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Basilio Jarvis
I would leave the window alone. Aluminum windows are typically electro statically painted in a controlled environment when they were originally built at the factory. This environment includes air cleaners, pressure sprayers, heat/infrared curing ovens and lots of air handling equipment (large fans). This controlled environment leaves your aluminum windows looking like brand new car paint finishes. It is nearly impossible to replicate such an environment in the field at your home thus leaving many people with unhappy results when they try to repaint aluminum windows after they have been installed. The weather effects and pitting you describe make this process almost impossible. I believe you will be in for a lot of work and frustration and not happy with your end result if you try such a task.
Aluminum windows are not energy efficient and they are noisy. If the window is more than 10 years old, replace it with an energy star rated vinyl window that has bronze outside/white inside. It will look better, be quieter and the energy savings will pay you back in a very short time.
I have seen it done and seen the paint last if cleaning is thorough and the proper paint is used but the first answer is true. You won't replicate a factory finish and it is nore difficult to do than a wood window. The paint finish won't look as good but from a short distance its ussually not noticeable. We use alcohol to clean surfaces prior to painting to get a good clean surface. With metal the temperature needs to be ideal also. Not too hot, not too cold.
And C. There is something less charming about all the diamond patterns in the new windows downstairs, almost competing too much with the second-floor original diamond pattern. We decided to let the original be the stars of the upper floor and simplify the first floor to be supporting characters.
Indeed. Not only is the subject generally fascinating to me (YMMV, I like the nuts and bolts of home construction), I *also* have awful no-good terrible very bad single-paned aluminum windows from the 60s that need to have something done to them so we can stop leaking warm/cool air like a sieve the year-round.
I am definitely in for a post on insulation. I have read that one of easiest ways for households to reduce their carbon footprints and bring down heating bill costs is through better insulation. Any advice on how to do this would be very welcome!
I was just coming here to also talk about indows! We have single-panes AND single sash bungalow windows that go down into the wall below in our Monrovia house and are looking at indows once we unstick and replace the weights on them.
Have you looked into Indow Windows at all for upstairs? I have beautiful casement windows in my front room and was able to preserve them/insulate the room by adding Indows. Big fan of them and so much cheaper than most of the options above. Esp for upstairs/seasonal use, they could be a great solve.
I replaced all the windows in my 1922 brick bungalow except the front two, which I kept and restored for historical integrity. They were drafty and mostly broken, so it make sense to replace with energy efficient ones, but keeping the ones facing the street was important to me!
This sounds like a fabulous, measured plan. I am excited to see the restored windows and the new ones you chose to integrate with them as I am about to build an addition where I have the conundrum of old windows and new on the same rear facade. And I too vote for a post about insulation.
Yes to a post about insulation. Please add information about the importance of installing mechanical ventilation (HRV or ERV) in tight homes. Important part of the HVAC system in creating a healthy and comfortable home.
Hi! Can you please share the link to the safety film? We absolutely should have done that in our 1906 house (had we known about it before moving) and I bet tons of other people could use it. Thank you!
Could you work with a local artist to create stained glass window hangings from them? Either to use somewhere you want more privacy (bathroom or bedroom window), one of the out buildings, and gift the excess to the artist or friends and family.
Do you want windows that open and close smoothly and are tight against drafts? Our on-site services restore smooth operation to your windows by replacing broken sash cords, freeing windows that have been bound up in paint, and installing effective and permanent true-to-era weatherstripping.
Some deferred maintenance is most cost effective to address from the exterior with your windows in place. We offer limited seasonal exterior services to address some repairs efficiently while keeping project costs down.
Do your windows need a combination of interior and exterior improvements, including interior refinishing? When simple on-site solutions aren't enough, we assess windows for full and partial restoration. These projects bring your windows back to the full functionality and clean look they had when they were new, with optional energy-efficiency upgrades.
Storm windows play a crucial role in optimizing your window system. By complementing your primary windows, they create a double-glazed result, offering the original double-paned window solution. These additional windows act as a protective barrier against the elements, effectively safeguarding your primary windows. They extend the maintenance cycle, reducing the need for frequent upkeep.
We guide homeowners on the path of old home stewardship by offering lasting and affordable options for original window maintenance. We are a team with a passion for old houses and the preservation trade skills needed to restore their original charm.
The first thing that you should keep in mind when trying to figure out if you want to keep your original windows is whether they are even salvageable. With some old homes, the materials that were used to build them might not be able to stand the test of time. For example, a lot of old windows built with just wood can rot after a decade or two. This means that you could possibly save the windowpane, but not the wooden panels. When trying to determine if your windows are salvageable, look at:
To request your free estimate for window and door repair, replacement or restoration, simply provide your details below. An Exteriors by Window Makeover representative will contact you shortly to schedule a time for one of our experts to visit and assess your home.
Number of rooms: There are a total of forty-three rooms in the entire structure: thirty-three in the house itself (cellar, twelve; first floor, eleven; second floor, six; third floor, four); four in the pavilions; and six under the South Terrace. The stable and carriage bays under the North Terrace are not included in these totals. The first design of Monticello had fourteen rooms total (cellar, six; first floor, five; second floor, three). [top]
Thickness of exterior walls: Also variable, from 13.5" at the northeast front to 27" in the parlor side walls. Most of the exterior of the house is covered by red brick with limestone mortar. [top]
When was the house built? Construction began in 1769 according to Jefferson's first design, which was completed (except for porticoes and decorative interior woodwork) when he left for Europe in 1784. Work on a new design for remodeling and enlarging the house began in 1796 and was complete by 1809. [top]
Where did the building materials come from? The bricks and nails were made by enslaved workers at Monticello. Most of the structural timber came from Jefferson's own land, while most of the window sashes were made in Philadelphia of imported mahogany. The window glass came from Europe. Stone for the cellars and the East Front columns, and limestone for making mortar, were quarried on Jefferson's land. [top]
Who built the house? Local white masons and their enslaved apprentices did the stone and brickwork. A combination of free white and enslaved carpenters framed the house and its structural woodwork. Skilled free white and enslaved joiners fashioned and installed the fine woodwork (floors, cornices, and other moldings). Enslaved joiner John Hemmings, who trained under James Dinsmore, a master joiner from Philadelphia, became Monticello's head joiner in 1809. [top]
How much did the house cost? No one so far has managed to calculate the cost of Monticello with any degree of accuracy. We do, however, know several dollar figures, which are provided below:
Taking the figure of $3,587.92, just as an example, and multiplying that by the number of years it took to complete Monticello (28), the total building cost would be $100,461.76. However, there are many variables unaccounted for in this calculation and thus it likely represents only a fraction of the true cost of constructing Monticello. For example, some of the building materials were purchased, and some were made by hand at Monticello; some materials and labor were not paid for with cash but were bartered; and the cost of food, clothing, and housing for enslaved workers is not factored into Jefferson's yearly estimates, either. A thorough examination of Jefferson's memorandum books might yield a more accurate estimate than the one above, but that estimate could probably not be considered a definitive figure.
Translating such a figure into today's money adds another layer of complication to this question. There is no easy way to make this calculation, although there are sources that can serve as guides in making the attempt (see Further Sources below). [top]
Which side is the front of the house? When most people think of Monticello, they envision the dome and west-facing, columned portico shown on the nickel. But the dome and West Portico are not, strictly speaking, the "front" of the house. In fact, Jefferson never spoke of a single "front." Instead he spoke of both an "east front" and a "west front." As in Jefferson's day, visitors today enter through the columned portico of the East Front into the Entrance Hall. Presumably only the family and their guests ever used the door on the West Front, which opens into the Parlor. [top]
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