Just got my first WFP job, got the gear comin but still need to get my hands on the DI tank. I have about 2 years experience using a tucker pole but this is the first time since I went into business for myself. Cant afford to buy a system yet so rental is currently my only option.
I am willing to bet the extra money you are going to spend over the year would be better spent on a RO/DI. Roll up with a full blown out cart and you can kiss your monthy DI replacement fees good bye. Coming on my 4th year with my cart and will have to replace all the filters this year at a cost of just under $500. That comes out to roughly $14 per month cost over 3 years of using the thing. On average 4 days per week, two jobs per day on residential work.
they make smaller tanks. You could get a 65 or 45 gallon tank. enough water for a job or 2 in a pinch. light enough it wont burn out your brakes easy to strap down. We carry a 65 gallon water tank in our trucks for screen cleaning. goes straight to our power washer. Dont need to waste time finding water , hooking it up unhooking and reeling back up. Hey all those little steps take time and when you can eliminate them thats more time to make money. Also a few times weve come apon houses with very little water pressure so it helps in that.
Water tank on vehicle makes no sense, a house will take around 60 gallons, just would cost more for gas, using your own water and still using your di tanks at home. Just makes no sense, did I mention it makes no sense?
Simply put, if you have a lot of small stops, a tank is a must to saving time. Just average out how man gallons you will need a day and buy a tank that will hold a little more. If you have only one or two big jobs, then take your hose and take the time to find a constant water source.
I love my setup. I have a low profile 100 gal tank. It weights 20lbs empty. Here are a few videos. I have 0 problems with tank system. I will be glad to help you. Watch the progression of my setup in videos.
YouTube - vanmount
MobileMe Gallery video dated Aug 16th
So, I got a stock tank and I'm close to sticking ms turtle in it, it's extremely spacious , 75 gallons, but it is like a prison, much more so than a glass tank. The turtle has no ability to view or perceive stimuli from outside the tank. All she will see is the ceiling and anyone who comes near the tank and is visible only while close to the tank airspace. So, isn't this sort of a step down in terms of quality of life for the turtle? Or does the turtle not care.
I agree that it's actually probably better for Lei. Less stress for her...and yeah, just make the inside stimulating with pond like accesories....plants (if you aren't fed up with them)...things to explore (like hide spots) substrate she can dig or root around in..things to climb on (driftwood? thought you had a piece)....
Personally I think wild turtles get more stimulation from exploring and hunting than any visual stimuli. In fact every turtle I have met in the wild runs from visual stimuli , its potential danger. The stock tank will be good for her. Since it is a decent size try to mimic nature some, caverns to explore, fish to hunt etc.
Yes, I understand ponds don't have glass walls, but at the surface there is a lot to see out in nature ... at the surface of my stock tank it's pretty much only more wall and ceiling. But OK, I appreciate all the suggestions, she will have a large empty clay pot as an open-ended submerged cave, river rocks, the split-level basking ramp, and large floating rommaine leaves. That should suffice.
Leoturtle from what I have observed in nature Turtles don't really care much about how it looks while they are basking. its all about basking. In fact anything nearby can be perceived as a threat and they immediately dive.
I'd tend to say the "best kind of enclosure" depends on the kind of turtle, what kind of set-up it was raised in (is used to), and what results you are seeking....companionship, entertaining interaction, breeding, stress/illness-recovery, natural "wild" behavour, etc.
If a hatchling started in a glass aquarium, is happy to have a view of it's extended "world" and comfortable wth human presence, then plopping it in the bottom of an opaque-high-walled stock tank could be like throwing it into a "pit", so expect it's behavour and openness to humans, unpredictably and suddenly peeking in, to CHANGE....
If it's been in such an opaque tub since hatching, it could be quite stressed to suddenly find itself in a glass-walled (nearly invisible) rectangle of water, suspended in space, with unrelated and confusing human (and floor-pet) activity all around....
In nature, there aren't typically such invisible barriers....just continuing water and, usually, gradually-sloping banks giving views all around from a surfacing turtle's eye-level..... Just some "food for thought"....
A compromise, for a turtle being shifted from open-view tank to opaque tub is to fill it nearly to the top with water and add a transparent-walled ATBA on top, so it can still come up and look round, at it's choice. And for the owner, no longer able to enjoy an underwater from-the-side view and missing it, glass or plastic windows in, can be added....
OH, and the change has definitely been noticeable. The first day or two, she was very scared, of everything, all movement detected from outside the stock tank resulted in a depths dive. After a week, however, she is much less skittish and surfacing more often. It's fascinating I can be leaning over staring directly overhead into the water and not see anything and then suddenly she surfaces. The camouflage effect of her shell next to the river rocks is almost perfect. It doesn't help me that I have the two jets from the internal filters pointed upwards from underwater creating surface agitation.
Interestingly, in the stock tank, the begging is almost reduced to zero. Behind glass, my presence in the room would result in sustained bouts of flailing against the glass. In the stock tank, she surfaces when I peer overhead, but does not scramble against the sides of the tank. I'm not feeding any more or less than I did when she was in glass.
And ... fascinating to observe how she almost refuses to come to the surface when people other than me are hovering overhead. It takes an incredible amount of coaxing to get her to come up if my friends are standing next to me. I am beginning to finally understand how they do recognize their keeper. Their vision is so incredible, and yet, with my finger right up close to her head, she never appears to be looking at the finger, simply staring through it.
Overall the stock tank I think is better, but you're right I should raise the water level (still afraid of filling even this one. so far I think I have 25 gallons, and the turtle is about 3.5 inches and to me it seems like a lot of water. I'm nervous about putting in another 25 gallons. It's a 75 Gallon stock tank. Will post pictures soon.
so with moving onto windows 11 sadly it seems my beloved game M1 Tank Platoon 2 does not work. I have both the version on cd and the gog version and neither will start. At most if i run the dxwnd profile fo rthe game, i can ge teh intro video to run, but as soon as it gets to the main menu, the game will crash.
Basically, Hook/NOSHIMs flag will allow you to run the game as it disables all shims, go to the menu and start a mission. But the EmulateHeap shim is important for launching and playing missions, at least Training missions. Without it, the game will crash there.
I had to spend some time trying to figure out why the game now runs without using NOSHIMs. Turns out, Windows, seeing a successful launch of the game after so many crashes at the main menu, decided to enable something called FaultTolerantHeap. This shim disables certain things, such as sound completely, so that the game runs with EmulateHeap.
The last two paragraphs are just for verification and to remove any barricades from my test, unfortunately there is little to be done without the EmulateHeap shim even if you now can go across the initial black screen. Either you have to sacerifice sound or the missions. Have a try with the GOG version, but I am not confident they'll edit the game engine to make it work well with WinNT heap.
Actually I wrote to them on Feedback hub, and I even got a reply, but they want more details. Probably you can report there too, more reports=more likely to get fixed. You could also upvote my reports there, just search for "EmulateHeap" there and it should show up, it is also possible to "similarise" your report with mine in the Report setup process.
are you suggesting do a virtual windows 10? or just using windows10? the latter is not really going to be possible at this stage. I got this laptop with windows11 and am fairly deep into it now, nit going to rollback to windows10 as much as i might like, given also that support for windows10 is being ceased gradually altogether
Yes, and also describe what the problem is, where you find the problem, and how to reproduce the problem. If you have more old games, you might test them and see if they work (enable Windows 98/ME compat mode on them), and if they fail report them as well.
Hi. I dropped here just to confirm that the game on my Win11 21H2 seems to behave quite well, both in native mode and window mode (using DxWnd and the provided export).
This last Windows upgrade seems to be the source of all troubles.
I don't have Win11 compatible hardware so I can not personally verify / troubleshoot this EmulateHeap issue. However here on Windows 10 querying the ACT database I can see 99 entries that are set up to use EmulateHeap Fix.
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