Has anyone noticed this

[arg2761]

Has anyone seen this behavior. It's as if the extruder head lifts as X increases; also, it is more pronounced as Y decreases.

The second and third row from the left "look" to me as underextruded; but, the ones on the left are not. It is my opinion that the leveling is not calculated correctly. I suspect the Sensor because it started behaving erratically a few days back. Now seems to be ok. I'm waiting on some connectors to replace it.

Sandro, I know you suggested lowering the extruder on the right side (squishing the print). It did not make a difference. I get the same result.

These were done on the same job. They are 0.2mm thick.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Regards,

Al

[DroneOn]

Al,

Post the .stl file and i will try it on my printer. I assume you are using the Left hotend correct?

[arg2761]

DroneON:

Yes, left hand extruder.

I attached the file. I multiply the object and place them 3 x 3.

Lorei is a duo, 9x9, no heated bed.

I physically removed the right hand extruder (but it is setup as a Duo). Left the thermistor installed to fool the controller into running. I removed the second head after this issue started.

I'm using Cura 15.04.6. I attached the config file.

Hatchbox filament.

Regards,

Al

[Sandro]

Yup.  I think I have this problem isolated and I'm working on a fix.

Quick update with what I've been up to:

1. ran initial tests using my default setup (stock sensor, heated bed, glass plate, Ultem 1000 PEI sheet).
2. created a version of the current Marlin release candidate (1.1.0 RC8) for the Lorei.
   
3. ran several test similar to the ones Al ran above
   
4. switched sensors to a different inductive sensor -- LJ12A3-4Z/BX (http://amzn.to/2oEyqtk)
   
5. attempted (and failed) to use a capacitive sensor -- LJC12A3-A-Z/BX (http://amzn.to/2pdAxY0)
   
6. removed my glass plate and tested on the metal bed with and without heat (default sensor, metal bed, painter's tape)
   
7. tested using two bed plates stacked
8. ran several manual tests using the stock sensor and the alternate sensor
   
9. checked for the possibility of using a BLtouch
   

After 30+ test prints, my conclusion is that the included sensor is picking up the carriage plate and my aluminum  y-axis block.  This makes a kind of sense, where there is more metal the sensor is detecting higher than in regions with less metal.

The best possible solution is probably a BLTouch (http://amzn.to/2pdE34O), but the BLTouch needs a servo line, and I don't think we have one on the X-Machines controller.  The next best solution may be David Crocker's  Mini Differential IR height sensing board (https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/).  I'm also tempted to keep testing with capacitive sensors, but I hear mixed reviews of them.

[Sandro]

Al, sorry I wasn't clear --  I didn't mean lowering the extruder on the left side, but lowering it overall.  So I usually issue M851, and find out my z-offset.  Then drop it by .15-.3mm depending what my results are.  In your case, I'd probably try dropping it .15mm.

It's pretty clear from the above photo that you're not low enough anywhere but the left side.

[arg2761]

No sweat. I may have misunderstood.

It is giving me heartburn, though.

Al

[Jens]

@Sandro Have you set up a public(?) repository with the latest firmware? I have not looked into the needed changes for the Lorei and I am afraid bricking my printer. :)

Yesterday the 30mm primary fan broke down and the 40mm fan does not sound healthy. So I decided to order two E3D V6 with everything included so I can do a full swap. Because of the changed thermistor mount this will probably require me to dive into marlin to set this up correctly.
If someone has some instructions what I need to look at...that would be highly appreciated.
Seems like a good opportunity to set up dual extruder offset correctly, and up the max temp to 300°C. :)

[arg2761]

Jens:

Where did you buy the E3D V6?

If you are getting it from Filastruder, they include a "Semitec 104GT" thermistor. I got one but have not installed it. I believe they are compatible with the Lorei without changes to the firmware.

Other people in the forum have used them. They did not report having to flash or problems related to temperature.

You can look in here. It'll take you straight to the EPCOS 100K Thermistor (B57560G1104F); which I believe is the one we have (or the same specs).

http://reprap.org/wiki/Thermistor#EPCOS_100K_Thermistor_.28B57560G1104F.29

(you can find the Semitec there and look a the specs)

I'm sure someone will chime in.

Regards,

Al

[Dnnsea]

I got mine from http://e3d-online.com/ direct from the source. The new thermistor in them worked fine for me, didn't have to change any software. Did have to get some JST connectors as the ones from E3D aren't the same

[arg2761]

I'm sure Filastruder gets them from e3d.

Al

[Dnnsea]

I believe I got these from E3D
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/175-universal-bowden-full-kit
I know it was 24v

[arg2761]

Dnnsea:

That page has a link to a "sensor documentation page". In there there is another link to "Details on how to configure your firmware to use this thermistor can be found within the v6 documentation."

http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly#Configure_Firmware_.28Easy.21.29

For the Semitec 104GT2, they recommend "#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5"

The default Lore thermistor is set to "1".

So, I stand corrected. 

Regards,

Al

[arg2761]

Meaning, we do have to flash with the new value of "5" for the Semitec 104GT2 thermistor.

Al

[Dnnsea]

Mine thermistor value is 5 in my program, I do remember some saying there's was 1. But when I asked Xmachines a long time back they showed me a link to a thermistor that was a 5 value also

[Dnnsea]

Found the link they gave me
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Modular-Extruder-Thermistor/dp/B01F4DMOCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483982255&sr=8-1&keywords=semitec+100k+thermistor
This is what they said to use to replace the thermistor and I have a value of 5 just like the one in the latest E3D

[Jens]

I got my hotend directly from E3D-online. I looked into the arduino IDE yesterday but I have look into the changes that XMachines did to their version.

I might switch to a single nozzle / dual extruder setup in the long run... the dual nozzle support in our version of marlin is a joke. At least the offset values should be adjustable via the GUI.

[Sandro]

I don't, but plan on it soon.  The end of the semester is keeping me busy.

Mostly, you can use the stock Marlin, except for a small change that has to be made in Marlin.cpp and a custom Configuration.h Configuration_adv.h

I ditched the other changes they made (most were just menu modifications) to make tracking the Marlin main branch easier in the future.  I did go through the trouble of modifying the source to include the X-Machines controller board with an eye towards submitting a pull-request to the Marlin dev team.

I'll try to get a public version of my changes up this weekend.

[Sandro]

Here's a link to the public git repo with my changes:

https://github.com/sandrofouche/Marlin-Lorei

This is Marlin RC 1.1.10 RC8 branch with my changes.  I didn't integrate the BugFix branch, but probably will in a week or two.

[arg2761]

Sandro:

Thanks for sharing. It is appreciated.

Regards,

Al

[Daniel Ulfe]

Sandro...

I know I late to the party but I also was not able to use the inductive sensor properly with Bilinear leveling, UBL or increasing the grid size... but the BLTouch sensor fixed all my issues... I was able to use it with PIN D11 (between the LCD wires and far nut)

Daniel.

[Robert]

I am thinking about installing a BLTouch, and I am just wondering how you hooked up the wires and what changes you made to the firmware to get it working.

[Jon Gagnon]

I'm hoping Daniel will answer that one as well.  I'm currently converting from the in induction sensor to the BL Touch as we speak, From what I gather from his picture, D11 is the solenoid and Z- is where you connect the Z switch,  Wish we had any kind of drawing for what our board actually is.

[DroneOn]

which board do you guys have v1 or v2? both the extra ports below the limit switch connectors say laser? do both those ports also have a little mosfet just to the left?

Attached is the mount I made for testing the BLTouch. It mounts on the existing Indux sensor itself and if placed so the mount portion is directly behind the left hotend, and rotated fully ccw (looking from the top) it should line up directly in the Y plane with nozzle 1. Oh it it just clears the Z tower but check it by hand before you home your printer.

[Jon Gagnon]

DroneOn,

Here's a picture of the ports available on my board.

[DroneOn]

Looks like a v1 board. You see the pin labeled A11 of the connector labled LaserOut? From top to bottom (of your pic orientation) the LaserOut connector should be 5v, gnd and signal pin A11. Please verify this before going any further with your mod. A11 will be your servo pin and the existing connection for your Z probe will still be your Z probe for the BLTouch. Be sure not to use the voltage supply pin from the Z probe connector and only connect the signal and gnd.

[Robert]

Does anyone know what pins LaserOut and LaserMod are on?

[Robert]

Anybody still around that knows the firmware changes needed to add a bltouch?

[Jon]

There's hasn't been a whole lot of movement on this forum in a very long time.  My xmachine is still a work horse and I still use it weekly but I've switch to an SKR 1.4 board.  The support for the firmware is awesome and there's no guessing on the pins and the best part is the board is cheap to buy.  I would honestly suggest to update the main board instead of dealing with the frustration of dealing with this not well documented board. 

[sie...@gmail.com]

Good to know yours is still going Jon.  Nice idea on the board

[sie...@gmail.com]

What's the difference between the Regular and Turbo SKR board?

[Robert]

I figured out the changes that needed to be made to the firmware to get the BLTouch working.  I am going to try and get the main line branch of the Marlin 2.0 source working with the Lorei.  I still haven't figured out what pins the Laser and Laser Mod ports are on, I think I have most of the others though.

[Carlos Guerra]

Hi Jon, Were you able to successfully upgrade the board in your Lorei? And is it straightforward or does it need a lot of modifications?