Part II
(
Read
Part I here)

By Philip J. Cunningham
“Tiananmen,” whispers Chai Ling.
“What?” I ask, comprehending without comprehension.
“I'd like to see Tiananmen, one last time.”
We
skip the turn to the train station—she and Wang Li had been talking
about catching the first train out of Beijing-- and instead continue
east on Chang’an. As the car approaches the familiar student-controlled
zone around Tiananmen Square, I try to make sense of what we are doing.
I
had just delivered to the international media a candid interview with a
wanted student leader who said she is going to run away, while speaking
forthrightly about imminent bloodshed and the desire to overthrow the
government; if she was at risk before the interview, she’s at even more
risk now. What was the right thing to do?
It wasn’t just a
question of abstract journalistic ethics; I suffered from the vague
sense that I was the one being taken for a ride. I had no objections to
being a partisan in principle, but the behavior of those I was trying
to help was confusing me.
The car putters slowly in deference to
the thin but irregular flow of pedestrian traffic as we cut across the
largely empty north face of the square.
Chai Ling peers out the
rear window, studying the scene of her rise to fame in silence. The
precipitous drop in the number of protesting bodies is offset somewhat
by the profusion of new tents. The bright tarps and canvas from Hong
Kong made the student command zone at the monument look busy with
color, if not people.
It seems crazy, taking this confused
fugitive, alternately frightened, alternately fearless, to the place
most likely to get her in trouble. Then again, Tiananmen was still more
or less under the control of her people. Have I lost my faith in people
power? Reluctantly, I told the driver to swing to the south when we get
to the Great Hall.
Traffic is light and what protesters there
were, were widely dispersed. The thinning ranks of student volunteers
serving as traffic police did not demand to know our business today.
Waved
on by a weary student sentry standing on the northwest corner of the
Square, we head south, halting when we reach the nearest point to the
monument. All at once, Chai Ling seems to have second doubts,
expressing a reluctance to get out of the car. She asks me to run over
to the Monument, to see if I could find her husband.
"Tell Feng Congde I need to see him right away," she says in a grave
whisper, leaning on me lightly.
"Where is he?"
"I’m
not sure." She hands me another one of her little cryptic notes.
"Please give this to him, my husband. He will know where to reach me."
"But how am I supposed to find him?"
"I think he is still on the Square," she says.
"Where?"
"Probably by the Broadcast Tent," she clarifies.
"I'll
go with you," Patricia volunteers, switching to English. "You and me,
we can get out here and walk. They are in danger. They need the car,
don't they?"
"Why don't you wait for us at Kentucky Fried
Chicken? It's walking distance for us, the driver can park there, and I
think it will be safe."
"Kentucky?" The fugitives consider the idea. "Okay, Kentucky."
I paid the driver the meter fare plus some extra in case they need to
make a quick escape.
"Be careful, you two," I say in parting. "Keep the car as long as you
need to, it might be hard to find another one."
"Thank you, Jin," says Chai Ling, biting her lip, at once coquettish
and shy about all the trouble.
"See you in Kentucky!"
Patricia
and I ford a path through the thick but listless mass of day-trippers
on the perimeter of the Square who give way to die-hards, student
wardens and hardcore operatives as we get closer to the student HQ.
Unwittingly imitating the government they speak of overthrowing, the
student elite had become super paranoid about security. Undercover
police were undoubtedly a problem, I had noticed men taking my
photograph ever since May 4 and many of the photographers were older
than the students, but so was I. Did that make me a spy in their eyes?
Latecomers
to the cause from the provinces, for whom a mere claim of student
status was initially sufficient to get access, were subsequently
banished to the east periphery, though they now started to squeeze
closer to the center, vying for prestige by seizing high ground.
Access
to the Martyr's Monument is still tightly restricted, however, with
security at the southeast corner being unusually tight, roped-off and
zealously guarded for the exclusive use of the current pick of student
leaders only. The center is bustling as before, but the surrounding
crowd is a skeleton of its former self. The array of tents encircling
the student command and control center stand open to passersby, once
tightly guarded university camps are violated by passing foot-traffic.
Worse yet, for one who still carries the after-image of a million souls
gathered peacefully and purposefully, large swaths of the Square are
empty.
As we wend our way through the depressing litter and
mess, Patricia and I are stopped and questioned by student wardens and
vigilante types, though the security is less comprehensive today. The
burden of suspicion falls more often on Patricia, who flashed her Hong
Kong press ID to get through. As for me, I had no press pass but an
unusual and familiar profile --the Chinese-speaking laowai in the
indigo shirt—and that generally suffices to let me move about freely.
***
As
we neared the student-controlled inner perimeter, I turned around to
check on the taxi, but it was gone. Once inside the inner zone, the
security tightened, and we had to laboriously pass two more security
rings before getting to the broadcast tent where influential students
still congregated. Patricia was immediately turned away, flatly told
that the inside of the tent was off-limits to journalists. To get cross
the frontier of this final inner sanctum I had to produce the
personalized all-points security pass signed by Commander in Chief Chai
Ling.
The signature of “the leader” scribbled on a piece of
cardboard did the trick and we were free to step inside. Gone was the
tidy, homey atmosphere I remembered from earlier in the week. The
inside of the tent was a mess, awash with litter and upended equipment,
the mood chaotic if not frantic. Nobody seemed to be in charge.
There
was no hospitality corner. There were no smiles, no offers to have a
drink or take a seat. No one was willing to help us find Feng Congde,
and no one seemed to care that I carried an urgent message from Chai
Ling. It suddenly occurred to me I might be dropping the wrong names at
the wrong time. What if there had been a student coup? Perhaps she and
her husband had fallen from grace with factional infighting flaring up.
Maybe that's why she came to see me in such a hurry; maybe that’s why
she was on the lam.
Sensing political fortunes had changed, I
play it coy, the Wang Li way, asking if anyone had seen student
commander in chief Chai Ling. The response was underwhelming. Although
a few people paused long enough to show familiarity with the name,
nobody seemed to know what was going on. There was an undisciplined,
free-for-all, anything-goes atmosphere.
When I finally find a
student willing to spare a few seconds to humor the foreigner, he
states that I must go "upstairs" to the second level of the marble
platform, just above the tent. When we try to go that way, we are
stopped at a rope barrier. Adjacent to the checkpoint is a wooden table
shaded by a canvas tent.
“This is the student information
center,” I am told. Although the tent is open to the elements on one
side and flimsy in appearance, it had the dank bureaucratic air of a
Chinese government office. Student who needed to consult the leadership
solemnly queued in line, impatient and irritable, hoping for "official"
assistance.
Among those who waited in the sun, there erupted
shoving matches and shouts, like desperate travelers trying to snag
seats on a sold-out train. Some of them were looking for lost friends,
much as we were, passing back and forth notes scribbled on little
scraps of paper, hoping to win the attention of a “responsible person”
inside student information bureau. This bureau is not only inefficient,
but redolent of a bureaucratic arrogance. It is the holding pen one got
sent to when student guards when unimpressed with one’s credentials.
Trying to get an audience with the student leadership was an act in
frustration, like petitioning Li Peng on the steps of the Great Hall a
month before.
Impatient, like everyone else on line, I resort to
shouting out my request, hoping to get some immediate assistance.
Whether it was my blond hair or amusing foreign accent that managed to
catch the “responsible authority’s” attention, I don’t know, but at
least I got an answer.
“We are not clear about that.”
“But where is he?”
“His location is unknown,”
“But…”
“Not clear about that.”
Philip
J. Cunningham was a participant and observer of the events in Beijing
in 1989. Now a professor of media studies at Doshisha University,
Cunningham has a forthcoming book, Tiananmen
Moon: Inside the Chinese Student Uprising of 1989 (Rowman
& Littlefield, May 2009) that details his story of the events.
In honor of the 20th anniversary of 1989, Cunningham will be
sharing selections from his book at China Beat
over the
coming months. You can read more at the Tiananmen Moon website.
Cunningham also blogs at the group blog, Informed
Comment: Global Affairs.