Check Engine Light 1993 325i
Bob Long
First if anyone can give me some help. I'll be bringing the car into
the dealer Mon but thought maybe I could figure out what was wrong
before that. Check Engine Light is staying on. Oil and all checks out
ok. Comp says all ok.
The only thing I can think is when I changed the oil I didn't reset
the Oil change lights on the cluster, because I'm not sure how.
Could this be causing the idot light to go on?
and if anyone knows how to reset the oil change lights I'd appriciate
it greatly.
Thanks
Bob Long
James M. Blaschak
If you don't have the BMW scan tool, (doesn't EVERYBODY have a DIS
tester in their garage and a MoDiC II in the glove compartment??? :-))
you can retrieve the code that is causing the light by turning the
ignition to ON (don't start the engine) and pressing the accelerator to
the floor five times within five seconds. Count the number of times the
CHECK ENGINE light flashes between the pauses. After the longest pause,
the code will start over. It should be a four digit number. That's
where you can start your diagnosis. I'm sure somebody in this newsgroup
has a list of DME flash codes for your engine.
Note: Newer versions of the DME do not support retrieval of the flash
codes. I don't know precisely when they stopped supporting flash codes,
but I'm reasonably certain your DME does.
Not resetting your service lights won't light up the MIL (check engine
light).
You didn't mention any driveability symptoms, so all of us (in this NG)
are assuming that your car starts and runs well, with the expected
performance and fuel economy.
-Jim
Felix Loo
Check your gas tank cover to see if it's securely tightened. I don't
know why but it said so in the owner's manual and I've got this trouble
once.
You can't reset the oil change light without the OEM reset tools. It
costs over couple of hunders if you want to buy it.
Felix
Walter Kay
Reset oil lights with a plug-in device to the engine diagnostic connector.
These are available from many sources check for ads in auto speciality
magazines, especially BMW Roundel, they generally cost about $50. Very
easy to use.
Bob Long <rl...@epix.net> wrote in article
<34f764e4....@news.epix.net>...
richard van de Ven
Dear Bob,
Have not got the flashing codes for your check engine light at hand, but
you can find them at
http://cbsgi1.bu.edu/bmw/motronic.html
Please find below a story on the service interval lights, which explains
what you are looking for. In case you have any questions, please let me
know.
Best regards,
Richard van de Ven
Richard.v...@TIP.NL
The Service Indicator Lights
The service indicator lights are reset through a pin in the diagnostic
connector located in the engine compartment. There are 2 types of
diagnostic connectors used on BMWs. One is a 15 pin connector used on 1987
and earlier cars, the other is a 20 pin connector used on 1987-on cars. In
what follows the 15 pin connector is referred to as the early type and the
20 pin as the late type. Resetting the service indicator lights is
described below.
Resetting the service indicator lights.
Late type connector:
The service indicator lights are reset by connecting pin 7 to pin
19(ground). The proper way to do this is to have the ignition off and place
a jumper wire between pins 7 and 19 (make sure you get the right pins!).
Then turn the ignition switch to position 2 (run, NOT start), when the
service light goes out, turn the ignition off. This should take a few
seconds for an oil reset, 8-10 seconds for an inspection reset. All green
lights should come on when the service light goes out. The difference
between resetting the oil service light and the inspection light is in the
length of time you have the jumper in place with the ignition on. This
means that if you are resetting the oil service light, you should turn off
the ignition immediately after the light goes out. If you leave the jumper
in too long with the ignition on, you will perform an inspection reset as
well and the next service indicator will come up as an oil service rather
than an inspection.
The service light reset tools that I have seen connect to 3 pins of the
diagnostic connector: pin 7,14 and 19. The connection to 14 is to power the
tool. The less sophisticated tool has only one switch that connects pin 7
to 19. While those pins are tied together a red LED blinks to measure time.
You count blinks and manually turn off the tool after the appropriate
number of counts for oil or inspection reset. The more sophisticated tool
has two switches, one for oil reset, one for inspection. It must have a
built in timer that jumps pin 7 to 19 for the correct time.
Notes on the latest model cars (93 on?):
(can someone please verify this?) It is claimed that the above procedure
doesnt quite work on the most recent model year cars. Instead of waiting
for the lights to go out, you have to disconnect the jumper between 7 and
19 while the ignition is still on.
THIS IS CORRECT
謬o reset OIL SERVICE, maintain the connection for approximately 3 seconds.
謬o reset INSPECTION, maintain the connection for approximately 12 seconds.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Early type connector:
The procedure is the same as above, but you jumper pin 7 (the service
indicator pin) to pin 1 (the ground pin).
The early type connector:
*******
**** ****
*** (10) ***
** (9) (11) ***
* *
* (2) *
* (8) (3) *
* *
* (7) *
* (1) *
* (4) *
* *
* (6) *
* (15) (5) *
* *
** (14) (12) ***
*** (13) ***
**** ****
*******
Diagnosis plug connections:
No. Terminal Designation
1 31 Ground
2 - -
3 - -
4 FT Temperature gauge
5 L Engin M10B18 Interfrator output for CO adjustment
Engin M30B34 Oxygen Sensor signal
6 A Diagnosis lead for SRS
7 SI Service indicator
8 P+ Position sender
9 S Shielding
10 P- Position sender
11 50 Starting pulse for starter
12 61 Alternator charge indicator
13 1 Ignition signal
14 30 battery +
15 15 Power supply for ignition
The late type connector:
** ***
**** ***** ****
*** (1) ***
** (12) (2) ***
* *
* (11) (20) (13) (3) *
* *
* (10) (19) (14) (4) *
* *
* (15) *
* (9) (18) (5) *
* (16) *
* (17) *
** (8) (6) **
** ***
*** (7) ***
**** ****
*******
>
>
>
Best regards,
Richard van de Ven
Richard.v...@TIP.NL
----------
> From: Marc Lamaison <lama...@home.com>
> Newsgroups: alt.autos.bmw
> Subject: Maintenance Light?
> Date: vrijdag 6 februari 1998 17:19
>
> Are they device sold to reset the maintenance lights on a 95 525i, I
> would like to do my own oil changes.
>
--
Best Regards,
Richard van de Ven
The Netherlands
e-mail: Richard.v...@TIP.NL
Retters
I have had a similar problem. The gas tank and crankcase vents into the intake
as far as I can tell. Any leakage amounts to an un-metered vacume leak. Mixture
is lean in this case. I suspect your code is 1222 which is oxygen sensor out of
range (lean or rich).
The advice to put the cas cap on tight is good as well as the oil filler cap
and the dipstick. Push down and turn instead of just turning to lock.
You might replace the seals on the dipstick and try new gas and oil caps (don't
know if new seals are available for those) before shelling out for a mechanic
to look at it.
For some reason, accelerating through a hard right turn would put out my light.
Good luck and let us know how it comes out...