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Cost per square for tear-off

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Richard W. Lourette

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Aug 7, 1992, 5:34:34 PM8/7/92
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Our roof needs replacing. It is in very bad shape, and should have been
replaced long ago. We just purchased the house, or I would have done
something about it long ago.

I don't want to re-roof over the two existing roofs. I am looking for a
fair price per square for a tear off and re-roof. I would need to add
new vents, but don't want them included in the per square price. I
believe that most companies have fixed prices for installing them
anyway. Most of the roof is at a 10/12 pitch, which I would expect to
add to the cost. There is 41 square of roofing required with 3 square
for ridge caps. Can anyone out there give me a fair price per square
that I can use as a comparison to roofing estimates that I get from
contractors.

Assume $20 per square for the cost of material per square. I live in
Rochester, NY, so I think cost of living is about average for the
country. Thanks in advance.

Rich

Douglas Rand

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Aug 10, 1992, 7:47:23 AM8/10/92
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A rough measure is to double the cost of roofing without the
removal. It costs a fair amount to dispose of the waste shingles
and it is a fair amount of labor. I highly recommend it if you
already have two layers --- many places won't allow a third anyway.

One caution. After this work is done, go around carefully looking
for roofing nails. Even careful work results in pounds of nails and
shingle fragments being scattered around.
--
Douglas S. Rand <dr...@osf.org> OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail: 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142
Disclaimer: I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ

Topher Eliot

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Aug 10, 1992, 6:57:59 PM8/10/92
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In article <DRAND.92A...@spinner.osf.org>, dr...@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand) writes:
|> One caution. After this work is done, go around carefully looking
|> for roofing nails. Even careful work results in pounds of nails and
|> shingle fragments being scattered around.

A long time ago there was a little writeup in Fine Homebuilding about a
technique for controlling debris during tear-offs. These folks used a couple
of 2x4s leaning against the roof, and perhaps some little pieces of lumber to
get the 2x4s positioned properly, with a tarp stretched between them, to
guide the shingles down to another tarp on the ground. They said that with
this in place, they could offer their customers a 'Dixie Cup' guarantee --
they wouldn't be able to find enough debris on the ground to fill a dixie cup.

Sorry, I can't remember exactly how they suspended the tarp so that stuff
wouldn't go under the top edge.

--
Topher Eliot Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371 el...@dg-rtp.dg.com {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist. Send mail to house-...@dg-rtp.dg.com
"You're going to banana-whip me? I don't think I've ever been banana-whipped."

Douglas Rand

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Aug 11, 1992, 5:50:40 AM8/11/92
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In article <1992Aug10....@dg-rtp.dg.com> el...@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:

In article <DRAND.92A...@spinner.osf.org>, dr...@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand) writes:
|> One caution. After this work is done, go around carefully looking
|> for roofing nails. Even careful work results in pounds of nails and
|> shingle fragments being scattered around.

A long time ago there was a little writeup in Fine Homebuilding about a
technique for controlling debris during tear-offs. These folks used a couple
of 2x4s leaning against the roof, and perhaps some little pieces of lumber to
get the 2x4s positioned properly, with a tarp stretched between them, to
guide the shingles down to another tarp on the ground. They said that with
this in place, they could offer their customers a 'Dixie Cup' guarantee --
they wouldn't be able to find enough debris on the ground to fill a dixie cup.

It's all very nice, and the guys who did my roof did exactly that kind of
thing. I would have been real happy with a dixie cup. I got more like a
2 liter bottle of debris. Maybe a dixie cup or five of nails.

Jeff Zais

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Aug 12, 1992, 9:33:27 AM8/12/92
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In article <1992Aug7.2...@kodak.kodak.com>,
r...@tornado.kodak.com (Richard W. Lourette) writes:
>
>
I've just had a roof put on our 100 year old Victorian home in Wisconsin.
It had cedar shakes covered by two layers of asphalt shingles. The house
is about 28 squares worth, and the garage is an additional 10 squares. The
slope is similar to your 10/12. We got three estimates: $160, $175,
and $200 (per square pricing). We went with the lowest bid since we were
confident Kevin would do a quality job. The price includes tear-off, new
3/8 plywood over the old roof boards (which have spaces between), and
installation of 25 year shingles. Kevin is putting in new vents for us
at no extra charge.

Kevin normally puts on "20 year" shingles, but a roofer we know convinced
us that the "25 year" shingles are better (but he said to make sure that
you go by the weight of the shingle, and not just the year rating - ours
are about 240 pounds/square, where the "20 year" are typically
225 pounds/square). Owens-Corning didn't have 25 year shingles in asphalt,
so we ended up with Fiberglass shingles, which I hope will be OK.

On the positive side, I've been able to use Kevin's scaffolding to put in new
rain gutters. This has made installation much easier. Also, tearing off the
old roof made the 50 or so bats living in our attic decide to fly off and
find another home. We hope to keep things sealed up and keep our attic
bat-free from now on.

We also put a roof on a house in California that we sold (split the cost
with the buyers). That was a 24 square job with a low slope, but also
included a tear-off of shakes and asphalt, and installation of plywood
and new shingles. The lowest estimate there was about $200/square.


Jeff

je...@cray.com

Gary Heston

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Aug 18, 1992, 10:44:17 PM8/18/92
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je...@cray.com (Jeff Zais) writes:
[ about his roofing job ]

> Kevin normally puts on "20 year" shingles, but a roofer we know convinced
> us that the "25 year" shingles are better (but he said to make sure that
> you go by the weight of the shingle, and not just the year rating - ours
> are about 240 pounds/square, where the "20 year" are typically
> 225 pounds/square). Owens-Corning didn't have 25 year shingles in asphalt,
> so we ended up with Fiberglass shingles, which I hope will be OK.

Heck yeah! Fiberglass is lighter weight than asphalt, and more durable.
Your 240 lb shingles are probably twice as thick as the 225 lb asphalt
ones; they'll give you a much better roof.

The fact that O-C doesn't have 25 year shingles in asphalt should give
you a hint about the relative durability. I'd pick Fiberglass in any
case over asphalt.

Gary Heston, at home....
ga...@cdthq.uucp

Peter Brooks

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Aug 19, 1992, 12:53:00 PM8/19/92
to
Around here (SF bay area), the 20 year shingles are what you can get
from Home Depot. The roofing supply outfits offer them too (assuming
you can get past the alligators in the moat :-), but the premium lines
(like GAF and Elk and presumably Celotex) offer 25 year as their base
levels, with the "normal" shingles being the 30 year type. At the top
of the heap is the 40 year shingle. Haven't messed with them yet, but
I understand that they have gravel both top and bottom for extra
thickness. I suspect that the bottom gravel does nada for wear resistance.

I remember seeing a figure of 325 pounds/square for one of the 30-40 year
brands. Cost of raw shingles seems to be 50-60 per square, depending on
grade and brand. 30 year GAF runs about 50, 40 year Elk maybe higher
than 60.

Pete Brooks

George Tatge

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Aug 18, 1992, 11:56:46 AM8/18/92
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In misc.consumers.house, r...@tornado.kodak.com (Richard W. Lourette) writes:


>Our roof needs replacing. It is in very bad shape, and should have been
>replaced long ago. We just purchased the house, or I would have done
>something about it long ago.

>Rich

For a 10/12 pitch, assuming the roof isn't too cut up, you should
probably expect to pay about $120-$150 per square for a tear off
and new roof.

Here are things to GET IN WRITING!

1. All existing material to be torn off (don't settle for tearing
off one layer).

2. Any damaged sheathing to be replaced (agree on a cost/ sq. ft.).

3. ALL material to be cleaned up and hauled off (you will have about
23 zillion little match cover size pieces of comp. laying around
the house and in your bushes otherwise). Try to get them to agree
to lay tarps around the house while they're working.

4. Tell them where they may NOT park their truck. They are (quite
naturally) going to want to back up under the eaves to throw
things in easily.

5. They are responsible for water damage inside your house caused
by leaving sections of roof uncovered. A 40 square 10/12 roof
with two roofs on it is going to take about 10-30 man-days just
to tear off and clean up. You don't want them leaving big
sections uncovered.

6. Replace all metal and flashings. Doing a job this big and expensive
means you should go ahead and replace pipe flashings, sidewall flashings,
etc. That way, when you reroof in 10 to 15 years, you won't have
to worry about them since you'll just be going over the shingles
you're putting on now.

7. And of course, you want it guaranteed against leeks.

g (i've torn off more roofs than most hurricanes) t


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