Lights and bikes

[Mitch Friedmen]

Hey all,
so im just getting back into doing long distance cycling and im
seeking help in what everyone is using for lights now?
im also thinking of building a new bike up so what is everyone riding
now a days?

Thanks for your help,
Mitch
Los Angeles

[LyndaB]

I'm using a Schmidt Edelux headlight on a Schmidt SON 20R hub on Mavic
Open Pro rims. The Edelux throws a nice bright, wide array of light.
I ride a Soma Smoothie ES frame

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1072173&l=862d4cabdd&id=1011524134

[Rob Hawks]

Lynda and I ride different bikes, but her wheel build and light are exactly the same as mine. I like the light that the eDeluxe gives and the performance of light and hub have  been  great. Those are well made products.

rob hawks
richmond, ca

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[LyndaB]

I love the Edelux/SON combo. I put coaxial putty sealer around the
connectors and have never had any connectivity issues in the rain. It
is a very reliable setup, and worth the money!

On Mar 14, 1:11 pm, Rob Hawks <rob.ha...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Lynda and I ride different bikes, but her wheel build and light are exactly
> the same as mine. I like the light that the eDeluxe gives and the
> performance of light and hub have  been  great. Those are well made
> products.
>
> rob hawks
> richmond, ca
>

[Steve Park]

For battery powered lights, I really like the B&M Ixon IQ. Same beam
pattern as the Edelux, almost as bright, easy to mount. I like that
the battery pack is not a separate piece; it's easy to transfer
between my bikes that share the light.

and I can't say enough good things about the Edelux/SON20R combo.

[Abe Hendin]

And I've got the Supernova E3 (symmetrical beam) which I also love.
Super-bright running off my SON28 hub. Now trying to decide whether to
get the Supernova taillight or something else (using a Cateye battery
light now).

As for the bike, I've got a Rivendell Sam Hillborne 56 with a triple
24/36/46 and 8-speed 13-34 cassette, friction shifters, Mavic A719
rims (36h, cross 3), 35mm tires, stainless Velo-Orange fenders.
Serious hills are obviously not a problem with this drivetrain. Now if
only I could find more time for brevets... twins are due within a
month! ;-) I went for bulletproof wheels in large part because this is
my NYC commuter, the roads here stink, and I've never been a weight
weenie.

On Mar 14, 12:26 pm, Mitch Friedmen <mitcho...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Wesley Smith]

Sounds like a cool build. I'm in the process of building a wheelset
with a719s. I started with Velocity Fusions and found they were too
narrow for my liking. These wheels are being run on a Soma
Doublecross DC; although, I've been considering a Salsa Vaya recently.

Wes

[Ingle, Bruce]

Topic: Lights and bikes

> ...help in what everyone is using for lights now?

LEDs are the way to go these days. I've been using a homebrew LED
battery-powered light for several years, but many others use a hub
dynamo (generator) as a power source.
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/lightingsystems.htm is a good place to
start. The SON hub/ Supernova E3 light combination appears to be
popular with our local riders, but many other options are available.

Most LED taillights are fine these days...I'd suggest using some which
accept AA batteries without requiring tools to change them.

> im also thinking of building a new bike up so what is everyone
> riding now a days?

I'm pretty certain some randonneurs are riding equipment that hasn't
changed much since before your hiatus, and I don't even know how long
you were off the bike. :) Showing up on something that is comfortable,
reliable and functioning properly is most important. I'd suggest doing
that to start, then changing your equipment as necessary to correct any
obvious deficiencies.

- Bruce

[Charles Lathe]

Hey Mitch,

I'm using a SON 28 hub -- it's wider than the SON 20 and makes a
stronger, though heavier, wheel -- and I'm still using the E6 halogen
lamp. I did ride all night with a Supernova lamp and was impressed
with the brightness of the beam. However, I already have the E6 and
the beam from the E6 is sufficient for me in rural areas. The big
advantage I see in the Supernova or Edlux is the ability to use them
as daylight running lights without burning through bulbs. When I do
upgrade to an LED lamp, it will be for the daylight running ability.
I've seen other riders doing this and it is an eye-catching light
during the day. The battery lights are good and getting better and
better, but I note that their users ration their use whereas I can
light my beam earlier, run it later, put it on in low light
conditions, and still know that I have power to run it all night. The
LED lamps are even better for this.

Bicycle? The Red Randonneuse, of course.

Regards, Chuck Lathe
Franklinville, NC

On Mar 14, 12:26 pm, Mitch Friedmen <mitcho...@gmail.com> wrote:

[joekr...@comcast.net]

I've had good success with front lights using the Dinotte LED lighting systems.  They offer battery operated models that use Lion rechargeable  and AA systems as well.  For occasional use the AA models are ideal.  You can leave them sit around for months and just pop in fresh batteries and go.  Also on long night rides replacement batteries are available at almost any store.  For frequent use I have two of the Lion models; a 200W and a 600W.  The 200W is easy to switch from one bike to the next so I use it for commuting and brevets.  The 600W is a new aquisition which I hope to use on brevets with lots of night riding.  It is a very bright light with three brightness settings.  The low or medium is good for most riding, but on fast descents it is easy to switch it to high.  The run time on the batteries are quite good.  

For rear lights I've had the best results with the Planet Bike AA powered tail light.  It's as bright as anything with long run times.  Inexpensive as well.  It can short out in the rain, but wrapping electrical tape around the seal seems to solve the problem. 

Good luck.

Joe Kratovil
New Jersey

[Robert Leone]

Dear Randons:

I'm using a Cateye 530 on the handlebars forward, a Planet Bike
Superflash hard-mounted with a rack bracket and a p-clamp on the rack on
the back. As the rack on the back has a rounded rear end and doesn't
have the two screws a lot of the Tubus and other racks have, I had to
use the p-clamp. That's on the bike.

I've an older Princeton Tec EOS on the helmet, and a small amber
VistaLite clone supposedly from Everready on the back of the helmet,
loosely mounted via the elastic band held to the helmet by velcro straps.

I also carry, but do not mount, a Planet Bike blinkie-7, the same
general shape as the SuperFlash, as a spare.

That said, I must emphasize that this is my own individual practice. It
is not what others, with very good reason, would consider optimal or
perhaps even adequate, although the individual lights and the
combinations do meet or surpass both State (of California) and RUSA
rules, laws and regulations.

Worst light setup seen on a brevet: None. Really. Those two guys took a
lot longer than they thought they would on the first 200 km of about
four years ago, and just managed to get to the last bike shop before the
finish just before the shop closed to buy lights. Second worst was
actually a whole lot better, a SuperFlash on the back, but the headlight
was a venerable old halogen 4xAA battery operated VistaLite RoadToad. I
could barely see that guy following me up a grade featuring scary dense
fog and mist.

That said, with all this battery stuff, I shall say here that if you're
contemplating longer distances with lots of night riding, please
consider hub based generator systems, either on a freshly purchased bike
or as a retrofit onto your favored bike. The new LED headlights for the
generator systems are a game changer, as much as the lower end LED
headlights for commuters. I do use a generator light on my commute bike
(it came with a hub generator), and the output of the relatively low-end
LED headlight I've refitted it with (because getting the right bulbs for
the original incandescent headlamp was a pain and changing them in the
dark even more of a pain) is easily twice as perceptibly bright as the
CatEye 530.

Special note: PLEASE hard-mount your light directly to something solid
on the bike, especially the rear light. Seatstay, seatpost, rack,
whatever. PLEASE. If you just clip it, or even zip-tie it, to bike
luggage, the fabric will slump, wilt, pull, jiggle or whatever, and your
rear lights will deliver much of their light to the ground, the trees
nearby, the International Space Station, whatever.

Robert Leone

[albert meerscheidt]

It can short out in the rain, but wrapping electrical tape around the seal seems to solve the problem. 

That's exactly what happened to my planet bike super flash on PBP. A real pain when I had to find another light at one of the controls (I wasw down to one rear light at the time) Once it dried the super flash worked fine. The batteries last long enough that taking off the electrical tape is no big deal.

Albert 

--
Thanks,

Albert
albert.me...@gmail.com
webm...@seattlerando.org

[Steve Park]

On bikes, the Boulder Bicycles Randonneur looks good. It's a
Waterford frame with many practical aspects for randonneuring.
Reviews are positive. If I didn't already have a good bike, I'd get
one.

On Mar 14, 12:26 pm, Mitch Friedmen <mitcho...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Ingle, Bruce]

Topic: Lights and bikes

> Once it dried the super flash worked fine

Mine never recovered after it got wet, so I won't be buying another...I
prefer taillights for AA cells anyway.

- Bruce

[Kevin Foust]

I always mount two of the Superflashes.  I like the brightness and battery life, but they can be a little fragile, hence the pair mounted.  One of my Superflashes flaked in the rain as well.  Once it dried it came back working fine.  I've also applied the electrical tape fix.

For general lighting I am running a SON28 with a Supernova E3 symetrical and Supernova taillight.  This is on a commuter/brevet bike which gets a lot of hard mileage.  I have no time for messing around with or even thinking about keeping batteries charged on a daily rider like that bike, which is why I run the dynamo system.  In addition, I have a 4xAA Dinotte mounted on the rear for times when I'm in dense traffic areas and really want to light up.  I have been told by following riders that the Supernova taillight is as bright as the DiNotte, however, the DiNotte emits a much more focused narrower beam so from a distance I believe that the DiNotte will still be the brightness winner.

- Bruce

[WMdeR]

Dear Mitch,

I'll agree with the others who have posted on the Schmidt 20R and the B
+M Cyo "sport" headlight, preferably combined with a wired Seculite
rear light. I've used the Schmidt dynohubs since 1999, and have had
good luck with them. I'm on my second year riding with the Cyo Sport
(my wife has the Fly IQ with the same optics. The Edelux uses the Cyo/
Fly IQ optic as well), and it is a huge step forward in usable light
compared to 3/6W halogen bulb systems and symmetric-pattern LED
lights, based on the testing we (Jan Heine, Mike Kone, and I)
performed for the Bicycle Quarterly.

The best bike to start with is the one you have if it fits you well.
What bike you ultimately come to prefer is going to depend pretty
strongly on where you ride, your place in the "Big Tent" of
randonneuring, and with whom you ride and take cues. I don't think
there's a broad consensus yet on the "optimum" brevet machine. I'd
point you to the RUSA handbook for a primer, and follow that
recommendation up with a subscription to the Bicycle Quarterly, which
discusses real-world cycling in some detail.

I've ridden brevets happily on loaded touring bikes (not ideal for me,
but still a wonderful ride), stripped-down road racing bikes (better
fit and performance, but didn't love all the zipties, the half-
fenders, and plastic brackets, or getting lost frequently. I
eventually bodged a map holder and handlebar bag onto the bike), and
integrated cyclotouring machines. I personally have come to prefer a
machine optimized around a light front handlebar bag, full fenders,
internal wiring for
hub-generator lighting, 30-622 tires, and relatively modern (7-10 rear
cog) shifting systems.

A counterpoint: most riders here in Colorado are riding some kind of
road-racing bike, with battery lights, clip-on aerobars, a camelback,
and a large wedge pack. If it is raining at the start, some will
attach clip-on fenders. Integrated machines have become more popular
as people turn their bikes over.

Others will have come to their own conclusions. So should you! We're
all ultimately an experiment of one. Come on out! I look forward to
seeing you on the road.

Disclosure: I did some unpaid consulting work for Mike Kone at Rene
Herse Bicycles. I tested lighting systems and 650B bike prototypes
for the Boulder Bicycle project. Both Mike and Jan Heine are
friends. I've contributed to the Bicycle Quarterly from time to
time. I've no financial interest in either of their enterprises.

Best Regards,

Will

William M. deRosset
RUSA 2401
Fort Collins, CO

[WillemJ]

As for the different SON hubs, I thnk there seems to be some
confusion. The classic hub is of course the SON 28. WIth the advent of
led lights people have become interested in the similarly built SON 20
as well. Externally identical to the SON 28, it is optimized for use
with smaller 20 inch wheels. People discovered that if you use the SON
20 in a 26 or 28 inch wheel you may have less output at lower speeds,
but you will also have less resistance, both with the light off and
with the light on. With led lights the lower output has very little
pratical consequence since these lights produce a lot of light already
at lower speeds. As of late, SOn also offers a different hub for 20
inch wheels, the son 20R. This is a descendent of the SON XS, and is
lighter but also narrower than the ordinary SON 20. As of late this
SON 20 R is has been renamed the SONdelux. Unless you also want to
charge gadgets I think the 20 inch hubs are now the way to go. On a
tandem of a loaded tourer I would choose the older SON 20, on a rando
bike I would not hesitate to use the SONdelux, unless of course the
rider is really overweight.
Willem

[WMdeR]

As for the different SON hubs, I thnk there seems to be some

> confusion...

<more information by Willem at bottom of post on various Schmidt hub
models.>

Dear Willem,

Right you are, and thank you for the clarification. I did not clarify
which SON hubs I'd used in my post or defined why I'd prefer the SON
20R/delux among the hub generators available to a cyclotourist in the
USA.

I've used the SON 28 (1st generation), SON 28 (Second generation), and
SON 20R. The 1st generation SON (1999) quit working after two years
due to an internal short and took a spa trip to Germany in 2001/2
sometime. It was rebuilt and is still in use on my brother's commuter
in Burlington, VT.

I've had two second-generation SON28's. The first I sold when I went
to LED front lights and didn't need the additional low-speed output of
the SON 28 (or its attendant high-speed drag and 190g) for my
randonneuring machine. It had around 20,000mi/32,000Km on it, and was
running fine. The second is still in use on my wife's commuting
bike.

I've got three SON 20R's. They've all been reliable to date. The one
with the most mileage on it only has about 4,500mi/7,200Km on it. The
narrower bracing angle of the SON 20R's flange spacing hasn't been an
issue for my 11stone (dressed) and 5-10lb handlebar bag load, even for
offroad (light singletrack) use, but I ride wide tires and don't tend
to damage equipment while riding.

If I were building an expedition tourer, a tandem, were hard on
wheels, or if I weighed more than 90Kg/14stone, I'd strongly consider
using a SON 20, which shares the reduced drag (and lower output) of
the SON 20R with the wider flange spacing (and greater weight) of the
SON 28. I've seen photos of a vaporware wide-flange SON 20R that may
come onto the market later this year. I'd consider one of those once
they become publicly available.

I wouldn't even think twice about updating to a shaped-beam LED
headlight. Combined with the Schmidt dynohub, it represents a true
revolution in reliability and performance for overnight riding.
Shading into personal preference, of the five I've tested directly
(Supernova E3, a proprietary twin-beam René Herse light, B+M Cyo
Sport, B+M Cyo R, Edelux, B+M Fly IQ), the B+M Cyo Sport (the Schmidt
Edelux and Fly IQ share the same optical system) pattern was the most
pleasant to ride at sporting speeds. The Cyo R lacked sufficient
throw for high-speed descents (though filled in the near-field), and
the single-emitter symmetrical-beam light blinded oncoming traffic and
lacked the gradual transitions and even illumination of the shaped
beam lights. The single-emitter symmetrical beam was impressively
bright, but difficult to aim properly given its beam shape. I'm
looking forward to testing the E3 asymmetric beam once I can borrow
one to test.

Of the three generator-powered LED headlights that share the IQ
optical system, the Cyo Sport has an ordinary form factor in black
plastic, is well-protected from the elements, and costs half as much
as the Edelux (in the USA). I added a stem-cap switch to my machines,
and no longer toggle the difficult-to-reach and use switch. According
to my bikepacking friends, the switch will get clogged with mud and
grit, eventually, if you use the bike offroad.

The Edelux is shiny, elegant-looking, has a better switch, and is more
expensive. There was a small rash of Edelux failures due to moisture
buildup reported in this forum last year. I don't notice a difference
in light output between these two lights, though the advertising
literature claimed the Edelux puts out more light.

The Fly IQ is strangely shaped and has been superseded by the Cyo
lights, though it does incorporate a front reflector.

Best Regards,

Will

William M. deRosset
RUSA 2401
Fort Collins, CO

On Mar 15, 1:44 pm, WillemJ <willem.jong...@gmail.com> wrote:

- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

> > Dear Mitch,

> > Best Regards,

> > Will

[Bill Gobie]

On Mar 15, 2010, at 2:47 PM, WMdeR wrote:

> As for the different SON hubs, I thnk there seems to be some
>

>> confusion...
...

> Right you are, and thank you for the clarification. I did not clarify
> which SON hubs I'd used in my post or defined why I'd prefer the SON
> 20R/delux among the hub generators available to a cyclotourist in the
> USA.

Just to clarify/muddy, the SON 20R was renamed the delux to remove the
implication that it is suitable only for 20"-wheeled bikes. The delux
is plenty adequate to power an LED headlight in a large-wheel bike.

Other SON variations are: SON28, nowadays overkill for powering an
LED headlight but what you should use if you intend to use one of the
power-converter gadgets for charging batteries or powering GPSs and
phones, etc.; SON XS, for 70 & 74 mm spaced front dropouts; and SON XS
100, which is an XS with a wider axle for 100 mm dropouts. The
attraction of an XS 100 is its 40 mm flange spacing, providing reduced
spoke drag in a conventional size wheel.

Here is Schmidt's site. Most of it is in German, but it's not
difficult to figure out the specs and charts. There is a page in
English about the delux:

http://www.nabendynamo.de/produkte/dynamos.html

> If I were building an expedition tourer, a tandem, were hard on
> wheels, or if I weighed more than 90Kg/14stone, I'd strongly consider
> using a SON 20, which shares the reduced drag (and lower output) of
> the SON 20R with the wider flange spacing (and greater weight) of the
> SON 28. I've seen photos of a vaporware wide-flange SON 20R that may
> come onto the market later this year. I'd consider one of those once
> they become publicly available.

Is the SON20 still made? There is no reference to it on Schmidt's
site now.

>
> Of the three generator-powered LED headlights that share the IQ
> optical system, the Cyo Sport has an ordinary form factor in black
> plastic, is well-protected from the elements, and costs half as much
> as the Edelux (in the USA). I added a stem-cap switch to my machines,
> and no longer toggle the difficult-to-reach and use switch. According
> to my bikepacking friends, the switch will get clogged with mud and
> grit, eventually, if you use the bike offroad.

Or on-road with the light mounted near axle height on the fork.
Flying spray & grit from the front wheel gets all over the light. I
can tell there is plenty of dirt in my recumbent's Cyo Sport's
switch. Whether the dirt will eventually cause a problem remains to
be seen.

I also have a Cyo Sport on my upright, mounted below the handlebars.
Comparing the two bikes, I think the beam pattern is better suited for
mounting at fork-crown height or lower. YMMV.

Bill Gobie

[russell...@yahoo.com]

SON28 153 Euro http://www.starbike.com/php/product_info.php?lang=en&pid=7960
SON20delux 175 Euro http://www.starbike.com/php/product_info.php?lang=en&pid=11086
Shimano DH-3N80 73 Euro http://www.starbike.com/php/product_info.php?lang=en&pid=10636

SON Edelux light 130 Euro http://www.starbike.com/php/product_info.php?lang=en&pid=11051
Busch & Mueller Lumotec IQ CYO N 66 Euro
http://www.starbike.com/php/product_info.php?lang=en&pid=11493

I just bought two Busch to go on my older Shimano generator hub and a
Shimano hub and Busch for a friend. StarBike also sells rims and
spokes so you can get everything you need for a wheel build from one
source for a very low price. I went with a DT rim and it built up so
easy and nice. Unlike crappy Mavic garbage rims.

[Dark Horse]

I have a hi/lo LED system on the front, throwing 310 and ~575lm in an
11deg spot. Road signs become visible at roughly a mile, and critter
eyes light up nicely.
Dynamo is a SON28 (disc) in a perfectly ordinary DT RR1.1. Rear lights
are PB superflashen, two permanently mounted, and one clipped onto the
Nelson flap for long night rides. I had the rain trouble with these
once, added tape, and not since. Battery life is more than acceptable.

Dark Horse

[WillemJ]

The SON 20 does indeed not seem to be made anymore. I checked a couple
of months ago when it was still on the Schmidt website, but it has
since disappeared. I have also seen pictures of a SONdelux version
with flanges that are further apart, for a stronger wheel.
Willem

[adige...@gmail.com]

Are you suggesting that the SONdelux mounted on a 27inch wheel, will
not be able to provide sufficient power to an Edelux front light and a
GPS through a E-Werk converter by BM?

> > Fort Collins, CO- Hide quoted text -

[Steve Palincsar]

On Tue, 2010-03-16 at 16:06 -0700, adige...@gmail.com wrote:
> Are you suggesting that the SONdelux mounted on a 27inch wheel, will
> not be able to provide sufficient power to an Edelux front light and a
> GPS through a E-Werk converter by BM?

At what speed?

[Kole Kantner]

At average speeds above 16kph it should be fine.  I never have any problems running the lights 100% of the time and charging up a dead Garmin to full in around 6 hours.  I think my speed is probably nearer to 15mph, though.  I have heard that above about 16kph the SON20R puts out the full 3 watts.  I do notice that my eDelux is dimmer when the batteries are not fully charged on the Garmin.  Sometimes I put a switch in the charger so it can be turned off to get the most light on slow climbs.  I have also occasionally turned off the charger at night and turned off the light in the day time to charge the Garmin.  However, with questionable protection circuits I don't do that since it is hard to gauge when the Garmin charge tapers and stops putting enough load on the hub to damp the damaging high voltage spikes at speeds above 25mph.

--Kole--

[adige...@gmail.com]

Lets say a mean of 12.5mph-13mph. Hills 5-7mph, Flats 15mph or more

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

---

[Steve Palincsar]

On Tue, 2010-03-16 at 20:51 -0400, adige...@gmail.com wrote:
> Lets say a mean of 12.5mph-13mph. Hills 5-7mph, Flats 15mph or more

I think there's a chance on hills power would be insufficient.

[WillemJ]

Schmidt themselves suggest that the SON28 is to be preferred for slow
riding or battery charging (plus heavy mechanical duty use such as in
a tandem). If you want to charge batteries when riding slowly, the
argument applies even more, of course. In my own experience riding
slowly by itself is not enough of a problem, and I don't charge
batteries.
Willem

On Mar 17, 2:01 am, Steve Palincsar <palin...@his.com> wrote:

[elgeneralsv]

Man I was looking for this thread in the wrong forum... there are
alot of similar threads about lighting and bikes. I have two bikes a
Specialized Hardrock for commuting purposes and a Surly LHT (I built
it really nice and try not to commute on it, but it's such a nice
bike) for lighting I use a Shimano Hub generator it's a bit cheaper
than the SON hub, I haven't had any issues with any of my 2 Shimano
Dynamo hubs. I use a Supernova E3 triple I love it it's super bright
when I need it to be and the standlight is pretty decent compared to
the Busch Muller IQ Fly. I like the Supernova guarantee also. I
bought both styles of the E3 Taillight, the seatpost option, and the
rack mount version. The tail light is super bright it gets brighter
faster than the headlamp after the standlight has been on for a
while. I don't think Supernova thought the anti-theft protection
enough because you have to disconnect the light from the hub, and tail
light leaving you with alot of wire which can be problematic if you
didn't leave space in your panniers for the excess wire. Also you
can't turn the light off when it's in stand light mode, I'd like the
Supernova more if I could turn the light off, turn it back on when I
need it. All in all I think there are some really good ideas in this
thread.

[Ingle, Bruce]

Topic: Lights and bikes

One thought I just had...with all the recent research into energy
harvesting, I expect the next generation of dynamos will probably rely
on road vibration as a power source (with a battery backup to smooth
power fluctuations) rather than wheel rotation, since road vibration is
a rather abundant source of energy. An energy-harvesting shock absorber
for heavy vehicles has already been developed.

Advantages would include zero net power loss, normal wheel
interchangeability (the dynamo could be frame- or fork-mounted) and
possibly improved rider comfort (since the dynamo could help damp road
vibrations).

A simple version of this would be a "shaking flashlight" linear dynamo
with the mass suspended by a couple of springs and oriented for vertical
travel. I have a couple of these at home, so I may try modifying one
sometime.

- Bruce

[Greg Merritt]

Le Mar 19, 2010 à 6:30, "Ingle, Bruce" <Bruce...@gdc4s.com> a
écrit :

> I expect the next generation of dynamos will probably rely
> on road vibration as a power source

> ...

> Advantages would include zero net power loss

How do you figure the something-for-nothing bit?

-Greg

[Ingle, Bruce]

> How do you figure the something-for-nothing bit?

 

It's energy normally wasted by certain dissipative components (e.g. tires, frame, saddle) or the rider's muscles -- normally the energy is converted to heat, and the heat is dissipated by airflow over the component or rider.

 

When the energy can be recovered as electricity instead, it can be used as a power source.

 

I may have oversimplified the construction as a passive component that can be strapped to the bike; it may require integration into a shock fork or shock seatpost instead.  However, there should be quite a bit more energy available from energy harvesting than a typical hub dynamo consumes.

 

The power output from energy harvesting is quite a bit "dirtier" than that available from a hub dynamo or battery, but modern electronics coupled with a small battery or capacitor can compensate for this.

 

One commonly-available form of energy harvesting that predates microelectronics is the self-winding watch.  If you strap one of these to a bike in the proper orientation and ride the bike regularly, it should never require winding.

 

- Bruce

[lj mangin]

I found this company while surfing the web, one of the recharging methods for their battery is road vibration from a car, among others.

http://www.infinitepowersolutions.com/product 

--

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[Ken Freeman]

This is mainly an energy storage and power management technology, not a generator technology.

--
Ken Freeman
Ann Arbor, MI USA

[PeskyZephyr]

If you're considering combining the Supernova headlight with other
brands of dynamo tail lights, take care and check compatibility
thoroughly. Indeed, I'm disappointed with the Supernova's
reliability. The first one I bought failed in a very short time, just
a few weeks of commuting, apparently because it will be damaged if, as
i did, use it in combination with a B&M seculite tail light.
Supernova gives no warning of incompatibility in the instruction
leaflet which came with the light and my bike shop (Abbotsford Cycles
in Melbourne) was apparently wrongly advised that the combination
would work well. Within a couple of weeks the light began to flicker
at speed and then ran intermittently.

Abbotsford replaced the headlight (without hesitation) and I bought a
Supernova tail light to run with the new unit. Again after very
little use, the new light is giving problems. This time it's internal
moisture condensation on the led units and the reflector following
three days of showery weather, only three days and definitely not of
anything like constant rain! Not only does the condensation reduce
the intensity of the light, the moisture seems to have caused failure
of the stand light. I fear that the main circuitry will be next.

I understand that small manufacturers face special problems with
product development and quality assurance. I hope that Supernova
makes the grade eventually. In the meantime, however, I need a
reliable light so I'll replace it with the B&M Cyo+ which I was
already using on my other long distance bike. The Cyo may not be
quite as bright as the Supernova but it projects a better beam shape
and has proven very reliable during a year of use, including repeated
exposure to heavy rain.

By the way, I run these and other lights with the Son 28, the Son 20
and the Son 20R hubs. All have been great - plenty of power and
reliable over the 10 years since i bought my first one.

Audax langa, Vita Brevets,

Bob

On Mar 15, 9:46 am, Abe Hendin <ays.li...@gmail.com> wrote:
> And I've got theSupernovaE3 (symmetrical beam) which I also love.
> Super-bright running off my SON28 hub. Now trying to decide whether to
> get theSupernovataillight or something else (using a Cateye batterylightnow).
>
> As for the bike, I've got a Rivendell Sam Hillborne 56 with a triple
> 24/36/46 and 8-speed 13-34 cassette, friction shifters, Mavic A719
> rims (36h, cross 3), 35mm tires, stainless Velo-Orange fenders.
> Serious hills are obviously not a problem with this drivetrain. Now if
> only I could find more time for brevets... twins are due within a
> month! ;-) I went for bulletproof wheels in large part because this is
> my NYC commuter, the roads here stink, and I've never been a weight
> weenie.

[elgeneralsv]

On Mar 23, 1:34 am, PeskyZephyr <bobdor...@westnet.com.au> wrote:
> If you're considering combining the Supernova headlight with other
> brands of dynamo tail lights, take care and check compatibility
> thoroughly. Indeed, I'm disappointed with the Supernova's
> reliability.  

Just like to point out that you mixed the Supernova headlight with a
different type of tail light.
I use the Supernova head/tail light combo without any problems.

> Supernova gives no warning of incompatibility in the instruction
> leaflet which came with the light and my bike shop (Abbotsford Cycles
> in Melbourne)

When was this? my Instruction page had it written in easy to read
title font...

> Abbotsford replaced the headlight (without hesitation) and I bought a
> Supernova tail light to run with the new unit.  Again after very
> little use, the new light is giving problems.  This time it's internal
> moisture condensation on the led units and the reflector following
> three days of showery weather,

which supernova light is this? did you contact Supernova? they are
on Facebook... Iam using the Supernova E3 triple with the seatpost
tail light at the moment...
Iam also using a Shimano Dynamo which produces an AC current as
opposed to DC which I understand is the SON output. It is especially
good practice to make sure since Supernova is a DC light that when you
connect the headlight to tail light that a. the wires are not touching
each other or anything that can short out the wire. b. Make sure you
connected the wires properly... the Supernova tail light has it's own
set of wires which should match up to the headlights tail light
wires...

[Ron Selby]

With regard to this:

> Iam also using a Shimano Dynamo which produces an AC current as
> opposed to DC which I understand is the SON output.

The SON output is A.C.

Ron

[ligh...@harbornet.com]

the Shimano hub has one of the terminals connected to ground internally. This allows the possibility running one wire to operate the lights and using the frame for a ground without externally grounding the second terminal.

Single wire operation of lights was always trouble prone even in the days when lights were incandescent and power came from the DC battery. With modern lights with electronic components single wire operation should definitely be avoided.

That being said it does not really matter whether one terminal is grounded as in the Shimano or neither is grounded as in the SON. In some cases where the light unit is grounded through the mounting of the light the same wiring configuration might work with the SON but not with the Shimano but this would be due to not observing the correct polarity of the connections.

--- selb...@gmail.com wrote:

[kevin foley]

Recently, a friend and I re-connected a spade connector to one of the leads from a Schmidt E6 set to my SON hub which had come loose from the crimp connection. Well, once we did this, one light worked but the other did not. I later replaced the bulb and turned the crank once and the light burned brightly, then promptly blew. I tried several things to repair the connection but no dice. I repeated the attempt by replacing the bulb, again, it happened. One light on, the other off, with an obviously blown bulb. 

 

Has this happened to anyone? I would like to see anyone's suggestion before sending it to Peter White.

On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 10:31 AM, <ligh...@harbornet.com> wrote:

the Shimano hub has one of the terminals connected to ground internally.  This allows the possibility running one wire to operate the lights and using the frame for a ground without externally grounding the second terminal.

Single wire operation of lights was always trouble prone even in the days when lights were incandescent and power came from the DC battery.  With modern lights with electronic components single wire operation should definitely be avoided.

That being said it does not really matter whether one terminal is grounded as in the Shimano or neither is grounded as in the SON.  In some cases where the light unit is grounded through the mounting of the light the same wiring configuration might work with the SON but not with the Shimano but this would be due to not observing the correct polarity of the connections.

--

Kevin Foley/KF6YUF/PBP Ancien 2007
kfo...@munchin.org

 __o
`\<,
*)/(*)


“Smile, breathe and go slowly.”
- Thich Nhat Hanh

[ligh...@harbornet.com]

Have you double checked whether you are using the correct replacement bulbs?  For example, I would expect this type of failure if you installed a 10 watt halogen bulb instead of the 2.4 or 3 Watt bulb this system is designed for.

 

Lightman

--- kevin...@gmail.com wrote:

[PeskyZephyr]

The two supernova units were obtained in August and October last
year. Both came with the same leaflet.

Panel 5 is headed "Compatiobility". In a table under "Rear Lights"
it says:

"Supernova rear light - 3 minutes standlight.
LED rear light with integrated stand light - Stand light time does
not change
Incandescent rear light - None! - incandescents are too
inefficient."

That strongly implies that the Headlight is compatible with other LED
taillights. I can see no other information about tail light
compatibility. (For the sake of completeness, I will add that a note
at the bottom of the table warns that the Supernova tail light does
not comply with German regulations and also states that the headlight
can be run without a taillight.)
I am very careful in wiring up lights. I have not mixed up the
polarity of the wires. I have used insulated connectors and placed
them so that they do not sit side by side. There is no chance of
short circuit. After three weeks of very dry weather moisture is still
clearly evident over the LED units and the reflector unit, even after
3 weeks of very dry weather. I think this condensation has caused the
failure of the standlight. The head light is not mounted upside down,
nor was the bike turned upside down. The light is mounted high above
the front mudguard. Direct water ingress should not be the cause of
the moisture.

I see no point in contacting Supernova. Abbotsford cycles offered to
replace the second light. I declined because I want a reliable unit.
I will send the failed light back to them and no doubt it will be
passed on to the Australian importers and then to Supernova.

Since posting my first comments about this a few days ago I have been
informed that there have been condensation problems with Supernova
lights. On Supernova's website I can see no acknowledgement of this or
other problems which apparently have also beset their lights.

I should add that Abbotsford Cycles in Melbourne have ben really
superb in responding to my problems with these lights. They are out
of stock of my preferred replacement, the Cyo, and so are the
Australian importers. Abbotsford contacted other retailers on my
behalf, found one with stocks of the Cyo and arranged for one to be
sent to me at no cost. Now that's service.

Cheers,

Bob

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>  __o
> `\<,
> *)/(*)
> “Smile, breathe and go slowly.”
> - Thich Nhat Hanh
>
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