258 Ignition upgrade - FYI and question.
Clap Trap
to the team rush TFI setup that has been floating around for some time.
It's awesome! It only cost about $65 and made a noticeable improvement in
idle and acceleration. I'm still waiting to see if it helps gas mileage
any.
However, I have a question for anyone who has done this before. The cap
adaptor fits the distributor pretty well, but there is a small spot where I
can see an opening between the adaptor and the base. Everything is on and
in the correct place, there's just a gap. Is this normal? Did you silicone
it closed or use any other means to close the gap. I've run through some
pretty big water and nothing cut out so, unless I'm going to do some deep
water traveling, I don't think it is going to matter, but I thought I'd ask
about it.
Also FYI, my Scrambler has an aluminum valve cover. I could not find a
bracket to hold the TFI coil, and the coil wire was too short to go to the
fender, so, it just so happens that the valve cover has some fastener holes
in the top that are normally used for a hose bracket. Those holes line up
with the holes on the TFI coil. Since I had no need for the bracket, I just
used a couple of spacers and used those holes to mount the coil. Looks a
bit strange to see a coil on top of the valve cover, but it's way up high
and it works great.
Jianryla
<sayno...@the.net> writes:
>I could not find a
>bracket to hold the TFI coil, and the coil wire was too short to go to the
>fender, so, it just so happens that the valve cover has some fastener holes
>in the top that are normally used for a hose bracket. Those holes line up
>with the holes on the TFI coil. Since I had no need for the bracket, I just
>used a couple of spacers and used those holes to mount the coil. Looks a
>bit strange to see a coil on top of the valve cover, but it's way up high
>and it works great.
I did a similar mount on my Wrangler. I used a piece of aluminum plate to make
a shelf on top of the v/v cover. Works great!
Jim
88 Grand Wagoneer
89 Wrangler
00 Grand Cherokee
KurtS
running right. I went through every detail about 6 times and finally gave
up. The old ignition ran/runs just fine. The new coil is still bolted to the
fender so maybe I'll give it another shot when the weather warms up.
Mike Romain
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Clap Trap
on the driver side fender, yes. If you mean an engine controller/carb
controller/ECM or whatever, no, there is no computer of any kind on board
(I'm running an aftermarket Weber carb, no smog stuff on it either).
I also retained the ballast resistor. I wasn't sure if I could leave it out
because I read a couple of posts somewhere that said the ignition module
would burn out if I ran the coil at 12 volts.
"Mike Romain" <rom...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3E5D67DC...@sympatico.ca...
Paul
I mod. my engine with a similiar module (if available). '75 Engine.1 bbl
carb.
--
Paul Brogren
"Clap Trap" <sayno...@the.net> wrote in message
news:v5r14ig...@corp.supernews.com...
Paul
are your choices? Hope to hear your input. I'm thinking of doing the
ignition plus distributor.
'75 CJ5 258
Paul Brogren
"Clap Trap" <sayno...@the.net> wrote in message
news:v5r14ig...@corp.supernews.com...
Clap Trap
old harness didn't have one, it had a resistance wire instead. I've been
running the resistor and the motorcraft ignition module for about 3500 miles
so far and have had no troubles.
I have no plans for upgrading the distributor itself for a while - I've got
a couple of spares laying around so I really don't want to spend that kind
of money yet. If I were going to do it though, I'd probably get one of
those GM styles with the coil in the cap - simply cause it is cleaner
looking.
"Paul" <pibr...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:3#YTHqi3...@newsgroup.korea.com...
Mike Romain
ignition module too.
Mike
Zodiac
out
> because I read a couple of posts somewhere that said the ignition module
> would burn out if I ran the coil at 12 volts.
Boy, and how! Being the young and foolish engine rebuilder that I was
(about 5 years ago), I didn't know that the red wire to the coil was
actually resistor wire, and had a specific resistance along its length that
depended upon its ENTIRE length to avoid that actuality. I made it through
the break in period, and even on a drive from Chicago, IL to Mears, MI to
the Silver Lake Sand Dunes ORV park.
About lunchtime on Saturday I was sitting at the bottom of Allan Hill,
and the engine just died. No amount of cranking would revive it. The coil
and ignition module were SEARINGLY hot. Long story short, running the coil
at 12v smoked it, but not before it took out the ign mod too. We RACED into
downtown Mears and got a new Motorcraft bluetab ign mod and a stock coil,
and was back in the race- I drove it home that Sunday with no problems,
thank God.
I burned out that second coil before I learned why it happened, and boy
you could see my red face from across the state! I installed a two-prong
ballast resistor on the coil positive lead, and all has been well ever
since. I have also learned a little bit more about the Jeep's ign system.
:")
+-=Z=-+
Clap Trap
Some coils are designed to run with 12 volts. If you have such a coil, will
it burn out the ignition module?
"Zodiac" <n9...@NOSPAMPLZ.yahoo.dot.com> wrote in message
news:v5stift...@corp.supernews.com...
Andy W
I'm also planning on the TFI ignition upgrade. Do you know the
value/wattage of the ballast resistor or have a part number?
Thanks,
Andy W
"Zodiac" <n9...@NOSPAMPLZ.yahoo.dot.com> wrote in message
news:v5stift...@corp.supernews.com...
Mike Romain
My Accel coil can run on both.
Mike
Clap Trap
exactly what it is. I recall Mike reporting that the resistance wire is
supposed to be 1.35 ohm, so the ballast should be similar. However, I also
seem to recall reading that it was supposed to be .85 ohm. I'll be glad to
check mine for you when I get home tomorrow and let you know what it is. I
won't be able to get you a part number, but at least you'll know what
resistance to look for. Or, just go to the parts store and ask for one on a
late 70s vintage Jeep or Ford and it should be close enough.
"Andy W" <ahwa...@hot.mail.com> wrote in message
news:b3m87i$mjc$1...@web.onecall.net...
Warren Quin
terminals crimped at both ends.
The Motorcraft/ DuraSpark ignition used a resistor wire that was 47" long,
and 1.35 Ohms resistance to feed the ignition coil.
Hope this helps
--
Warren Quin
wq...@bigfoot.remove_this.com
(remove the "remove_this" to reply)
78 CJ-7 - 258, Clifford 6=8, TFI ignition, 600 Holley, Dual outlet headers,
T18A, D20, D44 rear, 8000 lb Warn on hitch plate, 2" hitch front & rear, 2"
lift, 3" body lift, 33x12.5's, K&N
"Andy W" <ahwa...@hot.mail.com> wrote in message
news:b3m87i$mjc$1...@web.onecall.net...
Warren Quin
CarQuest parts list
Coil FD478
Rotor FD118X
Cap FD151X
Cap Adapter FD155
Pigtail socket S539
Plug wires 6643
Spark plugs (6) Aut945
I'd also recommend the fender mount for the coil from a 95 or so Crown
Victoria (probably others as well but that's what I used). Mine was 4$ CDN
at the wrecker and they gave me the coil and pigtail... You just bend one
mounting tab 90 degrees and drill the two mounting holes. No muss, no
fuss...
--
Warren Quin
wq...@bigfoot.remove_this.com
(remove the "remove_this" to reply)
78 CJ-7 - 258, Clifford 6=8, TFI ignition, 600 Holley, Dual outlet headers,
T18A, D20, D44 rear, 8000 lb Warn on hitch plate, 2" hitch front & rear, 2"
lift, 3" body lift, 33x12.5's, K&N
"Warren Quin" <wq...@bigfoot.remove_this.com> wrote in message
news:iSI7a.1608$Bx5....@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
Andy W
-Andy W
"Warren Quin" <wq...@bigfoot.remove_this.com> wrote in message
news:kZI7a.1611$Bx5....@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
Mike Romain
I 'think' I measured a stock Chrysler ceramic resistor at 1.5 ohms,
could be wrong there.
With the key in 'run' and the engine off, you want about 8-9 volts
showing on the coil positive. That does depend on the sitting voltage
of the battery and I have seen them down to 7 volts with the key off. I
think I measured mine at 7 volts once.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Clap Trap
ohms. But, I'm also only getting 6.35V at the coil positive with the key in
run and the engine off. Interesting huh?
Anyway, the parts I used are:
Distributor cap adapter, Wells F960
Cap/Rotor set, Conrad F2104G
Coil, Wells C839
Wires, noname Autozone 1901
Ballast resistor, Wells AL795
All parts were obtained from AutoZone.
After reading Mike's post, I may go back and do some additional diagnostics
this weekend, it seems like 6.35V at the coil is too low. And with a lower R
ballast, that should really be higher.
At any rate, the upgrade has definitely improved idle and power.
"Mike Romain" <rom...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3E5F846C...@sympatico.ca...
Clap Trap
ohms. But, I'm also only getting 6.35V at the coil positive with the key in
run and the engine off. Interesting huh?
Anyway, the parts I used are:
Distributor cap adapter, Wells F960
Cap/Rotor set, Conrad F2104G
Coil, Wells C839
Wires, noname Autozone 1901
Ballast resistor, Wells AL795
All parts were obtained from AutoZone.
After reading Mike's post, I may go back and do some additional diagnostics
this weekend, it seems like 6.35V at the coil is too low. And with a lower R
ballast, that should really be higher.
At any rate, the upgrade has definitely improved idle and power.
"Mike Romain" <rom...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3E5F846C...@sympatico.ca...
Mike Romain
6-7 volts with the engine not running on the coil is ok from what I have
seen. It will jump up when the alternator kicks in.
Hunh...
I just went out of curiosity and checked mine and only have 3.85 volts!
I know last time I checked it a couple years ago it was over 6 volts.
I am having idle emissions issues. My emissions guy thinks I have bad
spark at low rpm and out of lack of any other ideas recommended new
plugs. (this dude is usually right on when it comes to tweaking
emissions, have been using him for lots of Jeeps in the last few years)
I jump from 16 ppm HC running at 2500 rpm up to 1585 ppm at idle....
Hmmm.... I am now thinking that maybe my ballast wire is worn out or
something is dragging the circuit down.
Well, looks like I have some connections and wires to trace....
Mike
Clap Trap
FWIW, I also pulled the Painless wiring diagram back out and reviewed it. I
dunno why I put the ballast resistor in in the first place. For the
Motorcraft ignition module, the Painless diagram doesn't include the
resistor!
O well, I think I'd better leave well enough alone for a while - it is
running so sweetly right now I don't want to mess anything up.
"Mike Romain" <rom...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3E6107CA...@sympatico.ca...
Mike Romain
mentions those Ford modules as needing the resistor on the coil. It
also can cook the distributor pickup too I believe.
I really wanted my Accel SuperCoil to put out the hottest spark
possible, but with the stock module, I did the same as you and left well
enough alone.
Now 'well enough' is messed up somehow on mine, so I will have to go
play for a while and tag it.
Mike