Generator Useage

Dottie

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May 27, 2008, 5:16:39 PM5/27/08

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I am going to buy a generator this year (I'm in FL). I have a chart
showing how many watts most appliances use but what I need is a chart
showing how many amps each appliance uses. Does anyone know of a
chart online that I could print out? Thanks.

RBM

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May 27, 2008, 5:32:09 PM5/27/08

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"Dottie" <Dorot...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:5ea8a5c3-14b2-4789...@x35g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

Watts equals volts X amps. If you know the wattage, divide that number by
the voltage, (usually 120 for plug in appliances, and 240 for built in
cooktops, ranges, etc) and you will get your amperage

hal...@aol.com

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May 27, 2008, 5:39:44 PM5/27/08

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On May 27, 5:32�pm, "RBM" <r...@noemail.com> wrote:
> "Dottie" <Dorot29...@aol.com> wrote in message

large generators are gasoline piggies.

have you considered a propane or natural gas generator??

todays gasoline spoils fast, even with stabilizer.

you dont need enough power to run your home normally, just run things
sequentially. small window AC kept just for emergencies, fridge,
freezer etc run one at a time.

leave enough capacity to help neighbors so they cant complain of the
noise

Clint

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May 27, 2008, 6:44:05 PM5/27/08

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"Dottie" <Dorot...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:5ea8a5c3-14b2-4789...@x35g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...

Be sure to look into a transfer switch. They are used to prevent current
from entering the grid. This is very important to the safety of the power
company folks. If you plan to use extension cords only, perhaps a transfer
switch is not needed. Good luck Clint

Dottie

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May 27, 2008, 7:39:31 PM5/27/08

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On May 27, 6:44 pm, "Clint" <clinton.sto...@verizon.net> wrote:
> "Dottie" <Dorot29...@aol.com> wrote in message

Thank you! This year I will probably use extensions cords then next
year will buy a transfer switch.

Erma1ina

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May 27, 2008, 8:05:00 PM5/27/08

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Check out the following:

http://www.nooutage.com/generato2.htm

and

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/Products/Generators/content.aspx?asset=gg_wattage

Dottie, if you're looking for a good, reliable, highly energy-efficient
(approx 8 hrs powering realistic loads on 1 gal. gas) , quiet generator
that is truly portable (approx. 50 lbs fully-gassed and about the size
of a small suitcase) and which produces "clean" power (the "i" stands
for "inverter"), I highly recommend the Honda EU2000i. With a little
extension cord juggling it can power lots of stuff. However, since
you're in FL you'll probably want to power at least a small window A/C
and I'm not sure about that.

I just fired up mine a couple of days ago after some nasty storms (Iowa)
cut out power. In the winter, I test it under load about once per month
and it will RUN simultaneously: a furnace (nat. gas with 1/3 hp blower
motor and with a transfer switch installed for that circuit only),
refrig-freezer, chest freezer, and radio. I imagine that if any TWO of
the furnace, refrig-freezer or freezer STARTED UP at exactly the same
time that would likely overload it but that hasn't happened in any test
or real use. I've also powered a 1/3 hp sump pump substituted for the
chest freezer.

Kickin' Ass and Takin' Names

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May 27, 2008, 9:39:42 PM5/27/08

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Put a lot of thought into what you are about to do.

I am building a house in Virginia to replace mine that I lost to
Katrina in Mississippi.

We have installed a 12KW, propane-power backup generator from
Generac. It comes with a transfer switch and panel as part of the
generator. The generator is 4 ft X 8 ft X 3 ft tall and comes
complete with a fiberglass base that plants directly on the ground.
There's a BIG cable running from the generator to a pre-wired breaker
panel.

You'll need an electrician to wire it -- he/she will talk with you
about which circuits you want to have power when the electrical mains
fail, then, he'll wire those circuits into the generator's panel box
-- which mounts inside your house. The generator is then programmed
to exercise itself once a week -- ours is set for 2:00 PM Friday -- at
that time the generator kicks on, the tranfer switch kicks in, and the
house runs off generator power for 15 minutes after which the
generator shuts off and we go back on the mains.

If the generator is the only thing in your house that uses propane,
you can get by with a small tank. Or, if you have natural gas
available, you can set up the generator to run on that.

ON THE OTHER HAND -- you can buy a "portable" gasoline-power generator
and a big bunch of extension cords. Then, when the power fails, you
drag out the generator, crank it up -- hoping that you remembered to
keep a stock of gasoline -- and run extension cords all over the
place.

The automatic, propane or NG powered generator with transfer switch
and panel is the way to go -- mine cost $2,500 and the electrician
charged $700 to install it -- I trailered it in from the Lowe's where
I bought it and four of us cussed it off the trailer onto the ground.

http://www.generac.com/Products/Residential/AirCooled/14KW.aspx

It's quiet, too. Mine sits inside a back corner of the house and I
cannot hear it running while I'm standing in the front yard.

ransley

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May 27, 2008, 10:37:29 PM5/27/08

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If you dont know how to figure amps, I will bet you need to do alot of
research to purchase and safely run one, you dont just buy one and
plug things in, as alot goes wrong and you have to know how to monitor
it and know its right. You are aware of course that a 400 watt motor
can need initialy 1000+ watts off the gen.

BillGill

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May 28, 2008, 9:14:35 AM5/28/08

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Just as a rule of thumb I use 100 W equals 1 Amp for 120 Volt items.
Everybody will jump up and say that is wrong because it is. The current
for 100 W is actually less than 1 A. But if you use 1A per 100 W it gives
you a safety factor to help keep from overloading the generator.

Bill

Smitty Two

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May 28, 2008, 9:42:12 AM5/28/08

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In article
<5ea8a5c3-14b2-4789...@x35g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
Dottie <Dorot...@aol.com> wrote:

This formula will get you in the ballpark:

Amps = watts/volts

where volts is 120 in this case. No need to do this for each appliance,
just add up all the watts and then divide the total by 120 to get your
total current (amps) requirement.

Usually in a blackout, people live a bit more frugally. You don't have
to run all the appliances at once. Keep the fridge going and a couple of
lights. Maybe add in the coffee pot and the TV. Skip the hair dryer.
Forget about trying to maintain any sort of electric climate control.

Dottie

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May 29, 2008, 11:07:01 AM5/29/08

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On May 28, 9:42 am, Smitty Two <prestwh...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> In article
> <5ea8a5c3-14b2-4789-87dc-e595b715f...@x35g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,

Thank you for your help. Some of you obviously have first hand
experience with generators and I don't. We plan to use only the
basics - refrigerators (2), one TV, lights, etc. I have some
questions that sound dumb even to me - but here goes. They all give
startup watts and running watts. When the refrigerators go off and
come back on - they are briefly using the higher numbers....and there
is no way to predict when they will do this. Do I make allowances by
leaving some "leeway" ... by keeping the other appliances I am using,
to a minimum. If I go over by accident, does the generator just shut
off? Thanks.

ransley

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May 29, 2008, 11:27:55 AM5/29/08

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> off? Thanks.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Some new 100w friges need 900w startup, and figure in the defrost
circuit which can be 500w, you need the extra watts as reserve or you
gen wont last or you wont start the frige, or it can stall, you need
to test your friges to know run and defrost and startup needs, getting
a small unit and running it at peak load is hard on it. Also sure you
can buy a 400$ unit, but it may last only 300 hours, there are 3, 500,
and 10-15000 hr units that are not much more money. Look at honda,
voltage swing, hrs of life, noise,in your decision. If you will use it
a few days a year at least look at Tri Fuel, Ng-Propane-gasolene, for
a few hundred more you can power it on different fuels. A transfer
panel is best, Lowes gave me one free with a 5500 w Genrac

John Gilmer

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May 27, 2008, 10:58:28 PM5/27/08

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It really comes down to handful of questions:

1) Do you want to live essentially a "normal" life while the utility power
is out? If so, you get something that will run your airconditioner and
your water heater at the same time plus about 4 kW more. When you are on
generator power, use some common sense and don't take showers and use the
electric stove at the same time unless you turn off the central air
conditioning.

2) If you can live without central air for the duration, but don't want to
get carried away with energy management you might want 8 to 10 kW. This
will run your water heater and part of your stove at the same time. Again,
don't be foolish and try to run everything at the same time.

3) Otherwise, you should get a 5 kW unit. That's enough for a window A/C
and "some" use of the electric stove, water heater, microwave. That's the
arrangement we have. We also have a deep well water pump. When the power
goes out for a time (like a few days), I get by with running it a few hours
in the morning and another few others in the evening. We can take quick
showers, cook meals, watch TV in an window A/C cooled family room, and even
run the dishwasher. We can't do laundry and we actually turn off loads like
the water pump, the water heater, etc. except when we have cut other loads
to the bone.

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Message has been deleted

ransley

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May 29, 2008, 9:41:50 PM5/29/08

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On May 29, 6:40 pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:
> On Tue, 27 May 2008 22:58:28 -0400, "John Gilmer"

> The thing a lot of people ignore is "feeding the monster" as folks
> called it after Charlie here.
> These things, even small ones, use an extraordinary amount of fuel. A
> 120 gallon propane tank is not going to last very long, maybe a week
> if you take it easy but you can burn 120 gallons in 3 or 4 days if you
> are running your house like normal. If you are carrying cans from the
> gas station plan on going every day or two with a truck load.
> You will also start to appreciate how cheap electricity is from the
> utility when you fill up those tanks and cans,- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

They are monsters, and the auto cycling of those auto gens can cost
$10-20 month for their "self tests" Nothin is free. Buy gen and its
a new kid to feed, at least installing a transfer panel gives options.

hal...@aol.com

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May 29, 2008, 9:45:56 PM5/29/08

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On May 29, 7:40�pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:
> On Tue, 27 May 2008 22:58:28 -0400, "John Gilmer"
>
>
>
>
>
> <gil...@crosslink.net> wrote:

> >** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**
>
> The thing a lot of people ignore is "feeding the monster" as folks
> called it after Charlie here.
> These things, even small ones, use an extraordinary amount of fuel. A
> 120 gallon propane tank is not going to last very long, maybe a week
> if you take it easy but you can burn 120 gallons in 3 or 4 days if you
> are running your house like normal. If you are carrying cans from the
> gas station plan on going every day or two with a truck load.
> You will also start to appreciate how cheap electricity is from the
> utility when you fill up those tanks and cans,- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

if power is out, local stations may be unable to pump gas, they
require electric too.....

hal...@aol.com

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May 29, 2008, 9:47:31 PM5/29/08

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> a new kid to feed, at least installing a transfer panel gives options.- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

please cite that monthly cost,,,, want link.

i doubt is anywhere near that, they run basiclly unloaded for 5
minutes 4 times a month..

how do you get 10 to 20 bucks a month from that?

Tom Horne

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Jun 1, 2008, 2:04:19 AM6/1/08

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Generators are rated in watts not amps. If you need to know the ampere
draw of the appliance you can come fairly close by dividing the wattage
by the voltage of the appliance. A one hundred watt incandescent light
bulb uses 100/120 or 0.833 amps. Six such bulbs use five amperes. ...
--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison

Tom Horne

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Jun 1, 2008, 2:13:34 AM6/1/08

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If they are properly installed they will run until the coolant
temperature reaches a preset value. With most of the generators I've
installed that's about fifteen minutes. Then they transfer the load
back to public power, then ten more minutes for no load cool down prior
to automatic stop.

Dottie

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Jun 1, 2008, 2:20:12 PM6/1/08

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On Jun 1, 2:13 am, Tom Horne <horn...@veriqrmzon.net> wrote:

Well the new generator is in the garage. I finished reading the
instruction manual and all it said about extension cords was "don't
use old frayed cords". One of my neighbors said he plans to use 14
gauge. I went to Lowe's yesterday and looked ... the lawn and garden
equipment we have uses 16 gauge. The generator will be sitting
outside the garage and the cord that came with it will slip under the
garage door - so the extension cords will all be inside. It seems to
me that 16 gauge would be sufficient to run things like refrigerators,
TVs, microwave and lights. We do not have room air conditioners. I
hesitate to invest a lot into extension cords now because I am
seriously thinking about buying one of those kits next year and
connecting it to that. What do those of you who connect by extension
cords use with yours? Thanks. (I bought two two-gallon jugs of
gasoline today and put about one half tank in my car and I'm still
reeling from the sticker shock. )

Erma1ina

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Jun 1, 2008, 7:58:51 PM6/1/08

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Dottie wrote:
>
> On Jun 1, 2:13 am, Tom Horne <horn...@veriqrmzon.net> wrote:
> > hall...@aol.com wrote:

> > > On May 29, 9:41ï¿½pm, ransley <Mark_Rans...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> > >> On May 29, 6:40ï¿½pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > >>> On Tue, 27 May 2008 22:58:28 -0400, "John Gilmer"
> > >>> <gil...@crosslink.net> wrote:
> > >>>> It really comes down to handful of questions:

> > >>>> 1) ï¿½ Do you want to live essentially a "normal" life while the utility power
> > >>>> is out? ï¿½ If so, you get something that will run your airconditioner and
> > >>>> your water heater at the same time plus about 4 kW more. ï¿½ When you are on

> > >>>> generator power, use some common sense and don't take showers and use the
> > >>>> electric stove at the same time unless you turn off the central air
> > >>>> conditioning.

> > >>>> 2) ï¿½ If you can live without central air for the duration, but don't want to
> > >>>> get carried away with energy management you might want 8 to 10 kW. ï¿½ This
> > >>>> will run your water heater and part of your stove at the same time. ï¿½ Again,

> > >>>> don't be foolish and try to run everything at the same time.

> > >>>> 3) ï¿½ Otherwise, you should get a 5 kW unit. ï¿½ That's enough for a window A/C
> > >>>> and "some" use of the electric stove, water heater, microwave. ï¿½ That's the
> > >>>> arrangement we have. ï¿½ We also have a deep well water pump. ï¿½ When the power
> > >>>> goes out for a time (like a few days), ï¿½I get by with running it a few hours
> > >>>> in the morning and another few others in the evening. ï¿½ We can take quick

> > >>>> showers, cook meals, watch TV in an window A/C cooled family room, and even

> > >>>> run the dishwasher. ï¿½We can't do laundry and we actually turn off loads like

> > >>>> the water pump, the water heater, etc. except when we have cut other loads
> > >>>> to the bone.
> > >>>> ** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**
> > >>> The thing a lot of people ignore is "feeding the monster" as folks
> > >>> called it after Charlie here.
> > >>> These things, even small ones, use an extraordinary amount of fuel. A
> > >>> 120 gallon propane tank is not going to last very long, maybe a week
> > >>> if you take it easy but you can burn 120 gallons in 3 or 4 days if you
> > >>> are running your house like normal. If you are carrying cans from the
> > >>> gas station plan on going every day or two with a truck load.
> > >>> You will also start to appreciate how cheap electricity is from the
> > >>> utility when you fill up those tanks and cans,- Hide quoted text -
> > >>> - Show quoted text -
> > >> They are monsters, and the auto cycling of those auto gens can cost

> > >> $10-20 ï¿½month for their "self tests" ï¿½Nothin is free. Buy gen and its

Dottie -

Get yourselves some good extension cords! And buy only the length you
absolutely need since the added resistance of a long cord (or multiple
connected cords) reduces the electrical power (Watts) or current (Amps)
it can safely carry. (Remember: Voltage x Amps = Watts)

Remember, the higher the gauge number the less electrical power or
current it can safely carry. In other words, 16 gauge is made for fewer
watts (or amps) than 14 gauge which is made for fewer watts (or amps)
than 12 gauge, etc.

Here's a handy table of cord gauge recommended for given Amps
(Watts/Voltage) and length:

http://nevadawalrus.com/index-wired.html

Personally, with my small generator (Honda EU2000i which has two 120
volt outlets with surge watts: 2000 watts; running watts: 1800 watts;
therefore, approximately 15 amps), I use 12 gauge extension cords and
keep max total length <= 100 ft.

Erma1ina

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Jun 1, 2008, 8:15:16 PM6/1/08

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Ooops! Just noticed I made a mistake -- my EU2000i has running/rated
watts: 1600 (NOT 1800).

Erma1ina

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Jun 2, 2008, 12:05:16 AM6/2/08