Hello! (and an idea for a new way to replace The Tape)

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Zig

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Apr 10, 2011, 10:58:59 PM4/10/11
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Hi folks! I'm a long time builder.. have done domes, yurts, cubes, and
so on, and have been to BRC a few times. I haven't done a Hexayurt
yet, however after reading many posts and etc on the topic, i feel
like I understand the structure well enough to pose a possibility for
edge connecting that would be reusable and inexpensive.

Window cord cleats. :)

Line the edges with glued 1/4" plywood strips, perhaps 1.5" wide, on
both sides of the panel. Make sure they are over each other.. i.e. the
top one would be inset the distance of the bevel.

Now you screw in the window cleats with through bolts. How many is an
exercise left up to the reader, but they should all be the same
distance apart so all panels match up properly. The through bolts will
add strength to the structure as well.

On the inside, attach two cords, one to each top cleat. lace them up
horizontally, and then diagonally down to the next pair. Repeat. Cleat
off at the bottom with a half hitch.

On the outside, use whatever method you deem fit to weather proof the
seams (could use less expensive, non structural tape to do this) and
then lace them up like above.

What do you think\?

Zig

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Apr 11, 2011, 12:24:10 PM4/11/11
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As an aside, I realize this is a bit out there, but I was thinking of
ways to get force vectors all the way down the edge evenly. Simpler
ways exist in this same vein (strapping the seams) such as using
webbing and cam buckles, and so on, but the force wouldn't spread out
over the whole seam. Stitching up the seam with some sort of cordage
so you could get diagonals seemed the simplest way to accomplish this.

In fact, you could likely do it with a much simpler setup.. Top and
bottom using actual cleats, and the interim attachment points only
passing them once, and only diagonally like shoe laces, using a
"cleat" similar to the ones used for workboots for the upper laces. It
was me lacing up my workboots that gave me the idea in the first
place :) This seems a quick way to accomplish the notion, and quick to
deploy and tear down.

Im also toying with ideas for full width, weatherproof plastic (thick,
flexible sheeting) or metal (aluminium roof flashing) external seams,
thinking in terms of paper bindery.. Lots of labor, but the first idea
is to use 2 thin metal (or plastic) slats like a sandwich backed with
cork, rubber (like a metal ruler sometimes has) or other sticky
weather proof stuff, and perforated material that is situated onto
pins or bolts inside the sandwich and then secured. You'd still have
to tape at apexes, but it wouldn't have to be structural. You'd need
to use some sort of material to prevent drips through the holes, like
a rubber washer, on top. Or you could use cheap tape on the seam. The
bottom slat might not need to exist.. it could be a strip of
weatherproofing material.

This way, you would not need to use that many fasteners since the
force is being spread out over the slats to pinch the material down.
Some experimentation would be required, and perhaps a bit of math. to
determine the best spacing for the fasteners.

I might still use the cordage idea for the inner connections, along
with making the whole thing foldable so not many of the internal
connections needed lacing.

The slat material could be cheap pre-fab perforated metal strips that
have been taped up with reflective tape, backed with weather proofing
and holes made through the tape for the fasteners.

A more elegant solution would be to use a continuous track system,
like a sail goes up a mast. Metal or rigid plastic tubing of small
diameter with a slot cut the whole length on one side, non stretch
plastic sheeting (or even weatherproofed cloth) with two wooden dowels
running the whole length on its edge, and slightly smaller than the
gap to provide tension. The tubing would need to be secured very
rigidly, but assembly would be very quick if you left the tubing in
place between uses.

As an additional enhancement, if the edges were bevelled you might be
able to put thin butyl rubber on them, or perhaps even a strip of
cloth secured and painted with rubber cement and thus only have to
tape in a small cap at each apex when you assembled.

I'd be really interested to hear from the group, since I don't yet
have field experience! Thanks!

KrazyKyngeKorny

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May 1, 2011, 11:03:41 PM5/1/11
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More cost effective, and easier to stack, put slats on both sides, and
drill holes opposite slats. Then, run clothes rope through the holes
in adjacent panels,k and tie together.

Richard Ginn

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May 2, 2011, 11:03:22 AM5/2/11
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Any waterproof material laced against the seam might be waterproof enough and stay in place, doesn't even have to be tape?

Stacking with raised cleats might work if the edges were staggered inset like so:

=-----
  =-----
=-----
  =-----

Or drill all the way through and lace up the eyelets just like shoes, with one person inside and another outside.

Thanks!  Lacing is a fine idea.  Maybe laced up plywood would be very strong too.

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Alyssa Royse

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May 2, 2011, 11:11:42 AM5/2/11
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Seems like, for stability, you could use the thin metal stuff that is used for clean edges on drywall corners in home construction. It's angled and pre-punched with holes that you would lace. it is one piece, so if you had it inside and out, it would make a secure closure.

cheaper and easier than tape, and i would think very easy and at least as secure. of course, then you wouldn't be waterproof / dustproof anymore. 
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Timothy Balcer

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May 2, 2011, 11:57:03 AM5/2/11
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To reiterate, with bevelled edges you could put a material onto the edges that was "sticky" like butyl rubber (or something less expensive) that would seal up most of the edges. You could likely then use cheaper tape to cover over vertices to insure a seal.. or not. Use the regular tape, but in far less quantity. Thnen you are only left with how to anchor it down, but that could be done with a rope loop over the top.

Spiral Syzygy

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May 2, 2011, 12:20:44 PM5/2/11
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Gorilla tape over the beveled edges may work in that respect. It's
rather thick and rubbery.

Timothy Balcer

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May 2, 2011, 12:24:06 PM5/2/11
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Hmm.. but not "sticky" per se.. would have to test that out. I would feel more comfie with known weatherproofing materials. :)

Ray Kornele

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May 2, 2011, 12:26:40 PM5/2/11
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What about metal flashing, and liquid nails?

KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)
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