Samsung U28H750 Installation pictures.

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ZisWorks

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Feb 3, 2019, 2:57:56 AM2/3/19
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Photo comments have instructions.

Miguel Del Barrio made an excellent video that covers the installation well (aside from repinning the button board cable).

EDIT:
Default mapping of the button functionality with Samsung button board:

CENTER ON/OFF
UP Bright+
DOWN Bright-
LEFT BL_Mode
RIGHT Crosshair
CENTER+UP EDID = 4k
CENTER+DOWN EDID = 360Hz
CENTER+LEFT EDID = 240Hz
CENTER+RIGHT EDID = 480Hz



3hi...@gmail.com

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Feb 15, 2019, 8:47:37 PM2/15/19
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Would it be possible to have a video showing the disassembly of the monitor?

ZisWorks

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Feb 16, 2019, 1:46:21 AM2/16/19
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Don't have a video to show it right now.  Just have a look at the pics beforehand, mark the clip locations with something (painters tape or some kind of sticker), and start opening it from either of the upper corners.  Be gentle and apply no force to the panel.  Do it on a completely clean table and avoid contact with the display part of the screen.

ZisWorks

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Feb 16, 2019, 1:51:16 AM2/16/19
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With the U28H750, the glass is not held against the panel with a seperate asembly, that function is handled by the front bezel.  When you disassemble the display, you are seperating the front bezel from the rear housing shell.  In doing this, you will free the panel glass.  Keep the front bezel, glass, and backlight assembly together as a single unit and remove the rear shell from this combined unit. 

Maarten te Molder

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Feb 16, 2019, 12:54:56 PM2/16/19
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Just lay it flat, face down on a solid surface. Use some old news paper to be able to slide it around without scratching the table or the monitor. When lifting it, grab it by the bezel and keep it in a face-down position. 

Miguel del Barrio

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Feb 23, 2019, 12:08:54 AM2/23/19
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https://imgur.com/a/uGHLWbs

Anything wrong on this? Can't get it to power.

The psu cable should be plugges into the backlight driver right?

ZisWorks

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Feb 23, 2019, 12:13:04 AM2/23/19
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Everything in the pic looks correct. Emailing my contact info.

Miguel del Barrio

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Feb 23, 2019, 5:56:20 PM2/23/19
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Hey cirthix, did you have any special instructions for usage of the samsung button board?

ZisWorks

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Feb 23, 2019, 6:13:13 PM2/23/19
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Updating original post with the default mapping.

admin

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Apr 3, 2019, 9:40:45 AM4/3/19
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I'm about to install the kit into the Samsung UH750.  I have both the Siig and Startec HDMI to DP adapters.  Anything I need to know before proceeding?

admin

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Apr 3, 2019, 11:15:50 AM4/3/19
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Okay, a few things:

- The PSU from the Samsung monitor won't fit.  There was a power cable in the kit.  What should I do with that?  Hook it to a PicoPSU?  Cut the end off the Samsung PSU and sire that in?

- Some industrial-strength double-sided tape seemed to do a perfect job mounting the power board.  It's isolated and really secure.  Any reason why someone would use the cardboard mount method over that?

- Did I align the panel's power connector correctly?

- The instructions say to remove the original stand mount, but that doesn't appear to interfere at all.
2019-04-03 11.03.26.jpg
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2019-04-03 11.09.53.jpg

ZisWorks

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Apr 3, 2019, 2:20:31 PM4/3/19
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Hi,
If you want to use startech hdmi to dp adapter, you need to enable the CEC block in EDID. This is a flash of the arduino on the tcon. SIIG does not need any changes to the zisworks hardware, but go to SIIG's support page and do the firmware update for the adapter.

For mounting backlight board, that is an option. Try to leave an airgap under the heat producing chips (the output diode, switch fet, and TI chip.

Removing the atand was a personal preference, though making a hole in the housing underneath the tcon will help if you have a hot room.

No, the samsung power supply is 19v and will fry thr tcon. Plug the included cable into your computer power supply using the common 6pin pcie power plug normally used for graphics cards.

The 2x5pin connection to backlight is backwards. No harm will come of this, but it wont work either.

admin

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Apr 3, 2019, 3:57:32 PM4/3/19
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Thanks for the reply.  It's not working though.  When I plug it in, the power button lights flashes for a second.  Then, if I press the power button, I get a flashing green light on the main board, but then nothing else happens.  I've tried different cables and both 720p and 1080p sources.  I've also messed with the power button and I can't get anything on-screen at all.

A few things:

- Can you post a link to a cheap programmer I can use to update the firmware?

- I updated the Siig adapter with this firmware:  https://www.siig.com/download/search/?keyword=ce-h22z11-s1

- This monitor won't be used with a PC, so I'll just use this PSU - It's also a 12v, center positive conenctor and the barrel fits perfectly:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GGMD5J

- Thanks, I turned the corrector around.


2019-04-03 15.56.50.jpg
2019-04-03 15.56.55.jpg

ZisWorks

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Apr 3, 2019, 4:09:40 PM4/3/19
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There is a programmer being shipped around, post in the other thread to get it next. I think Layla has it now. For microcontroller update, only need a 3.3v uart / serial port. Given your channel, you probably have one already.

Can you plug it into a PC with native displayport connection to try that first.

I got the blinking behavior before updating SIIG firmware and also when feeding the SIIG a signal that it wasnt happy with.

ZisWorks

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Apr 3, 2019, 4:14:25 PM4/3/19
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The SIIG has three firmwares, did you get them all?

The linked power supply is really overkill, but should be fine.

admin

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Apr 3, 2019, 4:47:30 PM4/3/19
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I tried direct into a PC with two different DP cables and I tried both inputs - The backlight won't even come on at all.  Yes, I did test the monitor before installing the kit :)

On the PC itself, it detected the kit, but freaked out a bit when I tried to change settings; It kept dropping connection.

Do I have anything plugged in wrong?  I mean, this all seemed really easy...
2019-04-03 16.38.02.jpg
2019-04-03 16.38.10.jpg
2019-04-03 16.38.34.jpg

ZisWorks

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Apr 3, 2019, 5:54:07 PM4/3/19
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Try single input mode (push button down and then to the left, then release), try a different displayport cable, and toggle the power button to make sure it is on. If that doesnt work, lets do a quick videocall.

Miguel del Barrio

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Jun 11, 2019, 10:44:40 PM6/11/19
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Made a video that might be good for anyone who wants to see a little more of what's involved.

ZisWorks

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Jun 17, 2019, 6:18:56 AM6/17/19
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Added the video to OP.

hanetzer

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Dec 7, 2019, 10:35:54 AM12/7/19
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Ok, quick question. I just purchased a pair of U28H750s from newegg and will eventually be buying the kit.
However, sometimes manufacturers may silently change the components used in a given product without
declaring it to be a new revision or whatnot. Is there any way to check 100% that a given 'U28H750' is able
to use the kit?

If I understand it correctly the only parts you need from the original monitor is the display, the case, and the
little joystick control thing right? So if they changed any of the other pcbs it won't matter for our purposes?

ZisWorks

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Dec 7, 2019, 4:11:07 PM12/7/19
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The only variations that I've seen are power brick and labeling ones, neither matters for modding.
Message has been deleted

retr...@gmail.com

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May 26, 2020, 1:37:18 PM5/26/20
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Has anyone here run into an issue where the "Brightness Up" button doesn't work?  I tried emailing Zis, but as usual, he's not responding.

ZisWorks

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May 26, 2020, 2:00:17 PM5/26/20
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You emailed at 1140AM on Saturday of a 3day weekend and call me out publicly for not emailing back by 1040am on the first working day after the weekend?


Brightness up not working :
Is it stuck in strobing/scanning mode?  The brightness adjustment range in those modes is not all that large, so it might seem that it can't get brighter.  Toggle joystick left to swap between backlight modes.  Each backlight mode has it's own brightness setting.
I've seen instances where the button board got smashed and one of the directional buttons stopped working.  

retr...@gmail.com

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May 26, 2020, 4:10:44 PM5/26/20
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Sorry, I must have been hungry and grumpy...and I totally forgot it was a holiday weekend ;/

On a lighter note, Zis helped me get it fixed and it was SUPER easy:  If this happens to any of you, just re-flow the button!  I disassembled it, re-soldered the connection points all across the button and everything its working fine again.

SamsungButton2.jpg

SamsungButton1.jpg


The whole fix took 5 min start to finish!


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