Extractor Hood

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Hayley Sweigard

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Aug 5, 2024, 3:54:37 AM8/5/24
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Thebest solution is probably some sort of hybrid, turn on extractor fan when the cooktop gets powered on, measure the air quality to evaluate the amount of pollution happening and adjust the extraction level accordingly, turn off when air quality is back to normal.

I think humidity will be enough.

There is some humidity in everything and when you heat it up it will release some humidity.

So having a humidity sensor inside the hood should be enough to trigger.


Read Bluetooth Advertising Packets from BLE temperature sensors and publish data to MQTT - GitHub - deepcoder/bluetooth-temperature-sensors: Read Bluetooth Advertising Packets from BLE temperature ...


Having recently stripped an overhead extractor I found that the speed is controlled at the motor level with 3 different inputs. I think this is a common way of control as I have come across it with other inline fans. So I imagine a 3 or 4 relay like the son off one would work for the 3 speeds and the light. I imagine you could use the current switches as low voltage triggers for the relays?


Ha ha ha !

Very droll.

I was considering the casual browser who might (with a touch more information) try something along these lines - AND I like to have all relevant information togetherl

Thanks for the link though


My plan is to replace the current control panel (4 way slider for fan) with a 3D printed one with only 2 momentary buttons, one for light, one for fan.

Using a 4 way ESP relay board and ESPHOME, use 1 relay for the light and the other 3 for the 3 speeds. Using a software interlock and automation in ESPHOME to inch through each speed, ie turning each motor winding on in sequence, then all off. I think Sonoff iFan can do this inching as well.


The motor has 7 wires, two (yellow and brown from the motor) come from a large cylindrical capacitor that I assume should remain in place, in addition to the capacitors from the iFan? Then wires white, black, red go to different windings to control speed. The live from the mains seems to be bridged to each speed within the push button control. From my observation it seems like the medium speed is achieved by bridging two windings (medium and low). Highest speed is its own winding, which is why I was planning to use this on the FAN output of iFan and the neutral goes to COM and with the neutral for the LED driver for the hood lights.


Disconnect all the front switches on the hood. Wire the brown to the common of all the relays. Then yellow white red and black to the n/o contact of the relays. The switches on the hood wire to separate gpio pins on the nodemcu.


When setting up our new kitchen we had everything except the extractor hood. We rummaged many shops for a perfect one. Most of them were mildly said ugly or too expensive for our student budget. My family changed out their whole kitchen a while ago and thus I had an extractor hood laying around. Unfortunately this one was bit too big and the looks of it did not fit our kitchen. Other than that it was in a perfect condition.


Because woodworking is my big hobby I decided to give it a try and build one of my own using parts from the old hood. I searched the internet to see if someone had done it before but as it turned out these types of extractors are quite rare in the DIY community. To fix this problem I decided to make my own instruction.


And of course an idea or a vision of what you want to build. I drew a sketchup model but it was not much of a use since I did not put too many hours in that( and it was fairly straightforward project).


I covered it all with 8 mm mdf. I wanted to use 4 mm plywood but it cost four times more than mdf. I let it overhang a bit and flush trimmed it later. I though on putting cherry wood strips straight on the plywood frame but my previous experience showed that the strips tend to warp a bit and thus create caps which would look bad and decrease efficiency.


The part where the motor sits in was also made from mdf. I added small post to the inside corners to make it stronger since it had to hold the whole weight of the hood. Later on I also glued an extra piece of mdf to the back (inside) wall. This assured that I could properly mount it to the wall.


My table saw is a absolute rubbish (Makita mlt 100), but I managed to rip my board into 4 mm strips. I moved my fence back a bit so that the cutoffs would not get jammed between the blade and the fence. If your table saw does not have this feature, then clamping a straight board to your fence also does the trick.


I do not have a dust collection in my workshop so the amount of sawdust was massive. A lot of fun with broom and dustpan. And of course the fine sawdust covered everything in my shop. My lungs thanked me for wearing a respirator.


I applied glue to the frame using small brush and then added the cherry wood. I fixed it with brad nails. The nails were too long and protruded through. It was inevitable since my nailer accepts minimum nail length of 2,5 cm (1 inch). I grinded of the nails on the inside with angle grinder.


I first veneered sides and then top and bottom. I let the outer strips overhang a little so I could flush trim (and sand) them to get a nicer look. I sanded the surfaces with belt sander to get rid of burn marks and to get the whole thing flat.


I decided to make the bottom so that I could remove it if needed (this is not really needed though because the grill hole is large enough for maintenance). To fasten it I wanted to use decorative brass screws.


I think I messed up by using waterproof wood glue. After drying this thing had a gummy like consistency. It was a absolute pain in the ass to get it off. I clogged up many disc sander belts while doing that.


I decided to use boat lacquer for this although if I could do it again I would use water based lacquer since this thing will not get much wear and thus does not have to be so strong. Also water based lacquer is much easier to work with.


For the grill I ripped thin pieces of mdf and cut a groove into them for the wire mesh to fit in. I assembled it with glue and few nails. At first it seemed bit fragile but later it turned out to be sturdy enough. In the end I also decided to add carbon activated filter. This helps to keep oil out from the motor and piping.


Duct-out or filtering hoods? Island, downdraft, suspended or built-in hoods? Wall-mounted or ceiling hoods? The answer is always the same: an Elica kitchen hood, designed to fit in both traditional and modern kitchen styles.


A kitchen hood, exhaust hood, hood fan, extractor hood, or range hood is a device containing a mechanical fan that hangs above the stove or cooktop in the kitchen. It removes airborne grease, combustion products, fumes, smoke, heat, and steam from the air by evacuation of the air and filtration.[1] In commercial kitchens exhaust hoods are often used in combination with fire suppression devices so that fumes from a grease fire are properly vented and the fire is put out quickly. Commercial vent hoods may also be combined with a fresh air fan that draws in exterior air, circulating it with the cooking fumes, which is then drawn out by the hood.


In most exhaust hoods, a filtration system removes grease (the grease trap) and other particles. Although many vent hoods exhaust air to the outside, some recirculate the air to the kitchen. In a recirculating system, filters may be used to remove odors in addition to the grease.


The device is known as an extractor hood in the United Kingdom, as a range hood in the United States, and as a rangehood in Australia. It is also called a stove hood, hood fan, cooker hood, vent hood, or ventilation hood. Other names include cooking canopy, extractor fan, fume extractor, and electric chimney.


Extractor hoods may be ducted (or vented) or ductless (or recirculating). Ducted hoods blow the gases to the outdoors; ductless hoods filter the air, often using activated charcoal, to remove odor and smoke particles from the air and then release the cleaned air back into the kitchen.


A ducted system removes of all forms of airborne contamination, while a ductless one recirculates heat and moisture. In addition, a ducted application eliminates the need for regular replacement of the filters and avoids the airflow restriction (and the resultant loss of power) caused by them. However, the ducted application can be impractical, due to lack of space or ability to install a duct system, make-up air requirements, or the additional cost of heating or cooling the make-up air.


Exhaust hoods almost always include built-in lighting to illuminate the cooking surface. Extractor hood controls are typically electronic, though some low-end models use electromechanical controls. Extractor hoods with electronic controls can offer remote control, motorized height adjustment, thermal sensor, overheat protection, boost mode, delayed shut-off, filter cleaning reminder, active noise cancellation, temperature display, user presets (memory), and so on.


NFPA 96 Standard for Ventilation Control and Fire Protection of Commercial Cooking says that mesh filters shall not be used. It requires that "Listed" grease filters shall be tested in accordance with UL 1046, Standard for Grease Filters for Exhaust Ducts.


Kitchen hoods are broadly classified into ducted hoods and ductless hoods. This classification of these kitchen hoods[2][3] is done purely on the basis of how the hoods process the air that is being sucked in.


Ducted kitchen hoods are the most common and a primary type of kitchen hood. As the name suggests, a ducted kitchen hood has a duct that is used to process and expel any smoke that is generated on top of the kitchen hob.


Ductless kitchen hoods do not have a duct that is used to process the air. Instead, it makes use of strong air filtration and then pumps out the air back into the room. These types of range hoods are usually used in houses.


Loud kitchen hoods can affect well-being, and may even contribute to hearing loss.[5] Variable speed fans are generally noisier at higher speeds and different models may have different noise levels. Vented hoods are generally noisier but more effective than recirculating hoods.[5]

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