Michael
Westford, Vt
What kind of frame and fork are we talking about?
On May 26, 9:03 am, MichaelH <mhech...@gmail.com> wrote:
Which Nitto front rack? What kind of frame? My Nitto front rack
attaches at the fork ends and in the middle of the fork, not at the
crown. Can you get a longer bolt at a hardware store to screw into the
fork crown hole?
mark
What kind of bit would I use, if I decided to drill out the threads?
BTW, this bike is very similar to a Ramboulliet in geometry and
clearances. It's Reynolds 531, rides very nicely and may be a bit
faster going down the road than my loved Rambouillet. I bought it to
replace a SOMA Double cross for commuting, but it doesn't have the
SOMa's tire clearances, which disappoints me.
Michael
>
> To answer both questions at once. The frame is a 1984 Trek 620, which
> comes with cantis and the hole in the crown is threaded. The rack is
> the mini Nitto (M12) which Riv. sells specifically for canti set-
> ups.. The rack comes with welded tubes designed to go to either
> custom braze ons or clamps and it has a single threaded post designed,
> I presume, to go through the crown hole, much like a brake bolt, with
> nuts and washers on each side. Mine just happens to have a matching
> width and thred to the frame and can actually be threaded into the
> crown, but then I can't fit the SKS fender hanger.
Are you getting the center mount flush against the front of the fork crown?
I would reckon that might be the issue - on mine (on the quickbeam) I used a
1/4" nylon spacer to get front brake cable clearance, and still had enough
room for SKS fenders and the nut. The center mount rod flares quite a bit,
and I might've used a washer on the front if I didn't use the spacer, but
nothing more than that.
I actually put the SKS mount plate on the front, as the QB crown is
reasonably recessed in the back.
I'll take some photos later today.
> What kind of bit would I use, if I decided to drill out the threads?
A slightly larger one... ;^)
Use copious amounts of oil when drilling metal... (no smiley).
-- Jim
--
Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes
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"I thought the idea was to waste the rest of our lives together.."
-- Cyril, "Breaking Away"
I'll think about drilling out the hole because I have a slight
preverence (sight unseen) for the Nitto over the Mark's rack. Still
it looks to me like the Mark rack, which simply requires the existing
bolt to go through the rack mount will be the easier solution.
Michael
On May 27, 5:51 pm, CycloFiend <cyclofi...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> on 5/27/07 1:13 PM, MichaelH at mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
> > To answer both questions at once. The frame is a 1984 Trek 620, which
> > comes with cantis and the hole in the crown is threaded. The rack is
> > the mini Nitto (M12) which Riv. sells specifically for canti set-
> > ups.. The rack comes with welded tubes designed to go to either
> > custom braze ons or clamps and it has a single threaded post designed,
> > I presume, to go through the crown hole, much like a brake bolt, with
> > nuts and washers on each side. Mine just happens to have a matching
> > width and thred to the frame and can actually be threaded into the
> > crown, but then I can't fit the SKS fender hanger.
>
> Are you getting the center mount flush against the front of the fork crown?
> I would reckon that might be the issue - on mine (on the quickbeam) I used a
> 1/4" nylon spacer to get front brake cable clearance, and still had enough
> room for SKS fenders and the nut. The center mount rod flares quite a bit,
> and I might've used a washer on the front if I didn't use the spacer, but
> nothing more than that.
>
> I actually put the SKS mount plate on the front, as the QB crown is
> reasonably recessed in the back.
>
> I'll take some photos later today.
>
> > What kind of bit would I use, if I decided to drill out the threads?
>
> A slightly larger one... ;^)
>
> Use copious amounts of oil when drilling metal... (no smiley).
>
> -- Jim
>
> --
>
> Cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> Your Photos are needed! -http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines
>
> I'm not following you. In order to thread the the rod attached to the
> rack into the frame I have to remove the brakes and the fender,
> because i need space to turn the whole rack araound as I thread it
> in. If I leave the fender on the bike, I can't turn the rack all the
> way over to thread in the rack.
Yep, that's what I thought you were doing.
My comment concerned whether or not you were getting the flared piece of the
center mount rod up flush against the front of the fork crown.
To get all ASCII:
threads - smooth - flared
_______|\__________
///////// _______ __________
|/
(um...not to scale...)
or, are you bottoming out on the non-threaded portion _before_ the flare?
>
> I'll think about drilling out the hole because I have a slight
> preverence (sight unseen) for the Nitto over the Mark's rack. Still
> it looks to me like the Mark rack, which simply requires the existing
> bolt to go through the rack mount will be the easier solution.
It probably has a reason to exist, but those threads on the fork crown do
not seem to be helping you for this purpose.
Both Mark's and the Nitto rack are well designed. I liked (and bought) the
Nitto becuase it lined up with the braze-ons on my Quickbeam fork. It did
_not_ have to be threaded into the QB crown.
-- Jim
--
Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
I really like the way that mini rack attaches. Very clean design.
On May 27, 6:37 pm, CycloFiend <cyclofi...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> >> Use copious amounts of oil when drilling metal... (no smiley).- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Detail photos are now up on my Flickr pages -
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/
I'm not sure they really shed any light on this issue, other than to make
the claim that if I wasn't using a 1/4" spacer on the front, there'd be a
fair bit of threaded end sticking through. I'd be suprised if the
front-to-back measurement of the Trek crown was that much thicker.
'Course, I been sooprized afore...
-- Jim
--
Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes
Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines
Thanks to everyone for all the help with this.
michael
More specifically, what weight have people carried on the Riv/Nitto?
Thanks,
David
If you mean this rack: http://www.rivbike.com/webalog/baggage_racks/20075.html
, I use it on my tourer when I'm on long tours (3 so far). Very
sturdy, the mounting hardware is so sturdy and beautifully finished
you won't want to use the braze-ons in the middle of your fork even if
you have them, and over all a very nice rack. It has threaded holes
for fender stays at the bottom, and a threaded hole for a front light
at the front of the rack, both of which are really nice touches.
I use it to carry two Vaude Roadmaster panniers and my Therma-Rest, I
don't recall putting any great strain on the rack. I think the only
limitations on load will be the effect said load has on your Fat
Chance's handling.