Halyard Math question

[Patrick Nelson]

So I've got two new reef points in my Wave sail thanks to JT. I was going to get a new halyard made with two more stopper pins in a longer wire section spliced to line. As far as position of new stopper lines - is it as simple as measuring the distance from the original downhaul grommet to the first reef downhaul strap and that would be the distance on the new halyard from the original stopper pin to the first reef stopper pin? and then so on for the second reef? Seems right to me, but maths...

Or should I do a completely different setup of some sort?

Jahn helped with the problem of the boltrope at the sail head popping out of the comptimp mast track which is made of plastic and can be pulled out when reefed because not as much halyard tension into the mast. We ran dyneema up to the halyard wire thimble and then around the mast you can cinch down to tighten the head of the sail into the mast. Upon release it comes down around all the standing rigging in a large loop so you can still raise and tower with the line. Does the trick.

Patrick

[Jahn Tihansky]

Patrick, 

Your methodology should work.  To make yourself feel better, tip the boat over and hoist the sail with the tack set at each reef then mark the halyard where it sits at the ball catch at the masthead. Make sure you account for luff stretch by tightening the halyard adequately. Call me with any questions. 

JT

Jahn Shaffer Tihansky

Professional Mariner, Sailing Coach & Adventurer

website: jahntihansky.com

Mobile +1 410-320-1710

Email jahn.t...@gmail.com

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[Vladimir Eremeev]

Hi, Patrick. Yes, it is just a matter of measuring distance between grummets and making sure that distance between stopper balls matches. 

I want so see your loop setup for keeping head of the sail in.  Wouldn’t  just replacing top 3 inches of bolt rope with a hard slider work too? 

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On May 16, 2026, at 9:23 AM, Jahn Tihansky <jahn.t...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Patrick Nelson]

I remember looking into a sail slug and I was uncertain because there was some disagreement on the forums as to whether the slug size needed would both stay in place in the flexible-ish track and still go up and down easily and transition from the aluminum to comp tip section. None of these people had actually done it themselves, though. Might be worth re-investigating. Next time I do the head tensioning line I'll take a picture. It does adds some steps to the process and has an extra line coming down the mast to be cleated off. There might be some risk of it fouling, but it seems like if you just let the whole thing go free it won't catch on anything when bringing the sail down. 

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[gordon pease]

Maybe swap the mast to an old hobie 14 mast that is a single piece.  Removing the comp tip issue.  

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[John Baker]

I have an extra Acat mast. 

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On May 16, 2026, at 12:54 PM, gordon pease <gordon...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[John Baker]

Instead of reducing sail area, have you considered increasing sail area?

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On May 16, 2026, at 1:18 PM, 'John Baker' via West River Catamaran Racing Association <WR...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

I have an extra Acat mast. 

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[Patrick Nelson]

Gordon,

I like your idea, however I'm already absurdly over budget. I also have feelings about emasculating what might otherwise be a fully functional h14. I could probably get over it though. 

John, 

I don't love your idea. It is ridiculous. But you knew that. Sometimes I wonder if you’ve already thought up all these ridiculous ideas and keep them in a Rolodex just waiting for the right prompt. Yes, I know what a Rolodex is.  

Patrick

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[Vladimir Eremeev]

Patrick,  are you going to be at the club next Tuesday? We need to talk. 

I also might get a hold of all aluminum H16 mast. The mods will be easy, just cut it down. 

I have installed reefs on boats with all aluminum and all carbon fiber masts. Never had a problem, but I see how comp tip can be a pain. 

Are you planning to use Wave? How long is the mast? 

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On May 16, 2026, at 3:56 PM, Patrick Nelson <patrick...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Patrick Nelson]

Yeah, I’ll be at the club. The mast is 20’. As Gordon mention a Hobie 14 mast will work with some mods. Yes, I am planning to use the wave. 

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[Patrick Nelson]

Actually not too bad. Local, too. 

[Patrick Nelson]

Nevermind, it wasn’t local. Do we know anyone who drives between here and Michigan? New Hobie 14 aluminum mast for 350$. 

https://sailsportmarine.com/products/hobie-14-mast?srsltid=AfmBOoq-yYSvrFpmc_6U5shlhadEGllw12ldsUVVtULPJ9mpDA8Rv-RL

[Patrick Nelson]

Vlad, 

Here's a picture. Bowline attached to halyard. The light green line encircles the shrouds and forestay and then goes back through the bowline. Raise the sail and all of that goes up with it. Once up you can pull down on the end that went through the bowline real tight using a loop to get 2:1 on a mast cleat. It hasn't fouled on me yet (so far so good. I'm going on a 3 night sail in June which will be the test), and pulls the halyard tight into the mast.   

[Vladimir Eremeev]

Patrick, it should work, I am just weary of extra lines. 

Have you tried to pull the sail out of the track? It is possible that you overthinking the problem. I always do :)  Remember, Waves came with an optional reef originally, so it is possible that the track is strong enough. I 

Also with sail this small you can use a cleat on the mast for reefs, instead of extra balls on the wire halyard.  That’s how I did on most of my boats. I used dyneema line for a halyard and used horn cleat for everything. I got rid of hook/ring lock on top of the mast altogether. 

On Nacra F17 I used double purchase to reduce a load on the top sheave, however on smaller boats I just used halyard old fashioned way, cleating it low on the mast.  You really not going to yank downhaul very hard, if it’s windy, just reef. 

Simple is always better in this race…

Best.

Vlad.

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On May 17, 2026, at 8:17 PM, Patrick Nelson <patrick...@gmail.com> wrote:



Vlad, 

Here's a picture. Bowline attached to halyard. The light green line encircles the shrouds and forestay and then goes back through the bowline. Raise the sail and all of that goes up with it. Once up you can pull down on the end that went through the bowline real tight using a loop to get 2:1 on a mast cleat. It hasn't fouled on me yet (so far so good. I'm going on a 3 night sail in June which will be the test), and pulls the halyard tight into the mast.   

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[Patrick Nelson]

Copy that about overcomplication. Yes, I can pull sail out of the track with a little bit of effort. Whether that translates to the boltrope coming out in 20-30 knots while reefed I don’t know. 

As far as the halyard, I read that cleating on the mast with no ball at top changes where the load goes on the mast. If it’s cleated at the base it causes mast compression as opposed to when hooked at the top of mast. I don't know how having a comptip factors into this. Who knows, maybe it's fine. I sailed this way last week in 20 knot gusts with no problems. Yes, the sail is pretty small, moreso when reefed, and I'm not using much downhaul or going block to block on mainsheet. If any engineer types want to chime in...   

I sailed across the bay before realizing I had a 7 inch vertical crack in the mast so I see the irony of angsting over this other stuff. Just trying to do better than that guy. 

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