Colorspec Body Filler
Florencia Abila
I have been reviewing many, many articles, forum posts, videos on what steps "should" be done when having bare metal prepped for painting.. The goal is to prevent rust from forming, and trying to make sure the car lasts with a good paint job..
As I reviewed, some etch primer the bare metal first, then perform body fill, fixes etc.. then use some type of epoxy primer then sealer then more primer of 3-4 coats then continue on.. Others, body fill first, fix etc, then epoxy prime etc...then seal, then prime...
This is the sequence/steps that I'd been advised to follow and the one also recommended from the PPG paint store where I've been getting my supplies. I can say too that this approach takes a lot of work as you'll feel like you're doing a lot of repetive work. I also think that either approach would work for you it just depend on the quality and life of the end product that you're trying to achive. Scott...
Been working a bit at a body shop lately and can tell you that he has a large selection of things to use. Many things do not go together and most take a certain order. If you are going to be the painter, then I would find the type of finished paint I wanted and where I was going to get it. Then I would ask their system recommendations and procedures. If you are having someone else paint it, I would find how they prefer it and what to use. Many painters will not paint over others' body work unless they know exactly what is there, how it was done, etc. Even then some will not paint over it at all. I know that is a lot of ahead planning but you want it to last and I'd hate to see you put a lot of work in it and have issues finding a painter or paint it yourself and the paint lift something underneath it. Either way, there are many good systems out there just try not to mix the brands!
x2 on that. Find the system that best suits the way you want to work and stick to the manufacturer's directions. I've seen too many jobs botched because of the old mix and match, although lots of painters will develop their own system that works over time. When you hear someone complaining about a particular brand because it chipped or pealed, chances are you are looking at a job that utilized multiple manufacturers products that were not used according to directions. Major paint companies don't stay in business selling inferior products. If your shop is subject to a lot of humidity, I would suggest keeping a primer under the filler.
For me, epoxy primer, bodywork, more epoxy, surfacer and color coat is the way to go. Don't scrimp on paint. Depending on the color, expect to pay close to $1000 for primer, surfacer, base and clear coat.
House of Kolor had some good paint/restoration books. You might still find them in places like Barnes & Noble. The books (actually, catalogue-sized paperbacks) show you the "right" way to prepare and paint a car.
Metal Tech is a stainless steel and fibreglass reinforced patching compound designed for use in the repair of holes, cracks, dents and rust outs in motor vehicles, caravans, trailers, boats and guttering. It is dependable and easy to use and adheres strongly to metal and aluminium panels, fibreglass, wood, plaster, masonite etc. It is fast setting with excellent resistance to stress or shrinkage and is waterproof when fully cured. It is formulated to bridge holes up to 50mm in diameter, a mender patch of fibreglass mat should be used in conjunction with Metal Tech. Metal Tech may be moulded to any shape or contour, and it is easy to cheese grate, file or sand to roughly the finished shape. Final shaping of filled holes should be performed with a standard lightweight body filler, which is much easier to sand and shape to the final contour required.
Some do-it-yourself types enjoy trying their hands at automotive painting. When doing so, it is important for you to be able to recognize and correct some of the things that cause the most frequently occurring automotive paint problems.
When you spray on a coating of primer or paint, fisheyes might result. These are crater-like circular openings that may appear either while you are spraying your primer or paint on or directly after it has been applied. This problem is usually caused by spraying your primer or paint onto a surface that has contamination from wax, silicone, grease or oil. The easy way to avoid this is to make certain that you use a wax and grease remover while you are preparing to paint.
This problem occurs when a paint layer shrivels up while you are applying a new finish or while the new finish is drying. This happens when solvents in your new finish attack the old finish, causing the lifting and wrinkling. This can happen when you are recoating urethanes or enamels without allowing them to fully cure or when you wait beyond the maximum dry time during your application.
Sags are extremely common for do-it-yourself types. These occur when you hold your paint gun too close to the surface, double coat a spot or move it too slowly. It also sometimes happens when you reduce an area too much or trying to paint when it is too cold. To avoid this, hold your paint gun at a perpendicular angle, keep it far enough way from the surface and move it in fast, even strokes.
An orange-peeled surface has the appearance of an orange peel. This is normally a result of using too low of pressure or not reducing the paint enough. If it is not too severe, you might be able to correct it with wet sanding using 1200-grit sand paper followed by buffing or respraying of the surface. Always thin your paint according to the instructions on the label and do not overcoat your surface.
Also known as edge mapping, this paint problem results from solvents in topcoats penetrating through areas of the undercoats. It looks like a wrinkling around an area that has been repaired. To avoid this, make certain to use a primer surfacer that is water-based, two-component or another sealer to create a good barrier layer. When this problem happens, you will need to either remove the problem area or smooth and sand it.
This problem occurs when tiny air bubbles rise to the surface of the paint and pop, leaving craters behind. To avoid this, make certain that your spray gun is adjusted properly, use the correct air pressure setting and keep your gun an appropriate distance away from the surface. You can correct this problem by sanding the area with 1200-grit sandpaper and then polishing it.
These are streaks, lines or marks that appear in your paint film. They are the result of not properly sanding the body or primer, filling in scratches with primer or sanding basecoat or single-stage finishes before you clear them. You can fix these by letting it cure and then re-sanding the problem area before refinishing it.
With this problem, cracks of varying lengths form in your finish. This results when the film of your undercoat or topcoat is too thick. It can also happen when you are painting over a cracked surface or if you use too much hardener. This requires stripping and refinishing to fix.
When you lose adhesion between your paint and its substrate, sections of the color may separate away. To avoid this, make sure that you prepare the surface properly by properly sanding, cleaning and using the correct primer.
Pinholes occur when body fillers contain air bubbles that are then exposed while you sand the area, leaving small holes behind in the surface. This results from the improper mixing of your hardener with the filler. If you use too much of the hardener, pinholing is even likelier to occur.
It is important to try to paint in an environment that is as dirt- and dust-free as possible. Wetting down the floor both before you spray your paint and between each coat can help. You should also make certain that the surface itself is thoroughly cleaned before you begin.
Mottling refers to a streaked appearance that might appear in transparent or metallic finishes. It can be caused by many different things, including using a spray pattern that is not balanced, tilting the gun, over-thinning or spraying on your clearcoat before the basecoat has completely dried.
Grit refers to the problem of solid particles of varying sizes being embedded in the surface of your paint. This can happen when the paint or primer is not strained or stirred properly. It can also happen if you are using a can of old paint. It is possible to fix this issue by allowing it to cure and then sanding and re-spraying.
These are swollen areas that appear in the surface months or weeks after your paint job. They result from moisture that is trapped under the surface of the paint. To avoid this, try to paint in a dry area, using a dehumidifier if the area in which you live is one with high humidity.
In areas with high humidity levels, blushing can happen when the evaporation of the solvent reduces the surface temperature below the dew point. This can cause moisture in the paint layer, leaving a clouded look to the surface. You can fix this problem by adding retarder to the paint mixture and recoating the area. Choosing a high-quality reducer that is designed for the conditions in which you will be painting can help to avoid this problem.
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If possible, try to isolate a whole section of the car. Starting masking off areas beginning at join lines. In my case, only the front of the arch was damaged, but I intended to repaint the whole thing to avoid any obvious cut off marks.
You will also need to lightly sand the rest of the panel you are painting, even the parts that are not damaged. This feels wrong to sand undamaged paint, but it will provide a porous surface for the new paint to 'grip' on to.
It's important to follow the instructions on the side of the can regarding drying time. In my case, using Repco Plastic and Bumper primer, I was to shake the can for 1 minute, and apply a coat every 10 mins before finally letting it dry for 20 mins.
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