Amana Air Command 80 Gas Fired Furnace (4 blinks) troubleshooting
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
1. Today it stopped heating the house; three red blinks were visible.
The instructions say this means the "pressure switch is stuck open".
2. I could see the "top" (smaller" motor wasn't spinning) but the bottom
(bigger) motor was spinning; so, I guessed, there was no vaccum to the
pressure switch - hence - the pressure switch was stuck in the open (off)
position.
3. To test, I removed the hose from the top (smaller) motor & sucked on it.
4. This self-induced vacuum caused the diaphram to move which caused the
mechanical switch connected to the pressure valve to close (I could see the
switch move when I sucked on it).
5. The flame ignighter heated up and the gas started burning.
The three blinking red LED signal went out; I thought I "fixed" my furnace.
I cycled the power a few times while I cleaned the filters and blew dust
from around the wires.
But ...
6. Then the Amana Air Command 80 gas-fired furnace stopped heating again;
this time, four red blinks were visible!
7. Now the opposite ocurred; the "top" (smaller) motor was now spinning but
the bottom (big) motor was not spinning. No air was circulating through the
house.
8. Four blinks indicate an "open Limit Control (primary or auxilliary)".
8. If I cycle the power to the furnace, it works for about ten minutes and
then the bottom (big) motor stops spinning and the four blinks start again.
I have a few questions:
a) How can I troubleshoot this Amana Air Command 80 gas-fired furnace?
b) Is there a reset switch somewhere?
c) Is there a maintenance guide on the web somewhere?
Thanks,
Donna
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> The instructions say this means the "pressure switch is stuck open".
Literally, the instructions say:
<quote>
Pressure Switch Stuck Open
If, after the vent blower is energized, the pressure switch does not close,
the congtrol will keep the blower on and wait for the switch to close. The
diagnostic light code for this problem is three short flashes followed by a
pause. The probable cause is either:
a) disconnected hose to the pressure switch,
b) faulty pressure switch or wiring, or
c) restricted air intake or flue piping.
<end quote>
By pulling the vacuum hose off at the top (smaller) motor side, and sucking
on it, I was able to see the pressure switch diaphragm moved and the
electrical contact closed, causing the heating element to heat up and the
gas to start. So, I could tell the hose was OK (a) and the pressure switch
(b) seemed ok.
That leaves (c).
Can you advise me what it means to have "a restricted air intake or flue
piping"?
Where do I look and what do I do to unrestrict an air intake or flue
piping?
Thanks,
Donna
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
Despite the fact that three blinks and a non-spinning top (smaller) motor
were the initial problem, I now have consistently four blinks and a
non-spinning bottom (larger) motor in my Amana Air Command 80 gas-fired
furnace.
Reading the instructions it says:
<quote>
Open Limit Control (Primary or Auxiliary)
If either limit control opens, the air circulation and vent blower will be
turned on until the limit closes. The diagnostic light code for this is
four short flashes followed by a pause. The probable cause is either:
a) Low conditioned air flow due to dirty filter or resistance in duct work,
b) Faulty limit, faulty blower, or blower speed set too low.
<end quote>
What does that mean?
What is a "limit control"?
Which motor is the "air circulation" (bottom big motor?) blower?
Which motor is the "vent blower" (top small motor?)?
I know the filter is clean because, while it was really dirty, I replaced
it and I still have the problem. I have no idea how to test resistance in
the duct work, but, I didn't change anything to change that, either before
or after the problem ocurred.
I would have no idea how to set the blower speed.
What's a faulty "limit" and how would I test to ascertain the cause?
Donna
bfr...@hotmail.com
You will need to call someone out to fix your furnace, but here are
some answers to your questions.
The "limit" is a thermostatic switch inside of the furnace that is
there to shut down the burners if it gets too hot. It sounds like
it's doing it's job. The problem you now have sounds like a bad
blower motor (The large motor that circulates air through you house).
Try seting the fan switch on your thermostat to "on" if you can. That
usually will operate the fan on high speed and it may get you by for a
while if it works. If you have air conditioning and you have been
neglecting you air filters, you also may have a plugged up evaporator
coil. The furnace guy will likely need to take apart or cut a hole in
the ductwork surrounding the evaporator coil to inspect and clean it
if needed.
The problems you were having earlier with the pressure switch could be
caused by something getting stuck in the flue. Sometimes, small birds
or other animals like to hang out on the flue pipe on the roof since
it is warm. They then pass out from the carbon monoxide and fall into
the pipe causing a "restriction". Someone will need to disconnect the
flue pipe from the top of the furnace and look inside of it and remove
the dead creature if there is one.
Like I said earlier, time to get the checkbook or creadit card ready
and call a reputible heating company to come out to fix your furnace.
Good luck.
Shawn Hirn
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
>
> Where do I look and what do I do to unrestrict an air intake or flue
> piping?
If I were you, I would call a professional repair person to deal with
this problem. You are asking about a piece of equipment that could cause
serious damage to your home and death and injury to you and your family
if you mess with it and screw something up. Call a professional heating
and repair person to fix the problem.
Stormin Mormon
carbon monoxide out the chimney. Call a repair company.
--
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"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:WRVlj.1438$Ej5...@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
Can you help me troubleshoot my Amana Air Command 80 gas-fired furnace?
Stormin Mormon
You really desperately need a furnace repair tech.
--
Christopher A. Young
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"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
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Despite the fact that three blinks and a non-spinning top (smaller) motor
were the initial problem, I now have consistently four blinks and a
non-spinning bottom (larger) motor in my Amana Air Command 80 gas-fired
furnace.
Donna
ransley
If you have AC look at the coil , clean it if its dirty, is blower
cage dirty, is filter a restrictive type , try to get more air moving,
Just a guess.
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> If you have AC look at the coil , clean it if its dirty, is blower
> cage dirty, is filter a restrictive type , try to get more air moving,
I do have air conditioning as part of this furnace setup.
I never did any maintenance on it (it's about seven or so years old).
I'd be glad to clean this AC coil; where would I find it?
Also, do you know of a good source on the web for furnace & ac maintenance
WITH PICTURES?
Vic Smith
If you're going to try to fix this, read the troubleshooting manual.
Though newer furnaces are a PITA compared to the older ones,
it's fairly easy to locate the problem.
You said before you sucked a hose and the switch for positive venting
worked.
You didn't say if the venting motor was even starting up.
You might get help from the HVAC guys, but you have to be clear on the
steps you're taking, and exactly what's happening at start-up.
Just make sure you don't try to bypass any of the start-up features.
Very dangerous.
--Vic
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> You said before you sucked a hose and the switch for positive venting
> worked.
Yes. What is happening now is different than what at first happened.
FIRST (three blinking lights)
- The smaller motor (which, thanks to this newsgroup, I belatedly realize
is the combustion air venting motor) wasn't spinning - while the larger
motor (which by the process of elimination is the air circulation blower)
was constantly spinning. Perhaps the "limit" (which I take to be a sensor
that shuts things off when it senses something amiss) kicked in for the air
vent.
NOW (four blinking lights)
- I can get the furnace to work for an hour, two or three, but, eventually
the four blinking lights go on indicating one of the two "limits" have been
breached. The two motors (the smaller combustion venting motor and the
larger air circulation blower) remain running but the gas shuts off so the
flame goes out.
A service technician I called said it's 100 bucks to go out to see it so I
have him scheduled for Saturday (the earliest he could get here). Until
then, I want to learn what MAINTENANCE I could/should do.
Where can I get a PICTURE of the maintenance I should do until then?
Please advise!
Thanks,
Donna
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> Call a professional heating
> and repair person to fix the problem.
I did. He'll be out here on Saturday. Isn't there ANY maintenance a
homeowner can do themselves?
I'm sure, from the symptoms, that the "limits" kicked in, probably due to
some problem with air circulation.
Besides the filter (which was very dirty but I replaced it yesterday), what
other maintenance can I do.
For example, someone said clean the A/C coils ... but WHERE ARE THEY?
The furnace is in a tiny closet. The AC fan is outside the house.
Donna
Vic Smith
Leave it alone. Let the pro fix it.
You can ask him about what you can do with the maintenances.
Just keep your pipes from freezing until he gets there.
--Vic
bfr...@hotmail.com
wrote:
The only maintenance you should do yourself is change the filter
often. They say about once a month, but you could probably get by
with changing it once every 2 or 3 months if you run it with the fan
swith in "auto". Good filters are very important on systems with air
conditioning to prevent the a/c coil (evaporator) from getting plugged
up with dirt and lint. The cheap fiberglass filters are almost
worthless, use the pleated type. As long as you follow the above
suggestion, your evaporator coil will stay clean and you furnace will
last much longer.
If your evaporator coil is dirty, your heating repair person will need
to clean it. It really isn't something that most homeowners can do on
their own. It usually requires cutting a hole in the sheetmetal to
get access to it, and then vacumming it, blowing it out with
compressed air, and/or washing it with chemicals and water. if it is
really plugged up bad it may need to be completely removed from the
furnace and taken outside to wash with the garden hose. This would
require evacuating the refrigerant circuit and cutting the refrigerant
lines.
Like I mentioned in a post above, leave the fan swithch on the
thermostat to "on" untill the service guy can come out. This might
help get more airflow through your furnace and keep it running a
little longer before tripping on the limit switch.
Good luck.
Stormin Mormon
a job for the service tech.
Buy a portable heater?
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
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"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:VH3mj.340$xq2...@newssvr21.news.prodigy.net...
Stormin Mormon
--
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Learn more about Jesus
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"Vic Smith" <thismaila...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:aochp3hhpg661h0av...@4ax.com...
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> She said the small fan wasn't running.
Only in the beginning. Now both fans run continuously but the flame goes
out, likely because of a limit being reached.
Tomorrow the repairman arrives.
I'm amazed, on the entire net, I can't find a single photographic
description of how to maintain an Amana Air Command 80 gas-fired home
closet furnace.
This is shocking for home repairees.
Donna
Vic Smith
Hey, my Rheem Criterion II is short-cycling, and the troubleshooting
manual is packed away in a box somewhere.
I think it's a limit switch, maybe the flame sensor tossing an error
when it heats up too much, the thermostat, or just rapid heat loss
from the house because it's been near 0F here.
Not a big deal, but the short cycling irritates me.
I've fixed this thing before (ignitor) and the manual was useful.
Couldn't find anything on the net, unless I had a HVAC license or
whatever. I think the repair industry has the manuals locked down.
Kind of makes sense from the safety aspect that they typical homeowner
could get him and his family killed messing with the furnace.
Of course we're not typical, are we?
Anyway, you can find a dealer to get your manuals, but the net is a
poor resource for them.
--Vic
Stormin Mormon
on them?
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
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"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:7Pomj.1616$Ej5...@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> Maybe the folks who build them would prefer that only
> the trained techs work on them?
Well, the guy called yesterday and said a client cancelled and ended up
coming over 1 day early.
He fiddled with a paper clip in the combustion motor orifice but that
didn't solve anything. He looked about, here and there, and decided
something was wrong but he knew not what. He cleaned the flame sensor but
that didn't change anything.
He said basically what everyone here said. There is something wrong with
the flow of air because the furnace is shutting itself off. He said we'd
have to pay 400 for his son to come back and clean out the "condenser
coils". I was aghast that he was guessing what the problem was and that his
son was doing the work but he said he was qualified. So, I paid the $100
visit fee and 25% of the cleaning fee as what could I do (you all said we
have to bring over the tech folks).
My new question ... Is this a normal thing where the problem isn't obvious
so you start cleaning? It seems so based on the prior responses here but
I'd like to doublecheck, especially since four days takehome pay (for me)
are riding on this.
Thanks for your advice,
Donna
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> One way to find a good company is:
> Look in the phone book for who distributes your brand furnace.
I did, I did! I called Amana many times - they are the ones who referred me
to the repairman who showed up at my house. What else would you recommend
other than an Amana-recommended repairman. I don't get it.
Here's what I did ..
First I called the Amana number in the maintenance manual (pretty crappy
manual, I might add) at 800-843-0304. They were closed so a day later I
called again but they referred me to 888-842-2440, which turned out not to
handle furnaces (the Amana personnel didn't know the difference between a
furnace and an air conditioner).
Finally, they referred me to 877-337-3636 which did handle Amana forced-air
furnaces.
That third number provided me, based on my zip code, three possible
repairpeople. I called the first one they gave me and he's the one who came
by.
Are you saying we should not go to the ones Amana recommends?
dker...@gmail.com
>
> - Show quoted text -
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Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> Then call that company and ask what they charge to come out or if they
> charge flat rate or hourly.
I called another company, as you advised, and they came out this morning.
They said they'd charge $80 to come out and that would be put toward parts.
They too were not sure what the problem was, but here is verbatim what they
wrote on the sales slip afterward.
Can you help decode this for me? The furnace is working but I think only
because he changed a setting on one of the motors.
Here's what he wrote ...
Found PSC Motor Running slow and High Limit kicking out
& re-setting either bad motor or dirty coil.
More than likely coil.
Motor is not hot to touch.
$80
Rod Speed
> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 09:21:18 -0500, Bubba wrote:
>> Then call that company and ask what they charge to come out or if
>> they charge flat rate or hourly.
>
> I called another company, as you advised, and they came out this
> morning. They said they'd charge $80 to come out and that would be
> put toward parts. They too were not sure what the problem was, but
> here is verbatim what they wrote on the sales slip afterward.
>
> Can you help decode this for me? The furnace is working but I think
> only because he changed a setting on one of the motors.
>
> Here's what he wrote ...
> Found PSC Motor Running slow and High Limit kicking out & re-setting
The PSC motor is running slower than it should be and the limit is tripping.
> either bad motor or dirty coil.
Thats what he thinks is the most likely cause of the above.
> More than likely coil.
That should be obvious.
> Motor is not hot to touch.
So its unlikely to be a bad motor.
> $80
.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
wrote:
>On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 12:34:22 -0700, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
>Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>Again, I hate to say but you got someone that doesnt want to spend the
>time to give you a proper diagnosis.
>A motor is easily diagnosed.
>Bubba
So why don't you tell us what ohms they should be looking at through
each winding (RSC).
--
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Gary Heston
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
[ ... ]
>I called another company, as you advised, and they came out this morning.
>Here's what he wrote ...
>Found PSC Motor Running slow and High Limit kicking out
>& re-setting
Describing the problem--the High Limit is being triggered; I believe
that's the high pressure sensor you mentioned earlier. That means the
fan is trying to blow air, but it's backing up. Another possibility
is the motor overheating and triggering it's thermal protection switch,
which will reset when the motor cools orr.
> either bad motor or dirty coil.
>More than likely coil.
>Motor is not hot to touch.
The motor isn't over heating, so it and the High Limit are working correctly,
and the problem is that something is obstructing air flow downstream from
the blower--like a coil full of lint and debris, which got that way due to
the filter not being changed monthly like it's supposed to be.
>$80
What it cost to get the same basic answer your got from the first tech; the
coil needs to be cleaned. Have whichever outfit will charge less do it.
Gary
--
Gary Heston ghe...@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/
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and global warming, then get awarded a "peace prize".
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> PSC is Permanent Split Capacitor motor.
May I ask if the permanent split capacitor motor is the top smaller easily
replaced combusion air blower motor ... or if it's the bottom, larger
seemingly harder-to-replace house blower motor?
Donna
edbedb
Yes, you may ask.
Stormin Mormon
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"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
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Stormin Mormon
over heating. I've seen a bad high limit switch. In that case, the furance
kept shutting down, but the furnace and the ducts never really did get hot.
So, I'd want someone (maybe the tech, maybe yourself) to see if the duct
gets very hot, where the duct comes out of the furnace. If dirty evaporator
is the problem, then the top of the furnace will likely be too hot to touch.
Most of the high limit switches I've worked on, run about 180 to 200 when
they trip off. And that's too hot to put your hand on.
Please go to the furnace and (very carefully) try to touch the grey metal on
top of the furnace, where the heat goes to the house. Is it burny hot, luke
warm, or room temp? That will tell us a lot. Also feel the top inch or so of
the furnace, where it meets with the ducts. Is that burny hot, luke warm, or
room temp?
--
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"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
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Stormin Mormon
>& re-setting
Describing the problem--the High Limit is being triggered; I believe
that's the high pressure sensor you mentioned earlier. That means the
fan is trying to blow air, but it's backing up. Another possibility
is the motor overheating and triggering it's thermal protection switch,
which will reset when the motor cools orr.
CY: More likely a temperature sensor near the top of the furnace.
> either bad motor or dirty coil.
>More than likely coil.
>Motor is not hot to touch.
The motor isn't over heating, so it and the High Limit are working
correctly,
and the problem is that something is obstructing air flow downstream from
the blower--like a coil full of lint and debris, which got that way due to
the filter not being changed monthly like it's supposed to be.
>$80
What it cost to get the same basic answer your got from the first tech; the
coil needs to be cleaned. Have whichever outfit will charge less do it.
CY: Cheaper isn't necessarly gooder, the cheap company may use sloppy labor.
Stormin Mormon
American language translation.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
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"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:0V5nj.2759$hI1...@nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com...
Can you help decode this for me? The furnace is working but I think only
because he changed a setting on one of the motors.
Here's what he wrote ...
Found PSC Motor Running slow
CY: The blower motor is running a bit slow. Could be bad motor, or mabye
needs a squirt of oil used for electric motors.
and High Limit kicking out
& re-setting
CY: The top of the furnace is overheating, the safety switch is shutting off
the gas to the furnace. This is a safety feature, to keep the furnace from
catching fire.
either bad motor or dirty coil.
CY: The coil he means is the part of the AC system that gets cold. The
evaporator is typically mounted over the top of the furnace.
More than likely coil.
Motor is not hot to touch.
CY: If the fan blower motor was bad, sometimes they will get very hot while
they are running.
$80
CY: About right for a house call and diagnostic.
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
>> May I ask if the permanent split capacitor motor is the top smaller easily
>> replaced combusion air blower motor ... or if it's the bottom, larger
>> seemingly harder-to-replace house blower motor?
Does anyone know which one it is?
Jeff
Who knows?
It's a type of motor.
<URL: http://www.iprocessmart.com/leeson/leeson_singlephase_article.htm>
My guess is that it is the smaller motor that has the smaller
starting torque needs.
Doesn't seem like anyone here is doing anything but enjoying your misery.
Jeff
Jeff
> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 09:21:18 -0500, Bubba wrote:
>> Then call that company and ask what they charge to come out or if they
>> charge flat rate or hourly.
>
> I called another company, as you advised, and they came out this morning.
> They said they'd charge $80 to come out and that would be put toward parts.
> They too were not sure what the problem was, but here is verbatim what they
> wrote on the sales slip afterward.
>
> Can you help decode this for me? The furnace is working but I think only
> because he changed a setting on one of the motors.
I'm not a HVAC repairman, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
The ventilation motor, the one that blows the hot air, tend to be
multiple speed devices. There's usually jumpers somewhere to set that.
It sounds like he reset a jumper to a higher speed.
>
> Here's what he wrote ...
>
> Found PSC Motor Running slow and High Limit kicking out
> & re-setting either bad motor or dirty coil.
> More than likely coil.
> Motor is not hot to touch.
The fact the motor is not hot leads to the motor not being bad. If it
runs and doesn't overheat it's probably OK.
You got a problem using google?
Here is the result for high limit kicking out:
<URL:
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Heating-Air-Conditioning-696/furnace-heat-kicking-1.htm
/>
Shut it down and clean it out. You've gone this far. Don't let those
wimps stop you. Just make sure you put it back together right!
Jeff
> $80
Stormin Mormon
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"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
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Jeff
> Yep; I know.
>
Exactly what we all love about christians.
Jeff
Stormin Mormon
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"Jeff" <jeff@spam_me_not.com> wrote in message
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.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 16:16:44 -0800, .p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
Jeff
> Convert; then you'll know, also.
>
Jeff
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> They are speaking of the blower motor (larger one) that supplys air to
> the registers in your home. The smaller combustion air blower may also
> be a PSC motor.
I read about the PSC permanent split capacitor that was kindly referenced
prior.
I see a large pack-of-chewing-gum sized thing, covered in dust, on that
larger motor, which, when cleaned, had electrical terminals. I'm supposing
this is the PSC motor's capacitor. So, I will assume as you suggested it's
the larger motor.
Tomorrow is the cleaning scheduled, so, we'll see if that does anything. He
said he might have to cut holes in the ductwork so we'll see if that
changes things a bit.
I don't know what else to do at this point.
Donna
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> It sounds like he reset a jumper to a higher speed.
around. I should have taken a before/after photo. I did this time so when
he comes tomorrow I'll have something to show beforehand and after it gets
cleaned.
I never knew this cleaning stuff was so important.
BTW, how much do cleanings cost for most of you?
$400?
And, how often do you do them?
He will be here from 10am to 1Pm he said, so, it can't take longer than 3
hours.
Is this reasonable by normal standards?
Donna
Stormin Mormon
lot of work. Depending how the unit is piped in, and how the sheet metal is
worked. Might need to take the freon out of the AC, and take the coil out
from over the furnace. That could be several hours work.
--
Christopher A. Young
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"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:sMAnj.1753$uE....@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> When finished, the temp rise through the furnace will need to be
> rechecked as more airflow through system will lower your temp rise
> causing cooler air coming out the registers.
Hi Bubba,
Thanks for all the advice. It's done. It works.
He charged $400 and cleaned the coils and it works.
I asked about the fan speed and he said he left it at the higher speed and
that it wouldn't hurt the system.
I understood all that you wrote except "the temp rise through the furnace"
part. What is the "temp rise"?
Thanks,
Donna
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:
I learned a lot but I still would like to know if I can ask some questions.
I posted a picture of the "evaporator coil" before cleaning here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23329283@N07/
QUESTION 1: (see picture 1)
Why is there an "evaporator coil" in a heating system? Is it only because
it shares the same ductwork with the A/C? It seems to be a weak link with
respect to the dust that gets past the filters.
QUESTION 2: (see picture 2)
I don't see how I can get to the bacterial pad he put near the coil. Are
they supposed to last forever? I don't see how they can but I don't see how
I can replace it myself. Did I miss something?
QUESTION 3: (see picture 3)
Does that evaporator coil cleaner actually work more than a short while?
Bacteria can gro back real soon, so I was wondering if that disinfectant
actually works over the long term.If not, where do I spray it now that I
have a full can of it?
Thanks for your help,
Donna
.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
wrote:
>On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 16:16:44 -0800, .p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
>wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 18:45:15 -0500, Bubba <LiKeAlA...@iname.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 12:34:22 -0700, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
>>>Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>>Again, I hate to say but you got someone that doesnt want to spend the
>>>time to give you a proper diagnosis.
>>>A motor is easily diagnosed.
>>>Bubba
>>
>>So why don't you tell us what ohms they should be looking at through
>>each winding (RSC).
>
>Why dont you go away, Fake.
>Bubba
I knew you couldn't answer the question with real info. Excuses,
excuses!!
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
> Well, its a shame he didnt check the temp rise. He obviously was too
> lazy or in a hurry or something.
I'll see if I can check the temp rise. He was only here about an hour,
certainly no more ... so I guess he *was* in a hurry! :)
Anyway, the photos I referenced show what it was.
I've got to get back to work but I'll post some photos of the entire unit
'cuz I have some questions about what he did (I didn't watch the whole
thing so I wasn't sure but I'm very curious now).
I'll open a separate thread on that.
I thank you, Bubba especially, for taking the time to help out a fellow
human being!
Donna
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:rs2oj.4801$5K1...@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net...
Stormin Mormon
2) See Paris
3) Grand children
Life is nearly complete. One out of three.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donn...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:Mgfoj.9883$hI1....@nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com...
Brent
My furnace has been working great, but today it won’t work at all. I️ am
getting nothing
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/amana-air-command-80-gas-fired-furnace-4-blinks-troublesho-703967-.htm
rooster
I believe the complexity of the mechanism may be beyond the skill of a novice
and tampering could result in a catastrophic failure such as a house fire and
that may be why there are no DIY instructions
trader_4
> replying to Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coo, rooster wrote:
> I believe the complexity of the mechanism may be beyond the skill of a novice
> and tampering could result in a catastrophic failure such as a house fire and
> that may be why there are no DIY instructions
>
Home Moaners?