There Is No Disk In The Drive
Gema Shisila
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I just got my macbook pro back from a harddrive repair and it was reported to have been working fine. So, I start it up and it takes me to Mac OS X instalation screen (The Snowlepard disk is in it) and I select a language and then agree to the terms and service. It then takes me to a screen that says "Install Mac OSX" as a title and below it says "Select the disk where you want to install Mac OS X". The only thing is there isn't any thing to select from.
When I came across this I noticed that I didn't have a volume under the main APPLE SSD SM1024G Media. You need create a partition under it. Click on APPLE SSD SM1024G Media, select partition map scheme is GUID Partition Table. Name the volume Macintosh. Select and make sure it is in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. Select Apply. Once you see the volume created. Go back to the macOS utility screen and select install MacOS.
Switch over to Disk Utility (IIRC, should be in one of the menus), see if the HDD device is there. Click on it to select, make sure the partition map scheme is GUID Partition Table. If a volume is present (named Macintosh HD?), select and make sure it is in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. Erase/repartition if needed, and see if that fixes the MIA disk issue.
Reinstall Mac OX S, when prompt to select disk for installation, there is no disk. Neither Disk Utility showing the drive. I have got my one fixed today, been told because of HDD cable. Try this one whether it fix your.
On my machine (late 2012 27" iMac), the Disk Utility choice was inside the window with the choices as to where to load the OS from. I selected Disk Utility and followed Courcouls's instructions and my problem was solved. Apparently, my new HDD wasn't being recognized by the system yet, but after "fixing" that problem, it came to life, so to speak, and I was able to continue with the installation. I'm now upgrading to the latest version of OS X, thanks to you two! Thank you!
You should be able to upgrade for free to the latest version of OS X after your system is back up and running. Go to the App Store and check for upgrades, or click on the apple logo in the upper left corner of the menu, and select About This Mac, then click Software Update (Upgrade). Hope this helps.
Niel, you are "The MAN!" I have a 2006 MacBook Pro and I just replace the original Toshiba Aries 80GB and 5400 RPM with a new Seagate 500GB SATA,16MB Cache, and 7200 RPM and I had the same issue as "emmingja" I have totally forgot about "Disk Utility". Thanks, just wish I could of installed the "Lion" OS. Anyways, thanks for your response to "emingja's" post. ?
You need to Restart, and this time answer only the "What Language" question, then wait a quarter minute for the MenuBar to be drawn, then choose Disk Utility from the Utilities Menu and follow Courcoul's good directions above.
I understand the technical difference between the two: quick formatting just tells the drives that all the sectors are writable, and doesn't really delete any data... The drive just writes over existing sectors as and when needed, while a hard format will clean the HDD completely, and wipe all data, (write 0's everywhere I think).
A full format does not just clean the partition table data, it also checks every sector on the disk surface for corrupted ones. This is primarily why it takes so much longer to perform then a quick format. A quick format just rewrites the partition tables.
From a performance standpoint, there is no difference. When the HDD writes a file to the disk, it just finds the next available "free sector", and overwrites whatever is there (regardless of whether or not it is a 0 or a 1). Think of it like this: a quick format just "deletes" all of the files, whereas a full format performs a sector check of the drive surface, and depending on the formatting utility, may fill the drive with zeroes (the default format utilities included with Windows do not zero-fill the drive. Most disk manufacturers provide diagnostic utilities which include the ability to do this.
If the drive is brand new, you should be fine with a quick format. If the drive has corrupted sectors (or even if you think that it does), it would be worth your time to do the full format. If you want to play it safe, ensure that you do at least one full format to the drive. That should reveal all bad sectors, and from then on, you can just do quick formats.
I use Western Digital's Data Lifeguard tool to zero fill drives, it will do any brand. Once it is done the drive becomes "unitialized" in disk management, back to a factory state. This leads me to believe it writes to sectors a format does not.
As others have said doing a full format checks the entire disk, typically by writing data to it (all ones or all zeros) and then checking to make sure the written data is correct. If the data is not correct then an entry is made in a table that keeps track of bad sectors. I'm trying to be generic here because there are quite a few OSs. Since the format identified bad sectors, those sectors can never be written to since they were recorded in the appropriate table. They are never free sectors in other words. When someone says you only need to do a full format only once, I don't know how effective that is for disk integrity. As a disk gets older you are more likely, not less likely to have surface areas develop problems.
If you are wondering if a full format wipes the disk clean, in most OSs it does since it had to write data to read it back to ensure good sectors. I read another comment that a person looked at the data on the disk after doing a full format and sure enough the format data was left there, and in this case the format pattern is 00EE = in binary 0000 0000 1110 1110.
So if you are wondering about security of data that you are putting on the disk, doing a full format ensures that you don't write to a bad sector. Even though newer disks reserve some sectors in case others go bad (sectors that otherwise don't get written to), that still hasn't saved me in the past. I had a patch of bad sectors at the end of a disk, and of course I didn't know about it until the disk filled up. Once I started writing to that part of the disk I started getting write errors, and it would hang up my computer for a little bit. The disk couldn't recover from it and the data was lost. If I would have done a full format from the very beginning that wouldn't have happened. In fact, I would have sent the disk back and got another one, assuming the surface problem was there from the beginning (and I am).
If you are talking about security where you want to wipe out data so it can never be read, then there are different tools that can do that and some come bundled with software you might have such as virus protection/internet security software, or different disk tools that will do it. I think there are some free options for that, but if nothing else there are disk tools that are pretty cheap to buy that you can have for the rest of your life (as long as the tool is compatible with later OS's). I'd say that's better than doing a format for that purpose. Now, if you are simply trying to keep out an amateur from seeing the data that you used to have on a disk, then a full format in most OS's does the trick, but not all. Any that write data and leave that data when the format is done is good enough for that purpose.
I do a quick format pretty much all the time unless it's a smaller disk (2TB and less). You simply plan on doing something else for a while during the format. A full format though is not about zeroing out the disk; it's about writing a pattern and then checking that pattern to ensure that the surface is good and putting into a table any that aren't.
By default in Windows Vista and later versions, the format command writes zeros to the whole disk when a full format is performed. In Windows XP and earlier versions of Windows, the format command doesn't write zeros to the whole disk when a full format is performed. Do not full format ssd only quick format since it degrade it's life span and on hard disk drive or thumb drive do full format only if you want to sell or donate or if it has a virus.
Hello, I'm a new iMac user here. Literally. I am just able to afford an iMac system now and this is my first iMac ever after 3 years of saving. Which explains my newbie question. I hope you can help me. Anyway, here are my questions:
My iMac originally came with Catalina. So when Big Sur happened, I happily updated. However, to my surprise, the performance became VERY SLOW. The boot time is now at about 2 minutes and 30 seconds before I can fully use the Mac. The "hammer that drove the nail" was when I was having a zoom meeting with valued clients, and we were editing our documents and my Mac froze.
But the interface was sluggish so I decided to restart the Computer first and launch Recovery Mode again. To my surprise (I'm easily surprised), a rotating globe icon appeared and performed an internet recovery procedure. Cutting the long story short, I was able to install Mojave. When the installation finished, a new disk image appeared. It was named "update". When I updated to Big Sur, the disk drive was still there. I'm not so sure why it's there as it was never there before.
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