Hand Grab
Sara Legath
Was just wondering if anyone could please help, I have free sketchup web based and late last year and early this year I was using to create a laundry sketch. I had completed that task and reno so have been of since probably Jan or Feb, well now I am wanting to sketchup a kitchen and I notice that I do not have the grab hand like I used to, I only have the arrow cursor.
Could someone please tell me has this been eliminated or is there a way I can get it back to use please? I prefer to use so I can reposition my drawing by dragging it with the hand, something I cannot do with the arrow.
And this one though using the grab component causes my hands to loose grip when switching from one to the other, and still does not work or snap to the sockets, I can still only use one hand at a time.
@JulienActiveMe
I hear that these things can be a little complicated.
Make sure to install the "Vive OpenXR ToolKit - Android" package as that is what adds support for the "selected" feature and you should then see the "Vive xr hand interaction"
With this is my understanding that we support the "selected" event (by way of a pinch gesture) using the openxr runtime at the moment. It is my understanding that additional hand gestures are in progress under the openxr hand gestures. I may be a bit behind on this and maybe @Tony PH Lin knows of any additional gestures supported by openxr in the xr interaction toolkit.
If you switch to our wave native hand gestures, there are some additional hand gestures documented here -us/UnityXR/UnityXRHand.html
@JulienActiveMe
On second thought,
Typically grab is implemented using physics - so setting up colliders/rigidbodies on the hand joints themselves - this is exposed by the openxr api itself and application level logic will dictact if there is a collision and/or grab
The deeper specifics of this device is on the ViveHandInteraction.cs file in the standard openxr plugin -- so make sure that the project is compiling as well, as otherwise this profile may not show up for you
I might give it a shot again in a few weeks when I get the time.
I'll let you know if I make progress.
If you get it working in the meantime,
would you please be kind enough to let me know how ?
Thank you!
I assume we are talking about metal grab irons. Some are shiny copper color and I dip them in a chemical blackener/patina darkener first. That also gives some good "tooth" for paint should you decide to do that.
A factory fresh freight car has nicely painted grabs (and stirrup steps) but they become grimy soon enough after they have been, well, grabbed a few times. I would not obsess about perfectly painting grab irons so long as you kill the unrealistic shine and gleam they have straight from the package.
If some color is appropriate the wax paper idea is a good one but I wonder if pushing a piece of wax paper would be like pushing string. I think very very thin plastic or stiff paper might be more practical, and even reusable. In my experience you only need to come reasonably close to the basic color of the car to be believable.
Frankly, I did not think I good do this. It went a lot better than I thought it would. It gives me the confidence to eventually do the grab irons on the Hiawatha passenger cars. I better do it sooner than later, because my eyesight gets worse very year. I hate growing old.
It looks like you can still get the template from Atlas. See -50591-ho-scale-grab-iron-drill-template.aspx. However, I found using a push pin to punch the hole first was all I needed to stop the drill bit from wondering.
Are you using straight bits where the diameter of the shank is the same as the drill bit, or are you using the bits with a 1/8" or 1/4" shank? If you are using the larger shank bits by hand that is likely why they are breaking. They are designed for use in precision drill presses where there is no wobble from side to side. If you are using them by hand, any deflection force caused by wobbling is concentrated at the point where the actual tip meets the larger shank and that is where they break.
I use the bits that don't have the larger shanks. I have found that I break very few drills if I chuck the bit so that very little of it is left sticking out of the pin vise. I leave just enough to get through the material that I am drilling and about 1/16" more so I can see the tip of the bit. Doing that leaves very little of the bit to flex so it stays on target better. If the bit is sticking out by 1/2" or more, there is a much greater tendancy for the shank to flex, and it is the uncontrolled flexing that usually causes the bits to break.
This r-t-r model of a Dominion-Fowler boxcar was offered by LifeLike Canada as a Proto1000 car, and had free-standing grabirons. However, the grabirons were moulded in acetal plastic, and looked to me to be overly thick, so I replaced them with custom-bent wire ones (like the real cars, they were a non-standard width).
Most of the cars were acquired either as new kits, or as partially-built kits that the original owner wasn't able to finish. As a result, many of the oversize grabs had never been installed, and for those, I first enlarged the holes to accept a stock diameter of Evergreen styrene rod, in order to provide for a styrene-compatible plug for each hole. Once the solvent cement joints had hardened, the excess material was trimmed off before drilling the holes for the grabirons.
On decorated cars, I barely push the grab iron into the hole. I then paint it the appropriate color, and then push the grab in the correct distance and glue from the backside. No extra paint on the body doing it this way.
My only experience with installing grad irons is on P2K kits, and I have no trouble installing them, but getting them of the sprue is a pain. I broke one, so it's a good thing they give you two extra!
HarrisonMy only experience with installing grad irons is on P2K kits, and I have no trouble installing them, but getting them of the sprue is a pain. I broke one, so it's a good thing they give you two extra!
Unfortunately, this particular chuck isn't available at the moment. It comes with, IIRC, an adapter with a 8mm bore and the driver has a shaft diameter of 6mm. I have a machinist friend working on a bushing but for now a piece of heat-shrink tubing is making up the difference. There is very little run-out.
The driver turns at a respectable 100 RPM and I can drill plastic, resin or brass with ease. I have found that close-chucking tends to break bits more often, for me anyway. Leaving some shank extending out of the jaws seems to allow the bit to flex just a bit.
There are other similar chucks out there and you may possibly come up with a workable combination. It sure would be nice to get the cordless driver with the proper 2 49' 24.7" taper that the chuck could simply press onto the shaft without the adapter.
I did take a look at the link. I'm going to have to spend some time seeing if I can figure out if there was any consensus opinion as to what worked best. It seemed like a big part of the discussion was why there were variations of the same item. Ended up totally confused..
The motorized pin vice discussion is spread over several issues. Three methods were evaluated and the conclusion was method 1, which is close to what I show with the General Tools driver, seemed to work the best.
To use it, I open the centre drawer in my work desk, and rest my hand and the driver in it, then use my free hand to feed the work-piece to the bit. The variable speed offers control good enough for drilling plastics, but I usually use it for drilling metal.
Ed got me inspired by showing his powered micro drill so I went looking for one for myself. As he mentioned, matching a chuck to a cordless driver seems to be a bit of a challenge, so I have ordered one of these. It is 12 volts so I'm hoping that I can use a train set power supply to control the speed:
The ideal companion for quick pick-ups around the home, this cordless hand vacuum is lightweight and compact. With a small but powerful charging stand, the Grab & Go+ Hand Vacuum is always ready for any unexpected dry mess or accident.
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For some reason, the app won't let me grab the walkie talkie. As soon as I touch the hand it disappears and the warning message pops up that I need to tap and hold, but doesn't let me hold! Is there a trick to it? I've not had any problems with this particular action until now.
In order to complete this particular Quick-Time Event, you will need to hold your finger down on the screen, and once the arrow appears on the icon, slide your finger up in the direction of the arrow, and you will be able to complete the QTE successfully.
My apologies, please try holding your finger down longer, until the arrow appears, then drag your finger in the direction of the arrow, and you should be able to grab the walkie talkie successfully. It may take a few attempts to complete it successfully.
I am also having this same problem. I touch the screen 1 time and hold the initial icon down (receive warning message) tried touching- lift finger, touch the blinking hand icon next and I hold it down for a while (either continues to flash, goes away, or error message), even tried using two fingers to touch both the hand icon and the dot at the same time. I finally give up. I've spent hours trying to make it work. NEED HELP PLEASE! This is ridiculous... Don't know what I'm doing wrong.. Is there a certain timeing trick, or time out thing to it? I've tried everything. This app isn't cheap. I expect it to work. I have the iPad mini with iOS software in case that helps any. Thanks for your help.
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