Pyramid shaped yurt with exhaust vent

[Alex Gorbatchev]

Hey friends!

Want to share my shelter / "hexayurt" from Burning Man 2014. This was made from 9 standard 8x4' RMax 1" panels with a custom roof and a wind mill exhaust. I added 1/4 EMT pipe to each vertical panel edge and connected all panels with heavy duty zip ties which made assembly and disassembly possible in 10-15 minutes. It's about 7.5' tall in the middle and 12x12' wide. Comfortably held a queen size air bed, small table with two benches 4 crates with clothing.

The windmill worked amazingly well. During stronger winds and dust gusts it was actually sucking out more dust from inside the yurt and kept the place even cleaner. There are two small air filters installed in walls opposite to the camera view.

[Lucas González]

does it have a name? a wikipage? maybe more pics of how zip ties work?

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[Steve Upstill]

Are you sure you didn't mis-speak about the thickness of the panels? They sure look like 1-1/2" from here.

Also: doesn't look like there's any pitch on the roof. How did it perform in the rain?

[Alex Gorbatchev]

There's no name or anything, this is just my own design that I wanted to share :)

This is 100% 1" foam. There's no pitch in roof by design. It did just fine in the rain. Unfortunately I put it on top of the tarp so some water got under the walls. I covered the side vents with plastic cover during the rain so they don't get soaked. 

I'm very excited to be stay in this yurt this year as well :D

[Dan Brown]

How about "the Aztec"?

[Beacon Sway]

Are the edges beveled or just 90 degrees with tape??

[Alex Gorbatchev]

Long edges were grooved and I added 1/4" EMT pipe. The pipes were then taped with 6" bi-filament tape, then taped again with 3" aluminum foil tape to protect from UVs. I then drilled 4 holes in each pipe for zip ties. The EMT pipe acted as cage reinforcement AND a place to hook zip ties into. Does that make sense?

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[jeff harrison]

what did you use to groove the panel edges?

would it be possible to glue the EMT into the grooves instead of using tape?

does an EMT to EMT edge held with wire ties create a seam that can't be penetrated by windblown dust?

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[Alex Gorbatchev]

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On Tue, Jun 30, 2015 at 9:05 AM, jeff harrison <je...@harrisonbros.com> wrote:

what did you use to groove the panel edges?

I just used an box cutter, the edges are very soft and groove very easily.

 

would it be possible to glue the EMT into the grooves instead of using tape?

I don't think it would be possible to the degree where it's structurally sound. 

 

does an EMT to EMT edge held with wire ties create a seam that can't be penetrated by windblown dust?

The seams aren't completely sealed. I thought about that ahead of time. and we brought 6" painters tape. It was pretty difficult to apply the painters tape in a "good" fashion so we ended up just slapping it along the edges on the inside. When we were taking it off after a week I was surprised by how little dirt there was on the take, so I might not even bother this year. I'll bring it just in case though. 

[Ian Smith]

Alex,

This is amazing!  I would like to replicate this design for the 2015 burn and I'm curious how you built the roof.  Everything else makes perfect sense.

Awesome job!
Ian

[Lucas González]

With pictures and permission, and a little work, the Aztec Hexayurt might become a wikipage over at Appropedia.Org, no?

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[Bobby Ray]

Hi Alex,

I never heard of 1/4" EMT.  I Googled it and Google responses came up as 1.25 inch EMT.  Where did you buy 1/4" EMT and what did it cost. 

If you were re-doing this design, what would you change?  How comfortable was it inside?  The beauty of this pyramid design is that it can be 50 feet long
and 50 feet wide ... well up to about 16 feet wide at the base would be easy to roof and keep the construction just 1 inch foam panels, zip ties, tape and pipe.

As I thought about 1/4 inch EMT ... I asked myself ... how did you drill it and thread those needle holes with the zip ties?  I really like the zip tie
idea.  I would be tempted to use 1.25 inch PVC pipe as that is easy to cut with a pair of $40 Harbor Freight Tools electric sheet metal shears.  Mark
the length of the PVC pipe twice with a little jig made from 2x4 scrap and a pencil ...
and cut one strip then the second strip to create your 1 inch gap for your panel and just slip the pane inside ... holding the PVC in place with silicone
or zip ties.  Notch the PVC rather than the panels and the PVC pipe can protect the panel edges.

Bobby Ray   951-764-1335 in Sun City California.  I travel all over the USA and love to look at the projects of others.  I welcome invitations to visit,
help you with your garden, share a cup of coffee and piece of pie ... even play a game of chess or bridge.  I also do car and computer repairs in my
travels and the first two hour's labor is free with a shared meal.   I travel with massage table (do www.bonnieprudden.com  Myotherapy treatments,
tools and love to help others ... white male 70 years old - master mechanic and good handy man. 

My next trip has me going to South Florida then to Kansas City then back home to Sun City in Califoria.  I gladly make side trips. 
I do wish I had tickets to BM ... but I was too late ... once again.

[Steve Upstill]

Just a clarification, please: I don't see how you can construct this out of 9 4x8 sheets. Each face uses one sheet whole, and two 2x8 right triangles. To get eight 2x8 right triangles don't you need two whole panels?

...and 1/4" EMT pipe? Really? 1/2" is the smallest I can find.

Thanks,

Steve Upstill

[Alex Gorbatchev]

Sorry for the delay, I'm traveling ATM...

The triangle's are 8x4 panels cut diagonally, so each side takes 2 panels. This makes each side 12 feet long, for total of 144 sqft. This is a bit smaller than similarly sized hexayurt, but more practical imo because the space is square in shape.

Here's the 1/4" EMT pile

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Allied-Tube-Conduit-1-1-4-in-EMT-Conduit-101576/100400410

I chose this size because its thinner than the 1/2" panel. So when you cut out a small triangular groove on the side of the panel, the 1/4 fits in very snuggly. Then using the 6" tape you get about two inches of grip on the panel on each side and this holds the EMT pipe very well. I the covered the bifilament tape that would be exposed to the sun with 3" aluminum foil.

Sorry, I'm still trying to dig out my original 3d sketch for the yurt. I'll follow up when I do.

Please ask more questions, I'm happy to answer :) very surprised to see this much interest in this design. People were pretty dismissive of it when I was originally posting the sketches :)

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[Chita Jing]

Did you mean 1+1/4" EMT pipe?  1.25" ?

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[Alex Gorbatchev]

Oops, sorry, that was the wrong link and you fellas totally right, there isn't 1/4 EMT, it was 1/2" EMT and 1" panels

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Allied-Tube-Conduit-1-2-in-EMT-Conduit-101543/100400405

[Chita Jing]

Our messages crossed each other. 1/2" EMT is indeed easy to find and drill, cut, etc.

How easy was this construction to keep dry? Any closeups of the roof? Especially where it meets the walls, please. 

[Alex Gorbatchev]

For the roof I made an L shaped frame out of 1x3 wood I believe and put a 4x4 panel in the frame. I the taped up the seams with foil tape.

The frame acted and the rigid structure for the panels to lean on and hold the shape. Because the pipes were actually leaning on the frame, there was practically no pressure downward on the panels themselves.

The yurt itself stood up very well to the Monday rain. Unfortunately I placed the matt on the ground flat and so bunch of water sipped under the panels, but that wasn't the yurt issue.

The best part is the wind vent. The stronger was wind outside, the more airflow there was throw the air filters and out of the yurt, essentially sucking the dust out and cleaning the air inside. I enjoyed this very much, it was an experiment that worked out very well imo.

[Chita Jing]

It sounds as if a lifted "floor" would have kept rain out? A small frame of 2" material could act as a small barrier to water entry through the doorway? Perhaps a perimeter of rolled up closed cell foam?

[Alex Gorbatchev]

Or just folding the mat inside up on the walls :)

[Chita Jing]

Yeah, that too. :D

I'm just thinking this could be a great, quick, easy build for emergency storage, for instance. I just had a sudden rain hit a small project of mine - so I'm looking at ideas I can execute quickly and have available for future surprises.

[Steve Upstill]

Alex,

I'm in mid-construction on my version of your "Aztec". One question re: ventilation. Did you just leave the hole to the turbine open, or did you fill it with some kind of filtering material in the event of backflow? Also, did you build something to block the flow to the turbine (for pretty much the same reason)?

PS I'll be camping with Aquazone at 3:00 and F this year. Come say hi and see my version!

Thanks,

Steve "Swifty" Upstill

[Alex Gorbatchev]

Steve,

I didn't add any dust filters to the turbine hole, I figured if there's wind it will be sucking air out due to "negative" pressure. 

I cut out a square opening for the turbine, treated the edges with foil tape. I kept the cut out piece and also treated the edges in case there's a need to plug the whole.

The turbine base was simply taped to the top of the panel. I used a couple of wood screws in a few places where it was possible.

I'm super excited to see somebody actually building this :) Are you done with the panels already?

[Lucas González]

Photos useable in wikipages would be extra nice. Thanks!

[Steve Upstill]

Almost done with the panels. Just have to punch out the tape for the drill holes and do the hinges.

You think YOU'RE psyched!

[Bobby Ray]

HI Steve,

I would love to see some pictures and any modifications that you did to the original design.

Thanks in advance.

Bobby Ray 951-764-1335 who will soon be making a trip from Hemet California to Kansas City and back

(going to pick up my van that died there.)  I welcome invitations to visit and photograph your projects.

Next trip is from Hemet in Southern California to South Florida then staying for an unknown length of time 

and returning. 

I welcome travel companions and I am looking for someone in KC area that wants a "free" ride to California .

to share the driving.  

I travel with tools, glad to help with projects.  I always have a camera, chess set and now that I am '

learning bridge ... a few decks of cards.  I love the simplicity of yurts, hexayurts and domes have fascinated 

me for decades.

[Steve Upstill]

Well, I got my "Aztec" square yurt up to the Playa and back. Because I took almost no pictures I didn't get one of the structure, but someone took a marker and scribbled "Best Shelter Design Award, BM 2015" on the outside.

 I do have a few observations:

* The interface with the ground was a problem. I thought I had a flat site, but there were air gaps that admitted wind and dust (especially since my tarp was only 12' wide to keep rain from leaking in), and also allowed the walls to bend in and out alarmingly, esp. in the wind. I dealt with it by raking playa a few inches high at bottom, but I still got plenty of dust intrusion.

* Dealing with the zipties was a pain, since drilling the holes left them so rough that moving the ties around--especially cinching them up--was a problem. In future I'll try to minimize the problem by putting the ties into one hole before putting the structure up.

* The door side was fairly fragile, and as the week wore on, the gap between the door pieces opened up.

* In the highest winds I feared for the survival of the 1" walls.

* Speaking of the door, it was difficult to keep it from blowing open when inside (when I was outside I just blocked it with a gallon water jug). 

* Decoration note: my shelter-mate scared up a piece of carpet to lie in the space between the beds. It made all the difference in dust control and general home-iness.

* The roof turbine was great. I had in mind an elaborate system to control airflow, but I just wound up attaching a handle to the plywood circle from cutting out the hole and jammiing it up there as needed. Anything more would have been wasted.

* My swamp cooler failed (long story) but the shelter was habitable day and night, albeit a tad stuffy in hot weather and pretty chilly on the coldest nights.

* Note: you CAN make a roof larger than 4' using just two pieces cut from a single 4x8 sheet of plywood. I spent several sleepless hours figuring this out, so contact me if you want the scheme.

* I cut 1x2's to make a square that fits tightly into the walls at the top, and screwed that onto the plywood. Makes nice seating at the top. 

* Not trusting bare plywood in the rain, and being suspicious that it would heat up in the sun, I covered the top with Reflectix, stapling it to the plywood edges and duct-taping it to the collar for the vent turbine. No rain, but I'm very confident in it. 

For next year, here are a few things I'll do:

* Dig a trench a couple of inches deep for the walls, such that the tarp goes into the trench but not out the other side. That should help with the structure of the walls and the wind, as well as providing a surface for the walls to clamp down to.

* Run a wire from pipe to pipe across the bottom of the door wall, to keep it from spreading.

* Rig a loop of tape or cord at the inside top of the door and hang a weight (a boot?) from it to keep the door closed when you're inside.

* Find some not-quite-so-cheap air filters. Mine were just generic Home Depot filters, and during the dust storms I could literally see dust blowing in. This happened with my prior hexayurts too, but I never seem to remember it until I'm up there.

* I don't know what the standard scheme is for dealing with stacking, but I made a perfect rectangular 8' x 4' x 8" stack by hinging the triangles to the walls. On each wall, one triangle hinges "in" and the other hinges "out". Two walls have them going one way (left "in", right "out") and two the other (right "in", left "out"). One wall has one triangle detached--taped onsite--so it will be lie on the top without an odd triangle. Stick the loose triangle to mate with the odd one on the bottom and you're away!

So, Alex, thanks for an inspired design! I've got my shelter for the next few years.

Cheers,

Steve

[J Pinder]

HI! I really want to build this for this years burn. Do you have any pics of your yurt inside and out. Im not sure I follow the framing that's been talked about.

cheers!

J

[Alex Gorbatchev]

Friends, here are a few more photos from 2016. This yurt has successfully survived 3 burns now with zero alterations from or fix ups from the original date of assembly. 

I'm selling the yurt now (Oakland, CA) because I no longer have space to keep it and am switching up to a shelter that is easier to store in an apartment. If you are interested in this yurt, please reach out to me.

[Alex Gorbatchev]

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/6016890618.html

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[Bobby Ray]

Hi Alex,

I am interested. 

Thanks,

Bobby Ray

951-764-1335 

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 3:22 PM, Alex Gorbatchev <alex.go...@gmail.com> wrote:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/6016890618.html

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 2:58 PM Alex Gorbatchev <alex.go...@gmail.com> wrote:

Friends, here are a few more photos from 2016. This yurt has successfully survived 3 burns now with zero alterations from or fix ups from the original date of assembly. 

I'm selling the yurt now (Oakland, CA) because I no longer have space to keep it and am switching up to a shelter that is easier to store in an apartment. If you are interested in this yurt, please reach out to me.

On Friday, June 26, 2015 at 2:49:51 PM UTC-7, Alex Gorbatchev wrote:

Hey friends!

Want to share my shelter / "hexayurt" from Burning Man 2014. This was made from 9 standard 8x4' RMax 1" panels with a custom roof and a wind mill exhaust. I added 1/4 EMT pipe to each vertical panel edge and connected all panels with heavy duty zip ties which made assembly and disassembly possible in 10-15 minutes. It's about 7.5' tall in the middle and 12x12' wide. Comfortably held a queen size air bed, small table with two benches 4 crates with clothing.

The windmill worked amazingly well. During stronger winds and dust gusts it was actually sucking out more dust from inside the yurt and kept the place even cleaner. There are two small air filters installed in walls opposite to the camera view.

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[Steve Upstill]

Re the pyramid hexayurt: this will be my third year with this design, and I think I've solved a couple of problems.

Problem The First: sealing the bottom. First year I just lay the base on a tarp, and got light, wind and dust coming in the bottom. Second year I tried trenching the walls and keeping the tarp inside, velcroing it to the insides of the walls. Result: it was a huge pain doing the trenching in such a way that the walls hit flat on the bottom.

Problem The Second: with 1" walls, this design is a tad floppy in a high wind. There was one several-hour period when I wasn't sure the thing would survive. Plus, movement of the bottoms of the walls near their centers makes it nearly impossible to seal the bottom (see Problem The First).

Problem The Third: the arch shape of the front wall with the door cut out is VERY fragile. I had to do a field repair last year, and consider myself lucky to have made it back. I'm rebuilding the front wall today.

Problem The Fourth: (related to #3), the front wall tends to splay corner-to-corner, further reducing the strength of the wall and killing your door seal.

Okay, so now you know the context, here's my solution to all four problems (trying it this year; results to follow). The main thing is handling the tarp. I'm going to cut a tarp 6" wider on all sides than the yurt. I'll mount velcro 6" up the yurt walls and on the edges of the tarp. In situ, I'll fold the tarp up and velcro it into place, "wrapping" the base of the yurt. This will eliminate the sealing problem and also the structural problems, since it will keep the four walls from poofing outward and hold the front wall from splaying.

How does that work at the front wall? Easy: instead of the single "bridge" above the door, I'm going to cut the door leaving solid wall across top and bottom; the bottom bit will secure the tarp there.

Codicil the first: I'm also going to strength both of those "bridges" by gluing thin flashing steel straight across (inside and out)

Codicil the second: to keep the rain completely out, i'll glue a flap of silver mylar just above the tarp, overlapping it.

Any questions?

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 11:58 PM Bobby Ray <catrue...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Alex,

I am interested. 

Thanks,

Bobby Ray

951-764-1335 

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 3:22 PM, Alex Gorbatchev <alex.go...@gmail.com> wrote:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/6016890618.html

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 2:58 PM Alex Gorbatchev <alex.go...@gmail.com> wrote:

Friends, here are a few more photos from 2016. This yurt has successfully survived 3 burns now with zero alterations from or fix ups from the original date of assembly. 

I'm selling the yurt now (Oakland, CA) because I no longer have space to keep it and am switching up to a shelter that is easier to store in an apartment. If you are interested in this yurt, please reach out to me.

On Friday, June 26, 2015 at 2:49:51 PM UTC-7, Alex Gorbatchev wrote:

Hey friends!

Want to share my shelter / "hexayurt" from Burning Man 2014. This was made from 9 standard 8x4' RMax 1" panels with a custom roof and a wind mill exhaust. I added 1/4 EMT pipe to each vertical panel edge and connected all panels with heavy duty zip ties which made assembly and disassembly possible in 10-15 minutes. It's about 7.5' tall in the middle and 12x12' wide. Comfortably held a queen size air bed, small table with two benches 4 crates with clothing.

The windmill worked amazingly well. During stronger winds and dust gusts it was actually sucking out more dust from inside the yurt and kept the place even cleaner. There are two small air filters installed in walls opposite to the camera view.

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[Bobby Ray]

Thanks for asking for questions .... I would love to see some updated pix. 

How did you secure the pyramid so that the winds did not blow it away. 

You mentioned 1 inch foam not being strong enough ... is 1.5 inches strong enough?

Would a 6 inch wide perimeter strip give the required stability?  Maybe the tarp can be 

pinched between the reinforcing perimeter strip?  Maybe two reinforcing perimeter strips - 

one inside and one out side 4 inch bolts and large fender washers used for attaching and 

spacing the bolts to go through the grommets of your tarp?

Bobby Ray who who yearns to make it to Burning Man. 951-764-1335

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/6016890618.html

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[Steve Upstill]

I'll post some pictures when I'm staging it later (I'm miserable about taking pictures on-Playa).

For securing the pyramid, I have rope loops attached to the plywood roof. On the ground, I use 10" lag screws with a washer and two links of chain. In between, basic Home Depot ratchet straps. With the corner edges of the structure are reinforced with EMT pipe, that REALLY holds it down. 

I use 1" foam because I wanted to make a smaller package for transport. Having used 1-1/2" in the past on a hexayurt, I can say that it would be plenty strong for this use. 50% bigger package though.

As for stability from the tarp, I'm very confident in the shear strength of the velcro. (I use it for "wrapping" around the corners, and last year, just taking it apart caused significant damage to the yurt)

What I'm more worried about is the strength of the foil on the panels. The manufacturer doesn't pay any attention to the durability of the bond of foil-on-foam. I may resort to laying a strip of flashing metal down for reinforcement. (I don't want to get involved with nuts and bolts b/c I want flat panels for stacking.)

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/6016890618.html

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[Alex Gorbatchev]

Hey Steve!

You are my hero :) Thank you so much for all the updates, it's really inspiring to see you using my design. Every problem you mentioned I can confirm personally. The flapping walls in strong winds and the weak front door panel. After 3 burns, I sold my yurt this year due to storage space issues.

> I'll mount velcro 6" up the yurt walls and on the edges of the tarp.

Not sure if I understand you correctly, but keep in mind that you can't reliably glue anything to the surface of the RMax panels if the tension is going to be away from the surface. The velcro tape will just come off with the silver paper.

I ended up simply folding the tarp along the insides of the walls without attaching it all together... it's not "pretty", but it works for the purpose of not letting water inside.

If you want to solve the flapping walls issues, I was going to add a few eyelets to the end of the pipes and stake them down into the ground.

[J. Pinder]

I did a similar build last year with 1" boards and never had any problems with wind and leaking. check it out here! thanks for this inspiration.

http://imgur.com/a/mj6K1

J

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[Alex Gorbatchev]

J, great job! I didn't think of taping the tarp on the outside, my door design was all the way to the bottom edge of the panel. Did you have to tape it up on the playa? This is the part of that I was trying to avoid doing :)

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[J. Pinder]

did I have to tape the tarp on the playa? I did. It was suuuuper easy, just get a buddy to help you! It wasn't particularly windy when we set it up eaither, and a ladder with someone propping it up on the inside helped alot when taping the outside of the structure.

J Pinder 

Director Producer

Seize Short Film

smash.media

p.(323) 379-5769

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[Steve Upstill]

Messr. Pinder,

That gallery is great! I did it a little differently in that I assembled each wall (rectangle + two triangles) at home, with one hinge inside and one hinge outside so one triangle folds to the inside and one outside--leaving one triangle free so you can form a neat stack. That way I could just tape the corners on site. I embedded 1/2" EMT in the corners and drilled it so the corners would go together with zip ties. I actually reinforced that with velcro attached to cordura. Kept the dust down...

By the way, new discovery for this year: the Danger Hinge (Trademark Julie Danger, godmother of the hexayurt)! Basically, instead of just stopping with a hinge on one face, you close two faces about the hinge, then put a second hinge across the resulting double edge. I can't believe I've built hexayurts for so long without nutting this out. So much stronger!

Swifty

On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 11:00 AM J. Pinder <jbpi...@gmail.com> wrote:

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[Steve Upstill]

Alex,

I'm planning on doing what J. Pinder did, only using velcro rather than tape. I hear you about the flaky connection between the foam and the foil, but the tension will be <along> the foil, not pulling it up. I'm hoping that a long strip of velcro will distribute the load enough that it's not a problem. If it is, well, that's one more year of learning experiences! (I don't have any faith in the idea of just ripping up the foil and attaching directly to the foam. I think there's a reason for that flaky connection. :-)

[Alex Gorbatchev]

Steve,

I see what you mean. I'm curious... if the tarp is on the outside and you use velcro instead of tape, wouldn't that let the water in? What do you think?

[Steve Upstill]

Yeah, I thought of that, and you're right. My solution is to glue or tape a strip of mylar above the velcro and overlapping the tarp. Could be overkill, might not work owing to the problem of gluing mylar, but we'll see... Like I said, Learning Experience!