voila a great hood .
"Andy" <andya...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1144534743....@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Jay Honeck
> > plyw$$d is great! For one week at OSH ...we'll see what I find.
> Dibs on the first pair! Um...along with assorted camping gear. No
> lumpy pillows please? Does the plywood come with N-numbers stenciled
> on? In matching colors? Remember, no lumpy pillows. :-)
Us too, us too!
Well, skip the pillows -- those we've got. But plywood is something
you could sell in the North 40 for a tidy little profit... EVERYONE
forgets to bring it.
Jay Honeck
I fought this battle, too. Started with a $7.00 (that's not a typo)
used headset that my CFI (also an A&P, also an avionics tech) had
repaired. They were better than nothing, which is what I was wearing
before.
After suffering with those for a year, I bought a pair of Flightcom
Eclipse. Reasonably priced, very comfortable, almost NO noise
attenuation at all.
After suffering with headaches for a year, I bought a pair of Flightcom
DX5s (or whatever they were called). Excellent noise attenuation, but
they clamped your head like Dave Clarks. (They were basically DC
knock-offs) Hurt like hell after an hour.
After suffering with those for a year, I finally broke down and bought
a pair of early LightSpeeds. Excellent comfort, excellent noise
attenuation, and ZERO durability. You could almost literally watch
them break while hanging on the yoke. They were back to LightSpeed
multiple times.
This has gone on for 11 years. I'm finally satisified with my
Lightspeed Twenty 3Gs. They are excellent, comfortable, and durable.
They have a cell phone attachment, auto-shut-off, bass and treble
controls. Battery life is good.
Bottom line: If I had bought the stupid Bose back at the start, I'd be
money ahead. But who knew?
Good luck with building your own -- but I think you'll find that you'll
eventually have to bite the bullet and buy "real" ones...
Jose
(David Clark) hearing protectors for the flight and would still be able
to hear the instructor (who didn't have to scream any louder, since
background noise is attenuated along with his voice), and put a Lafyette
speaker in the earpiece (remember Lafyettes?). With an adaptor, I had
an instant half headset. It made a whole lot of difference (though I
still had to use the mike, that was no big deal)
I also had (inhereted) the most comfortable hood, made of a sheet of
plastic folded three ways and imprinted with the Jeppesen logo. Alas
that was stolen along with my logbook and flight stuff years ago. So I
made another out of shirt cardboard, and it is still the most
comfortable and effective hood I've ever worn. Total cost, about two cents.
The only disadvantage is that now that I have a real headset, I can't
just "slip it on" - I have to remove the headset first. (I don't
remember how I did it when I had the fake headset).
Jose
--
Nothing takes longer than a shortcut.
for Email, make the obvious change in the address.
John T
in my setup, I just connect the radio output directly to my cochlear
implant processor, I don't need the headphones.
What I need is something to hold the microphone in place.
I did ask a couple of manfacturers of those new lightweight headsets
about it. One wouldn't do it, and one misunderstood the setup I wanted
and qouted me for the volume control (which I don't need) and the cord
that connects from the radio to the processor (which I don't need). He
didn't respond.
Anyway, I thought about using one of those computer headset, but I kinda
doubt the mike would be resistant to the noise of an airplane.
I had the idea of getting a good aviation headset and using the mike
from that to craft my own headset...maybe merge with a computer headset
for the boom arm and headband.
RST Engineering
{;-)
Jim
RST Engineering
with simple tools.
Jim
"Al Gilson" <alcess...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:Hr6dnUe8Xee81KXZ...@comcast.com...
RST Engineering
principle that your voice box is inherently interconnected with your
eardrum. Sort of a God-designed sidetone, if you will.
Earphone in one earcup, microphone in the other earcup. Nothing sticking
out front, and no fiddling with that "magic spot" that isn't too weak or
overmodulated.
Stay tuned.
Jim
john smith
> Instead of aluminum, use PVC water pipe. It's lighter yet and can be worked
> with simple tools.
Jim, does the PVC provide any/sufficient friction to prevent the wheels
from rolling on a slope?
Montblack
> Dibs on the first pair! Um...along with assorted camping gear. No lumpy
> pillows please? Does the plywood come with N-numbers stenciled on? In
> matching colors? Remember, no lumpy pillows. :-)
First set (Beta!!) goes to Jack.
By 2.0 we'll have figured out it's a good thing to pound down the nails in
the old pallets. By 3.0 we'll have figured out not to use old pallets. :-)
I'm heading down to the theater shop on Monday. I've called dibbs on all of
the 18" stock. 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, plywood, etc. All the leftover pieces.
Montblack
Camping gear is a go.
Gerry Caron
"RST Engineering" <j...@rstengineering.com> wrote in message
news:d4c1f$443932ae$42512ca2$32...@DIALUPUSA.NET...
> The skunk works here is toying with a microphone-less headset based on the
> principle that your voice box is inherently interconnected with your
> eardrum. Sort of a God-designed sidetone, if you will.
>
> Earphone in one earcup, microphone in the other earcup. Nothing sticking
> out front, and no fiddling with that "magic spot" that isn't too weak or
> overmodulated.
>
to work in SCAPE (Self Contained Atmospheric Pressure Ensemble) suits used
one for their intercom connection. It was a single in the ear combined mic
and earpiece. "Look ma, I'm talking thru my ear!"
The one thing that I remember was that they had custom molded earpieces.
Supposedly for two reasons. First, to make sure it stayed put. Second, to
get solid contact for better audio transmission in the high noise
environment.
Good luck with the project.
Gerry
David Lesher
>The skunk works here is toying with a microphone-less headset based on the
>principle that your voice box is inherently interconnected with your
>eardrum. Sort of a God-designed sidetone, if you will.
>Earphone in one earcup, microphone in the other earcup. Nothing sticking
>out front, and no fiddling with that "magic spot" that isn't too weak or
>overmodulated.
ITSM this was invented by Lear Seigler {sp} in the 70's. The pluses
were it didn't interfere with an O2/Smoke mask such as a HasMat/fire
fighter has on. It also found favor with SWAT-team types because you
could silenty communicate by sub-vocal grunts, etc...
I saw an amateur radio version a few years later; a friend used it
and got many strange looks re "talking to himself" in that pre-cellphone
era.
No idea how well it will work in a high-noise enviroment...
--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Morgans
"RST Engineering" <j...@rstengineering.com> wrote in message
news:d4c1f$443932ae$42512ca2$32...@DIALUPUSA.NET...
> principle that your voice box is inherently interconnected with your
> eardrum. Sort of a God-designed sidetone, if you will.
>
> Earphone in one earcup, microphone in the other earcup. Nothing sticking
> out front, and no fiddling with that "magic spot" that isn't too weak or
> overmodulated.
>
> Stay tuned.
>
> Jim
If I were you, I would get a patent pending on that idea, right away. If
you get it working, just right, a big company could buy the rights, and set
you up for immediate retirement, on the sunny side! <g>
--
Jim in NC
Chuck
To make covers for the pitot and tank vents, I took three tennis balls
and punched holes in two ( for the tank vents) and cut a slit in the
third for the pitot. Attach some red streamers to each as the "remove
before flight" flags.
Chuck
Bob Fry
sm> First, please don't crosspost to 3 different newsgroups. Pick
sm> one. The groups are separated for a reason.
And, work hard and you'll get ahead, eat breakfast for a good start to
the day, and trust our president who knows what's good for the
country.
Just post to r.a.piloting, Usenet's aviation garbage group.
Skywise
news:yQa_f.139280$g47.1...@tornado.tampabay.rr.com:
I have some Radio Shack FM walkie talkies that worked on this
principle...Forgot I even had them till this came up. Now where'd
I put them?
Brian
--
http://www.skywise711.com - Lasers, Seismology, Astronomy, Skepticism
Seismic FAQ: http://www.skywise711.com/SeismicFAQ/SeismicFAQ.html
Quake "predictions": http://www.skywise711.com/quakes/EQDB/index.html
Sed quis custodiet ipsos Custodes?
Jim Burns
Use one of each per set, they'll stack inside each other that way. As far
as friction, the tire should put enough down pressure against the top of the
arch so that the cut edges dig in sufficiently, if not, a smaller diameter
may work better.
Jim Burns
"john smith" <jsm...@net.net> wrote in message
news:jsmith-843547....@network-065-024-007-027.columbus.rr.com...
Jim Burns
baggage compartment and make a stencil of the floor. Then design your
plywood pieces to cover the floor of the baggage compartment completely and
snuggly. If you want to get fancy, rabbit joint the edges so they lay on
top of each other. It'll make a great support platform for the baggage and
spread the load out over the entire floor area.
When we pulled the floor out of the rear baggage compartment of our Aztec,
we found two support stringers that were broken at the ends (where they
rivet to the side stringers). That piece of plywood is now a permanent
member of our W&B, in fact, I even upholstered it and it blends right in.
Jim
"Montblack" <Y4-NOT...4monty4blacky@yvisiy.com> wrote in message
news:123gnjm...@corp.supernews.com...
Montblack
[snip]
> Hey guys, take a piece of cardboard big enough to cover the bottom of your
> baggage compartment and make a stencil of the floor. Then design your
> plywood pieces to cover the floor of the baggage compartment completely
> and snuggly.
I've got a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 plywood back there now. :-)
Montblack
OMG ...at (1-ft x 1-ft) that's 32 squares. Hey guys, it's not funny anymore.
Put
down those saws and back away from the minivan before someone gets hurt.
Montblack
> Just post to r.a.piloting, Usenet's aviation garbage group.
Sorry Bob, you hit that one into the water, like .....three times!!
Could you believe Rocco Mediate at the Masters today?
Going into the Par 3 12th, he's in the hunt with a (3 UNDER) for the
tournament. He comes out of 12 sitting (4 OVER). Oops. That'll happen when
you shoot 10 on a Par 3.
There are many interesting people with a lot of interesting things to say,
in their posts, over at RAP.
Montblack
"Four!"
Watson
Chandlers Apt - $0.99, remove squeaker, place metal grommets from
tarp/tent repair kit near jaw hinge, bungee cord over pitot tube.
Rav O Vac red/white LED headset from Wallie-World - $12.97, attach velcro to
forehead side of headset, velcor to ceiling of aircraft. A very fine and
bright LED instrument flood light. Battery operated LED flood light for
$13. Battery operated regular bulb velcro lights in pilot mags: $49.
For Maules: Wrap down tubes in windsheild with leather steering wheel
wraps. Easier to grab hold of for entry and exit.
For Maules: Make headset hangars (ala Cirrus) from small black metal coat
hooks, attach to down tubes with black velcro or black cable ties.
Velcro spare key holder onto back side of an access panel near cockpit door.
Add spare key.
For quicker battery removal in winter time, use wingnuts on terminals.
Use label maker and put your a/c V speeds on panel near AS indicator.
Use label maker and make "a/c status" near tach: i.e. Annual due, oil
change due, ELT batt due, txpdr pitot/static check due, etc.
Use canoe rail cartop closed cell foam blocks as aft wingtip hangar rash
protector. $5 at Sporting Good Store. Cut slit in foam (if not already
there). Add RBF streamers on opposite sides (for L and R wings).
Use Lemon Pledge (3 Industrial Size Spray cans for $9 at Sam's Club) for
windsheilds and leading edges of wings. Easier to remove bugs next time.
No paint damage or windsheild scratches.
Use little orange plastic cable grippers (cam locks) for cord management
(headsets, gps, etc.) from Home Depot: $0.67, faster and more durable than
velcro or Dave Clark green ties.
Watson
"Chuck" <paula...@wowway.com> wrote in message
news:1144610908....@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
john smith
"Montblack" <Y4-NOT...4monty4blacky@yvisiy.com> wrote:
> OMG ...at (1-ft x 1-ft) that's 32 squares. Hey guys, it's not funny anymore.
And you need 33 pieces for 11 tricycle gear airplanes.
Now what are you going to do???
Bob Fry
MB> ("Bob Fry" wrote)
>> Just post to r.a.piloting, Usenet's aviation garbage group.
MB> There are many interesting people with a lot of interesting
MB> things to say, in their posts, over at RAP.
For sure. But a lot of it has nothing to do with piloting.
Jose
Don't a lot of cellphone earbuds work that way?
Jose
--
The price of freedom is... well... freedom.
Helen
tired of cold air leaking in around the "juice cans" on my 172, instead
of the $800 Sporty's replacement vents, I applied $5 worth of the fuzzy
part of sticky backed velcro to the existing "juice cans." Makes great
weather stripping to keep my cockpit nice and warm.
I have a home-made tie down kit. It consists of three appropriately
sized ropes, professional sized tent pegs, a rubber hammer, and
carabeners. The carabeners came from a kayak store and the rest came
from Lowes. The carabeners are permanently tied to the bottoms of the
ropes. They clip on to tie down rings at an airport. If I'm at an
airport with short or tattered ropes, I loop the existing ropes near the
ground and clip my ropes to them with the carbeners. If there is
nothing at all at the airport to attach to, I park in the grass, thread
the rope through the tent pegs (the knot at the end with the carabener
stops the peg at the end), and hammer the pegs into the ground.
Most of my other pilots supplies for my plane, while not home-made, come
from Walmart. They have some $7 clip on LED lights which are awesome
for the cockpit. Not only are they a great back-up source of lighting,
but they are indispensable when you have the master off and are trying
to clean out the plane after a night flight.
My oil box, survival kit and contents (you could consider that
home-made), life jacket box, Marvel Mystery Oil, MMO funnel, and
cleaning supplies all come from WalMart as well.
Helen
Morgans
"Jim Burns" <jbu...@nospammuniontel.net> wrote in message
news:k9CdnRRhjOW...@wctc.net...
> Use two different diameters, say a 2 1/2" and a 3", cut in half
> lengthwise.
> Use one of each per set, they'll stack inside each other that way. As far
> as friction, the tire should put enough down pressure against the top of
> the
> arch so that the cut edges dig in sufficiently, if not, a smaller diameter
> may work better.
I think he may be missing the part where you use only 1/2 of the pipe?
--
Jim in NC
Morgans
"Jose" <teac...@aol.nojunk.com> wrote in message
news:f2j_f.23790$NS6....@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...
>> If I were you, I would get a patent pending on that idea, right away.
>
> Don't a lot of cellphone earbuds work that way?
>
The ones I have seen have a short boom, with the mic out on it.
It seems (from the conversations here) that this is not a new idea, or
application, though. I had never heard of it, before now.
--
Jim in NC
Montblack
>> OMG ...at (1-ft x 1-ft) that's 32 squares.
> And you need 33 pieces for 11 tricycle gear airplanes.
> Now what are you going to do???
Yes, but how many do the taildragers really need?
http://www.airminded.net/fokD8/fokD8.jpg
Montblack :-)
Steve Foley
Got one of those 'security cables' from Home Depot and a good Master lock.
It got stolen.....
Actually, a friend of mine thanked me for 'letting him' use it. He had to
drop his plane off at a nearby airport that requires prop locks on all
planes. He knew it was in my plane, and knew where the spare keys were.
"Andy" <andya...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1144534743....@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Jim Macklin
available space in the airplanes I was flying. I also made
some pitot covers from leather, that were a wet molded fit,
that would not blow off.
--
James H. Macklin
ATP,CFI,A&P
--
The people think the Constitution protects their rights;
But government sees it as an obstacle to be overcome.
some support
http://www.usdoj.gov/olc/secondamendment2.htm
See http://www.fija.org/ more about your rights and duties.
"Steve Foley" <steve...@DELETE.att.net> wrote in message
news:qts_f.6292$_T5.527@trndny08...
Michael Houghton
In article <1144538465....@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
Jay Honeck <jjho...@mchsi.com> wrote:
>3. Throttle Cover. This is one I've not seen in catalogs, so I made it
>myself. The plastic "T-shift" throttle on our Pathfinder always struck
>me as cheap and cheesy. When we had the interior re-done in light gray
>leather, I fashioned a stitch-on leather cover for it. Looks and feels
>great.
>
...did you stamp "Hurst" on it in gold letters?
yours,
Michael
--
Michael and MJ Houghton | Herveus d'Ormonde and Megan O'Donnelly
her...@radix.net | White Wolf and the Phoenix narrowwares
Bowie, MD, USA | http://whitewolfandphoenix.com
Proud member of the SCA Internet Whitewash Squad
Gary G
headphones. They work very well, and made an audio
transformer that allows me to use those as my headphones.
Comfortable in-ear and nice sound.
However, I had then to find a microphone to use with them,
and that's harder to find (cheap). . .which I am. Ha!
Randy Aldous
Someone in the thread mentioned in-ear headphone/mics for cell phones
being simular. The cheap ones you get for free from your cell dealer
are just a cheap ear-bud and a omnidirectional mic inline with the cord
a few inches down from the earbud. They perform poorly on the ground
with a cell phone, I doubt they would be even worth trying in an
aircraft (think of the opposite of "noise cancelling" microphone....)
A better unit is the Jabra in-ear headset - it looked like a small
black, corded version of the earpiece that Lt. Uhra (sp?) used in the
original Star Trek. It didn't actually use bone-conduction for the
microphone, but had a tiny microphone opening in the black part that
stuck out, popinting towards the lower front of your face. There were
semi-form fitting "ear gels" that came with (Small, Medium and Large)
that you chose to match your ear size. They worked pretty well,
although you had to be careful so the mic hole pointed correctly. The
ear gel idea was ok, if you had "Small" "Medium" or "Large" ears. Those
of us that fell in between, compromised. I will say that once you got
the fit right, they worked well and sounded good, both tx and rx. They
also had a cheaper version with a stubby boom microphone. I just went
to the Jabra website (www.jabra.com) to see what the model number was
and see that the ones described above are nowhere to be found. Progress
(?) I guess. (I did find an example here:
http://makeashorterlink.com/?R106620FC and
http://makeashorterlink.com/?W326430FC - looks like they are
clearancing them out, considering the prices....)
Randy
john smith
> > Now what are you going to do???
> Yes, but how many do the taildragers really need?
> http://www.airminded.net/fokD8/fokD8.jpg
I use three. The small diameter tailwheel will really dig in. Depending
on the taildragger, you may not be able to lift or push the tail out of
the hole.
Grumman-581
In rec.aviation.piloting, "Andy" wrote in message
news:1144534743....@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> I was wondering if anyone reading this thread would share information
> on any devices that are perhaps homemade or are low cost alternatives
> to items available in aviation catalogs.
One of the side seat brackets on my aircraft failed right after takeoff and
the seat fell backwards... I was up around Ft Worth at the time and headed
for Houston... Figured that I would need to do one more landing no matter
what and I might as well do it back home where I can fix the problem...
Fabricated a new bracket once I got home...
Here's the right bracket that *didn't* break...
http://i1.tinypic.com/v62jdi.jpg
Here's the broken left bracket and the inital blank for the new bracket...
http://i1.tinypic.com/v62jpk.jpg
Here's my fabricated left bracket to replace the one that *did* break...
http://i1.tinypic.com/v62hr4.jpg
Tools required -- hammer, vise, drill, bit, file, electric jig saw with
bimetal blade...
When in doubt, get a bigger hammer...
Also had a problem with a lot of small cracks in the dorsal fin of my
aircraft... I reinforced the underside of the entire dorsal fin with
fiberglass and repaint it with Rustoleum enamel... Also had to fabricate a
replacement bracket for the dorsal fin and rivet it to the aircraft since
one of them was broken... Not sure exactly *what* was holding it on the
aircraft, but surprisingly, it would stay attached during flight...
http://i1.tinypic.com/v62l2h.jpg
Of course, not everything is easily fixable... Here's a photo of my gyro
after it's last flight... BTW, I have a broken rib and foot in that photo...
http://i1.tinypic.com/v62mww.jpg
mikem
which tells me if the alternator is on line. It takes up just 0.005
square inches of panel space.
A home-brew auto-muting stereo music switcher which added MP3/CD inputs
and stereo headphone jacks to my otherwise mono audio panel/mono
intercom. Auto mutes when there is activity on the aircraft radios or
intercom. Cost about $50 in parts, vs $1000 for the high end PS
engineering audio system.
Jay Honeck
> after it's last flight... BTW, I have a broken rib and foot in that photo...
>
> http://i1.tinypic.com/v62mww.jpg
Wow -- that must've been a nice landing...not. What happened?
And, dang, you've lost a bunch of girth since that picture was taken!
Or is that the broken rib pushing your shirt out?
;-)
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination".
papenfus...@juneaudotmedotvt.edu
: Three LED (red, amber, green) over/under/just-right voltage indicator
: which tells me if the alternator is on line. It takes up just 0.005
: square inches of panel space.
I've been thinking of doing this, but haven't had time to design the circuit.
Do you have yours available to share?
: A home-brew auto-muting stereo music switcher which added MP3/CD inputs
: and stereo headphone jacks to my otherwise mono audio panel/mono
: intercom. Auto mutes when there is activity on the aircraft radios or
: intercom. Cost about $50 in parts, vs $1000 for the high end PS
: engineering audio system.
I've had non-muting (where I simply tapped a music jack into the audio panel),
partial-muting (10-20dB down), and full-muting iterations on my plane. My comment is
that partial muting is probably about the best option, but it's still not great. It
really discourages conversation among others in the plane that are listening. If you
say something, the music goes away, so most people don't say much. I usually fly long
distances solo, so I use the direct input to my headsets. It does full-muting, but I
get higher fidelity and stereo than running it through the intercom (PC-4 IIRC).
Doesn't seem like it should cost $50 for the parts on that.
-Cory
--
*************************************************************************
* Cory Papenfuss *
* Electrical Engineering candidate Ph.D. graduate student *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
*************************************************************************
Jim Macklin
panel that are not approved. Now if it is a cigarette
lighter plug-in you can do what you want since it is not
part of the airplane.
--
James H. Macklin
ATP,CFI,A&P
--
The people think the Constitution protects their rights;
But government sees it as an obstacle to be overcome.
some support
http://www.usdoj.gov/olc/secondamendment2.htm
See http://www.fija.org/ more about your rights and duties.
"mikem" <mgm1...@utah.edu> wrote in message
news:1144739498.4...@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Montblack
> Of course, not everything is easily fixable... Here's a photo of my gyro
> after it's last flight... BTW, I have a broken rib and foot in that
> photo...
http://i1.tinypic.com/v62mww.jpg
I see Chuck Yeager's broken ribs and raise him one broken foot.
Montblacking-out
"Hurry, take the #^$%^&* picture!"
RST Engineering
parts..." subject in these newsgroups before, and I thought we agreed to
disagree but to let it drop. You wanna start the argument/discussion again?
Jim
"Jim Macklin" <p51mustang[threeX12]@xxxhotmail.calm> wrote in message
news:ycN_f.1347$8q.564@dukeread08...
Grumman-581
news:1144756942....@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
> Wow -- that must've been a nice landing...not. What happened?
Coming in for my last landing of the day, pitched the nose down, fuel went
of the fuel pickup line and engine quit... Should not have been a problem...
Pitched nose down at 60 degree angle, 60 mph descent, right before hitting,
pulled back on the stick, but it wouldn't flare... Hit the concrete /
asphalt of the runway doing the gyro version of a lawn dart... The W&B was
off on the gyro -- I had bought it from a guy south of Miami who was quite a
bit smaller than I and didn't do a "hang test" like I was *supposed* to...
It flew and landed well with the power on, but with the power off, it
wouldn't flare...
> And, dang, you've lost a bunch of girth since that picture was taken!
> Or is that the broken rib pushing your shirt out?
Nawh, the shirt if probably just a bit baggy and coming out and the wind is
filling it out... I suspect that I probably weighed a couple pounds less
back then... Here's what the gyro looked like a bit earlier that day...
http://i1.tinypic.com/v6m813.jpg
Grumman-581
> I see Chuck Yeager's broken ribs and raise him one broken foot.
>
>
> Montblacking-out
> "Hurry, take the #^$%^&* picture!"
Especially since I was having to hold the aircraft up at that time... The
mast would not stand upright on it's own after the crash... To make it even
more fun, I then had the privilege of loading the pieces on my utility
trailer for the trip home -- broken rib and all... Went to the doctor the
next day to check things out and found out that they don't do anything for
broken ribs, just tell you you're an idiot and don't do it again... The bone
that broke in the foot didn't require a cast either, so I just hobbled
around for a couple of weeks... On a positive note, Grace said that I should
switch from rotary wing aircraft to fixed wing and soon thereafter, I bought
my Grumman...
Jim Macklin
"catch up" command and purge old posts regularly, so I would
suggest that such posts about making and installing
equipment should indicate that they are making parts for
their home-built or experimental airplane. Some people may
not understand and might make and install non-certified
parts on their production airplane. It isn't an argument,
it is a caution.
--
James H. Macklin
ATP,CFI,A&P
also an EAA life member
--
The people think the Constitution protects their rights;
But government sees it as an obstacle to be overcome.
some support
http://www.usdoj.gov/olc/secondamendment2.htm
See http://www.fija.org/ more about your rights and duties.
"RST Engineering" <j...@rstengineering.com> wrote in message
news:bb784$443bd17f$42512ad6$17...@DIALUPUSA.NET...
RST Engineering
you can't put non-certified parts on your production airplane and I said you
can. We went round and round for a week, and we finally agreed to disagree.
Now you are starting the whole damned thing over again.
Jim
Jim Macklin
I also think that it is not legal to install parts
willy-nilly on certified airplanes. I don't intend to worry
about your thin skin either.
--
James H. Macklin
ATP,CFI,A&P
--
The people think the Constitution protects their rights;
But government sees it as an obstacle to be overcome.
some support
http://www.usdoj.gov/olc/secondamendment2.htm
See http://www.fija.org/ more about your rights and duties.
"RST Engineering" <j...@rstengineering.com> wrote in message
news:af2a2$443c07e0$425128e2$18...@DIALUPUSA.NET...
Bob Noel
"RST Engineering" <j...@rstengineering.com> wrote:
> And this is exactly the thread we had a year or so ago, where you said that
> you can't put non-certified parts on your production airplane and I said you
> can. We went round and round for a week, and we finally agreed to disagree.
ok, here's my question: Are you saying that I could install any part (certified
or uncertified) I want in my cherokee as long as I have an approval basis
for the installation? or are you saying that no approval basis of the
installation is required?
--
Bob Noel
Looking for a sig the
lawyers will hate
RST Engineering
willy-nilly until you brought it up. As for thin skin, don't worry about
it. If high school students can't get to me, neither can you.
Jim
"Jim Macklin" <p51mustang[threeX12]@xxxhotmail.calm> wrote in message
news:g7U_f.2959$8q.2119@dukeread08...
RST Engineering
>
> ok, here's my question: Are you saying that I could install any part
> (certified
> or uncertified)
No, that's not what I am saying. Installing your homemade piston made out
of a jelly jar probably isn't going to get blessed.
I want in my cherokee as long as I have an approval basis
> for the installation?
Depends entirely on the magnitude of the installation and the expertise of
the installer. And you can't do it yourself without somebody with a ticket
willing to supervise and sign.
or are you saying that no approval basis of the
> installation is required?
Again, depends entirely on the situation. Give me a ferinstance with all
the particulars.
Jim
Bob Noel
"RST Engineering" <j...@rstengineering.com> wrote:
> Again, depends entirely on the situation. Give me a ferinstance with all
> the particulars.
(what particulars do you need?)
Case 1:
Install a digital OAT probe and display in a cherokee. The part is PMA'd for
certain Beech aircraft but not any cherokee
Case 2:
Install a replacement handle for the seat release in a cherokee. The part
was fabricated (by me) from stock laying around the hangar.
Case 3:
Install new aluminum engine baffling fabricated (by me) from aluminum "scrap".
Case 4:
Install an instrument light dimmer switch (a simple rehostat (or however it's
spelled))
RST Engineering
>
> Case 1:
>
> Install a digital OAT probe and display in a cherokee. The part is PMA'd
> for
> certain Beech aircraft but not any cherokee
I'd consider that a minor modification that can be handled on a logbook
entry with an A&P signature. See the last sentence about "instructions for
continued airworthiness". Actually, for a part that isn't required for
flight, I'd not be worried about whether the part was PMA'd at all.
>
>
> Case 2:
>
> Install a replacement handle for the seat release in a cherokee. The part
> was fabricated (by me) from stock laying around the hangar.
21.303(b)(2) gives the owner or the operator the perogative to manufacture
parts for their own aircraft. "manufacturing" does not have to be
physically done by you; if you generate the drawings and take them down to
the local machine shop for fabrication, you are still the "manufacturer".
Again, minor repair UNLESS the installing mechanic can see how a design
change from the original part might get tangled up and inadvertently release
the seat, in which case it isn't a matter of a major repair; it is simply
unairworthy.
>
>
> Case 3:
>
> Install new aluminum engine baffling fabricated (by me) from aluminum
> "scrap".
Minor repair under the watchful eye of the engine mechanic. Airworthiness
depends on how crappy the scrappy was.
>
>
> Case 4:
>
> Install an instrument light dimmer switch (a simple rehostat (or however
> it's
> spelled))
Rheostat. If it a replacement for a currently installed rheostat it is a
minor repair if the replacement part is form, fit, and function with the old
part. If it is a modification, I'd like to see some calculations on how hot
it is going to get, what you have done to address the heat generated,
whether the part is rated for the calculated wattage, and all that good
stuff. If it all calculates out properly, minor modification but with the
caveat that a sheet showing "instructions for continued airworthiness" in
the aircraft files (i.e how often inspected, what are you inspecting for,
and all that stuff).
Jim
Bob Noel
"RST Engineering" <j...@rstengineering.com> wrote:
iow - the answer to my question was yes, any part can be installed
as long as there is an approval basis.
> >
> > Case 1:
> >
> > Install a digital OAT probe and display in a cherokee. The part is PMA'd
> > for
> > certain Beech aircraft but not any cherokee
>
> I'd consider that a minor modification that can be handled on a logbook
> entry with an A&P signature.
the approval basis being the A&P signature
actually, in my case, it was replacing the original OAT probe, I discussed
this with the FSDO prior to the mod and the shop filed a 337.
etc
Grumman-581
> Hey, what cam I say, I'm 60 and don't remember everything.
It's called "having an Alzheimer Moment"... <grin>
Jose
> or uncertified) I want in my cherokee as long as I have an approval basis
> for the installation? or are you saying that no approval basis of the
> installation is required?
I actually talked with somebody at my FSDO (CT) about this kind of
thing. We were talking about installing a non-certified backup AH.
1: You can't install a non-certified (NC) part as a required part of a
certified plane. Thus, the NC gyro can't be your only gyro, or be one
in the sacred six position.
2: You can install anything that is not required, so long as the
installation meets the approval of the certified mechanic doing the
installation and signing off on it. This signoff is essentially saying
that the part will not harm the safety or flight charactaristics of the
aircraft. Thus you can install a (NC!) CD player that plugs into the
cigarette lighter. It can be screwed into the panel, so long as the
certificated mechanic signs off on it (saying that it won't, for
example, get in the way of flight controls, fall off at a critical
moment, and that the installation will withstand the same forces the
rest of the airplane is supposed to withstand.
3: He was concerned about connecting directly to the electrical system,
because there can be no assurance that it won't be a flight hazard, but
IIRC he didn't forbid it.
We did not pursue this further because my club went with a certificated
unit. YMMV.
Jose
--
The price of freedom is... well... freedom.
for Email, make the obvious change in the address.
Grumman-581
In rec.aviation.piloting, "Jose" <teac...@aol.nojunk.com> wrote in message
news:lR__f.24097$NS6....@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...
> We did not pursue this further because my club went with a certificated
> unit.
For the cost of a certified CD player, you could supply everyone on the
plane with an iPod / MP3 player... The earbuds fit nicely inside the ear
cups of a normal aviation headset...
Jose
Yes, but this way if there's a crash, we could sue the artist on the CD
that was playing. :)
It was a backup AH that we installed.
Javier
>> ok, here's my question: Are you saying that I could install any part
>> (certified or uncertified) I want in my cherokee as long as I have an
>> approval basis
>> for the installation? or are you saying that no approval basis of the
>> installation is required?
>
> I actually talked with somebody at my FSDO (CT) about this kind of
> thing. We were talking about installing a non-certified backup AH.
>
> 1: You can't install a non-certified (NC) part as a required part of a
> certified plane. Thus, the NC gyro can't be your only gyro, or be one
> in the sacred six position.
Where is this sacred six panel arrangement described as a must-have?
Where does it say that I can't have any other arrangement but the
traditional six pack?
I'm not arguing whether or not the six pack is the most optimal from a
human factors standpoint. I'm trying to find an FAA citation for that
assertion.
-jav
Jose
>
> Where does it say that I can't have any other arrangement but the traditional six pack?
>
> I'm not arguing whether or not the six pack is the most optimal from a human factors standpoint. I'm trying to find an FAA citation for that assertion.
To my knowledge there is no FAA citation - I am interpolating from the
conversation I had that my FSDO would not approve installing a
non-certified part where a certified part is expected, but would be ok
with the installation of a non certified part which is completely
auxilliary to the aircraft (such as a CD player or a backup AI).
The line is fuzzy. I would expect the "six pack" to be on the far side
of the line, and I am using "six pack" in a slightly more metaphorical
sense actually.
B A R R Y
>
> I actually talked with somebody at my FSDO (CT) about this kind of
> thing. We were talking about installing a non-certified backup AH.
>
> 3: He was concerned about connecting directly to the electrical system,
> because there can be no assurance that it won't be a flight hazard, but
> IIRC he didn't forbid it.
A rep from the same FSDO poo-poohed a non-approved directly connected
electrical device last night. <G>
B A R R Y
>
>
> Where is this sacred six panel arrangement described as a must-have?
I've seen so many panel layouts, maybe it's whatever layout that's in
front of you? <G>
Would glass cockpits not violate the sacred trust?
Javier
Ultimately, I'm interested in accurately information, which Jose
provided in response to my posting.
I just hate it when explanations are sought, created, made up and
dreamed up when it comes to what can and cannot be installed on our
planes. I think sometimes mechanics look for reasons to NOT install
something, rather than to see how a given part or rig or whatever can be
safely and legally installed.
Ham radio rigs on airplanes is a good example.
-jav
LWG
and worked on bone conduction. The mike was not on the cord. The real
advantage to this model was that you would put it under the cup of your
headset, and use the cellphone while in the air. It worked rather well. I
still keep mine in the flight bag as a backup.
"Randy Aldous" <randy....@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1144693301....@t31g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> Regarding in-the-ear microphone/ earphones....
>
> Someone in the thread mentioned in-ear headphone/mics for cell phones
> being simular. The cheap ones you get for free from your cell dealer
> are just a cheap ear-bud and a omnidirectional mic inline with the cord
> a few inches down from the earbud. They perform poorly on the ground
> with a cell phone, I doubt they would be even worth trying in an
> aircraft (think of the opposite of "noise cancelling" microphone....)
>
> A better unit is the Jabra in-ear headset - it looked like a small
> black, corded version of the earpiece that Lt. Uhra (sp?) used in the
> original Star Trek. It didn't actually use bone-conduction for the
> microphone, but had a tiny microphone opening in the black part that
> stuck out, popinting towards the lower front of your face. There were
> semi-form fitting "ear gels" that came with (Small, Medium and Large)
> that you chose to match your ear size. They worked pretty well,
> although you had to be careful so the mic hole pointed correctly. The
> ear gel idea was ok, if you had "Small" "Medium" or "Large" ears. Those
> of us that fell in between, compromised. I will say that once you got
> the fit right, they worked well and sounded good, both tx and rx. They
> also had a cheaper version with a stubby boom microphone. I just went
> to the Jabra website (www.jabra.com) to see what the model number was
> and see that the ones described above are nowhere to be found. Progress
> (?) I guess. (I did find an example here:
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?R106620FC and
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?W326430FC - looks like they are
> clearancing them out, considering the prices....)
>
> Randy
>
Blanche Cohen
go to your local big-box or whatever hardware store, purchase 10 stakes
(12 in. long, 1/2 or 5/8 in in diameter)
why 10 when you only need 9? Because you'll lose one.
cost? about $10. IF you have the equipment (I don't), you can
buy rebar or similar and cut to 12-18 in lengths
at the same store, get a heavy duty plastic hammer - about $2.00
while you're at it, if the store has marine-quality rope, get 3 lengths,
appropriate to your wing height. I have a low-wing cherokee, so
the back tie-down only needs 6 feet at most, the 2 wings, 10 feet each.
the rope needs to be 1/2 to 5/8 in
and wander to the chain area of the store and find the heaviest duty
chain link they have. get 3 set of 4 links. cost - about $3.00 total
if you really want to be spiffy, get a nylon bag to put this all in.
total cost? about $15 + the rope. I bought the rope at the local
marine shop, and bought more than I needed, so you could probably
get by with $20 for a low-wing.
I used this at OSH during the Sunday (Monday?) storm - no problems!
Putting it together...3 stakes go thru 3 of the links on the chain
(or 2 stakes if it's not windy) and the rope goes thru the last
chain. I used an interior chain for the rope so that it would be
easier to get the stakes out of the ground (pull from the middle...)
Item #2 -- glareshield...
In the very near future, the edge (about 3-4 in. wide) of the glareshield
will be completely covered in black velcro. Why? Everything goes up
there and stays there! The handheld GPS (garmin pilott III), the
TPAS, LED flashlight, pen/pencil, etc. No more fumbling around trying
to find something --- it's right there in front of me!
Item #3 -- something to put the O2 mask and/or nose thingy...(cannula)
I leave the hose connected to the O2 tank, then loosely roll the hose
and put the excess and the mask into a large zip-lock plastic bag.
Close the bag up to about 1/2 in and tuck it into the handle of
the O2 case. I've got an Aerox unit in a padded case that is attached
to the right pax seat so I can always reach it. The zip bag fits nicely
into the carrying handle.
Always handy, always clean.
Item #4 -- packages of alcohol wipes.
No, I'm not completely paranoid about germs (well, not yet). But I
frequently have friends, once in a while an Angel Flight. So I keep the
headseats scrupulously clean. The wipes clean off the ear muffs, the
mic and the foam cover on the mic. Got this idea from the museum...
I volunteer at a local museum and do multiple shows for the visitors.
We use wireless hand mics and headsets. So we keep the wipes handy
for the mics, and the spray for various exhibits. Sams club or costco,
100 or 500 in a box for almost nothing. (these are the same wipes
used to "clean" before an injection or blood draw, about 1 inch square)
Item #5 -- under seat storage.
Turns out that the space under a seat in an older cherokee is just bout
the size of a 500 sheet (ream) box of paper. Took the box, reinforced
it a bit with tape, and it's a perfect place for the fire extinguisher,
the CO detector, the "big" flashlight (metal, 3 D size batteries).
Item #6 - the user manual.
The previous owner gave me an 8.5 x 11 binder with everything in it.
Not practical.
Once again, suitable for an older cherokee. The width of the area
between the handles on the yoke is EXACTLY the size of a small, 6x9 in.
plastic clipboard at the local office supply store. The
pressboard won't work, since the clip extends past the edge of the
board. The plastic one has the clip within the boundary of the board.
I rewrote all the procedures, frequently used freqs, checklists, etc
and printed them 3 x 4 in. Over to Kinko's, laminated and spiral
bound it. Fits perfectly on the little clipboard, again, right
in front of me, no hunting for anything. Cost? About $1.00 for
the clipboard and whatever Kinko's charges for laminating and binding.
One side of the little notebook is under the clip, the other side
is held on with a heavy-duty rubber band. Clipboard just slides right
into the yoke.
Item #7 -- AR(R)OW holder.
Back to the office supply store. Small, transparent plastic folder
(letter-size envelope). More velcro. One side of the velcro on
the envelope, the other on the back wall, high up by the headliner
(that way, it won't be dislodged by luggage or gear). Absolutely
visible to everyone at any time. Cost? Another $1.00 IIRC.
Blanche Cohen
>Use canoe rail cartop closed cell foam blocks as aft wingtip hangar rash
>protector. $5 at Sporting Good Store. Cut slit in foam (if not already
>there). Add RBF streamers on opposite sides (for L and R wings).
I picked up a bunch of those 3 ft. long foam tubes in the pool
area at Target for $0.99 each, cut slit in them. Didn't go with the
streamers since the tubes are fluorescent colored. A bit hard to miss.
Montblack
> I picked up a bunch of those 3 ft. long foam tubes in the pool area at
> Target for $0.99 each, cut slit in them. Didn't go with the streamers
> since the tubes are fluorescent colored. A bit hard to miss.
Noodles.
IIRC, someone on the rec.newsgroup(s) was in the business of making those -
don't remember their name.
Montblack
RST Engineering
season, perhaps two. Get a FORGED head steel hammer. Those cheap Chinese
jam-togethers will come apart at the least opportune moment (like in east BF
Wyoming on a remote dragstrip when the engine decides it needs two parts
where before there was one).
Jim
"Blanche Cohen" <bla...@atlas.csd.net> wrote in message
news:e2ov8l$33hn$1...@apollo.csd.net...
Michael Horowitz
<j...@rstengineering.com> wrote:
>Instead of aluminum, use PVC water pipe. It's lighter yet and can be worked
>with simple tools.
>
>Jim
>
>
And you glue the edges or run a bolt thru both diameters? maybe a 1/2"
above ground level? - Mike