Garrett
1977 PA28-140 Cherokee Cruiser
J. Neteler
Garrett wrote in message <7iqbpp$1mt6$1...@newssvr04-int.news.prodigy.com>...
Karl
>OK folks, how do you personally remove your oil filter (mounted horizontally
>on an O-320) without letting it spill down the mount, strut and onto the
>wheel pants??? I tried stuffing rags, but does not seem to stop the
>flow...Yes, I drain the oil for about an hour prior to removing the filter,
>and it still is full....I am just tired of cleaning the mess in the engine
>bay and on the floor...thx
I cut a 1 gallon plastic milk carton in half (diagonally), wedge it
under the filter, and carefully unscrew it. Catches every drop.
I've heard of people punching a hole, and that is actually a four step
process: (1) Loosen the filter slightly (2) punch a hole in the top of
the filter (3) rotate the filter 180 degrees and put a funnel or a
drain tube under the hole you just punched and (4) punch another hole
in the top of the filter to allow the oil to drain out.
------------------------------------
Rick Potts Phoenix, Arizona
N32334 PA 28-151 Warrior
------------------------------------
Garrett,
I have good luck in cutting an L-shaped section out of the front of a
plastic 1/2 gallon milk carton. I leave a cup shaped "snout" about 8"
long that I slip under the filter and also just under the filter mount
lip. I then slip a rag under the snout to hold it up against the mount
lip. The back rests against the hoses and muffler shroud. This leaves
the carton slightly inclined away from the filter. The drain oil runs
down the snout and back into the carton. The whole affair may take a few
practice cuts to get the proper shape and depth. Since a lot of oil
drains into the carton, which is on its side with a good bit cut off,
you need to get the "snout" deep enough to fit under the filter, but not
too deep so that it won't hold the oil.
Another way to look at it is that you will cut off the handle and the
hole at the top and then some.
Good Luck,
Mike
I like the gallon milk jug cut at a 45 idea myself. I'll give that a
try next time.
Steve
1976 PA28-140 N75021
> Thanks for asking this question. I have the same problem on mine. I
> just changed mine again today, and I was sure that If I let it drain
> longer, and stuffed in more paper towels, it would work. Wrong !
>
> I like the gallon milk jug cut at a 45 idea myself. I'll give that a
> try next time.
hint: when cutting the jug and putting it in there, think about
how you will get it out without spilling the oil collected.
--
Bob
(I think people can figure out how to email me...)
(replace ihatessppaamm with my name (rnoel) and hw1 with mediaone)
Just prior to loosening the oil filter, the scupper is inserted into the
rear engine area with one end positioned just under the filter (where the
oil will leak) and the other end positioned lower and clear of the engine
area. This may take some experimenting to get the perfect alignment and
angle. I've found that just aft of the #5 (or #3 on a 4-banger) and under
the right mag will do just fine on my engine. An empty 5 gallon plastic
pail (courtesy of your local McDonalds) is placed under the open end. The
filter is then loosened just slightly so that it turns easily but no oil
escapes.
At that point, I take a Phillips screwdriver and with a rubber mallet,
create a small hole in the top of the filter, close to where the filter
attaches to the engine (and just over the scupper). The filter is then
rotated 180 degrees so that the oil begins to drip from the newly created
hole into the "V" of the channel. Once the filter's drained some of the
oil, a smaller hole is then created on the top of the filter opposite the
"drip" hole; this hole hastens the exit of any remaining oil.
Once the filter's free of oil, unscrew it completely.
BTW, you can open your filter for inspection one of two ways: buy an
expensive oil can cutter or call Harbor Freight and order a $14.95 pipe
cutter (No. 3, Item 05983-OCZA, 1-800-423-2567).
--
Evan Julber
Glasair III N540GL
to reply, remve "of course no spam"
sbr...@torac.sprintsvc.net wrote in message
<3752f2be...@news2.smatnet.net>...
>Thanks for asking this question. I have the same problem on mine. I
>just changed mine again today, and I was sure that If I let it drain
>longer, and stuffed in more paper towels, it would work. Wrong !
>
>I like the gallon milk jug cut at a 45 idea myself. I'll give that a
>try next time.
>
My "I learned about oil from that" story: Do NOT fasten a large zip-loc
freezer bag around the filter hoping that it will tidily lap up every
drop of oil. If you try it, bring lots of paper towels.
Perry
Sundowner N23824 "Oily Belle"
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Ross
C-172F
N7905U
Ross Richardson wrote in message <375418B1...@raytheon.com>...
As I recall, some aircraft supply companies (either Chief or Aircraft
Spruce & Specialty seems to ring a bell in this specific case) sell a tool
designed to punch the casing of the filter to allow it to drain while
still in position...
--
Mike
C-182 N2406R
My opinions, not Argonne's...
The last time I changed mine, I taped a plastic garbage sack to various
items (like the upper engine mounts) in a position under the filter. It
worked perfectly at first - it caught every drop of oil. Unfortunately,
I attempted to lift it out after the oil filter was removed and tore it
on something, so I wound up with a mess anyway.
The method has promise, though, and I'm going to try it again. This time
I intend to lower the bag and use a bit more care. Your aircraft may not
have as much room for this - I don't have a nose gear in the way.
George Patterson, N3162Q.
Bob
Ross