Worldtripping Newsletter #9

[Simon and Leah]

Hello from Lilongwe,

It's been a long time since our last missive, and quite a lot has
occurred !

We finally left Kampala, and headed for the Sese Islands.
A canoe journey past an electrical storm; a pitch black struggle
around a quiet island, and a final reward.
An idyllic haven of sunsets and tranquility for longer than planned.

From there it was the rollercoaster tarmac out of Uganda, and onto the
dusty gravel of Tanzanian highways.
We wound our way alongside banana plantations, thatched villages and
exotic butterflies, slowly circling Lake Victoria.
Our destination, the genteel MV Victoria and an experience that has
not changed in decades.
A night time crossing, a ship hand-loaded with fishes and matoke,
deepwater berths with hawker filled pirogues.

Back on land, we made our way towards Lake Tangynika, and another
fabled lake journey, another 'trip-within-a-trip' for us.
A three day sailing along the shores of Tanzania and the infamous MV
Liemba.

For us: bikes, officials, ports and money; Kigoma was no different.
Only here we managed to completely close the port for a good half an
hour while someone suitably senior was located.
But the journey was well worth the initial aggravation, and we were
soon slipping atop the lake.
As Tanzania slid by, boats with arriving passengers threw their
charges aboard and began to vye for return fares.
Cargo of all descriptions was paddled out to be struggled or craned
aboard.
Sellers of fried fish and rice threw their wares into waiting hands.
Fruit and cigarette vendors plied their trade around the decks.
Canoes were emptied of crystal clear lakewater with plastic oil cans.
The whole process then repeated a few miles down the coast with fresh
participants.

And then we were off.
Deposited back on red dirt tracks that at times seemed to cut through
crops.
Past dancing villagers, and chanting children.
Spending nights in tiny towns lit by paraffin and moonlight.

And this was the road that led us to Malawi.
Back onto tarmac, and thanks to the loss in altitude, back into the
searing African summer sun.

We struggled up to Livingstonia, a five hour push, to be rewarded with
stunning views and waterfalls.
We sailed out of the mountains to Nkhata Bay, and a chalet with
beautiful sunrise views over the Lake.
My second birthday on the road was spent in a lakeshore lodge,
complete with pizza and cocktails.

And now we are in the capital.
Supermarkets, crafts and carvings, Internet and games of 'bao' in the
afternoons.
After a brief flirtation with malaria, we are planning our escape.

From here we will go to Mozambique.
Cycling next to the Indian Ocean in time for Leah's birthday.
Massive white expanses of sand washed by cobalt blue seas.
Cold beers in a hammock as the sun sets on another luxurious day.

Then it will be the road into South Africa via Swaziland.
The 'Wild Coast'.
Surfing and diving along coral reefs.
The 'Garden Route'.
Cycling along shaded forest roads.

And at the end of it all, Table Mountain and Cape Town.

Well, that's the plan.

We'll let you know how it all progresses.

Wishing you all the best in your part of the world.

Simon and Leah.

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mail - simo...@worldtripping.net
site - http://www.worldtripping.net
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All intellectual improvement arises from leisure.
Samuel Johnson.

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