Dell PA-10 ac adapter center pin
Rober...@gmail.com
about this but came up with nill...So I investigated it myself for
anyone out there that may be interested in what that center pin really
does. For those of you that think I don't know my butt from a hole in
the ground and feel like leaving any messages against what I did I'm
not asking for pointless opinions here so take them elsewhere. There
was a need for it to be reverse engineered and I did it. Enough
ranting lets get on to the beef of the post.
I too was wondering what this third center pin is about. No voltage
present to it, no resistance, no capacitance; got me wondering what
kinda surprise did Dell put in the power supply that they don't want
us to know about. So curiosity got the best of me and I very carefully
pried the glued case apart.
Standard switching power supply, but then near where the wire enters
the case and is soldered to the circuit board resides a small TO-92
device. First thought was maybe a transistor that sinks a certain
current upon attachment but after further inquiry, only two leads were
connected. This led me to reverse engineering this small circuit. It
turns out theres a 131 ohm resistor in series with the center pin wire
of the DC connecter and one pin of the 'mystery device' and then there
is a reverse biased diode going to ground. The other pin that is
connected of said device is also connected to ground (by reverse
biased I mean that the diode will only conduct if a positive voltage
were applied to the ground connection of the power supply and a
negative (ground) were connected to the center pin of the DC power
connector. This lead me to deducing, because of the series resistor,
that this diode was a zener of currently unknown breakdown voltage.
The next step was to determine the true identity of the 'mystery
device.' The part number read "Dallas 2501 (then a date code)." Dallas
being dallas semiconductor (aka Maxim IC). A search yielded only a
very incomplete datasheet refering me to the DS2502 which is a 1kbit
one-wire EPROM version. The "2501" was a DS2501 of 512 bit data space.
The datasheet gives specifications to a max programming voltage after
EPROM write instruction of 12V. This means to protect the device from
overvoltage this zener diode connected to the pins must be a 12V zener
and the sereis resistor being a current limiter protecting the diode
in the event that the inner barrel and center pin were to come into
contact.
The DS2502 and 2501 (1kbit and 512 bit respectively) use Dallas Semi.
1-Wire (R) communication protocol. It gets its power from the data
line and when the data line is low a diode protected capacitor supplys
power for its logic circuits, Parasite Power. This means that to
communicate with the DS2502/1 one only needs two lines, a data line
(logic high idle state) and ground. The power to the data/power line
is supplied by the master through a 5k ohm resistor for short cable
lengths.
Hope anyone reading this that wants to make his/her own power
converter finds this information usefull (insert disclaimer here; ie.
use this information at your own risk, I am not to be held responsible
if someone else's equipment gets fried b/c of poor design, I only
described how it works and make no claims to it being my own design
giving rights of design and operation to Dell and/or LiteOn (written
on power brick) and any other engineering firm/company/manufacturer
that was involved in the design of the motherboard, power brick and
any other associated equipment, etc.)
Rober...@gmail.com
firmware for a microcontroller to read the memory chip in these power
supplies...this is the eeprom dump from it
002100: 11 17 E1 6C 02 00 00 C2 ...l....
002110: 44 45 4C 4C 30 30 41 43 DELL00AC
002118: 30 39 30 31 39 35 30 34 09019504
002120: 36 43 4E 30 44 46 32 36 6CN0DF26
002128: 36 37 31 36 31 35 36 32 67161562
002130: D0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF ........
002138: 41 30 30 85 90 FF FF FF A00.....
002140: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF ........
002148: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF ........
002150: FF FF FF FF EA FF FF FF ........
002158: FF
at memory address 2130, D0, is a CRC (8-bit, x^8+x^5+x^4+1 polynomial)
of address locations 2110 - 212F that was calculated by the DS2501 as
the data was read in by the bus master.
I was unable to get any useful data after 213C but then it read a byte
at location 2155. The cause of this is unknown and there was no valid
CRC calculated...this is still under investigation.
As far as the memory dump....Dell (manu.), 00 I'm guessing is an
identifier, AC describing what type of adapter, 0 another identifier,
195046 being 19.5 volts and 4.6 amps. From CN to 62 this is the
product identification number found on the barcode and A00 is the
revision code 00 being the important part b/c I obtained a second 90
watt power supply and it too and an 'A' appended before the numerical
portion of the revision number.
Hope anyone reading this finds the information useful.
(Same as before insert disclaimer here....)
Rober...@gmail.com
the firmware to read the whole memory space instead of a page at a
time, this let me gain access to all the information (consecutive
addresses throughout) allowing me to find that the whole barcode
number is stored on the DS2501 followed by the revision number. The
following is the memory dump from the 12F683's internal EEPROM....
002100: 11 36 14 6D 02 00 00 B8 .6.m.... = ROM
002108: F3 FF FF FF FF FF FF 00 ........ = STATUS
002110: C3 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF ........ = STATUS CRC (=C3)
002118: 44 45 4C 4C 30 30 41 43 DELL00AC = Start of page 0
002120: 30 39 30 31 39 35 30 34 09019504
002128: 36 43 4E 30 43 38 30 32 6CN0C802
002130: 33 34 38 36 36 31 36 31 34866161 = End of page 0
002138: 52 32 33 48 38 41 30 33 R23H8A03 = Start of page 1
002140: 4D 7C FF FF FF FF FF FF M|......
002148: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF ........
002150: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF ........ = End of page 1
002158: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF ........
So here we have the first line being the ROM. 11 is the family code,
the serial number is: 0000026D1436 and B8 is the hardcoded CRC reality
check byte
The next line is the EPROM status register. The first byte is the code
protection bits (bits 0-3) and memory usage map (bits 4-7, reserved
for TMEX) the next 4 are page redirection bytes, bytes 6 and 7 are
maintained clear/unprogrammed and byte 8 is programmed to 00 at the
factory. C3 is the CRC computed by the DS2501, this was checked by
using the program I wrote in windows for computing the CRC
(x^8+x^5+x^4+1), and was determined to be valid. The next five lines
are the actual data space information. Dell is the manufacturer, 0 is
a field identifier, AC is the type of adapter, 090 is the wattage
rating (my thought is that it allows for 99+ watt power adapters),
195046 is the nominal voltage rating (19.5 Volts) followed by the
nominal current rating adjusted to one decimal place (4.6 Amps). From
C to H8 is the barcode number of the power adapter and A03 is the
revision of the power adapter. 4D7C is an end of information
identifier as I have found this on another adapter I own. The one
thing I was unsuccessful in acquiring was the computed CRC at the end
of the data space that the memory chip is supposed to send as a 65th
byte (which is sent at the end of the data space, this was assumed to
be the same communication protocol as is used for the DS2502).
Again I hope this helps answer any inquiries anyone may have as to the
actual data stored in the memory chip.
I'll be happy to answer any technical questions anyone may have about
this. Please only technical questions, I am not offering design
services and any inquiries of that type will be immediately ignored
and any additional blocked permanetly if I so deem them to be a
nuisance.
(insert additional lenghty disclaimers here...)
ejay
Hi there, I have a PA-10 adapter which I accidentally damaged by
shorting the inner barrel with the centre pin. I have dismantled the
adapter and unsoldered the Dallas 2501 IC. Do you know how/where to get
this replacement part?
Can you also describe how you were able to read/write to the 2501? What
eeprom reader did you use? It would be awesome if you can provide the
details necessary to program up one of these ICs so that I can obtain a
replacement and get my adapter working properly again.
BTW, when the Dallas 2501 chip is damaged, the laptop (in this case a
Inspiron 8500) runs OK off mains power, but the battery won't charge.
The BIOS also complains about not knowing what type of adapter it is,
with the message "The AC Power Adapter type cannot be determined. This
will prevent optimal system performance".
Thanks for your assistance
PS
No thank you to Dell for making such easily broken products. Why can't
you guys at Dell design your systems to use a normal AC adapter without
the need for silly detection circuits?
'Ejay' (http://ejay.com.au)
msny...@gmail.com
Thanks for effort on this, my PA10 cord got frayed and looks like the
brief short took out the DS2105. I opened up the power supply and I do
not see the Zener and resistor internal to the supply maybe they moved
that circuitry into the laptop. In my PA10 the DS2105 appears to be
wired without any supply to it atleast internal to the power supply.
The Zener that you mentioned was it internal to the power supply or
did you trace it to within you laptop?
Thanks
Mike
ejay
Mine didn't appear to have the zener anywhere. The center pin of the
barrel plug was wired straight to one of the pins of the DS2105. So the
IC has no protection whatsoever, be it from overvoltage or static
electricity.
I'm also curious if anyone has found a way to bypass this problem.
Conceivable methods might include modifications to the motherboard, or a
hacked BIOS. Let me know if you have a solution.
'Ejay' (http://ejay.com.au)
msny...@gmail.com
1Kbit eprom, program it with the dump that Robert's shown above and
see if it works, I have ordered a sample and will try this out, will
report back If it works. I broke down and bought a replacement adapter
it seems ebay has them for around $ 20, but would still like to get my
original working again, pretty sneaky of Dell to do this but I guess
they will just claim they were trying to ensure that bad adapters do
not harm the battery :-)
On Jan 28, 7:49 am, ejay <ejay.33y...@no.email.invalid> wrote:
> Mine didn't appear to have the zener anywhere. Thecenterpinof the
ejay
Having obtained the component, how would you go about programming it? Is
it possible to use a modified EEPROM programmer? Or would a simple
homebrew circuit to interface to a serial/parallel port do?
Would be nice if Robert could explain in detail how he did it.
I'm sure there are heaps of Dell adapters out there that have suffered
the same fate. It's very rare for an incorrect adapter to 'harm' a
battery anyway - the onboard charging circuitry knows how full the
battery is, and will apply the charge accordingly. Not to mention the
proprietary plug, which basically precludes the use of any other
adapter, so it's not a scheme to protect the battery - but rather a way
for Dell to screw the customers for more $$ when the adapters break.
'Ejay' (http://ejay.com.au)
phoenix
My PA10 works intermittently. Anyone managed to repair it or do I need
to buy a replacement?:mad:
Christopher Muto
> My PA10 works intermittently. Anyone managed to repair it or do I need
> to buy a replacement?:mad:
>
>
are you sure the problem is the adapter and not the computer?
it is a common and unfortunate problem with many model laptops that the
connector in the computer becomes loose and so has poor contact with the
system board. a simple test of this condition is jiggle the plug on the
computer end while it is inserted into the laptop and watch to see if it
switches between battery and ac power. this should be covered under
warranty or there are many shops that will re solder the ac jack back on
the system board for a flat fee. depending on the age of the system it
may not be worth the expense. having said that, genuine dell pa10
adapters can be had from ebay for about $20 delivered. clone "for dell"
adapters can be had on ebay for close to $10 delivered but they are junk
and will not be as durable or long lasting.
BillW50
Christopher Muto typed on Mon, 04 Jan 2010 16:54:46 -0500:
> ... a simple test of this condition is jiggle the plug on the computer
> switches between battery and ac power.
Well that is a tip-off for sure. But if it doesn't, it doesn't mean it
isn't the jack itself or the solder connections to the board. As
sometimes the jack can break (and it is still can be solid as a rock) or
a solder connection or something... and no amount of wiggling will make
it work for some of them.
--
Bill
Gateway MX6124 ('06 era) 2 of 3 - Windows XP SP3
MZB
Can you elaborate. Lately, my Inspiron does switch from battery to AC when I
jiggle the chord a bit.
What does that indicate?
Is it easy to fix?
Mel
"Christopher Muto" <mu...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:gfqdnSs0IpA7_t_W...@speakeasy.net...
Christopher Muto
to repair a jack problem means entirely removing the system board from
the laptop, removing the old jack, soldering in a new one, and then
reassembling the laptop. not particularly hard but not a job for a
complete novice either. bad soldering skills can ruin the board... but
a board with this problem is pretty much useless anyway. if you can
remove the board (visit support.dell.com and under documentation look
for the service manual for you model for details) then you can send off
the board for repair. look on ebay for some people that do the job for
a flat rate, and that might even include removal of the board (ship them
your whole computer less memory, hard disk, optical drive, etc).
Of course there is also a chance that the problem is less dire than
this... well traveled and roughly handeled ac adapters can have a issue
with the wire where it enters the laptop plug, or the wire could be cut
or frayed, or the removable power cord may simply not be fully inserted
into the adapter... but those conditions are no so common, but worth
considering. in other words, make sure you have a good ac adapter
before you proceed with a motherboard power jack repair.
here is a example of the work involved...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjOVOLOW1Hc
BillW50
Christopher Muto typed on Mon, 04 Jan 2010 22:36:53 -0500:
> to repair a jack problem means entirely removing the system board from
> the laptop, removing the old jack, soldering in a new one, and then
> reassembling the laptop. not particularly hard but not a job for a
> complete novice either. bad soldering skills can ruin the board...
> but a board with this problem is pretty much useless anyway. if you
> can remove the board (visit support.dell.com and under documentation
> look for the service manual for you model for details) then you can
> send off the board for repair. look on ebay for some people that do
> the job for a flat rate, and that might even include removal of the
> board (ship them your whole computer less memory, hard disk, optical
> drive, etc). Of course there is also a chance that the problem is less
> dire than
> this... well traveled and roughly handeled ac adapters can have a
> issue with the wire where it enters the laptop plug, or the wire
> could be cut or frayed, or the removable power cord may simply not be
> fully inserted into the adapter... but those conditions are no so
> common, but worth considering. in other words, make sure you have a
> good ac adapter before you proceed with a motherboard power jack
> repair. here is a example of the work involved...
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjOVOLOW1Hc
I always wondered why some genius hasn't made fake batteries with a jack
on them. For those that use their laptops on AC alone, I figure this
would be a gold mine for somebody. Even adding a power regulator inside
(since the AC adapter voltage is higher than the battery) shouldn't be
too costly. After all, you can buy AC adapters for 10 bucks or less on
eBay.
Another solution is if your laptop can handle a docking station. Well
there you go. No power jack required. <grin>
--
Bill
Gateway M465e ('06 era) - Windows XP SP2
MZB
So far, it has not been a problem. But I suspect it will get worse over
time.
I don't think it is the chord.
This Inspiron 2200 (much maligned by many on the newsgroup) has worked
flawlessly for me for about 7 years. When it gets worse, I'll buy a new
laptop.
I also have an Acer netbook which I like a lot.
Mel
"Christopher Muto" <mu...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:pcidnbw9TfFILt_W...@speakeasy.net...
ChipInNC
Christopher Muto;1161117 Wrote:
> MZB wrote:[color=blue]
> > ... well traveled and roughly handeled ac adapters can have a issue
> with the wire where it enters the laptop plug, or the wire could be cut
>
> or frayed, or the removable power cord may simply not be fully inserted
>
> into the adapter... but those conditions are no so common, but worth
> considering. in other words, make sure you have a good ac adapter
> before you proceed with a motherboard power jack repair.
>
Actually I've found that the power supply's cord/wire to the computer
is the *most common* problem I've seen. Not just at the connection to
the computer, but especially at the junction where the wire enters the
power supply itself.
If the problem is at the end connector or the jack, the customers
usually had issues with putting the computer away (in a laptop bag,
etc.) with the power supply still connected. (I know, Duh!)
If the problem is at the junction of the wire and the PS, it's usually
from a "road warrior" that travels a lot and pulls the cord tight when
wrapping the cord around the PS when packing it up. I always tell folks
to leave a 1-2 inch loose loop in the cord so that you don't bend the
cord at the junction to the PS. If any of the 3 wires in the cord get
damaged from repetitive bending, you've got to repair or replace the
PS.
Luckily, it's pretty easy to pop open a Dell Laptop Power Supply and
unsolder the three wires and cut off about 6 inches of the "damaged"
section, use heat shrink tubing to insulate the 3 wires properly,
re-solder the wires and glue the PS back together. But you've got to
remember to test ALL the wires in the cord for shorts to each other or
open connections to the plug. Sometimes I've had to cut down some cords
to 1/2 their length or less. Some were totally trashed.
I have more PS boxes without wires than I expected. Found a place that
sells these wires for $15 each including shipping
(http://dcplug.net/dell.html), but it's higher than I'd like to pay.
They should be about $5 or less each plus shipping ($3-$5).
I don't have a video showing you how to do it, but it's not that hard
for someone experienced with a soldering iron. That $15 cord (above)
would make it very easy for most self repair folks to do.
Good luck!
who where
<ChipInN...@no.email.invalid> wrote:
(snip)
>Luckily, it's pretty easy to pop open a Dell Laptop Power Supply
It is? Do you have a magic method, or is it something we mere mortals
could hope to emulate?
ChipInNC
Mortal? Hmm.
I started to put this info here, but decieded it would be off topic for
this thread and created a new thread. Here's the link:
I hope it helps!
pay[oh]tea
Being as I have done laptop dis assembly for jack replacement for years
and years now, I have personally seen hundreds of examples of faulty
1-wire \ maxim chip issues.. Anyhow, a close friend came to me with a
dell latitude D620 that exhibited all the telltale signs of a bad 1-wire
chip; ie: it would recognize my PA-10 adapter (and consequently charge
AOK) however his would come up as unknown and not provide a charge.
SOOOOOO I embarked on the 1-wire id chip adventure as so many of you
also have. What I did hehe was post an ad on craigslist, looking for
free\cheap dead or alive PA-10\PA-12 adapters... And got literally
hundreds of hits. So yea, next step of course would be mass dis
assembly! When done with all of the adapters, I had 15 3pin chips, and
another 8 or 10 8pin chips. Now from what I've found, the 3pin units can
be wired up directly without any protective circuit and are quite
reliable, where as the 8pin packages are less so. Anyhow, I've been
making both adapter plugs with the 1-wire chip hardwired in them, that
amazingly work with just about *any* adapter... All the way up to 130w
HP units. And yes, they even display in the bios as 130w. Another neat
trick is hard wiring them into the Dxxx compatible docking stations.
Anyhow, I'll post some picks here in a day or two.
kajander
The communication protocoll is
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1-Wire
and what about this?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smart_grid
and remotly starting up da laptop?
http://wn.com/1-wire_touch_switch_controlled_lights
Someone to check up this?
emails at corfu.t35.com jan kajander
artful_bodger
Robert Kahle's 2007 post was all I needed to hack the adapter. Using an
8 pin microchip 10f220, I wrote the following code. It's the .HEX If
you want the source PM me.
:020000040000FA
:0800080005281F28A300A40035
:100010000830A2002508A306A30C2508A300031C92
:1000200013281830A306A30C2308A5002408A30056
:100030000310A30C2308A400A20B0A280800A501A2
:10004000F0300620103006200000003006200000AE
:084000000100020003000400AE
:02400E00F93F78
:00000001FF
The code aint pretty, but it works.
This sends a fake 90W signal to the mobo to make it think a dell adapter
is connected. I needed it because I'm off grid and I only have 24VDC.
I step this down t 18V and use the PIC to fool the mobo. Been good for
9 months now.
You'll need an old plug to connect to the laptop and you'll need to
identify +, - and signal (centre) pin.
Connect 18V into the laptop. The centre pin of the goes to pin 3 of the
PIC.
Put a ge diode anode on pin 3, cathode k on pin 2.
Put 0v on pin 7. 330n cap pin 2 to pin 7. You get about 2.5V on pin 2,
which is just enough to power the PIC. The PIC waits about 200ms and
then sends the message when requested by the mobo. There is so little
current sent by the mobo that you can barely light a LED, so only use a
DVM and dont connect anything else!
I've tested it on 2 d610 and 1 d600. Flawless!
You'll need a good grasp of electronics to make sense of this, not to
mention programming PICs. I'm not selling these and dont intend to.
Usual disclaimers apply.
gsab...@gmail.com
P.S. I don`t know how to send PM to Artful_bodger
jon.mart...@gmail.com
Summery of strings from my power supplies:
MFG- ?? PS -W- -V- -A- --------SerialNumber-------- CRC-16
DELL 00 AC 150 195 077 CN-0J408P-48661-228-1U2D-A02 0x9447
DELL 00 AC 090 195 046 CN-0J62H3-71615-04N-49C3-A01 0xA76D
.... 00 AC 090 195 046 CN-0C2894-48661-475-6PD3-A02 0xD533
DELL 00 AC 090 195 046 CN-09T215-71615-41U-3355-L03 0x2564
DELL 00 AC 065 195 033 CN-05U092-71615-464-0220-A03 0xEF29
DELL 00 AC 065 195 033 CN-0F7970-71615-55G-02AB-A00 0x7DAB
Robert had it all right except for the last two digits which I have verified are a CRC16 of the previous 40 bytes.
Notes: The top supply above is 150 watts proving Robert right about the three digits. The third line is very interesting as the first four digits are nulls instead of "DELL". The CRC16 is either not valid or calculated different. But my laptops don't care!
Full read of device summarized on line 1 (150 Watt,DS2502 chip)
ROM data bytes are: Family[1], Address[6], and CRC[1]
09 1A 3A 0B 38 00 00 0E CRC is valid.
Chip = DS2502, 1024b Add-Only Memory
EPROM Status bytes are:
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 00 CRC:9C is valid.
EPROM Data is:
0000: 44 45 4C 4C 30 30 41 43 31 35 30 31 39 35 30 37
D E L L 0 0 A C 1 5 0 1 9 5 0 7
0010: 37 43 4E 30 4A 34 30 38 50 34 38 36 36 31 32 32
7 C N 0 J 4 0 8 P 4 8 6 6 1 2 2
0020: 38 31 55 32 44 41 30 32 47 94 FF FF FF FF FF FF
8 1 U 2 D A 0 2 G . . . . . . .
0030: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0040: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0050: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0060: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0070: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Entire EEPROM CRC: 1B is valid.
Calculated CRC16: 9447 on first 40 bytes of EPROM is a match.
Full read of device summarized on line 3. 90 Watt, old DS2501 chip, ** invalid 16bit CRC **, first 4 bytes do not say "DELL"!:
ROM data bytes are: Family[1], Address[6], and CRC[1]
11 54 DB 98 00 00 00 E7 CRC is valid.
Chip = DS2501, 512b Add-Only Memory
EPROM Status bytes are:
F3 FF FF FF FF FF FF 00 CRC:9C is valid.
EPROM Data is:
0000: 00 00 00 00 30 30 41 43 30 39 30 31 39 35 30 34
. . . . 0 0 A C 0 9 0 1 9 5 0 4
0010: 36 43 4E 30 43 32 38 39 34 34 38 36 36 31 34 37
6 C N 0 C 2 8 9 4 4 8 6 6 1 4 7
0020: 35 36 50 44 33 41 30 32 33 D5 FF FF FF FF FF FF
5 6 P D 3 A 0 2 3 . . . . . . .
0030: FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Invalid EPROM data CRC: FF Calculated CRC:57
Calculated CRC16: F3E4 on first 40 bytes of EPROM is NOT a match!
Hope this helps you.
I wrote the reader program for an arduino so it should be easy for anyone who wants to use it.
abdulla...@gmail.com
> Robert,Thanks for effort on this, my PA10 cord got frayed and looks like the brief short took out the DS2105. I opened up the power supply and I do not see the Zener and resistor internal to the supply maybe they moved that circuitry into the laptop. In my PA10 the DS2105 appears to be wired without any supply to it atleast internal to the power supply.The Zener that you mentioned was it internal to the power supply or did you trace it to within you laptop?ThanksMike
Respected Robert !
I have accidently shorted the centeral pin with the inner barel of my PA-10 and now this adapter is not working.
Kindly guide me to resolve this problem because i am am very much interested to repair this myself!
Impatiently waiting for your reply!
Mike S.
In article <17964487-34e3-4569...@googlegroups.com>,
original posters of this message thread are still reading the topic.
Hachiroku ハチロク
A lot easier than trying to repair it.
There may be a fuse in it, usually they are soldered to the board. These
things have short circuit protection so if it doesn't come back on after
removing the short there's more going on.
lopez....@gmail.com
It seems like I'm forced to go with your solution using the pic10F220 or re flashing the DS2502 and to practice my forgotten skills in programing with my PICkit 2. I needed the mentioned modification because a Dell D600 has problem with the DC jack and USB ports. So I bought a Docking Station which seems to be happy only with the PA-10 Geniune Chinese PS which I don't have. I opened another suitable Dell PS model ADP-90FB modded using the plug connector from a PA-12 and connected the DS2502 on it. The D600 is able to charge and works fine if I turned ON the laptop,let it pass all posts, and then plug the Docking. With this last process it results the Docking station bypassed its Power(turned off) and obviously not USB's or other Docking hardware is working.
So now after I explained my scenario please let me know the a suitable solution : a working Ds2502 firmware and instructions to load the program;
or a little schematic for the Pic10f220 on its VDD power supply(wanted to be sure the GE diode is detecting and rectifying some induced signals to produce the start up Vcc which is later taking from the output port pin #3).
Best Regards
Werner
nicr...@gmail.com
It's very importand for me.
Thanks
luke...@gmail.com
luke...@gmail.com
war...@gmail.com
Can you give me the source, I need to convert it to pic12f675 or 12f509...
Olivier
rank1...@gmail.com
All others of you, if anyone got source code in a meantime, don't hesitate to send it to me.
Thanks in advance.
adex...@gmail.com
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
I've tried Dell PSU Emulator based on PIC10F220 but it is not working.
I've found working one:
http://www.mikrocontroller.net/topic/186476
There is attachment with source code and binary HEX file.
I've tried with ATtiny13A and external 3.3V power supply (for testing purposes).
Fuse bits: 9.6MHz Internal RC and turned off the DIV-8 option.
rank1...@gmail.com
I'll check it out.
There is a strong reason why Dell PSU Emulator based on PIC10F220 isn't working, for ANYONE!
What I mean, you'll see in my following quote ...
rank1...@gmail.com
-----------------
:0800080005281F28A300A40035
:100010000830A2002508A306A30C2508A300031C92
:1000200013281830A306A30C2308A5002408A30056
:100030000310A30C2308A400A20B0A280800A501A2
:10004000F0300620103006200000003006200000AE
:084000000100020003000400AE
:02400E00F93F78
:00000001FF
WON'T work for PIC10F220, because that microchip has a 12-Bit Opcode and yours "claimed code" is for microchips with support for 14-Bit Opcode! (i.e; PIC16F688)
======
PROOF:
======
Firstly I'll format yours "claimed code":
-----------------
:02 0000 04 0000 FA
:08 0008 00 0528 1F28 A300 A400 35
:10 0010 00 0830 A200 2508 A306 A30C 2508 A300 031C 92
:10 0020 00 1328 1830 A306 A30C 2308 A500 2408 A300 56
:10 0030 00 0310 A30C 2308 A400 A20B 0A28 0800 A501 A2
:10 0040 00 F030 0620 1030 0620 0000 0030 0620 0000 AE
:08 4000 00 0100 0200 0300 0400 AE
:02 400E 00 F93F 78
:00 0000 01 FF
-----------------
Ignore first 3 columns and last 2 digit column.
Now, all 4 digit pairs, in between, are words!
And here comes an ultimate proof, that this code is for microchips with 14-Bit Opcode, meaning NOT for PIC10F220!
Code for PIC10F220, would have ZERO as third digit in EACH word, which isn't case here!
Additionally ...
It doesn't even have ANY OF LISTED IDENTIFICATION CODES of AC power supplies!
So, how can it send it, in order to emulate Dell's AC power supply?!?!
Lastly ...
Reverse engenired it and it practically does "some" nonsense!
And what you said? Oh yes ...
> The code aint pretty, but it works.
>
>
>
> This sends a fake 90W signal to the mobo to make it think a dell adapter
>
> is connected. I needed it because I'm off grid and I only have 24VDC.
>
> I step this down t 18V and use the PIC to fool the mobo. Been good for
>
> 9 months now.
> Usual disclaimers apply.
GO FUCK YOURSELF, YOU TIME WASTING PIECE OF SHIT !!!
Corporation like to hire "smart ones" in order to bring confusion into community, so that case is also an option.
Especially because this is an INTENTIONALY DESIGNED PARASITISM FROM DELL. Well fuck them!
What really frustrates me, is that NOBODY, hasn't detected at least ONE of my 3 detection steps !!!
THINK! Or OTHER will FOR YOU, straightly into THEIRS interest! Yea, be theirs bitch!
rober...@gmail.com
rank1...@gmail.com
Regarding CRC, is it true that it is CRC16 and NOT CRC8, which must be used?
I had to stop coding, as I've burnt 2 elements on D830 motherboard, which prevents even original functional dell power supplies, to be recognized.
I can't continue before I fix MBO.
It is not a big deal, I just need info from someone who has D830 MBO:
http://postimg.org/image/3srx9dxel/
In attached picture, are marked 3 small transistors.
Could you please take magnifier and powerful source of light to read code from them.
The most left one, resides near MBO's mark PD2, has code KJG.
The other 2, to the right, closest to the power jack, which codes do they have?
