Install Car Racing Games For Pc

[Fidelia Boldul]

Myinitial opening shows that all of the components were packaged really well and they seem to be pretty high quality, especially around the wang. As you got to the mouth end, there was a lot more ambiguity, the lack of instructions was a bit concerning, and the machining quality wasn't quite as nice/finished.

Overall I'm quite happy with the kit at this point, but you can tell that you're not working with Flyin' Miata, Paco, or GoodWin on the instruction department. That's not so much a knock against Nine Lives, but more a note that since I order a lot of stuff from FM, I've been pampered by the clarity of instructions :)

Because I work for a CAM software company and a few of my coworkers have routers in their garage, I opted to just buy the dimensions to make a splitter from Nine Lives instead of buying one of theirs.

I got the PDF and I have to admit I was a bit let down here. I was hoping for a DXF with all critical dimensions laid out, but I think as a guy who works in manufacturing, I had my hopes set a bit too high. Here's what I got, note that I horribly, horribly compressed this and intentionally hid the two dimensions that were on it.. Buy it from them if you want pretty lines and the dimensions, ya mooches!:

Okay, okay, there was a bit more to it than that. Because it wasn't a DXF, I had to run it through Inkscape to convert from a PDF to a DXF, and then scale it appropriately. Scaling it was easy in our software (Mastercam). Then I cleaned up some ugly noise that seemed to be induced by their output to PDF, finally I extruded the basic shape they gave me with drill holes. After that, I split up the model like they do with theirs for shipping/material reasons, before finally doodle-ing up the pockets and extruded them down into the part. Other than that, it was just nesting the two parts onto a 4x8' sheet.

This is where the lack of instructions was definitely a hinderance. Johnny said last month that they were working on getting them done, but in the mean time he helpfully released some youtube videos. Watch these before you open the box, so you understand what the pieces are:

Note that the "sturdy boiis" that mount to the splitter need to have the receiver brackets mounted to the side mounts. The video above sort of covers it, but it did take me some trial and error. Here's what it looks like when properly assembled:

This is another instance where you can tell you're not quite dealing with FM, as a lot of the holes of the brackets were not punched all the way through, and the water-jetted receiver brackets needed to be snapped off. I cleaned that all up with the bench grinder, as I don't like sharp bits under the car when I need to reach in to sort something out!

This quick-connect splitter connection looks awesome! I can't wait to get the Damn Dam installed next! ... As soon as I figure out how :). I'm assuming it's just tack it in place using the included rivets after cutting the bumper away. We'll see.

Aero is the next big project for my NA, and I've been debating over DIY vs. 9LR... I have a set of splitter brackets from TSE, a roll of plastic for the air dam, and the garden border material for mounting it to the splitter, but that's as far as I've gone.

Yeah, I was a bit concerned about the gap, but I realized that it's already way better than the stock black plastic surround, and I haven't had any over heating problems, so I don't plan to do anything immediately about it.

I was also thinking about rivnuts for the dam, but honestly, anything that would require dam removal can probably just as easily be done with bumper removal, so I'm going to just rivet it. It'll still pop off with the bumper.

I ended up getting the sanding done yesterday and putting the rounded nose on by hand. I didn't do it on the CNC since I couldn't remember what size round over bits I had, so I didn't want a mismatch with his. Also, we weren't going to do a second fixturing to do the underside anyway.

On Facebook, they got back to me and said that the two smaller plates shown above are for reinforcement plates for the locking bobbins, and the u-shaped bar is to go over the subframe to help lock it in place..

It also seems to long to have a bracket go above the rack. Again, at even a picture of the bracket installed would be helpful.. it's not shown in a single picture, nor is there any holes for it on the splitter shown on their site.

After a bunch of cutting, and talking to a friend that purchased one of the first splitters from 9 Lives, it looks like the PDF is based on the first design of the splitter, because we both ended up cutting off about 1.75" @ the back to get it to fit and doing a bunch of other cutting to fit it.

The slots are a bit to small even after inverting, and if you get the PDF note that the whole thing is the "bottom" and the slot for the air dam should be on the "top", basically, if you get it, you'd have to cut it out following the outline, flip it over, cut the slot for the dam (or add your brackets), but the back profile will still be off.

With that said, I'd like to open-source my derivative work. Feel free to send me an email with proof that you bought the PDF from 9LR, and I'll give you a DXF or PDF of the rear profile to scale so you can graft that onto your template.

I spent way more time than I should have had to getting the splitter mounted up. At this point I'm thinking I lost more time than I gained by using the PDF, or at least broke even. Very disappointing.

The problem is that either the slot is on the wrong side, or the profile on the back is upside down. If the slot is supposed to be on the opposite side, it should be displayed as a hidden/dashed line to indicate that, and the view should have been labelled appropriately, "Bottom View, Top View, etc." And the back is completely wrong anyway relative to the Sturdy Boii mount holes.

Now, that's obvious to anyone who has used mounts like this to support an air dam, but as a complete novice, I didn't realize that the front of the Sturdy Boiis were supposed to be flush with the slot.

You can cut it off as far up as you want to within about 2" of the seam (the pre-drilled holes in the dam are .5" below the top). I didn't cut any more yet, because I needed to mount my side markers (more on that later).

After that, it was a real pain to try to get it to wrap around. It would have been a lot easier if they has wrapped it up the opposite way for shipping, as it was curling in the wrong direction. I had to use a heat-gun a lot, and then wrangled it back to clamp it (no pictures during this bit, but you can see the clamp holding it to my bumper in this pic).

For my purposes (still street-legal), I wanted to use the stock side markers, so I just marked out where they were with painters tape left-to-right, and measured how far down the center was. Then I used a dremel with a spiral bit to cut out out the slot.

Finally, I needed to get my brake cooling kit intalled. I went with the Singular motorsports brackets and kit from Good-Win-Racing, which came with the front grommets and hose. I had to cut my bumper back a bit to make it easier to route hose, so I did that with a multi-tool:

Solid thread! I appreciate the effort you put into this. As with any multi-piece component kit for a car, it will be a tad different for each user and their own chassis.

It's also interesting what you ran across with the PDF, I have all of the prototypes in my garage and they all lined up on my NB steering rack properly. Maybe the file Johnny used for the PDF is off or maybe it got off during the conversion to DFX?

Hardware note, the m6x1.00 bolts used to mount the top of the sturdy-bois, there's already two on the frame(unless yours are gone) so we include the other two required.

QA note, which holes weren't all the way punched through? We've got another full-time guy in the shop to help Johnny, so I'm confident these things shouldn't happen anymore, but we always like to know small things to improve.

Splitter note, have you made side-supports yet? We talked about putting some cables in with the kit, but it would have increased the cost for just the splitter by about $40 for $15 worth of parts. We opted to have users choose their own on this part. Also, 3" is the default size to comply with GLTC rules. Some gains can be had with 4" and we saw diminishing returns after 5" on CFD runs.

I'm ok with you sharing your DFX file with other PDF owners. Obviously letting them know this is still a very DiY route.

So have you gotten to the track with it yet?! At the end of the day, we love seeing people being able to go faster after getting this setup.

To answer the most important question first: Yes! I dropped almost 3 seconds off of my personal best at both Palmer Motorsports Park and Thompson Speedway in the past two weeks! It was enough to win my class @ the SCCA Time Trials National event this past weekend :)

It's also interesting what you ran across with the PDF, I have all of the prototypes in my garage and they all lined up on my NB steering rack properly. Maybe the file Johnny used for the PDF is off or maybe it got off during the conversion to DFX?

Absolutely possible. I had to convert from PDF to DXF using Inkscape, and then after cleaning up the DXF in my CAD/CAM system, I had to scale it to the dimensions given. I did the conversion 3 times to make sure it lined up to the best of my abilities (i.e., I didn't fat-finger something somewhere).

I'd happily send in my DXF to compare to yours if you'd like to check? I have to say that I was disappointed that I didn't just get a already-to-size DXF without properly labeleled views and dimensions other than those two..

Not yet, but I do have to snag a picture of my last mod done to the splitter.. was obviously having some deflection as the dam kept popping out and there was a bunch of gravel and rubber getting jammed in the little slot. What I did was just put some "L" brackets behind the slot (only secured to the splitter) and a bead of RTV in front of the dam. Seemed to work great. I'll make side supports if I still seem to be getting separation after this, but it's hard to beat a $5 tube of RTV :)

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