Judging from the following reverse engineered circuit diagram, I
suspect that this is, or will be, a common problem.
See http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=22837
or
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/DVD/Sunplus/G1928/G1928_PSU.gif
- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
I guess that's why DSE can retail the DVD player for $29!
How much do the replacement caps cost? :->
Dave.
"Franc Zabkar" <fza...@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:q8pno3pb3n79u7uv7...@4ax.com...
Oh and its your or you're depending .
Foaming at the mouth like that is not a good look.
Go have a cup of tea, a Bex, and a good lie down.
Dave.
Pity the don't make Bex any more.
I would have suggested he take half a dozen and wash them down with a Coke.
Guaranteed to send him into a head spin. :-) That's assuming he didn't
chunder in the meantime. LOL
Cheers,
Alan
GASP!!!! Has Philthy started to breed/clone/replicate?
Cheers TT :-))
Why not just go to Strathfield Car Radios. and get there $19 box. And stop
wasting your time repairing the $29 DSE crap.
"Greg" <g123...@no-spam-yahoo.com.au> wrote in message
news:478c3567$0$30835$5a62...@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
boy , didnt your boyfriend kiss u before you left to go hang around the pre
school ?
It cost me about AU$3 for 8 Hitano EXR series 105degC low impedance
types. Needless to say I did the job for a friend. I believe the G1928
players originally sold for $79, and then were reduced to $49.
Anyway the G1928 has been fun to play with. At the moment I've added
an RS232 port in order to upload and download the firmware. I've also
managed to change the DSE background to a nice alpine scene. One extra
thing this player has is a USB connector on the decoder PCB. However,
there appears to be no corresponding USB module in the firmware.
Fortunately the G1928 looks very similar to an Aldi TEV1020 player
which cost $39 and which does have the USB module present in the
firmware (but not in the hardware). Hopefully I can transplant the
Aldi firmware into the G1928 and get a functioning USB port.
BTW, hacking players with Sunplus chipsets is relatively difficult
because most of the available tools are in Russian or Chinese, as are
most of the hacking forums. I spend most of my time trying to decipher
instructions or console outputs. Unfortunately Google's translator
produces some weird results. If a Russian speaker is watching this
thread, I would welcome some help with a few phrases.
>What is your fucking point with all your suggestions about fucking
>capacitors?
>You might be good in Electronics, but boy, are you shit in Economics!
>Go away now and build you Atom bomb!
That excellent circuit diagram is not my work. I'm sorry if it
appeared that way. It was submitted to eserviceinfo by someone named
"RE_King". I added it to my web site to complement the hacking work I
have been doing on this player.
FWIW, I replaced all the caps with original values, excepting that I
had to use higher voltages in some cases for availability reasons.
These are the caps I used:
http://www.wescomponents.com/datasheets/EXR.pdf
One more warning. The same PSU board is used in some Chinese "Sansui"
branded supermarket players (not the same Japanese Sansui brand from
20 years ago).
Of *all* the people offering spelling/grammar lessons...
LOL.
--
"Ralph Wiggum 2008: Because you could do worse."
If he keeps going he's in for a nice healthy heart attack
bassett
There has been talk around of the traps of Philthy setting up a
toaster repair franchise. Perhaps this person is the first franchisee,
and newsgroup etiquette comes as part of the training package?
Dave.
>> I guess that's why DSE can retail the DVD player for $29!
> Why not just go to Strathfield Car Radios. and get there $19 box. And stop
> wasting your time repairing the $29 DSE crap.
It doesn't matter.
Some of the funnest stuff I'm pulled apart to hack has been cheap crap.
Cheap crap is cheap crap, it's all good.
--
Linux Registered User # 302622
<http://counter.li.org>
The same PSU PCB was used in a $99 Sansui DVD player sold by KMart. In
my experience buying a DVD player is a "crap" shoot (pun intended),
whether you opt for a snob brand or a generic. If your only problem is
the PSU, not the optical pickup, then you are lucky. A PSU failure is
usually a cheap, easy fix. I'm also finding that the current decoder
chips get very hot to the touch. As a rule I add stick-on heatsinks to
these chips and the motor driver chip.
>On Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:57:21 -0800 (PST), "David L. Jones"
><alt...@gmail.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>>I guess that's why DSE can retail the DVD player for $29!
>>How much do the replacement caps cost? :->
>>
>>Dave.
>
>It cost me about AU$3 for 8 Hitano EXR series 105degC low impedance
>types. Needless to say I did the job for a friend. I believe the G1928
>players originally sold for $79, and then were reduced to $49.
>
>Anyway the G1928 has been fun to play with. At the moment I've added
>an RS232 port in order to upload and download the firmware. I've also
>managed to change the DSE background to a nice alpine scene. One extra
>thing this player has is a USB connector on the decoder PCB. However,
>there appears to be no corresponding USB module in the firmware.
>Fortunately the G1928 looks very similar to an Aldi TEV1020 player
>which cost $39 and which does have the USB module present in the
>firmware (but not in the hardware). Hopefully I can transplant the
>Aldi firmware into the G1928 and get a functioning USB port.
I should add that the G1928 handles DivX5 and Xvid right out of the
box, even though the DSE web site makes no mention of this.
>If anyone has a DSE G1928 DVD player, I suggest that they replace all
>the BRC branded electrolytic capacitors on the PSU PCB
I've just had a look at another G1928. The caps are branded "Rubycon".
They are the YXA series which are "standard" 105degC types, not low
ESR. All are still in good condition, but I wonder if they are
genuine.
This is the datasheet:
http://www.szmuchang.com/admin/eweb/uploadfile/20071213103007566.pdf
The measured dimensions of the caps labelled 220uF/16V and 220uF/25V
are 6x11mm for both, whereas the datasheet specifies 6.3x11mm for the
16V cap and 8x11.5 for the 25V cap. The 1000uF/25V cap measures
10x20mm, which is as expected.