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Removing 1.5 Acres of Bamboo in Towson, MD

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Elliott P

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Feb 6, 2012, 11:54:09 AM2/6/12
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Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
*one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
restore the property, inside and out.

Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.

The property is in Towson, Maryland.

Thank you in advance.

bob haller

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Feb 6, 2012, 12:18:48 PM2/6/12
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if its big enough sell for wood.

basically a logger would clear the area for free, no cost to you and
they would sell the lumber to whoever would buy it

mj

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Feb 6, 2012, 12:06:49 PM2/6/12
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On Feb 6, 11:54 am, Elliott P <elliott.pl...@gmail.com> wrote:
Can you burn it?
MJ

Elliott P

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Feb 6, 2012, 1:58:15 PM2/6/12
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MJ, burning it is probably not an option in this suburban location as
it is too close to nearby homes and other woods.

Evan

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Feb 6, 2012, 4:00:34 PM2/6/12
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On Feb 6, 11:54 am, Elliott P <elliott.pl...@gmail.com> wrote:
Are you allowed to clear cut the wooded/brush/bamboo area ?

Is it considered a "wet land" ?

You should check with your nearest conservation/environmental
authorities to make sure you are allowed to cut all of that
natural vegetation down without some kind of site plan/impact
study done and having a permit hearing...

~~ Evan

Limp Arbor

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Feb 6, 2012, 3:49:04 PM2/6/12
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On Feb 6, 11:54 am, Elliott P <elliott.pl...@gmail.com> wrote:
They make great tomato stakes after they are cut down & dried.

The initial cutting is the least of your problem. You'll then need to
'cut the grass' twice a week until it stops trying to grow back...

Sonny

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Feb 6, 2012, 8:24:38 PM2/6/12
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Bamboo is a grass. You can chop it down, but it will sprout back
out. You either have to dig up the roots, also, or kill the plant
with a herbicide. Check with the nearest forest service, as they have
a potent enough tree killer that will do the job and only they are
allowed to use that herbicide. I doubt you can do that big of job,
yourself.

There is a highly potent tree killer, pretty expensive, for
consumers. I don't know the name, right off, but I can find out by
tomorrow, probably. You spray it about 18" above the ground and it
kills the plant. You might have trouble spraying the bamboo in the
interior of that big of patch, if it's so dense you can't navigate
within.

Once a herbcide is used and the plants die, you will still have the
task of removing the dead bamboo.

The roots are as deep as 1'. You'll have lots of digging to remove
all those roots, if you try to remove everything manually, while it's
still alive. If a herbicide is used to kill the above ground plant,
the roots can remain. They'll eventually decay. Tilling the dead
roots will speed their decaying.

Sonny

Bob F

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Feb 7, 2012, 12:30:52 AM2/7/12
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Put up a sign - bamboo for sale. Then everyone will steal it?


DD_BobK

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Feb 7, 2012, 1:38:13 AM2/7/12
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check this out

http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/growgreen/downloads/bamboo_running.pdf

http://www.ag.auburn.edu/hort/landscape/bamboo.html

Depending on the species,
your bamboo forest could yield 50,000 to 100,000 pounds of dry timber
per acre.


From second link.......

ERADICATING BAMBOO.
Bamboo can be eradicated by several methods:

1. Graze it with cattle during the summer. If the plants are so large
that cattle cannot bend them over to graze the leaves, they should be
cut and the cattle allowed to graze the new plants as they emerge.

2. Cut the old plants in winter or early spring and the new shoots as
they emerge in the spring and summer. This will require cutting
several times.

3. Spray the area with a herbicide. Of the several tested at Auburn,
Sodium TCA (sodium salt of trichloroaecetic acid) gave best success.
This should be sprayed on the soil over the areas in which the bamboo
is growing at a rate of 50 pounds active ingredient in at least 100
gallons of water per acre. It is preferable to apply it in late winter
or early spring before new growth starts. Rain will carry the chemical
down to the root system and it will be absorbed. This will sterilize
the soil for about 90 days, so nothing should be planted on the area
until about June.


http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/IPM.asp?code=223&group=71&level=s


You can also kill bamboo by flooding the area and keeping it flooded
for a couple weeks.
I killed a very small area of bamboo (~2' x 2') by flooding.


Sounds like you have a fair amount of work ahead. :(

cheers
Bob



Ron

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Feb 7, 2012, 1:51:51 AM2/7/12
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(rolling eyes)

The Daring Dufas

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Feb 7, 2012, 3:29:02 AM2/7/12
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I imagine you could interest a back scratcher manufacturer? ^_^

TDD

Cheryl Isaak

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Feb 7, 2012, 6:03:12 AM2/7/12
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sadly, he's right!

Sonny

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Feb 7, 2012, 9:19:10 AM2/7/12
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I received the info I earlier mentioned.

In the link DD_BobK gave, the Auburn link, there is mention of
yaupon. The herbicide of choice for yaupon is what my cousin used:
Garlon 4, made by Dow. Comes in 2.5 gallon containers (concentrate),
about $250 per container. Mix an 8% Garlon to diesel mix and spray
onto the bottom 20" of the bamboo. It is readily available to
consumers, so you don't need any special permits to purchase and use
it, as with the forest service's potent tree-killing herbicide. My
cousin, in Houston, purchased his Garlon 4 from Red River Chemicals.
You may have to Google for a source near you.

Once killed, you will still need to remove the dead bamboo stalks.
The roots can be left alone.... or tilled, for faster decomposition.

The coming new spring-time growth may be an excellent time for
spraying the bamboo. The new shoots will be prime for absorbing any
herbicide treatment. But note, you don't spray the leaves with the
Garlon. You spray the base/stalk of the plants, the bottom 20". New
sprouts may "qualify" as stalks.

Using concentrate RoundUp may work, also, i.e., spraying the leaves.
RoundUp may cost nearly as much as Garlon 4. You may have to test the
% mix to get the best results. For different species, different mixes
work best on the different plants.... usually a range from 5% to 10%,
which isn't too much of a range. When you have lots to spray, the
savings may make a difference, so you want to maximize your product.

Hope this helps.
Sonny

N8N

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Feb 7, 2012, 9:21:11 AM2/7/12
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On Feb 6, 4:00 pm, Evan <evan.news.re...@earthlink.net> wrote:
Not saying that the OP doesn't need to do that (I've heard of dumber
things) but bamboo has never been native to Maryland to my
knowledge... you'd think the enviro types would be happy to see it
go.

nate

Brooklyn1

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Feb 7, 2012, 10:25:43 AM2/7/12
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Burning won't do much except make the bamboo grow back faster and
stronger. With six acres to tend you really need a decent sized
tractor anyway, something at least 40 HP. I already have the tractor
and a 5' tiller, also a 7' brush hog that depending on the bamboo
might knock it down. With the right equipment 1 1/2 acres is a
relatively small area for clearing. Were it me I might rent a flail
shredder. Then till, and rent a rake... with the tractor till deep
and then rake out the roots. You can hire an excavating company or
DIY. You don't indicate the type of bamboo; how thick/tall... photos
would help... it may need a crew with chain saws or a flail shredder
could do the job: http://www.woodsonline.com/flailShredders.aspx
This time of year a nearby farmer might do the job at a reasonable
price, I'd guestimate $2,000. But with bamboo there's no guarantee it
won't grow back... then I'd think you'd have to resort to a defolient,
probably several applications.

Sonny

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Feb 7, 2012, 10:53:53 AM2/7/12
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I received an addendum to the herbicide treatment. Garlon 4 (and
RoundUp) can be mixed with water, also. Adding a little detergent to
the mix would allow for the herbicide to better adhere to the slick
bamboo stalk.

I wouldn't recommend using a bushhog or shredder to cut the bamboo.
Any knot or joint, left behind, would likely sprout. Running bamboo/
yaupon is a prolifically invasive grass specie.

You will have one heck of a job removing all the above ground bamboo
debris, no matter what you do to cut it. Do a little at a time.
It'll eventually get done, unless you can afford to do or have the
whole job done, at one time.

Sonny

denni...@gmail.com

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Feb 7, 2012, 10:58:30 AM2/7/12
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On Feb 7, 1:51 am, Ron <BigELil...@msn.com> wrote:
> (rolling eyes)

Roll your eyes all you want but if the DEC catches on to what you're
doing, and it's not "legal," they can pretty much ruin you for life.

Harry K

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Feb 7, 2012, 11:00:32 AM2/7/12
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> nate- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I had the same reaction as Ron when I read that post.

I don't think it is native anywhere on the continent. but then I hae
been wrong once or twice in my life.

Harry K

Gunner

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Feb 7, 2012, 10:47:56 AM2/7/12
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Bamboo is a grass so Roundup is not a very effective option.

The first thing to be done is ID the type bamboo,it may not be a
runner and the cure much easier.
Talk to your county Extention agent, they will be able to direct you
in the right direction and may have low cost options for you the land
owner.

Kay Lancaster

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Feb 7, 2012, 11:42:03 AM2/7/12
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On Mon, 6 Feb 2012 08:54:09 -0800 (PST), Elliott P <elliot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
> stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
> *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
> stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
> dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
> allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
> restore the property, inside and out.

Prepare for a multi-season struggle:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/chatham/ag/homehort/BambooControl.htm
There's a vast network of underground rhizomes that can sprout the second
you knock down the tops, and will keep on doing so as long as there is
stored starch in them. It will take a very long time to exhaust them
by purely physical control methods, so this is one of those cases where
physical and chemical controls may be required.

Always a good practice with trying to control something this firmly established:get an expert id on the weed first. If, for example, you've actually got
Japanese knotweed, sometimes called Japanese, American or Mexican bamboo,
there's a good possibility that the control measures could be different.
http://www.invasivespeciesinfo.gov/plants/knotweed.shtml
http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/fact/pdf/faja1.pdf

Kay

David E. Ross

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Feb 7, 2012, 12:26:50 PM2/7/12
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Burning will NOT kill the underground roots and runners.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
<http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html>
Gardening diary at <http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary>

David E. Ross

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Feb 7, 2012, 12:40:43 PM2/7/12
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On 2/6/12 5:24 PM, Sonny wrote [in part]:
> Bamboo is a grass. You can chop it down, but it will sprout back
> out. You either have to dig up the roots, also, or kill the plant
> with a herbicide. Check with the nearest forest service, as they have
> a potent enough tree killer that will do the job and only they are
> allowed to use that herbicide. I doubt you can do that big of job,
> yourself.
>

Yes, bamboo is a giant grass. However, you do not want to use a
tree-killing herbicide.

There are herbicides that specifically target grass, killing both the
visible growth and also the roots but generally not damaging non-grass
plants. I use Grass Getter, but there are others. These are best used
when the grass is actively growing.

I suggest you have the area cleared. Any piece of bamboo remaining --
if it includes an internode (joint) -- can root and sprout. Thus, what
is cut must be hauled away

In the spring, fertilize the area well and make sure the soil remains
moist. When new bamboo shoots are about 1-2 ft high, spray with a
grass-killing herbicide mixed with some liquid soap. The soap ensures
that the spray really wets the bamboo. You might have to repeat this
treatment a few times. Be sure to treat any new shoots that grow beyond
the current patch; running bamboo can send its underground runners many
feet away from existing shoots.

Mysterious Traveler

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Feb 7, 2012, 2:24:18 PM2/7/12
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That Bamboo is worth a lot of money. Before you destroy it look
on Ebay and see how much it sells for then think of how much you
can make. It's like money in the bank. People pay for something
you don't want.

--

Brooklyn1

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Feb 7, 2012, 3:04:28 PM2/7/12
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Maybe he'll sell it to you, all you gotta do is come and take it all.

Kay Lancaster

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Feb 7, 2012, 5:42:03 PM2/7/12
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There are 3 species of Arundinaria native to the US, all in the SE/Appalachia
area: A. appalachiana, A. gigantea, and A. tecta. That's all we've got for
native bamboos. There are others in N America, in Mexico and Central America.
Mexico, for instance, has 8 genera and 35 species.

If you want to know more: http://herbarium.usu.edu/webmanual/

Kay

Red Green

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Feb 7, 2012, 6:35:31 PM2/7/12
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"Bob F" <bobn...@gmail.com> wrote in news:jgqcui$kk5$1...@dont-email.me:
Open Chinese takeout?

songbird

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Feb 7, 2012, 8:17:39 PM2/7/12
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Elliott P wrote:

...

i'd be calling around, there are likely
some people who'd want it, it does have
many uses.

flooring, fencing, roofing, matting, blinds,
walls, construction, musical instruments, food, ...

cheaper to get it locally than to import
it.


songbird

David E. Ross

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Feb 7, 2012, 10:40:50 PM2/7/12
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Actually, the Arundinoideae are not bamboos. They are reeds. None of
the bamboo genera fall within that subfamily.

David E. Ross

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Feb 7, 2012, 10:49:20 PM2/7/12
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On 2/7/12 7:40 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
> On 2/7/12 2:42 PM, Kay Lancaster wrote:
>> On Tue, 7 Feb 2012 08:00:32 -0800 (PST), Harry K <turnk...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>> On Feb 7, 6:21 am, N8N <njna...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I don't think it is native anywhere on the continent. but then I hae
>>> been wrong once or twice in my life.
>>
>> There are 3 species of Arundinaria native to the US, all in the SE/Appalachia
>> area: A. appalachiana, A. gigantea, and A. tecta. That's all we've got for
>> native bamboos. There are others in N America, in Mexico and Central America.
>> Mexico, for instance, has 8 genera and 35 species.
>>
>> If you want to know more: http://herbarium.usu.edu/webmanual/
>>
>> Kay
>
> Actually, the Arundinoideae are not bamboos. They are reeds. None of
> the bamboo genera fall within that subfamily.
>

Oops! Arundinaria are NOT part of the Arundinoideae. Instead, they are
indeed bamboos.

JIMMIE

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Feb 7, 2012, 11:40:40 PM2/7/12
to
On Feb 6, 11:54 am, Elliott P <elliott.pl...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
> stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
> *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
> stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
> dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
> allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
> restore the property, inside and out.
>
> Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
> this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
> with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
> commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
> can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
> would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.
>
> The property is in Towson, Maryland.
>
> Thank you in advance.

I had a half acre lot down in Ga my parents bought for me as a gift.
Some gift! I could mow it down and there were be 6 inch sprouts the
next day.
The lot was in town but my neighbor had goats on a little hobby farm
out in the country. We fenced in my lot and put the goats on it. It
took all summer and fall but the goats finally won out. A new job took
me out of state so I let my neighbor grow a garden on the lot until I
could sell it. Think it would take too many goats for yours.

Jimmie

Harry K

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Feb 7, 2012, 11:26:04 PM2/7/12
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??? Roundup works very well indeed on grass. Dunno about bamboo but
I don't see why it wouldn't work there as well.

Harry K

Elliott P

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Feb 8, 2012, 12:28:12 AM2/8/12
to
Thank you David, and everyone else for the responses thus far. The
county would not be opposed to this, but would ask for grading permits
if we were to do any serious excavation. Just cutting it all down
wouldn't require any notice of the gov't. One of the neighbors
informed us that the old homeowner used to sell/give the bamboo to the
National Zoo for its Panda. No joke!

100,000 lbs is a lot of bamboo! I don't think that's far off though.
It is very dense, hard to walk through even, and the heights range
from 10 to 30 feet in spots. I'll get some pictures, its quite a sight
to see.

Theres a new problem of some possible underground utilities and maybe
a septic field amidst the bamboo. This could explain the rapid growth.
We'll have to use caution with mowers and tractors until we know where
that is.

Thanks again for all the responses thus far.

Kay Lancaster

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Feb 8, 2012, 11:42:04 AM2/8/12
to
["Followup-To:" header set to rec.gardens.]
On Tue, 07 Feb 2012 19:40:50 -0800, David E. Ross <nob...@nowhere.invalid> wrote:
> Actually, the Arundinoideae are not bamboos. They are reeds. None of
> the bamboo genera fall within that subfamily.

Arundo is in the Arundinoideae; Arundinaria is in the Bambusoideae. I think
you're confusing the two genera.

Arundinaria are the giant canes; they are found in N. America and S. Africa.
When you read about canebrakes, they're talking about big stands of Arundinaria.

Kay


>

John Simpson

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Feb 8, 2012, 4:18:33 PM2/8/12
to
"Elliott P" wrote in message
news:b232d0b9-0551-4421...@b18g2000vbz.googlegroups.com...

Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
*one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
restore the property, inside and out.

Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.

The property is in Towson, Maryland.

Thank you in advance.

If you're in MD, your 'bamboo' is most likely Japanese Knotweed.
It's REAL tough to get rid of!

JAS

Home Guy

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Feb 8, 2012, 4:29:09 PM2/8/12
to

"Limp Arbor" <limp_...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:69cf3496-eb3a-45b8...@t30g2000vbx.googlegroups.com...

>They make great tomato stakes after they are cut down & dried.

>The initial cutting is the least of your problem. You'll then need to
>'cut the grass' twice a week until it stops trying to grow back...

I cane "beat" my wife & her grandmother with a chunk of it. You should see
granny try to wheel away from me when I get the big stick out. She gets it
twice as hard when she tries to make a break for it.







gregz

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Feb 8, 2012, 4:34:02 PM2/8/12
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I said in another group, I'll bet the Amish could do cool things with that.

Greg

Kay Lancaster

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Feb 8, 2012, 5:42:03 PM2/8/12
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On Tue, 07 Feb 2012 19:49:20 -0800, David E. Ross <nob...@nowhere.invalid> wrote:
> Oops! Arundinaria are NOT part of the Arundinoideae. Instead, they are
> indeed bamboos.

This came through after I found the initial statement... should have
known you'd know when you stopped to think about it!

Kay

Kay Lancaster

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Feb 8, 2012, 5:42:03 PM2/8/12
to

David E. Ross

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Feb 8, 2012, 5:43:21 PM2/8/12
to
Roundup kills almost any plant. Grass Getter, Poast, and similar
grass-specific herbicides do not harm most broad-leaf plants.

With both herbicids and insecticides, I tend to favor the kinds that are
specific to the pest I'm trying to kill instead of killing everything in
the neighborhood. No, I'm not an organic gardener; I'm merely careful.

David E. Ross

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Feb 8, 2012, 6:14:03 PM2/8/12
to
On 2/8/12 1:18 PM, John Simpson wrote:
>
> If you're in MD, your 'bamboo' is most likely Japanese Knotweed.
> It's REAL tough to get rid of!
>
> JAS
>

Both Wikipedia and Sunset's "Western Garden Book" indicate that Japanese
knotweed is Persicaria capitata. This is a ground cover that, in my
garden, forms a mat about 6 inches thick. Through most (sometimes all)
of the year, it has small clusters of pink flowers that resemble the
flowers of white clover. For that reason, P. capitata is also called
pink clover although it is definitely not a clover at all.

However, Wikipedia also indicates that Japanese knotweed is also
Fallopia japonica (aka, Polygonum cuspidatum or Reynoutria japonica).
This indeed grows like a bamboo to 10 or more feet high. If this is
really what Elliott P has, a grass-specific herbicide will not work
because Fallopia japonica is not at all a grass.

All this illustrates the fact that many different, unlike plants often
share the same common name. This is why I try to use botanical names
when possible. This also illustrates why the plant should be positively
identified before any attempt to eradicate it. If a neighbor was
correct in reporting that this was cut for feeding pandas at a nearby
zoo, however, this must be a bamboo and not F. japonica.

Harry K

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Feb 8, 2012, 11:25:37 PM2/8/12
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In the case of bamboo, that will be the only thing in that patch.
Time he gets it killed out he will be looking at bare ground no matter
what he uses.

Harry K

Gunner

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Feb 9, 2012, 3:24:20 AM2/9/12
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On Feb 8, 2:43 pm, "David E. Ross" <nob...@nowhere.invalid> wrote:
Controlling Bamboo in Landscape Plantings

by Dr. Joseph C. Neal, Weed Scientist
Department of Horticultural Science
North Carolina State University


"Too often I receive the following plea: "My neighbor planted bamboo
and now it is coming up all over my yard. I have tried to kill it and
nothing seems to work!. What can I do?" Bamboo is one of the most
difficult to control "escaped ornamentals." Once established, bamboo
can take over landscapes, stream banks, and woodlands. I have seen
bamboo shoots actually breaking though concrete driveways.
Unfortunately, postemergence herbicides such as Roundup seem to only
burn back the foliage, providing no real control. "

Elliott P

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Feb 9, 2012, 9:03:29 AM2/9/12
to
David and others,

I uploaded several pictures I happen to have of the questionable
plants to my Dropbox account. You can see the gallery here:
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2745459/1/TowsonBamboo?h=d5ab39

I took these before posting this, therefore I don't have any close ups
of the leaves really. The first shows a fox I found running in there.
The next four are various angles, where you can see how massive these
are. There are also some in the snow, and then one showing how a large
tree has fallen among the bamboo causing some damage.

I'll take more when time and daylight allows.

bob haller

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Feb 9, 2012, 9:22:32 AM2/9/12
to
> I'll take more when time and daylight allows.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

ahh you admit a fox in the area. thus you have a wildlife preserve.
and will require federal state local government approval. must catch
and relocate all the wildlife. and meet EPA and other requirements.
plus post bonds and get inspections to prove the standards were met

why not just leave this island of whatever alone?

what ae you planning on doing with it? planting grass?

thats just more grass to cut:(

Brooklyn1

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Feb 9, 2012, 9:45:51 AM2/9/12
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Your property looks completely overgrown with all kinds of vegetation.
To get rid of that bamboo you are going to have to till deep and rake
out the roots. I suggest you obtain a dozer, bamboo stumps will
pierce tractor tires. You have a lot of work to do over the next few
years... you are not going to get rid of that bamboo in one season,
probably take five years of constant attention. Consider yourself
lucky it's not on a slope. After cutting it to the ground the first
thing I'd do is hire someone with a backhoe to dig a trench around the
entire perimeter, deep and wide. Once the bamboo is eradicated I
suggest seriously considering installing a 2 acre pond. Anyone who
plants bamboo, any kind, is an imbecile.
http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/outdoor/how-to-get-rid-of-bamboo/
http://www.completebamboo.com/bamboo_removal.html

Harry K

unread,
Feb 9, 2012, 10:27:20 AM2/9/12
to
> burn back the foliage, providing no real control. "- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Odd. I just googled it and your cite is the first on. All the others
on page one say Roundup works fine...as would be expected as RU kills
roots, not top growth. The tops die when they are no longer getting
food.

Harry K

dpb

unread,
Feb 9, 2012, 11:10:15 AM2/9/12
to
On 2/9/2012 9:27 AM, Harry K wrote:
...

> Odd. I just googled it and your cite is the first on. All the others
> on page one say Roundup works fine...as would be expected as RU kills
> roots, not top growth. The tops die when they are no longer getting
> food.

Glyphosate kills plants by inhibiting 5-enolpyruvylshikimate-3-phosphate
synthase (EPSPS). EPSPS is a key enzyme in the shikimate biosynthetic
pathway which is necessary for the production of the aromatic amino
acids, auxin, phytoalexins, folic acid, lignin, plastoquinones and many
other secondary products.

There are plants that are resistant both naturally as well as
genetically altered ("Roundup Ready (tm)" soybeans, etc.). There have
been instances also of weeds becoming glyphosate-resistant where it has
been used exclusively for weed control over a period of time.

I'm not positive how effective it is on bamboo(s); I'm sure it would
only be very effective on small new growth after a severe mowing if it
is very useful at all.

You might investigate Remedy (tm) as an alternative altho it may be
restricted back east, I don't know...since I farm and have applicator's
license I'm not up on just what homeowner can get otc...

--

Gunner

unread,
Feb 9, 2012, 1:20:48 PM2/9/12
to
> Harry K.

>as would be expected as RU kills
> roots, not  top growth.

I do not find this to be correct as dpb's post explains. . I do see
where my statement is misleading, should have said is a type of grass
that R/U control is not effective on. I do not believe R/U is even on
label for bamboo. but do verify that. For further references see
below:


http://www.bioone.org/doi/abs/10.1614/WT-05-187.1;

Weed Technology
Published by: Weed Science Society of America
Weed Technology 21(1):80-83. 2007

doi: http://dx.doi.org/10.1614/WT-05-187.1

Controlling Bamboo (Phyllostachys Spp.) with Herbicides
Mark A. Czarnota and Jeffrey Derr*

"Bamboos are grass species that can escape cultivation and invade
lawns, landscapes, and other areas. Limited information is available
on ways to control invasive bamboo species. Greenhouse and field
studies were initiated to determine the level of bamboo control
provided by a single application of selected PRE and POST herbicides.
Bamboo species included in the study were golden bamboo in greenhouse
experiments and red-margined bamboo in field experiments. In
greenhouse trials, MSMA, quinclorac, dithiopyr, clethodim, fenoxaprop,
and sethoxydim did not control either species. Glyphosate,
glufosinate, and fluazifop significantly reduced bamboo-shoot fresh
weight, although regrowth occurred after a single application. In
field trials, bamboo control with dichlobenil in the 2002 and 2004
experiments was less than 23%. For the study initiated in 2002,
glyphosate and imazapyr provided 76% and 98% bamboo control,
respectively, at 58 wk after treatment (WAT). By 161 WAT
(approximately 3 yr after treatment), bamboo-control ratings were 40%
with glyphosate and 85% with imazapyr. For the study initiated in
2004, at 61 WAT, glyphosate and imazapyr provided 46 and 88% control
of bamboo, respectively."

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ag266:

“Herbicides"

"Considering the perennial nature of bamboo, the use of herbicide will
often be needed to hasten and improve control. However,*** there are
currently no herbicide labels that list bamboo as a controlled
species*** (emphasis added) . But there are herbicides that are
relatively effective on this weed. Both glyphosate (Roundup and
others) and imazapyr (Arsenal and others), ***used at high rates***
( emphasis added) , will control bamboo.
Research has shown that for herbicides to be effective, the bamboo
should be mowed or chopped and allowed to regrow to a height of
approximately 3 feet, or until the leaves expand (Figure 2 Pic
deleted). Glyphosate at a 5% solution or imazapyr as a 1% solution can
then be applied directly to the leaves.

It has been noted that imazapyr is more effective on bamboo than
glyphosate. However, imazapyr has a great deal of foliar and soil
activity and will potentially kill hardwood trees, shrubs, and all
grasses if their roots extend into the vicinity of the application.
Therefore, if the bamboo is growing near any desirable plant species,
imazapyr should not be used. Glyphosate does not have soil activity
and will only kill plants that are contacted with the spray solution.
This makes glyphosate a more useful herbicide option for most areas
where bamboo grows. It is important to note that one application of
glyphosate will not eradicate bamboo. You will likely be required to
mow and spray as many as 4 times for complete bamboo control to be
achieved. Persistence is key when targeting this weed.
Additionally, glyphosate comes in many different formulations and
concentrations. The 5% solution (or 6 fl oz per gallon) refers to
glyphosate formulated at a 41% concentration. If the glyphosate
product you intend to use does not contain 41% active ingredient, then
the application rate should be altered to accommodate this
difference.”

http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/weeds/hgic2320.html;

“A final, and often necessary, method of control for bamboo is the use
of herbicides. A non-selective herbicide with the active ingredient
glyphosate (e.g., Roundup Original, Eraser Systemic Weed & Grass
Killer, Quick Kill Grass & Weed Killer, Bonide Kleenup Grass & Weed
Killer, Hi-Yield Super Concentrate Killzall Weed & Grass, Maxide Super
Concentrate 41% Weed & Grass Killer, and Southern States Grass & Weed
Killer Concentrate) is the best option for homeowners. Glyphosate has
very little residual soil activity and will only kill plants that
receive direct contact. For glyphosate to be effective, the bamboo
must be mowed or chopped and allowed to regrow until the new leaves
expand. Glyphosate should then be applied to the leaves. Keep in mind
that one application of glyphosate will not eradicate the bamboo
infestation. It can potentially take two to three years to gain
complete control. Do not apply these products directly to water or to
areas where surface water is present. For bamboo control next to
creeks, lake basins, wetlands or other water sources where spray drift
will contact the water, choose a glyphosate product labeled for use
near water, such as Eraser AQ, Rodeo, Pondmaster, Aquamaster or
Aquapro. Aquatic formulations of glyphosate may be mixed with a non-
ionic surfactant, such as Ortho X-77 or Southern Ag Surfactant for
Herbicides, to improve control. When using herbicides, please be sure
to follow all label instructions.”

bob haller

unread,
Feb 9, 2012, 4:21:03 PM2/9/12
to
> plants bamboo, any kind, is an imbecile.  http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/outdoor/how-to-get-rid-of-bamboo/http://www.completebamboo.com/bamboo_removal.html- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

i guess you missed where the OP said theres utility lines and a septic
tank in the bamboo area.

Whats wrong with just leaving it grow?

Brooklyn1

unread,
Feb 9, 2012, 4:55:07 PM2/9/12
to
On Thu, 9 Feb 2012 13:21:03 -0800 (PST), bob haller <hal...@aol.com>
wrote:
I guess you missed where the OP said there MIGHT BE utility lines and
a septic in the bamboo area.


Kay Lancaster

unread,
Feb 9, 2012, 5:42:03 PM2/9/12
to
On Thu, 9 Feb 2012 06:03:29 -0800 (PST), Elliott P <elliot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I uploaded several pictures I happen to have of the questionable
> plants to my Dropbox account. You can see the gallery here:
> http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2745459/1/TowsonBamboo?h=d5ab39

No, you've got a real bamboo there; my guess from the photos is a Phyllostachys.
Control methods here: http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/node/324
http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/pubs/midatlantic/bamboos.htm
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74142.html

Watch carefully for spray drift. Desirable plants that get hit with
Roundup/Rodeo can be rescued by immediate treatment with muddy water to bind
glyphosate.

My first inclination, seeing those photos, would be to consider brush
hogging the area and then hand application of glyphosate to the new sprouts.
I'm pretty sure that will work, but will require constant vigilance and respray
for a couple of years.

And yes, I will consider using carefully chosen chemicals, preferably applied
in the most directed manner possible, for control of large weed infestations.

Kay



Ron

unread,
Feb 9, 2012, 11:17:02 PM2/9/12
to
> ahh you admit a fox in the area. thus you have a wildlife preserve.
> and will require federal state local government approval. must catch
> and relocate all the wildlife. and meet EPA and other requirements.
> plus post bonds and get inspections to prove the standards were met

<eye roll number 2 in this thread>

dpb

unread,
Feb 10, 2012, 9:08:33 AM2/10/12
to
On 2/9/2012 10:17 PM, Ron wrote:
...

>> and will require federal state local government approval. must catch
>> and relocate all the wildlife. and meet EPA and other requirements.
>> plus post bonds and get inspections to prove the standards were met
>
> <eye roll number 2 in this thread>

Not sure if tongue-in-cheek or not; w/ Haller, probably not. :(

Next we'll be hearing how the K&T wiring must come out... :)

--

Evan

unread,
Feb 10, 2012, 12:13:57 PM2/10/12
to
On Feb 7, 9:21 am, N8N <njna...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> On Feb 6, 4:00 pm, Evan <evan.news.re...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Feb 6, 11:54 am, Elliott P <elliott.pl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
> > > stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
> > > *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
> > > stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
> > > dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
> > > allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
> > > restore the property, inside and out.
>
> > > Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
> > > this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
> > > with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
> > > commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
> > > can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
> > > would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.
>
> > > The property is in Towson, Maryland.
>
> > > Thank you in advance.
>
> > Are you allowed to clear cut the wooded/brush/bamboo area ?
>
> > Is it considered a "wet land" ?
>
> > You should check with your nearest conservation/environmental
> > authorities to make sure you are allowed to cut all of that
> > natural vegetation down without some kind of site plan/impact
> > study done and having a permit hearing...
>
> Not saying that the OP doesn't need to do that (I've heard of dumber
> things) but bamboo has never been native to Maryland to my
> knowledge...  you'd think the enviro types would be happy to see it
> go.
>
> nate

@Nate:

It might not be "native" to Maryland, but it is growing there on
its own over a 1.5 acre area -- which makes it something
that might require permission of/supervision from the AHJ or
environmental/conservation authorities before you go about
removing it on your own...

The nativity of a species of plant doesn't impact its vital
role as a means of erosion control and as a water absorber...

Making major changes which effect erosion and water flow
properties of most lands requires oversight -- it is the size
of the area in which the OP seeks to modify that is really
at issue...

~~ Evan

bob haller

unread,
Feb 10, 2012, 12:38:15 PM2/10/12
to
well my post was a joke, but one never knows, and using herbicides
likely make it worse.

i have some new K&T info but thats for another day........

dpb

unread,
Feb 10, 2012, 12:53:41 PM2/10/12
to
On 2/10/2012 11:13 AM, Evan wrote:
...

> It might not be "native" to Maryland, but it is growing there on
> its own over a 1.5 acre area -- which makes it something
> that might require permission of/supervision from the AHJ or
> environmental/conservation authorities before you go about
> removing it on your own...
...

I'd think it far more likely to be on a noxious weed list _requiring_
control than the converse...

--

Brooklyn1

unread,
Feb 10, 2012, 2:34:23 PM2/10/12
to
Were it protected land; water shed, riparian, wetlands, etc, the owner
would know by perusing the property survey or simply phoning the town
clerk. Such information is generally on line too as it's public
record... they'd be able to say if there is a septic or utility line
buried. Absent a body of water on that piece of land I seriously
doubt that stand of bamboo is in any way protected... I have a 1/2
pond that I mow right to the edge each fall and cut out most of the
catails. I'd just hack that basmboo down and do whatever it takes
within legality (chems/fire) to be rid of it. With the right
equipment it shouldn't take very long to cut, chip, plow, and rake
that small plot, no more than 4 eight hour days and like 40 gallons of
diesel. If kept closely mowed whatever roots remain will die off
within a couple three seasons, I seriously doubt any defolient is
necessary, just keep mowing, even if twice a week... with my 7' mower
I can mow an acre in 20 minutes. I mow 10 acres of lawn every week,
when weather is dry I can do it all in one day, and I have several
separate areas, and lots of edging, miles of edging.
With my brush hog I can chop down a 4 acre wildflower meadow in about
four hours, typically 4'-6' tall:
http://i41.tinypic.com/18ndpg.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/15dto4h.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/2cygs4o.jpg
No problem with my finish mower either:
http://i44.tinypic.com/25ujfgj.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/1177lom.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/2pzy2s1.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/2yn19xu.jpg
After clearing wild turkeys have a feast:
http://i44.tinypic.com/2134qps.jpg
I can guarantee I'd have that bamboo gone in three days, all while in
total A/C, dust-free comfort, with music blasting, wouldn't even work
up a sweat.

HeyBub

unread,
Feb 10, 2012, 2:52:52 PM2/10/12
to
Elliott P wrote:
> Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
> stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
> *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
> stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
> dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
> allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
> restore the property, inside and out.
>
> Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
> this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
> with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
> commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
> can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
> would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.
>

You could spray it. With Roundup. Or Napalm.

Attack it with a bush-hog, or, if too big, a stump grinder. My local power
company hired a crew with what looked like a stump-grinder on the end of a
60' cherry-picker. It turned large trees to sawdust on their right of way.

Put an ad on Craigslist: "Free Bamboo - You cut it you can have it" to cull
the herd to a manageable size.

One pass with a bulldozer ought to knock it to the ground. Then treat the
area with a herbicide or ground sterilizer.


Ron

unread,
Feb 10, 2012, 1:00:33 PM2/10/12
to
On Feb 10, 12:38 pm, bob haller <hall...@aol.com> wrote:
> On Feb 10, 9:08 am, dpb <n...@non.net> wrote:
>
> > On 2/9/2012 10:17 PM, Ron wrote:
> > ...
>
> > >> and will require federal state local government approval. must catch
> > >> and relocate all the wildlife. and meet EPA and other requirements.
> > >> plus post bonds and get inspections to prove the standards were met
>
> > > <eye roll number 2 in this thread>
>
> > Not sure if tongue-in-cheek or not; w/ Haller, probably not.  :(
>
> > Next we'll be hearing how the K&T wiring must come out... :)
>
> > --
>
> well my post was a joke

Then, nicely done!

Elliott P

unread,
Feb 10, 2012, 4:36:22 PM2/10/12
to
> four hours, typically 4'-6' tall:http://i41.tinypic.com/18ndpg.jpghttp://i44.tinypic.com/15dto4h.jpghttp://i39.tinypic.com/2cygs4o.jpg
> No problem with my finish mower either:http://i44.tinypic.com/25ujfgj.jpghttp://i43.tinypic.com/1177lom.jpghttp://i40.tinypic.com/2pzy2s1.jpghttp://i40.tinypic.com/2yn19xu.jpg
> After clearing wild turkeys have a feast:http://i44.tinypic.com/2134qps.jpg
> I can guarantee I'd have that bamboo gone in three days, all while in
> total A/C, dust-free comfort, with music blasting, wouldn't even work
> up a sweat.

Hello all. I've been in talks with the local government (whom I work
for) about the legal necessities and ramifications of this job.

I've located the septic tank well within the bamboo. So looks like
I'll be using a chainsaw around there.

I got an email from a local government forester who referred me to the
Home Horticulture & Master Gardener Coordinator at University of MD,
Carroll County Extension. He gave me two links, one of which I've seen
already posted. The first one is by Frank Gouin (retired MD
Agronomist, who was the Bamboo guru).

http://bayweekly.com/articles/bay-gardener-dr-frank-gouin/article/putting-curse-bamboo
http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/pubs/midatlantic/control-grassesandsedges.htm

I am leaning towards some means of chopping it down to ground level
(brush hog/saws), disposing the bamboo however (chipper?), and then
applying Roundup in the Fall, as described in the first link.

Also for the friends of nature here, even if we clear cut the whole
bamboo, there's still three acres of old growth deciduous trees behind
it to harbor plenty of animals and what not. One of the main reasons
for wanting to clear the bamboo is to prevent it from taking over the
giant trees back there. I think killing off an invasive forest for the
benefit of an old one, is a good trade off. But that's not the point
of this post.

Thank you all for all the tips thus far. I think this post will find
its way into Google searches and benefit many more people than just
me.

chri...@gmail.com

unread,
Jul 10, 2012, 11:43:06 AM7/10/12
to
If you're still trying to remove bamboo, we might be able to help you out in making a small dent in your acreage. I'd be willing to take 2-3 loads (uhaul size truck). We can be clean about it, would not leave a mess behind. You're local to us so it would not be out of our way. You can shoot me an email if you'd like at ctok...@hotmail.com
If anyone else has problems with their overgrowth of bamboo, please feel free to email me. thanks!
(near montgomery county, MD)



On Monday, February 6, 2012 11:54:09 AM UTC-5, Elliott Plack wrote:
> Greetings all. A new property of my family&#39;s is covered by a massive
> stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
> *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
> stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
> dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
> allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
> restore the property, inside and out.
>
> Options for removal I&#39;ve seen generally target small areas. However

banbam...@gmail.com

unread,
Sep 11, 2013, 4:51:11 PM9/11/13
to
On Monday, February 6, 2012 11:54:09 AM UTC-5, Elliott Plack wrote:
> Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
>
> stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
>
> *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
>
> stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
>
> dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
>
> allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
>
> restore the property, inside and out.
>
>
>
> Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
>
> this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
>
> with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
>
> commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
>
> can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
>
> would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.
>
>
>
> The property is in Towson, Maryland.
>
>
>
> Thank you in advance.

Did you manage to eradicate your bamboo? https://www.facebook.com/runawaybamboomd?ref=hl#!/runawaybamboomd

harryagain

unread,
Sep 12, 2013, 2:59:55 AM9/12/13
to

<banbam...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:6f48156e-f5c9-46c8...@googlegroups.com...
> On Monday, February 6, 2012 11:54:09 AM UTC-5, Elliott Plack wrote:
>> Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
>>
>> stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
>>
>> *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
>>
>> stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
>>
>> dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
>>
>> allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
>>
>> restore the property, inside and out.
>>
>>
>>
>> Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
>>
>> this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
>>
>> with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
>>
>> commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
>>
>> can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
>>
>> would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.

Cut it all down and burn, wait for it to regrow and spray with a good
weedkiller.


Bill N

unread,
Dec 24, 2014, 1:44:05 PM12/24/14
to
replying to Elliott P , Bill N wrote:
Well I can see its been a long time since this thread was started, but you
may still be trying to get rid of that Bamboo.

What worked for me finally was to use SALT, yep salt. It soaks into the
soil and kills everything for several years (I think the Bible says 7
years). The salt continues to wash down into the soil with time though,
which is ideal for killing the Bamboo roots (which can be as much as 1 or
2 feet down), but lets ordinary grass grow on the surface in as little as
a year. Do not use road salt, since this usually contains an
anti-herbicide agent that neutralizes the harsh effect that salt usually
has on plants. Pure rock salt or sea salt can be purchased in 50 lb bags
from farm supply stores at about $4.50 per bag, which was economical
enough for me to treat about 1/2 acre of Bamboo. Must have used about
6000 lbs of the stuff to finally kill it all off, which comes to about
$540 for the treated 1/2 acre. If you are doing 1.5 acres, it might be
more economical to have someone deliver a big truckload to you directly.

The use of salt has far less of an environmental impact than herbicides,
since salt is naturally found in the soil anyway, and eventually the salt
will find itself back in the sea where it originally came from. Our
landscaper tried all kinds of herbicides that only a licensed professional
could even get, and the Bamboo just laughed at them (may have done some
surface kill, but then it just grew back from the deep roots). Not the
salt, which was found to be deadly (not a single stalk has grown back
after a year now).

--


cl...@snyder.on.ca

unread,
Dec 24, 2014, 2:54:15 PM12/24/14
to
Nothing else will grow there either, and the salt can (and will) get
into the groundwater when applied at such a high rate. It will cost
you dearly if a neighbour's well turns brackish because of your weed
treatment.

As for the road salt having an additive to make it less dangerous to
plants - that my dear, is HOGWASH. Road salt is plain rock salt.

There may be other anti-icing agents in use where you are - but road
salt is straight rock salt.
Message has been deleted

dpb

unread,
Dec 24, 2014, 3:15:02 PM12/24/14
to
On 12/24/2014 12:44 PM, Bill N wrote:
> replying to Elliott P , Bill N wrote:
...

> The use of salt has far less of an environmental impact than herbicides,
> since salt is naturally found in the soil anyway, and eventually the salt
> will find itself back in the sea where it originally came from. ...

Not even close...what salt concentrations are naturally occurring to the
point that plants other than those which are specifically adapted to
seashore or other brackish environments is quite low--to the point that
there's a serious problem in areas that irrigate with hard water that
with time the salt buildup ruins the ground for cultivation (or at least
has serious ramifications on productivity).

And, besides the comments of clare which are spot-on, once you've
introduced it, it's there for as long as it takes for it to finally
disperse whereas virtually all herbicides will breakdown chemically into
inert ingredients within a relatively short time (typically 90 day or
even less).

Just not a good idea for widespread treatment; can be effective and
cost-efficient on individual specimens, granted--I use it on isolated
prickly pear and yucca in the native grass pastures for the purpose.

--

BillN

unread,
Dec 24, 2014, 6:44:05 PM12/24/14
to
replying to clare , BillN wrote:
You have no idea what you are talking about, all three of you. If you
actually researched this, you would find out from the suppliers themselves
that their road salts have ingredients in them to counteract the usual
plant killing effect. This is certainly true for anything you would get
at the big box stores, and most states now also use such road salts for
the same reason. It may even be an EPA requirement by now. So please
don't tell me a fact is not a fact until you actually know that it's not.

As for killing Bamboo, good luck trying to use herbicides. For those of
us that have actually done this, we simply know better. Yes, salt will
take years to dissipate, but a one time dose will certainly do so with
time. Did you not notice the part where I said that grasses are growing
on the surface after only one year?

The chances of ground water contamination are virtually nonexistent in
most areas, as most groundwater comes from well below where the salt is
present. Even if there was some mixing, it would happen at such a slow
rate that it would take a test lab to even measure the miniscule increase.
Since this is just salt, the amount the someone eats daily would be
dramatically greater than what they could get from even the worst such
contamination. Frankly, I would much rather have a neighbor using salt
than extremely powerful herbicides, as some of these will not break down
so fast once they get underground.

I've just recently joined this forum thinking it would be helpful for
those of us actually trying to solve real problems, but it seems there are
a lot of trolls here who want to argue more than solving them. Guess I'll
drop this tool as broken.

--


bob haller

unread,
Dec 24, 2014, 6:54:11 PM12/24/14
to
On Monday, February 6, 2012 11:54:09 AM UTC-5, Elliott Plack wrote:
> Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
> stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
> *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
> stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
> dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
> allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
> restore the property, inside and out.
>
> Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
> this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
> with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
> commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
> can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
> would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.
>
> The property is in Towson, Maryland.
>
> Thank you in advance.

I use rock salth tokill tree roots in my sewer line. it works great and is supper cheap

micky

unread,
Dec 24, 2014, 7:53:49 PM12/24/14
to
On Wed, 24 Dec 2014 18:44:01 +0000, Bill N
<caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote:

>replying to Elliott P , Bill N wrote:
>Well I can see its been a long time since this thread was started, but you
>may still be trying to get rid of that Bamboo.

Speaking of Towson, I knew someone about 5 miles north of Towson. I
think he was head of the MD CLU about 25 years ago, and once a year had
a party at his house. He had started with a little bit of bamboo at
the edge of his property and it was spreading. If unchecked it would
kep his his neighbor from entering via the back yard, but that wasn't
really a need. I don't know what he eventually did.
>
>What worked for me finally was to use SALT, yep salt. It soaks into the
>soil and kills everything for several years (I think the Bible says 7
>years). The salt continues to wash down into the soil with time though,
>which is ideal for killing the Bamboo roots (which can be as much as 1 or
>2 feet down), but lets ordinary grass grow on the surface in as little as
>a year. Do not use road salt, since this usually contains an
>anti-herbicide agent that neutralizes the harsh effect that salt usually
>has on plants. Pure rock salt or sea salt can be purchased in 50 lb bags
>from farm supply stores at about $4.50 per bag, which was economical
>enough for me to treat about 1/2 acre of Bamboo. Must have used about
>6000 lbs of the stuff to finally kill it all off, which comes to about
>$540 for the treated 1/2 acre. If you are doing 1.5 acres, it might be
>more economical to have someone deliver a big truckload to you directly.
>
>The use of salt has far less of an environmental impact than herbicides,
>since salt is naturally found in the soil anyway, and eventually the salt
>will find itself back in the sea where it originally came from. Our
>landscaper tried all kinds of herbicides that only a licensed professional
>could even get, and the Bamboo just laughed at them (may have done some
>surface kill, but then it just grew back from the deep roots). Not the
>salt, which was found to be deadly (not a single stalk has grown back
>after a year now).

If I remembered his name, I'd mail this to him, but the house may be
totally covered by bamboo now, and I hope they got out the front door.

BTW, I notice you capitalize Bamboo. Do you, perchance, think it has a
will of its own?

cl...@snyder.on.ca

unread,
Dec 25, 2014, 12:22:08 AM12/25/14
to
On Wed, 24 Dec 2014 23:44:01 +0000, BillN
<caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote:

>replying to clare , BillN wrote:
>You have no idea what you are talking about, all three of you. If you
>actually researched this, you would find out from the suppliers themselves
>that their road salts have ingredients in them to counteract the usual
>plant killing effect. This is certainly true for anything you would get
>at the big box stores, and most states now also use such road salts for
>the same reason. It may even be an EPA requirement by now. So please
>don't tell me a fact is not a fact until you actually know that it's not.

I know for a fact that what windsor salt supplies as road salt is pure
rock salt. From Windsor Salt's web page:

Salt has been used in de-icing since the 1940s, providing safety and
mobility for motorists, as well as for commercial and emergency
vehicles. Without it, winter would be hazardous and chaotic. In
Canada, the primary type used is rock salt, which is mined directly
from the earth and requires no additional processing. In excess of 4.5
million tons of salt is used yearly to keep roads safe in Canada
alone.
It works by a simple principle. The brine solution created when salt
is applied to ice and snow has a lower freezing temperature than the
surrounding ice, making travel safe.
In fact, it's the safest, most economical and efficient de-icer
known, and has the added advantage of being in plentiful supply. Look
for our memorable Safety Salt bag at a retailer near you.

Some consumer "ice melter" products are Urea based, some are Calcium
Chloride,

Only their Sate-T-Plus EcoSafe Ice melter has additives to make it
safer for plants. This is a consumer product .

Products like Polar Ice have blue die crystals so you can see where it
has been applied, but it is still just calcium chloride and sodium
chloride mix.
>
>As for killing Bamboo, good luck trying to use herbicides. For those of
>us that have actually done this, we simply know better. Yes, salt will
>take years to dissipate, but a one time dose will certainly do so with
>time. Did you not notice the part where I said that grasses are growing
>on the surface after only one year?
>
>The chances of ground water contamination are virtually nonexistent in
>most areas, as most groundwater comes from well below where the salt is
>present. Even if there was some mixing, it would happen at such a slow
>rate that it would take a test lab to even measure the miniscule increase.
> Since this is just salt, the amount the someone eats daily would be
>dramatically greater than what they could get from even the worst such
>contamination. Frankly, I would much rather have a neighbor using salt
>than extremely powerful herbicides, as some of these will not break down
>so fast once they get underground.
>

Youi should heed your own advice. From the Green Venture website:

In August 2000 Environment Canada completed a five-year study of the
effects of road salt on the environment. They concluded that road
salts (sodium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride,
magnesium chloride, and ferrocyanide salts) are toxic to the
environment, particularly in large concentrations. In the United
States, deicing salt is considered a possible pollutant under the
National Pollutant Discharge Elimination System (NPDES).

The heavy use of road salts can lead to damage to vegetation, to
organisms in soil, to birds, and to other wildlife. Almost all
chloride ions from road salts eventually find their way into
waterways, whether by direct run-off into surface water or by moving
through the soil and groundwater. In surface water, road salts can
harm freshwater plants, fish, and other organisms that are not adapted
to living in saline waters.

But it doesn't stop there — road salts also threaten drinking water
security. For example, the region of Waterloo has found chloride
levels in its municipal water wells as high as 233mg/L, close to the
unsafe level of 250mg/L set by the Ministry of the Environment.

Because most ice melters contain salt, they can also injure pets and
children. Doctors and veterinarians routinely treat cases of poisoning
and painful skin and jaw lesions that are caused by these salt
deicers. Animals can be poisoned when they lick ice-melting products
off their feet, so be sure to use a damp towel to wipe your pet's paws
and underside after being outside.


I happen to live in the region of Waterloo - in the middle of the
central antario "rust belt"
>I've just recently joined this forum thinking it would be helpful for
>those of us actually trying to solve real problems, but it seems there are
>a lot of trolls here who want to argue more than solving them. Guess I'll
>drop this tool as broken.

To kill running bamboos - from the Royal Hortacultural; Society web
page:

•With very tall bamboos, which can be difficult to spray, cut down
canes to soil level in late winter and then apply a glyphosate-based
weedkiller (e.g. Scotts Roundup Ultra 3000, Scotts Tumbleweed, Bayer
Tough Rootkill, Bayer Garden Super Strength Weedkiller or Doff Maxi
Strength Glyphosate Weedkiller) to the young growth in late spring and
early summer. Several treatments may be needed
•Alternatively, cut canes to ground and treat with a stump and root
killer containing glyphosate (e.g. Scotts Roundup Tree Stump &
Rootkiller, Bayer Tree Stump Killer, Doff Tree Stump & Tough
Weedkiller and William Sinclair Deep Root Ultra Tree Stump &
Weedkiller) or triclopyr (Vitax SBK Brushwood Killer). Treat foliage
of any regrowth

When a new shoot is "aborted" - by cutting it off, kicking it off, or
by whatever other means it will not resprout. Diligent attention
during the early growing season is the easiest and most effective
method of controlling the growth and spread of even the most invasive
and hardy bamboos. Cutting off and removing ryzomes within the area
you want to contain the bamboo growth is advised.
You can throw the sprouts you "abort" into your stir-fry.


Harry K

unread,
Dec 25, 2014, 11:12:25 AM12/25/14
to
> But it doesn't stop there -- road salts also threaten drinking water
> security. For example, the region of Waterloo has found chloride
> levels in its municipal water wells as high as 233mg/L, close to the
> unsafe level of 250mg/L set by the Ministry of the Environment.
>
> Because most ice melters contain salt, they can also injure pets and
> children. Doctors and veterinarians routinely treat cases of poisoning
> and painful skin and jaw lesions that are caused by these salt
> deicers. Animals can be poisoned when they lick ice-melting products
> off their feet, so be sure to use a damp towel to wipe your pet's paws
> and underside after being outside.
>
>
> I happen to live in the region of Waterloo - in the middle of the
> central antario "rust belt"
> >I've just recently joined this forum thinking it would be helpful for
> >those of us actually trying to solve real problems, but it seems there are
> >a lot of trolls here who want to argue more than solving them. Guess I'll
> >drop this tool as broken.
>
> To kill running bamboos - from the Royal Hortacultural; Society web
> page:
>
> *With very tall bamboos, which can be difficult to spray, cut down
> canes to soil level in late winter and then apply a glyphosate-based
> weedkiller (e.g. Scotts Roundup Ultra 3000, Scotts Tumbleweed, Bayer
> Tough Rootkill, Bayer Garden Super Strength Weedkiller or Doff Maxi
> Strength Glyphosate Weedkiller) to the young growth in late spring and
> early summer. Several treatments may be needed
> *Alternatively, cut canes to ground and treat with a stump and root
> killer containing glyphosate (e.g. Scotts Roundup Tree Stump &
> Rootkiller, Bayer Tree Stump Killer, Doff Tree Stump & Tough
> Weedkiller and William Sinclair Deep Root Ultra Tree Stump &
> Weedkiller) or triclopyr (Vitax SBK Brushwood Killer). Treat foliage
> of any regrowth
>
> When a new shoot is "aborted" - by cutting it off, kicking it off, or
> by whatever other means it will not resprout. Diligent attention
> during the early growing season is the easiest and most effective
> method of controlling the growth and spread of even the most invasive
> and hardy bamboos. Cutting off and removing ryzomes within the area
> you want to contain the bamboo growth is advised.
> You can throw the sprouts you "abort" into your stir-fry.

Quite correct. The key is repeated applications on any new shoots seen. It took me about 4 years of diligent patrolling to finally kill the last shoots of a Black Locust (they have a bad 'copsing' habit).

Anyone advocating mass applications of salt has rocks in his head.

Harry K

bob haller

unread,
Dec 25, 2014, 3:10:21 PM12/25/14
to
well theoceans are full of salt that orignally came from the land, cleveland ohio has a huge salt mine under lake erie.

it not like apply salt will end the world, sometimes the solution to pollution is diulation

BillN

unread,
Dec 25, 2014, 3:44:04 PM12/25/14
to
replying to clare , BillN wrote:
What you are using are arguments based on mass scale road salting, which
do not apply to HOMEOWNERS salting individual bands of bamboo. For us,
the usual supply of road salt in the USA are the bags of “ice melt”
found in hardware stores, which TYPICALLY contain additives to inhibit
plant damage, or use “alternative salts” (other than sodium chloride)
with inherently lower plant impact. This is not for environmental
reasons, but simply to reduce plant damage for homeowners wanting to salt
their driveways and sidewalks. Examples are the mass market ice melts
found in Lowes and Home Depot, Grainger’s ice melts, Ace Hardware’s,
etc.. All I was doing in my original post was to helpfully inform folks
to watch out for these, buying instead the pure rock salt products that
are also available.

Yes it has been known for years that nationwide road salting has increased
the salt content in ground water to undesirable levels in places. This is
why some authorities have switched to alternatives. We could have a
protracted debate as to how widespread this practice has become, but it
would be pointless for the problem at hand. Most of us will get our salt
from the hardware stores. If a homeowner does deem it more cost effective
to buy a truckload of road salt from the same supplier that the
authorities use (if they would even sell it individually), he would be a
fool not to at least check that they are still using just rock salt.

Stands of bamboo are rare enough that if ALL the bamboo were salted
nationwide AT ONCE, the amount of salt that would end up in the water
table would be MINISCULE compared to even one year of nationwide road
salting. And this would happen only ONCE, whereas road salting happens
year after year. So it is not even worth discussing the overall
environmental impact of homeowners salting their bamboo. Again, the
amount of salt getting into a neighbors well by salting an isolated 1 or 2
acres of bamboo, would be so miniscule (under almost any circumstance) as
to be virtually undetectable.

As far as herbicides, our landscaper has a masters in horticulture and 30
years experience, including treating bamboo several times using the same
methods as the research you quoted. That’s just what he did for our
bamboo, for TWO YEARS. Well, IT DID NOT WORK!!! Why? Because there are
THOUSANDS of different bamboo species (there are even 10 different genus),
and so what worked on the few species that the research covers did not
work for what we had. So, WE SPENT THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS FOR NOTHING!!!
He finally then used SALT as the last alternative. Salt is a lot cheaper
than professional herbicides that require hiring a licensed professional
to even purchase and apply. But he did not want to kill off a 1/2 acre
sized area in our grassy meadow for years, which is why he tried the
herbicide first. Dang it, I wish he had asked us first, since we’ve got
no problem with only grasses growing in those spots for a while, and after
all we are talking about a “grassy meadow”. So anyone who thinks they
are going to kill off deeply rooted bamboo themselves with only the stuff
they can get at hardware stores, are simply delusional.

All the theory in the world is no substitute for practical experience. So
I’ve spent hours of my time fighting off folks with no practical
experience in this problem, so the poor folks who have to actually deal
with it don’t get buried in a mountain of BS. For all the trolls here
who seem honor bound to kibitz, when someone pipes in who has actually
solved a problem, LISTEN, don’t talk. I'm done with this except to
answer questions from folks who actually need to treat a stand of bamboo.
Otherwise don't expect me to waste another second of my time defending my
reporting of what actually worked (just ignore the crap folks).



--


cl...@snyder.on.ca

unread,
Dec 25, 2014, 4:18:55 PM12/25/14
to
On Thu, 25 Dec 2014 08:12:20 -0800 (PST), Harry K <tur...@q.com>
wrote:
And should possibly have a good dose of rocksalt applied to his rear
end coutesy of a 12 guage

BillN

unread,
Dec 25, 2014, 5:44:05 PM12/25/14
to
replying to Harry K , BillN wrote:
> turnkey wrote:
>
> Quite correct. The key is repeated applications on any new shoots seen.
It
took me about 4 years of diligent patrolling to finally kill the last
shoots
of a Black Locust (they have a bad 'copsing' habit).
> Anyone advocating mass applications of salt has rocks in his head.
> Harry K


Black Locust isn't even bamboo you horses a**.

--


BillN

unread,
Dec 25, 2014, 5:44:05 PM12/25/14
to
replying to bob haller , BillN wrote:
> hallerb wrote:
>
> well theoceans are full of salt that orignally came from the land,
cleveland
ohio has a huge salt mine under lake erie.
> it not like apply salt will end the world, sometimes the solution to
pollution is diulation


Here here! Thanks Bob.

--


BillN

unread,
Dec 25, 2014, 5:44:05 PM12/25/14
to
replying to clare , BillN wrote:
> clare wrote:
>
> On Thu, 25 Dec 2014 08:12:20 -0800 (PST), Harry K <tur...@q.com>
> And should possibly have a good dose of rocksalt applied to his rear
> end coutesy of a 12 guage


hahahaha.......Ouch!

--


patrick...@gmail.com

unread,
Dec 26, 2014, 12:28:36 PM12/26/14
to
Hi Elliott - I came across this thread while researching how to get rid of about 1.5 acres of bamboo in Louisiana. I wanted to see if you found success here. Any advice?

patric...@gmail.com

Thanks,

Patrick Lynch

On Monday, February 6, 2012 12:58:15 PM UTC-6, Elliott Plack wrote:
> On Feb 6, 12:06 pm, mj <mjcicca...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On Feb 6, 11:54 am, Elliott P <elliott.pl...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
> > > stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
> > > *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
> > > stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
> > > dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
> > > allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
> > > restore the property, inside and out.
> >
> > > Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
> > > this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
> > > with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
> > > commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
> > > can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
> > > would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.
> >
> > > The property is in Towson, Maryland.
> >
> > > Thank you in advance.
> >
> > Can you burn it?
> > MJ
>
> MJ, burning it is probably not an option in this suburban location as
> it is too close to nearby homes and other woods.

Harry K

unread,
Dec 26, 2014, 12:36:11 PM12/26/14
to
But the process is identical. You gotta kill the roots and that is what RU type stuff does. Your recent example of trying it for two years! Of course it failed. It takes many years of patrolling, not a half assed 2 year attempt.

By now you should be doing something about that stupidity attack you are having.

Harry K

BillN

unread,
Dec 26, 2014, 12:44:04 PM12/26/14
to
replying to Elliott P , BillN wrote:
> elliott.plack wrote:
>
> Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
> stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
> *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
> stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
> dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
> allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
> restore the property, inside and out.
> Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
> this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
> with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
> commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
> can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
> would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.
> The property is in Towson, Maryland.
> Thank you in advance.


I've been scouring the internet for anything about killing bamboo, and it
is very clear from hundreds of examples that any method other than salting
is both very labor intensive and expensive, and in the end usually doesn't
work. The forums are riddled with stories from poor souls who think they
have killed it off after killing themselves to get rid of it, only to have
it return in a year or two. Folks using heavy salting though have had
good success (only the folks that were wimpy about it have failed).

The discussions group bamboo into two basic categories, "clumping" and
"running". Everyone agrees the really bad type is the "running", which
has rhizomes (roots) that fan out in all directions as far as 2 feet
underground. As is found again and again, killing the stalks with even
the most powerful herbicides does NOT usually kill off the rhizomes.
Indeed, what happens when you hit a stand of running bamboo with anything
(digging, chopping, herbicides, burning, covering with plastic etc.), the
rhizomes go shooting off in all directions as a protection mechanism. So
basically all you do using the "non-salt" techniques is "piss it off",
making it come back with a fury down the line. Some experts recommend
digging a deep trench (2 feet) around the stand to cut off its escape, but
this is very expensive for the large stands we are talking about here, and
again folks have found this may or may not work (the rhizomes go under or
across if they have to, or just wait in place and grow new stalks later).
The "old hands" at these forums (who have dealt with bamboo a lot) scoff
at the techniques put forward by the so called "experts" (horticulturists
and academic researchers), pointing out that commonly rhizomes will
survive for years underground, only to grow new stalks in new places.

Yes some folks have met with success using the non-salt techniques, but
usually for small stands (say 10 x 10 ft or smaller) where they can
concentrate a lot of effort conveniently and at low cost. But even for
small stands, the forums give story after story of long term failure (they
think they got it at first, only to come back in two years and report that
now it’s everywhere). But for the big stands (what we are talking about
here, say 1/2 acre or larger), the stories using non-salt techniques sound
like nightmares, with people waging exhausting and expensive multi-year
wars that they lose half the time (and as the old timers point out, the so
called "winners" are usually fooling themselves, cause it will usually
come back).

So WHY, WHY, WHY kill and bankrupt yourself. The non-salt techniques are
usually only practical for small stands anyway. Stop being some tree
hugging environmentalist and just SALT that puppy. KILL IT. KILL IT NOW,
before it has a chance to multiply. Use LOTS of salt, it’s cheap and
easy. Salt a 10 foot wide perimeter around it to prevent its escape, its
cheap and easy. (Might want to do this about a month before salting the
stand itself to already have a deep and wide barrier set up, and then salt
the perimeter again when salting the stand). I’d say we used about 3
lbs per square yard.

Don't worry, grasses will start growing back in about a year, and you can
likely plant shrubs and trees a few years after that (remember, new
plantings will have their own fresh soil to grow in for a while, so by the
time their roots reach the old soil, the salt will be pretty washed out).
We have a beautiful Maple tree in the middle of the salt area, so we used
a half dosing around the root area. It was shocked initially (leaves
turned and dropped like it was fall), but it bounced back. Evidently, it
has enough deep roots below the salt to do fine, and likely the salt will
dissipate before it ever reaches them. It’s realistically going to take
two or more years to clear a stand using a non-salt technique, so you
won’t be able to grow ANYTHING for at least two years. At least with
salting grasses will start in about a year.

So all I can say now to folks trying to kill large stands of bamboo
without salt is … “heaven help you”.

--


Pico Rico

unread,
Dec 26, 2014, 12:57:32 PM12/26/14
to

"BillN" <caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote in message
news:19513$549d9e61$cf3aab60$27...@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
> without salt is . "heaven help you".
>

you are taking the entirely wrong approach:

http://sunsetbamboo101.com/wp-content/gallery/bamboo-tiki-huts/bamboo-hut-6.jpg


BillN

unread,
Dec 26, 2014, 6:44:04 PM12/26/14
to
replying to Pico Rico , BillN wrote:
> PicoRico wrote:
>
> "BillN" <caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote in
message

> news:19513$549d9e61$cf3aab60$27...@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
hehe.....Wish I had seen that sooner.

--


lwu...@learnwithuniversalmind.com

unread,
Apr 22, 2015, 10:44:14 AM4/22/15
to
Hello Elliott,

I'm an environmentalist. I were you i would keep it but restrain them to grow larger if you do not want more of your property be covered by bamboo. I'm thinking to experiment using bamboo in house building and may be able to help clear them if they are suitable for construction, but would also need funds to start the experiment. So if you like you can keep in touch with me. Thanks

Dan Espen

unread,
Apr 22, 2015, 11:47:14 AM4/22/15
to
Original post in 2012.

If you weren't using Google Groups to access Usenet, this kind of stuff
would not happen.

--
Dan Espen

Bamboointhepark

unread,
Jun 10, 2017, 9:44:05 PM6/10/17
to
replying to Bill N, Bamboointhepark wrote:
Bill, I have a bamboo issue in Severna Park. No standing bamboo on my
property, just traveling rhizomes. Do you feel the salt treatment would be
effective in killing those?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/removing-1-5-acres-of-bamboo-in-towson-md-683585-.htm


mr.go...@gmail.com

unread,
Mar 25, 2018, 9:15:16 PM3/25/18
to
On Monday, February 6, 2012 at 11:54:09 AM UTC-5, Elliott Plack wrote:
> Greetings all. A new property of my family's is covered by a massive
> stand of running bamboo. The lot is six acres rectangular, where about
> *one and a half* acres of the total acreage is covered by a very dense
> stand of running bamboo. It is 350 feet long deep at its longest
> dimension The plants have been there for decades, as the property was
> allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. It is our intention to
> restore the property, inside and out.
>
> Options for removal I've seen generally target small areas. However
> this is a much bigger problem! My first thought is to hire someone
> with a bulldozer to come push it all down, and then put it all in a
> commercial wood chipper. This could get expensive though. What else
> can we do? What problems does my scenario present? Hiring a panda bear
> would probably not go over well with the neighborhood.
>
> The property is in Towson, Maryland.
>
> Thank you in advance.

Is this post dead? I'd be interested in quite a lot of this bamboo if it's still available.

Tekkie®

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Mar 30, 2018, 3:16:41 PM3/30/18
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mr.go...@gmail.com posted for all of us...
No you wouldn't.

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Tekkie

Mary K.

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May 7, 2018, 8:14:07 AM5/7/18
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replying to BillN, Mary K. wrote:
Hi Bill N., I see your post is over 4 years old, so I wonder if you or anyone
will see my post now. I live in Maryland and we have a stand of bamboo 20ft
tall on neighbor property at edge of our property at fence. We have been
stomping it down as it shoots up for years next to our driveway and near our
garage. It causes a real mess from droppings on our side and on our vehicles.
Now I understand the roots which seem as hard as steel to try and cut, I'm
afraid for our foundation of garage and house. I've read the roots can hurt
the foundation of buildings. So my question is what to do. I'm trying to get
neighbors to understand the problem. So I think you are saying the solution
is to cut it all down and apply large amounts of plain salt. My question is
the roots have spread further out than the stand and I think under
ourdriveway. So will salt kill all roots?

BurfordTJustice

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May 7, 2018, 8:24:02 AM5/7/18
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Stand by google will be back on line shortly.






"Mary K." <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote in
message news:eqXHC.207411$nr7.2...@fx31.am4...
:
:


shms0615

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Mar 4, 2023, 12:01:51 AM3/4/23
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Just want you to know I appreciate your post and I'm gonna try it myself 🤗

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For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/removing-1-5-acres-of-bamboo-in-towson-md-683585-.htm

micky

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Mar 4, 2023, 12:54:37 AM3/4/23
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In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 04 Mar 2023 05:01:44 +0000, shms0615
<5ac098ac71dc3f54...@example.com> wrote:

>Just want you to know I appreciate your post and I'm gonna try it myself ?

I used to go to an annual summer party just north of Towson, given by
the local president of the ACLU. That was 30 years ago and the stand
was about 10 feet by 20 feet. By now it could easily have grown to 1.5
acres, but I don't think the yard was big enough that they would have
allowed it. I think the whole property was a lot less than 1.5 acres.

I like the idea of hiring a farmer, before it's time to work on his own
farm. Or renting something a little smaller. I think you could cut it
down yourself in less than 2 days.

What would you do with what is cut? Does it make firewood. You could
bundle it up, print some cardboard wrappers and call it FireOO. It will
sell like crazy. But let's forget that idea.

What happens if after you cut it, you plow the area, using the same
tractor, either the farmer's or the rental? Is that enough to keep most
of it from growning back? What if you plant something that will be
more likely to grow than the bamboo. Corn? You can get rid of the new
crop later and plant grass. But I'm just guessing. No experience.

I don't like the idea of herbicide either , but if the decription given
of Sodium TCA is uncontradicted, it doesn't sound bad. Or some similar
product. Whoever recommended it, would spraying with that stuff make
the current bamboo fall over dead? Or at least be easier to knock over.

What about a chainsaw? What about making a bracket to mount a chainsaw
firmly on a little red wagon and just pull it along. Even an electric
one with a 100' extension cord. That's what I use for my lawnmower and
it doesn't slow down the motor. Once the bamboo is only a foot high,
it will be easier to spray the herbicide.


What about renting a mini-excavator (they deliver) and digging up the
roots too.


I think the panda would go over well but I'm not sure he would eat the
woody parts. Don't they like just the tender leaves and attached stems?
You can go to the National Zoo and get more information there, or just
watch the panda that lives there.


People told me not to let ivy run rampant on my lawn and house but I
thought it was pretty. Now I have a problem, smaller but something like
yours.
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