lorei duo with heatbed didn't turn on

[kil...@hotmail.com]

hi everybody

I just finished the assembly of my lorei duo with heatbed as well as the connection of the two wires on the power supply but impossible to start the printer.
The connections on the power supply are as follows:

-selector on 115v
-cable from wall to power supply: brown= live , blue= neutral , yellow= ground
-cable from power supply to lorei: black= V- , blue= V+

Next,I connect the power supply alone to test the connection, I get a stable green LED and 24v on the output terminals with red wire on V+ and black on V- with my voltmeter but when i do the same with the lorei connected at the other end that's where things goes weird....
The green LED lightly light up and fade away very fast with a strange little sound coming from the power supply for less than a second.
Nothing on the lorei when i turn it on , no light on the LCD even if i push or turn the button under the screen...
and when i disconnect the lorei from the power supply ,the green LED come back to full power!!!

my power supply
model: PC-240150
input: 100-120v ac
200-240v ac
output: 24v 15a

If someone has an idea how to solve this problem, it would be greatly appreciated

This is my first 3d printer and I hope the PCB is not damaged since it was not well protected and almost free in the box with the anti-static bag open
Two pieces of tape to fix it on the sheet metal frame is not a very good protection in my opinion...

thanks in advance for your help

[Jon]

Reading through your information here, I've not found any mistakes.  I followed the same instructions and they worked fine. I doubt you did anything incorrectly.

Mine was packages securely to me but that may be them rushing to get them out, someone else packaging it, or because they couldn't package a larger power supply for the heated bed the same way.

How many connectors does you supply come with? (the instructions and mine were difference)

Have you attempted this without the heated bed attached?

Have you attempted to change which V- and V+ connectors you used? (mine had multiple)

Can you double check the 110/220 switch?  Mine was originally set to 220v and it was kind of difficult to reach the switch. It is possible that switch is stuck a little and not pushed the whole way over.

I'm guessing these aren't very useful...but it is all I have come up with besides a manufacturing/assembly issue.

[Tony Faria]

Does the screen or green light change after you turn the switch on the back of the printer on and off at all?

[Scott Haynes]

Do you have the USB cable connected to anything?  If so, try it without the USB connected.

[kil...@hotmail.com]

@ Jon

My lorei  is the kit that i need to make full assembly and is not tested by xmachine

My power supply come with no wire attached on it and the switch is on the side and easily accessible with finger and set like you on 220v

I didn't get any instruction on how to connect the two wires on the psu but find the answer on internet from an other who connect the same wire on 12v psu

I fully connect the wire in the lorei including the heatbed but for the little white connector i am not 100% sure and AFTER i try to turn the lorei on

No i didn't try to change the V+ V- connection screw but the first time i connect the blue on V- and black on V+ ... nothing happen so i check my connection and made the correction  (i hope that i didn't damaged  anything)

 

[kil...@hotmail.com]

@ tony

no nothing at all    

[kil...@hotmail.com]

@scott

no i didn't connect the pc to the lorei with the usb cable

i just want to see if the printer is powering up and try if i can do some test on it

[kil...@hotmail.com]

i just made the swap on the screw V+ V- (got 3 on each)    and notice that there is a smell of electronics coming from the pcb when i turn on the printer

Maybe  i blow up the pcb when i connect it the first time 

[Jon]

That is clearly a different PCB than I have. My 110V/220V switch is located within a holey mesh shielding.  I had to poke a plastic rod through the grating to reach it.  My printer only has 7 connectors too.

That being said, my printer did not have wires attached when received either.

The xmachines website includes a quick start guide that provides instructions for hooking up the PCB.  I think they used one like yours.  Nevertheless, I think you have it right according to that.

I was worried it might be as short inside of the printer.

I'm not an electrician (im a chemical engineer) but that would explain why you didn't see an issue until you turned on the printer.

From you update, I am now hoping you may have blown a fuse or similar when you reversed the blue and black wires. 

Burning smell though doesn't bring me much hope.

If I had this issue I would bring to their office.  They have been very kind offering to help with any problems I have.

However I know most backers aren't luck enough to be local...

[Scott Haynes]

That is the same power supply that I received and you have it hooked up correctly in the picture (to the power supply anyway).

[dayboy]

thank you Jon and everybody for your help

i didn't see any kind of fuses that i can recognize and test
i am going to ask more informations to backer's support
maybe they can help me to find the part who is damage if they had this issue
or send me a new board

PS: did i need to removed this subject?

[Jon]

No. Don't remove the subject. But if it is resolved please update here to help others who experience the same issue.

[dayboy]

hi everybody 

i do some test tonight

- i connect a 24v motor to the PSU and see nothing wrong, he's running well and the green LED on the PSU stay the same with or without motor connected... the PSU is ok

- i do the same with the PCB alone and the LED turn red and fade away

- i test all fans on the printer and they are running well with 12v as ask by xmachines support

i connect the PCB again and find lots of heat coming from a little part ,near the input connector, named S1G (rectifier i think)

it was so hot that it is desoldered by touching it

the vendor who i ask information about this part said that the board is probably ok because the part cut the dc at the beginning

i think it's good news  

i'm waiting the next answer from xmachines to know the exact name of this part if possible

and maybe ordering a new PCB if i can't repair mine (they offered to buy a new one)

this little S1G rectifier cost around 2$can so it's not very expensive if that do the job

but i'm not certain if there is something else to repair

[Scott Haynes]

What did they want for a new board?

[Jean-Laurent Picard]

Probably $20.

And $50 shipping.

And $300 to get it before the end of the year. ;-)

[Jon]

Actually if you get to talk with them they seem very willing to help. 

They offered me a replacement hot end for an issue I was able to fix on my own (and therefore didn't accept). 

I doubt they have that component sitting around, however.

Where did you get that diagram?  It is very useful.

[dayboy]

they tell me about 80$ for PSU AND PCB +shipping

the diagram is on the back of the assembly manual i get with  the 300$ kit to do it yourself

if it's the same board as me   i can give you a picture of it

no problem

[dayboy]

Happy birthday to meee...

Happy birthday to meee...

Happy birthday

Happy birthday

Happy birthday to meeeeeee (suppose to be august 2015 lol)

YEAH  i'm very happy tonight

that little S1G rectifier save my PCB, there is no other damage on the board, fantastic......

the men who made the 10 min repair didn't ask me anything except to give him feedback of the repair (this is something rare today)

be sure that he had a big hourray!!! he laughed at the other end of the phone when i call it back

so guys if you short cut your printer, look at this little boy