Presario 2100 broken power connector
BillyBA
off inside the case. The male jack that you plug the power supply into
in the back of the machine is now inside the machine broken off the
motherboard. So there is not way to recharge the battery or get any
kind of power. I was talking one of my harware buddies and he told me
about a bunch of options:
- buy another power connector, take the laptop apart, unsolder the
broken connector from the motherboard, solder the new connector onto
the motherboard, then put the laptop back together.
- buy a new motherboard. Take the laptop apart, replace the
motherboard, then figure out to upgrade the new bios with all the
serial number information that is in the old bios.
- take it back to local computer store chain I bought it at to be
repaired.
- send it to HP/Compaq to be repaired.
- or cheat and buy a port replicator/docking station and don't bother
fixing the broken connector.
Can you think of any more options or reccomend which of the options
outlined looks good to you.
Mark
> The 'power connector' of my laptop (Compaq Presario 2100US) is broken
> off inside the case. The male jack that you plug the power supply into
> in the back of the machine is now inside the machine broken off the
> motherboard. So there is not way to recharge the battery or get any
> kind of power. I was talking one of my harware buddies and he told me
> about a bunch of options:
>
> - buy another power connector, take the laptop apart, unsolder the
> broken connector from the motherboard, solder the new connector onto
> the motherboard, then put the laptop back together.
This first suggestion would be my top choice (least expense if all goes
well), but it's not for everyone. The question is who should do the
work, which should be someone already comfortable (and successful) with
electronic equipment, and who is better known for soldering and
tweezers than hammer-and-tongs! Fully disassembling one's laptop is
definitely a heart-in-the-throat technical adventure, and should
probably not be one's very first... but it's a possibility.
> - buy a new motherboard. Take the laptop apart, replace the
> motherboard, then figure out to upgrade the new bios with all the
> serial number information that is in the old bios.
It probably doesn't call for a new motherboard, so I'd try to avoid
that expense. Last choice.
> - take it back to local computer store chain I bought it at to be
> repaired.
A local service place should at least be able to give you an accurate
estimate on the repair beforehand, based on the assumption that the
motherboard itself is undamaged (which is probably the case). It'll
be 90% assembly/disassembly work, so they should already know how long
it takes them. Ask around a bit in addition to the store, who may have
to "send it out" and charge you for an estimate that another place may
know from prior experience when asked directly.
> - send it to HP/Compaq to be repaired.
Factory service is a possibility, but they're more likely to quote
replacing the motherboard as a matter of policy rather than dealing
with the uncertainties of component-level repair, however simple it may
be. If shipping expenses are involved this is another minus, but I'd
still price them; no doubt they can just "look it up".
> - or cheat and buy a port replicator/docking station and don't bother
> fixing the broken connector.
This is a clever alternative I hadn't thought of. You'd have to
decide on the expense versus nuisance value of having something that
large serve as your charger/supply! If you'd kind of like a dock
anyway, at least you'd get something tangible for your expense. I see
this as a creative second choice. HOWEVER, if the battery jack has come
off the board entirely (take a peek through the hole), you should
definitely pursue repair instead. Loose parts seem to eventually land
in places where they cause the maximum possible damage, and then you'd
have a dock for a smoked laptop. (Perhaps you could disassemble it
enough to retrive the loose jack?)
> Can you think of any more options or reccomend which of the options
> outlined looks good to you.
I'd say you got a good list of options. It really comes down to
expense. How much to spend? How much to risk? If you elect to try it
yourself in some way (perhaps with the assistance of your hardware
guy?), I see that the Compaq website has a downloadable "Maintenance
and Service Guide" manual that has good disassembly instructions for
your model. I took this approach successfully myself, but my Compaq is
a lot older. Good luck!
BillyBA
> BillyBA wrote:
> > I obtained a Service Manual, got the laptop disassembled, removed the broken part, now I don't know how to find a replacement part. I don't have a part number. I do have a photo of the broken part. It is called an 'AC Adapter Jack'. My laptop is a Compaq Presario 2100US, US Product# DB954A, HP S# CN30221049, 266MHz DDR SDRAM.
> >
BillyBA
part. I even have a photo of the broken part but no part number to
search on. Does anyone know where I can find an 'AC Adapter Jack' (aka.
Power Supply Jack) for a Compaq Presario 2100US, US Product# DB954A, HP
S# CN30221049, 266MHz DDR SDRAM. Thanx in advance.
Mark
Wow -- you're clearly determined! To the extent that I helped get you
into this, let's see if I can help you get through it successfully.
The most fertile place for these parts appears to be on Ebay. A search
there for "Compaq 2100 power jack" (minus the quotes) turned up a
surprising number of sources. It looks like 6 or 7 dollars will get one
shipped to you. I don't have a favorite vendor to recommend (my jack
was reusable), but several sellers appear to have good pictures, high
user feedback ratings, and reasonable prices. It appears that various
flavors of 2100's used slightly different jacks, so compare the
"footprints" needed closely! One vendor listed in bold print the
models (2100US for one) in which he'd used a specific jack, which was
attractive. Take a look.
As for installation itself: One of the problems is that the jack is
mostly retained by the solder connections themselves. Solder is a
comparatively soft metal compound, and eventually the mechanical
fatigue from plug stresses causes the solder connections to fracture.
Mine apparently had a dab of adhesive applied under the jack when it
was originally installed, but it had never adhered to the PC board. (I
believe this was due to the flux and solder-mask material on the
board.) Before mounting and soldering the jack back in place, I used a
hobby knife (or scalpel, razor blade, etc.) to scrape clean the
non-electrical area right under the jack so that the fiberglass was
more directly exposed... no gouging, just roughed up a bit and without
the sheen that was present on the surface before. I cleaned the area
with alcohol also. (Obviously, if your board has little circuit traces
running right there, don't scrape; but it would be unusual for them
to be found there.) I used a dab of 10-minute epoxy under the jack to
help retain it, which still seems to be working. (I don't recommend
"super glue" here, as it is too hard to keep it only where you want
it, and it doesn't "fill" as well.)
Proceed carefully, don't skip any screws during reassembly, and you
will succeed. Good luck (and post how it went)!
v1rott
me get the case completely apart. :crybaby:
I have removed all of the externally visible screws including the ones
under the little rubber caps and there still seems to be something
holding the top and bottom together (it seems somewhere near the
center of the keyboard.
Can someone send/post some pictures or get me a copy of "the manual"
Thanks a bunch!
HH
Presario 2100 models:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/manualCategory?lc=en&lang=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=307167&
HH
"v1rott" <n...@spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:FNx9f.2644$vc4....@fe05.news.easynews.com...
stargazer257
removing the keyboard first. There are three screws under it that
need to be removed before the case will come completely apart.
First remove the two screws that go into the hinge area from the back
of the laptop. Then use a small flat screwdriver to remove the plate
above the keyboard (I went from right side to left - carefully). Four
screws will be revealed to remove the keyboard. Remove them, tilt KB
forward and remove cable from MB. Remove three screws and separate
case (assuming you already removed the scads of other screws from the
bottom and back of case), being carefull to remove interconnect cables
as you separate.
Good luck...SG257
ikenfixit
jacks".. Sorry to say but this is a big issue and we do a ton of
these if you want to try yourself we can help.. If you want us to
repair? we can help.. The jacks are available a heck of alot cheaper
than 6.00 off ebay.. (I can get 5 for this price).. Buzz us if yu
have any laptop issue as we try to help everyone.. (Yes even the
freebies).. Ken
gork
I have the same problem but with an Presario R3240US.
The problem is that i can't take it appart - I got to the step where i
remove the fans and on the back side, but i can't figure out how to
remove the mainboard - its not pissible to remove the keyboard...
Thanks
ikenfixit
spend 6 days explaining how to's on disassembly and the reverse
process especially if something goes awry in the process. Just call
if you want to try it yourself and it will be easier to explain this
way. Not to be A stickler but the R-3k series is a bear to do, The
2100? get the rear panel of behind the keyboard off first and the
rest is self explanitory.. Good luck all..
Mark
Typically, one would remove the keyboard earlier in the process. Is the
step you are referring to from the Compaq service literature? If not,
take a look at-
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00212209.pdf
It's tough to find (or remember!) all of the screws here and there
without a map of some kind. (Thus, the apparent typo in you messge on
what's "possible" is more likely a Freudean slip... but I agree with
you!) I'm not familiar with your model so I can't offer any hot
"tips" other that to look at section 5.10 of the manual for some
insight. It says it's for the "R3000 Notebook PC Series", so
that's what I'd look at myself. Good luck!
Wanzi
my Pool Table and waiting for the $3 part off of ebay to come in the
mail now. I used a Radio Shack solder gun @ 30 amps to remove the
old power jack which was pretty easy... now if I can just remember
how to put the thing back together after I get the part.
stargazer257
sure sounds like a lot, but I can understand it. When I removed my
connector (from a 2100) in order to replace it it was a real pain to
remove. It almost seemed to not want to draw in any heat into the
solder lug, as if I blew a breaker on the soldering iron. I was
getting a bit worried about damaging some of the small components
near the power connector due to overheating, but I finally got the
old connector off, the holes in the MB cleared and the new connector
on. Works like a champ now...
Good luck with yours...
SG257
pab1953
find the non-obvious screws on the case, so this thread has been very
helpful.
I'm guessing this would be a $200US-ish job at a local computer shop,
so the effort is worth the money ... assuming I don't eff the job up
and kill the notebook, which is very easy to imagine doing.
Talking of murder, who the hell's responsible for this delightful
piece of hardware design that has so many of us tearing our hair out
and wasting time and money? As far as I'm concerned, it has seriously
interrupted my work.
With so many people experiencing the same problem, is there grounds
for a class action lawsuit against HP?
Meanwhile, back at the disemboweling, where did I put all those screws
...
pab1953
power pin, which is wobbly but not broken off, once I get the box
open? Or will I almost certainly need to use a new one?
Thank you.
stargazer257
actually broke. The price for the part on eBay was dirt cheap, quick
to arrive, and worth the comfort of a solid repair.
In my case the laptop wouldn't even run, and once the repair was
effected, the unit booted up under battery power (must have been a
short?). Whew!
Good luck with those screws...let us know if you still need help
finding them...I needed it.
pab1953
disassembly is a small black lead going from the motherboard to
display or somewhere. Should this be disconnected? I can't see how.
As regards the power connector, there it sits black and wobbly -- and
very small and cramped. What do I do now? Can I solder it so it
doesn't wobble? Do I remove it (how?) and replace it?
Help :paranoid:
Thanks. :)
Mark
If the connector itself is intact, it might just need to be resoldered
to the circuit board. However, if there is ANY damage or shortfall
whatsoever (loose center contact pin, cracked connector body, etc.) you
absolutely should replace it. It makes no sense to go through this much
grief and not make the very best repair possible. Soldering the
connector in place will require access to the underside of the board,
which generally means having to remove everything from the case in
order to extract the motherboard. The appropriate service literature
for your model should be downloaded and examined if at all available.
While not always perfect, it's a really big help. There appears to be
one for the 2100, depending on the specific model. See the
"Support" section for your model, select "Manuals" and look for
the Compaq "Maintenance and Service Guide". If I'm right, you can
just download--
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00246219.pdf
It CAN be done; good luck!
pab1953
Hit a deadend with removing the motherboard. Guess I'll try and read
the manual.
I've removed all visible screws, including the six on the I/O ports.
Most of the MB lifts up but there's resistence on the side with the
PC card reader.
Should I remove the PC card reader? Can't see how, even though I've
removed all visible screws.
stargazer257
is what my memory serves...Remove:
six "screws" for the I/O ports on the back of the laptop (you've got
it already)
two long screws from the PCMCIA card slots.
two screws that hold the hard drive "cage"
two (?) screws that hold a metal "shield," just left of the hard
drive
two (?) screws under the shield you just removed
one (?) close to the power connector
There were 1-3 others I believe, but they were obvious.
One last one...there are three screws holding down the
heatsink/heatblock on the cpu, you need to loosen (not remove) the
ONE towards the back of the laptop. Loosening this screw removes
pressure on the metal frame at the back of the laptop. JUST DON'T
Forget to retighten it when reassembling the unit!
The only other "hang-up" I had was the audio jacks where they
penetrate through the case. GENTLE prying or jiggling the MB shoud
allow these to clear. Otherwise the MB should just lift out without
any effort. So if it is still stuck, there is still a screw to
go...
====
SG257
stargazer257
pab1953 wrote:
> ... you absolutely should replace it. It makes no sense to go
through this much
> grief and not make the very best repair possible. ...
>
> ...It CAN be done; good luck!I
wholeheartedly agree!
pab1953
I've read the manual. I've read the posts. I've removed what I'm
supposed to remove (I'm pretty sure). And still the MB won't "just
lift out."
The biggest resistence is up near the heatsink and the two adjacement
I/O. Seems firmly wedged there.
dickydoo
"pab1953" <n...@spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:eS9df.8181$eX4....@fe07.news.easynews.com...
Get it done by a computer tech then you have a warranty if it is stuffed.
stargazer257
Confounded.
>
> I've read the manual. I've read the posts. I've removed what I'm
supposed to remove (I'm pretty sure). And still the MB won't "just
lift out."
>
> The biggest resistence is up near the heatsink and the two
it. Then maybe one of us can pinpoint it for you.
It should just tilt out, pivoting along the back edge a bit, then lift
out completely. Until it does this easily, something is still
remaining that must be removed.
SG257
pab1953
removed everything correctly, I just didn't know how to tug the board
loose).
A small piece of plastic came off the power connector, so I guess I
need a new one.
Is eBay the best source?
stargazer257
Is eBay the best source?It was for me. Less than $6 shipped to my
door in two-three days. Search eBay for compaq
presario 2100 jack should get it. The vendor I used
is also selling lots of 10 jacks for
22.99 buy-it-now instead of 2.99 (so obviously don't choose that one
unless you have 9 more laptops to fix...). You may find one for
less, and if you can [b:9fcf29d244]and [/b:9fcf29d244]they can get it
to you within two days go for it. Otherwise, I'd go eBay.
ps, match the picture on eBay with the jack on your board.[/i]
Wanzi
though. So here's a note to all other people w/ this problem:
Your laptop will be 100% dismantled for this repair. As long as
you're a confident person, all you'll need to fix is the $5 part from
EBAY, a soldering iron and solder from Radio Shack for $8, a small
phillips screwdriver and some needle nose pliers.
Take it all apart, you'll have the motherboard in your hand as you'll
need to un-solder the from the bottom of it. Heat up the 3 pieces
and pry that pos off. Place new one on, apply a 3 beads of solder in
the correct places. Put it back together and turn it on... took me 90
mins and I have no soldering experience whatsoever and had to solder
the fan jack on my mobo that I snapped off by accident too. One more
thing is I re-greased my processor w/ Artic Silver while it was apart
and it runs about 5 degrees cooler now :)
Disclaimer: This website nor Wanzi are responsible for you're n00bish
efforts at fixing bad powerjacks on your laptop. If things go wrong,
let it be known that these are words of advise and should be
addressed w/ caution and at your own risk.
gork
pab1953
in removing the old one, one of the pins broke off. So the old
connector is gone but a piece of a pin is left in one of the holes
... soldered.
There's no end to grab. But even if I could, there's the solder. How
do you melt the solder without burning the board? Any suggestions?
Thanks.
stargazer257
hobbiest/hack. But the things that come to mind are to either drill
it out with a TINY drill (dremel?) or to heat up the joint in the
board (may have to apply a bit of solder to get the heat to conduct
into the board) and try to shove a more intact piece of one of the
remaining pins back through, pushing the broken one out (or use a
mini screwdriver in lieu of one of the pins, they will possibly just
bend).
Either way, you could probably use an extra set of hands. I did with
mine, one of my pins were really in the board and I needed someone
else to pull on the tab while I heated and held the board.
Definitely get other advice than mine, from someone who has
experienced this problem in real life. And good luck man!
Mark
at hand a technique that will get the job done without having to heat
the solder pad for an excessive amount of time. I'll propose two
methods; a combination of the two will probably be the most effective.
If you can get help, so much the better, but here's what I'd do if
I could be there:
First off, you need to be using a proper soldering iron. A small one
(say 15 watts) that would be appropriate for the smaller circuitry
elsewhere would take to long to heat this larger joint; on the other
hand, too large an iron could quickly overheat the board (as you have
been concerned) and cause the soldering pads to lift right off the
board! Something around 30 or 40 watts should be about right. (For
example, a 140-watt soldering gun would be out of the question!)
Since there's nothing to grab, I'd heat the joint and poke the
broken stub out with something. The "something" can be anything
that will itself fit thru the slot without either catching on fire or
becoming soldered into the slot itself. I've often used the
appropriate diameter of one of my cheap set of jeweler's
screwdrivers, or even the "back" end of a small drill bit. You can
pick the right tool by testing it on one of the already-open slots. (It
needs to be something fairly small so that it will not "soak up"
too much heat and inhibit the process.) You'll have to heat and poke
simultaneously by applying the soldering iron tip to the solder at the
side of the slot, so you can run your "poker" thru as soon as the
solder becomes flowable. Since the broken terminal may have become a
bit club-footed on the top, I'd work and poke from the bottom side of
the board, as the terminal may not pass through going the other
direction.
The other approach is to remove nearly all the solder so that there is
little to retain the terminal stub. This could be done with a number of
solder-removal devices, but the simplest is merely a copper braid used
to wick-up molten solder. The material is laid over the solder you wish
to remove, and then the iron is applied to the braid which draws the
molten solder away by capillary action. It may take a few applications
of "fresh" sections of braid in succession to get all the solder.
The most common product variety is called "Solder-Wick". Radio
Shack stocks a product they call "desoldering braid".
Doing a bit of the solder wicking action may make the first method
above go more easily by making the stub easier to see and poke at, or
it may even be effective all by itself. Each problem is a bit
different, but it can be overcome. You're almost there! it may help
to visualize and practice (with the iron off) how you might best hold
what without burning yourself so you'll have a technique in mind once
you actually start. Good luck!
crazykid55555
someone confirm if
http://cgi.ebay.com/Compaq-Presario-DC-Power-Jack-1000-1200-XL-XF-XZ-HP-ZE_W0QQitemZ6824420651QQcategoryZ80203QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
is the right jack for a Compaq Presario 2100US? Thanks in advance.
crazykid55555
side of the motherboard? I don't want to remove the motherboard from
the case because that will be a bit annoying. I just have to solder
the new piece from the top right?
stargazer257
I have another question. Do I have to have any contact with the
bottom side of the motherboard? I don't want to remove the
motherboard from the case because that will be a bit annoying. I just
remove the motherboard to gain access to where you de-solder the old
jack and re-solder the new one in. You cannot do the repair from the
top, and you will be more comfortable with the actual repair with the
motherboard removed. Check out earlier posts in this thread to see
how it is done.
stargazer257
There are different type of jacks on Ebay for Compaq Presarios. Can
someone confirm if
http://cgi.ebay.com/Compaq-Presario-DC-Power-Jack-1000-1200-XL-XF-XZ-HP-ZE_W0QQitemZ6824420651QQcategoryZ80203QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
have a 2100US and it "LOOKS" correct. Compare it with this link
http://cgi.ebay.com/Compaq-Presario-Power-Jack-1600-1800-2100-2500-2700-A_W0QQitemZ8727856941QQcategoryZ31534QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
which is the one I used to repair my laptop.
venkatfilms
I have a compaq presario 2100 model laptop. My ac jack is found to be
the problem. As discussed, i have thought of buying a docking station
for that. But, the latop i have doesnot have the docking connector
(bottom side of the notebook).
I just see a rectangular marking on the back side. WHat should i do?
1. buy a new backside case? or
2. is it possible to just mount that docking connector to my existing
backside case
Please gimme suggestions...
Also, how much does it cost just for docking connector or new backside
case...
Bye
Mark
I don't have a 2100, but I see by looking at Compaq's
"Maintenance and Service Guide" that the docking port connector
appears "on certain models" in the series. A new lower case half
(with a cutout and cover for the port) would not help, as the needed
connector (and probable support circuitry) would undoubtedly be absent
also. The odds of adding a connector would be slim. On most systems, it
typically mounts to the motherboard itself, so adding it -- even if
possible (or available!) -- would be far more complex than replacing
the DC power connector.
I do notice that the 2100 parts list shows a "port replicator
cover", and the bottom view drawings show a rectangular cutout shown
as "port replicator connect" on the bottom near the rear of the
notebook. Is yours just an outline in the case plastic as it appears,
or is it perhaps a removable cover? Take a close look... it would be
great if it's just there waiting for you to uncover! But if it's
not... then it's not, and won't be. Good luck!
ikenfixit
w/docking station capabilities. On another note? Quit feeding E-bay
and go to Digi-key.com or Mouser.com for the jacks? I can get these
for a whopping 60C per and man I hate to see people getting ripped by
the E-bay scammers selling at 500% profit margins. (I know I started
there buying and selling inop laptops) If anybody needs how-to help
or info feel free to contact us also. We do these for 89.00 parts and
labor plus a whopping 14.00 for return ship if you cannot do the job.
Also good posting on the genteman offering info on the desoldering
braid and other options! (We have to tell people this every day via
phone).. But 40 watts is a min ammt need for the iron to get it to
flow w/ wick involved on the negative side for these. Good luck all.
pab1953
When last we spoke, children, Uncle Phil had a piece of the old
connector stuck in the motherf%&#&^board. Well, in
desperatation and with not a little good luck, the heated soldering
iron judiciously rammed into the offending piece eventually made it
yield and come free.
I installed the new connector purchased on eBay, did some really ugly
soldering (my first attempt in this life), and everything worked.
And, lo, there was joy in the land!..
... For 10 days.
After 10 days of working just fine, the new connector went on the
fritz. Or at least the HP recognized the power cord being plugged in
less and less. Finally, it didn't recognize it at all. And then
finally the battery drained -- and all was dark in the land, and has
been for several days (and with another mess of work stranded on the
laptop -- I fought furiously against the dying battery to burn a CD
with this new content, but I lost the battle, the CD wouldn't burn).
Now an expert at dismantling a 2100 -- I can almost do it in my sleep
-- I've taken the beast apart two or three times scouting for clues
to the latest dilemma. The new connector is rock solid (held with
solder and Gorilla glue). Don't know what the problem is. Any ideas?
One other thing. When I took the machine apart, an mb component fell
off -- a half inch square by quarter inch gray block below the right
arm of the cooling fan "brace." There are two of these "blocks"
present, with this on them: 1206-OR5 / TMP 336T. Any idea what they
are and how they affect my sorry equation? I Gorilla-glued on the one
that fell off and it held fine.
Also: will it affect start-up if the antenna connectors on the
underside of the mother are not connected. Didn't seem to, but they
were too fiddly, so I left them.
BTW Thanks for everyone's help and advice. And I look forward
appreciately to the next batch in the hope you can help bail me out
of the present mess.
stargazer257
Things "falling off the MB" doesn't sound good. Can you post/link
some pictures? I don't have the 2100 I was repairing anymore (it was
my sister's) to compare with.
SG257
Mark
pab1953 wrote:
>...
> ...the HP recognized the power cord being plugged in less and less. Finally, it didn't recognize it at all.
> ...
> When I took the machine apart, an mb component fell off -- a half inch square by quarter inch gray block below the right arm of the cooling fan "brace." There are two of these "blocks" present, with this on them: 1206-OR5 / TMP 336T.
An irritant that can also cause loss of power is failure at the DC
cord/plug connection. This occurs when flexing of the cord's wire
strands causes them to fracture inside the insulation, which typically
occurs right where the cord enters the plug that you insert into your
(new!) board receptacle. It usually goes thru an initial intermittent
period, but will work temporarily if you grasp the cord just behind the
plug and push it toward the plug body and see if power is restored. If
so, the cure is to snip off the old plug, get a new one, and solder it
to a "fresh" wire portion an inch or two farther back. While it's
a smaller repair job than you've already accomplished, it requires
more genteel soldering technique compared to the board jack, and
getting the polarity correct (which wire is where) is also essential.
An inexpensive voltmeter would help with this, in addition to seeing if
there's any power present at the existing plug or not.
As for the loose board component, that's particularly disturbing;
they normally don't just fall off! I don't have a 2100, but the
presence of numbers on the stray part suggests that it's not just a
spacer or something, and probably needs to be soldered in place. (If
so, the Gorilla-glue will present a problem.) Speculation: parts with
that shape and size are often small transformer or inductors used in
power supply switching and regulating. Googling reveals that the
letters "TMP" might be "Taipei Multipower Electronics", which
makes such devices. Does the other (?) one apparently still in place
show a solder fillet at each end like the other surface-mounted devices
on the board? With luck, the loose one somehow got karate'd off the
board, and might possibly be soldered back in place, unless the
part's -- or most important, the board's -- solder pads were
damaged. You might surf around in the "products" section of-
http://www.tmpco.com.tw
Do any of those coils or transformers look like the part? These are
usually in series with essential power circuitry, so a missing one
would indeed bring things to a halt. (This may mean your DC power cord
mentioned earlier is not the problem, but that's little solace by
comparison.) Replacing the loose part with the same or a replacement
part is a possibility if the motherboard itself is undamaged, but
things are now officially becoming difficult.
As for the wireless antenna, it hurts nothing if not connected. I'd
connect it the last time you assemble the laptop, just to have the
capability available, though. (And yes, I do know the joke is how to
KNOW when the last time IS!)
shrew
[URL=http://img272.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture213qn.jpg]http://img272.imageshack.us/img272/7699/picture213qn.th.jpg[/URL]
if so then they indeed to need to be soldered in place and would cause
said problem. And if you are unsure about your soldering skill i would
suggest you not attempt this till you are, find a friend or someone
whom you trust to do the work.
pab1953
I'd send a photo. Whatever the piece was, I glued it into place and
it seemed to hold fine. But of course maybe it's connected to the
problems I'm having. Yet everything works okay on the laptop when
it's being powered from the battery. But now the battery's drained.
pab1953
fell off isn't visible -- it's "north" of the blue sticker item,
under the cooling component.
spazbam
>
> I HAVE A PRESARIO 2100US AND IN ORDER TO GET POWER TO IT I HAVE TO
BEND CORD
>
> AND IN AC JACK SEEMS A LITTLE LOOSE
>
> DO I NEED TO REPLACE AC JACK AND IF SO IS I CONNECTED TO THE
MOTHERBOARD OR IS IT A SEPERATE PART
>
> WHAT CAN I DO?
Ugh, you described my problem perfectly....i bought 3 new adaptors
like an idiot thinking that was the problem, then i got so irritated
i thoguht about selling it on ebay lol...i do not believe i am that
technically saavy to fix it myself. Is anybody still out there to
help out, maybe fix it for a price?
HH
motherboard, which will likely need to be pulled from the notebook.
Possdibly it can be made secure with a re-solder.
HH
"spazbam" <n...@spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:12h564o...@news.supernews.com...
Max Lynn
entire unit (and believe me it is a terribly intricate job). What I found
was that the power plug is on a small board (less than 1" square) which
plugs into the motherboard. I unsoldered the external plug from this small
board, and after playing around with it, I found that the little plastic tip
on the male side of the plug was preventing contact from being made with the
on-board, female side of the plug. I trimmed some of the plastic away from
the tip (sort of made it conical in shape) and it has been working
reasonably well since then. What was the amazing is that I was able to
resolder the plug to the board and completely reassemble the whole laptop
and it worked!! I say the plug has been working "reasonably well". That is
to say, if you aren't careful when you move the machine around, the cord
side (male) part of the connector sort of works itself out of the side of
the unit very easily. This is sure a weak link in this whole setup, but I
don't have a good solution. I suppose you might be able to find a new
on-board connector, but I tried and had a lot of trouble identifying the
correct part.
Good luck
Max Lynn
"HH" <hahu...@kgexpress.net> wrote in message
news:4512e0a2$0$34081$815e...@news.qwest.net...
spazbam
doing without much computer background?
> HHwrote:
More than likely, the connector is hard soldered directly on the
> motherboard, which will likely need to be pulled from the notebook.
> Possdibly it can be made secure with a re-solder.
>
> HH
>
> "spazbam" <n...@spam.invalid> wrote in message
> news:12h564o...@news.supernews.com...
> sanmor8wrote:
>
>
> I HAVE A PRESARIO 2100US AND IN ORDER TO GET POWER TO IT I HAVE TO
> BEND CORD
>
> AND IN AC JACK SEEMS A LITTLE LOOSE
>
> DO I NEED TO REPLACE AC JACK AND IF SO IS I CONNECTED TO THE
> MOTHERBOARD OR IS IT A SEPERATE PART
>
> WHAT CAN I DO?
>
>
>
>
> Ugh, you described my problem perfectly....i bought 3 new adaptors
> like an idiot thinking that was the problem, then i got so
irritated
> i thoguht about selling it on ebay lol...i do not believe i am that
> technically saavy to fix it myself. Is anybody still out there to
> help out, maybe fix it for a price?
> [/quote:e48267c63c]
spazbam
"some" of the backing, i couldnt figure out why it wouldnt
come off completely i have to read the rest of the post to find out
how others did it. But, i did find out that is most certainly the
little plug, it's just a tiny little plastic piece that appears to
have maybe a metal? tiny ring on the bottom. I am tempted to get the
part of ebay, but i havent the slightest idea what it means to solder
something. I can figure things out, but im wondering if i botch the
job if i ruin the computer completely. I called a couple of places
and they want to charge 75 an hour just to look at it. One guy said
i needed a new battery? Yes these are the professionals. Theyu are
all in agreement on one thing, i should get a new mother board. Some
people have mentioned a docking station or "port
replicator". Are these a viable alternative? I could still
disconnect from the station any time i wanted correct? They are just
a power up method alternative to this mess? I appreciate all of your
help guys. Thank You!!
spazbam
spazbam
spazbam
me...but he wants one thing, a picture/diagram of where the piece
should end up on the board...the little piece actually fell out of
the back when i opened it up he can't place based on a prior
positioning. Any suggestions? I see the picture above, but i cant
tell which is the blue sticker and where thje location is ni regards
to the rest of the board. Any suggestions?
Max Lynn
female plug for the input power was to be found on a tiny (roughly one inch
square) "daughter" circuit board. This tiny board in turn had a second plug
which connected it to the system/motherboard. There was, in my case, no
problem with this female plug or any of the internals, but I didn't discover
that until I had desoldered the female plug from the tiny circuit board. I
can't decipher from what you have described how the piece that fell from
your unit fits into this picture. None of the parts that I disassembled
would have "fallen" from the case without some urging on my part.
Now it's difficult to describe, but I isolated my problem to the male plug
which is on the end of the small wire which comes from the external power
brick to the laptop. The small male plug on the end which goes into the
side of the laptop has a short metal band near the end the end, and at the
very tip, there's a plastic tip. The metal band is the DC ground for the
18vDC coming from the power brick. This metal band is supposed make contact
with a leaf spring-like contact within the laptop's female plug (the one
that I desoldered). At the very tip of the external, male plug, I found
that there was about a one-sixteenth inch of plastic tip which was a larger
diameter than the metal band providing DC ground. This plastic tip would
make contact with the leaf-like contact in the plug on the laptop, and not
allow the metal band to connect electrically to the laptop's DC ground. I
filed the plastic tip down to decrease its diameter, and Voila!, I got
continuity through the plug for the 18 VDC ground from the power brick.
Does any of this help?
Max Lynn
"spazbam" <n...@spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:12hl5ei...@news.supernews.com...
stargazer257
power jack is just out of the frame, above the left side of it. The
person posting the picture was indicating a part (not the power jack)
that fell off his motherboard, so don't focus on the "blue
sticker," it's not relevant to what you want to repair. BTW,
the view in the photo is from the left side of the laptop.
Per your request for a picture, I can't help (I don't have the laptop
anymore).
As for the need for a picture, I seriously doubt that your repair
person would need it. The power plug you are replacing is relatively
big and it's obvious where it goes on the motherboard, plus it lines
up with the hole in the back of the laptop.
It's been about a year since I did my repair and IIRC, there were
three tabs that connected the jack to the MB. They were a bit tough
to extract (especially the one that was broken off!), but careful and
patient persistence paid off. It was one of the more challenging jobs
(for me) to attempt (due to risk of more damage), but the reward for a
$5 replacement part correctly installed was worth it.
Other suggestions: It sounds as if you read this thread so heed the
advice and warnings. I used what had been posted to date when I did
my repair to help me and added my comments and experiences to
hopefully help others with the same dilemma. Make sure your repair
person reads this thread as well. It it best read before you attempt
the repair than after.
Good luck and let us know how it goes,
SG257
abortretryfail
able to get my presario 2100 apart. I found that one of three prongs
on the power adapter had snapped off.
I've got the new part in hand, but in my haste to get the MB out
something fell off ... a little black component with "3A 6-3V
-/+" being the only distinguishable marks. Any help identifying
the component and where to solder it back would be hugely
appreciated.
I'll try and post a picture as soon as I find my camera.
Thanks in advance.
- Kevin
stargazer257
You gave a great description of your problem and solution. Too bad
all fixes are not that simple (at least once you figure out what the
problem is!!).
Just thinking here, could the plastic on your adapter's plug (that you
had to file down) have gotten too warm and distorted (i.e.,
"mushroomed") itself? Again, just thinking outloud here...
Max Lynn
lost some of its spring or got distorted ( I confess to having abused the
plug while it was connected). As a result, it think the plastic began to be
the only contact rather than the metal band. The contact is obviously a
weak point, and may eventually fail completely, but I'll know what is wrong
at that point. Your suggestion may be true as well. This is not a robust
design.
Max Lynn
"stargazer257" <n...@spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:12hs5ad...@news.supernews.com...
Wanzi
through dumb luck! For those that missed it, my 1st posts in this
thread are key toward fixing this problem on your own... others have
posted and really helped out as well from what I've read.
KK, It worked for almost a whole year and now my replacement powerjack
fryed out on me. I can take it all apart and go through that hastle
again, or I can get a docking station. Being that these powerjacks
from the manufacturer and the replacement powerjack from Ebay lasts
~1 year in my case, I'm going to buy a port replicator / docking
station tomorrow.
So those of you know, either of those are indifferent to your problem
as they both power your laptop through different means, that being
the "docking connector" on the bottom of your laptop.
Docking Stations are more expensive because they have the ability to
harness 1 or 2 pci cards for expansion. So if you just want it to
work w/out losing capacitors like 2 have mentioned, or ripping one of
the fans off like I did (but resoldered it back on) you should
seriously think about getting a Port Replicator. I would be dead
against that suggestion, however... if those jacks still go bad after
replacing them w/ a laptop that's stationary it's not worth the
aggrevation 1ce a year to deal with IMHO.
GG
- Wanzi
fetty0565
HELP!!!!!!!!!
fetty0565
that I can get the new one in. Is there any tricks to getting these
out???? Also, Do I have to solder it once I get it in ??
stargazer257
I also can't get two of the three prongs out of the motherboard, so
that I can get the new one in. Is there any tricks to getting these
out???? Also, Do I have to solder it once I get it in ??
Is there anything to grab onto with a pair of needle nose pliers
perhaps?
If you go back about a year in this thread, I discussed my problems
removing the prongs and my success. It took some extra hands to pull
gently/firmly while I heated the joint. I was suprised at how tough
it was. I thought I was going to break the MB.
And I am assuming that you were able to completely remove the
motherboard (MB) to do this. If it is not completely out, you can't
really get to everywhere you need to get.
Those are the only tricks I can offer, check the ENTIRE thread for
other advice as well.
And yes, you must solder the new jack in. If you don't know how to
solder, then you already have gone too far on your own. Not being
critical, just a realist.
Keep on letting us know your problems and successes. This has been a
LONG running thread and was helpful to me a year ago when working on
my sister's compaq. We've heard most of the problems before, so keep
giving us a try....
Wanzi
and it fits in my Laptop carrying case. I'm excited about it...
Anyways. I had a relatively large sottering gun compared to others
used in this thread, 30 volts I think. Heat up that pos prong thing
till it's blazing, and pullem out w/ needle nose pliers.
ikenfixit
then you just put the new jack in and resolder.. Be sure on the Athlon
boards to solder the trace on the top side as this is where the
positive connects on this revision. Mouser.com or digi-key for the
2.5mm jacks.
mike
I replaced one on a toshiba. Replacement jack plugged right into the
board. Only problem was that the connector pin order was reversed.
had to super glue it upside down and wire it in.
Be absotively posilutely certain that the power plug pins map to the
correct board traces. All sockets are not constructed the same.
mike
RobBob
Well, thanks for the info in this thread. I've just found an issue with
a bad jack/plug that I compounded with a cheap knock off supply
replacement. With the info I've found here and on Compaq's site I'm
going to do the repair myself.
Just thought I'd throw a few things out for those attempting the
same...
_PART_INFO_
'Laptopjacks.com' (http://www.laptopjacks.com) has info for DC input
jacks for all kinds of machines. Am I the only one that finds a site
devoted to this issue amusing? Anyway, it gives you a part number to
go with even if you don't order from them (they're pricey @ $8ea and
$8S&H for a one-off item). For compaq presario 2100 series laptops,
the part appears to be 'CQ21325'
(http://www.laptopjacks.com/view_part.php?id=CQ21325)
_SOLDERING_TIPS_
Generally speaking, you want high heat for short periods of time. The
solder should liquify almost instantly. Sustained heat on a PCB is not
a good thing and can damage pads/traces.
Use pure solder, not resin core stuff. It's bulky, it makes a mess and
isn't necessary on PCB soldering.
To remove solder, a de-soldering tool (like a mini turkey baster) can
suck up liquid (molten) solder or you can use solder-wick (copper mesh
that absorbes solder).
When removing defective components, I find it easier to snip them off
at the legs/pins and remove the individual legs one at a time instead
of trying to get the entire thing out together.
When soldering, I find it best to heat the pin/wire and apply solder to
the pin. This avoids heat transfer to the board as much as possible.
Solder joints should taper up like a hershey's kiss, not mound up like
a bubble. It should also be shiny. Dull/low-luster solder "balls" are
usually cold solder joints and are not dependable, particularly on
something that will see some abuse.
--
RobBob
------------------------------------------------------------------------
RobBob's Profile: http://www.futurehardware.in/member.php?userid=398
View this thread: http://www.futurehardware.in/showthread.php?t=356395
Future Hardware - http://www.futurehardware.in
RobBob
I almost forgot... Did anyone notice the discrepancy between the
computer's designated DC power requirements and the output power of the
AC adapter?
The guy at the service shop brought this up. The web site and adapter
itself indicate 90Watts (18....@4.9A) required. The computer's DC
input sticker (on the bottom) indicates that it needs 75Watts
(19...@3.95A).
Should it make a difference, I'm using a 2175US model, product#DK576A.
tchiseen
I'm having some problems, I recently got gifted a presario 2500 which
was very poorly repaired by some twit in thailand or somthing, they'd
ripped out the power jack and cut the wire on the charger so now it's
just two wires coming out the end of it.
The odd thing is, it actually worked. it booted up and asked me if i
wanted to start windows in safemode. it did it once, however, and now
wont boot at all. I had the feeling it was something to do with the
abs. rubbish wire stripping/soldering/hot glue job someone had done,
so i took it all apart.
I have a few pictures of the situation the motherboard is in. I've
looked into getting a new jack for the mobo, but re-considered it.
I'd like to know if anyone can help me to get this to work. I'm not
too concerned about using this as a portable computer, although it
would be nice, I don't want to have to spend too much... I have looked
for docking stations on ebay australia, couldnt find any. which model
of dock should i be looking for? If I wanted to, however, judging by
the photos, would i be able to de-solder the board and purchase a new
charger and get it to work? I'm also considering simply re-soldering
the cut power cable onto the board, is this a good or bad idea?
Thanks very much for any help.
PICS -
http://www.imagebeaver.com/view.php?mode=gallery&g=222019
stargazer257
be your best option seeing as you don't want to go portable with it).
If you are handy with this type of repair, the cost of the replacement
jack shouldn't be too much and may make it worth a try. Have patience
however, whoever did the previous "fix" made your repair a
bit more challenging, and iffy. So no guarantee that it will actually
work, but at least you shouldn't be out too much $$ to try.
Best of luck to you mate.