Stripping paint

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jafo

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Jan 31, 2017, 2:12:54 PM1/31/17
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I need to get some advice on what some of you others are doing when it comes to stripping layers, and layers or paint...

Client dropped off some Victorian doors...probably early 1800's front door with the carvings...they look great with all the 20,000,000 layers of paint on them...ugh...
I am currently using  Flo Strip 1826 stripper  I used to use Dave's 2007, but was told that was not as good on painted pieces and should use a different one...So now that I am out of the 2007, I haven't reordered Flo Strips version of 2007 yet...I will probably start using keeping both in stock...2007 was great for cutting through clears...
Anyway, using typical methods for a flow over tank...I do not have a dip tank....top layers came off great...then stopped lifting...the nest layers don't lift, but "dissolve" in place...then the next nothing....Even adding fresh stripper doesn't get it to lift...and has no effect...frustrating....I am thinking about going old school on them and using sodium hydroxide...but I know the doors are pine and can have some serious work ahead of me if I do...raising the grain, darkening, etc....but I am lost how to get the rest of the paint off...I probably have 3-4 layers before the wood....

Any thoughts or suggestions would help...what have you all done in cases like this....other than me making a career out of stripping the doors, this just is taking forever!!!


Roger Beaudin

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Feb 1, 2017, 4:14:07 PM2/1/17
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It sounds like you are dealing with milk paint if the doors are that early?  If you have some lye or sodium hydroxide mix a small batch dissolve in cold water and see if that does the trick.  

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Roger Beaudin

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Feb 1, 2017, 4:14:07 PM2/1/17
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It sounds like you are dealing with milk paint if the doors are that early?  If you have some lye or sodium hydroxide mix a small batch dissolve in cold water and see if that does the trick.  


Tim Inman

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Feb 1, 2017, 4:20:33 PM2/1/17
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The older (deeper) layers of paint may be 'milk paint' but are almost certainly old fashioned alkaline based paints. They do not strip off in layers. They simply resolve and turn into goo. An acid based solvent stripper is less effective on these paints. The acids do great on the tops - newer paints - but poop out on the alkaline bases. So? Shift to an alkaline activated solvent stripper or .... As you suggest, go with a highly alkaline water based detergent stripper. Sodium hydroxide is available and cheap, but it is pretty destructive. I would suggest that you would be better advised to use something with a little sodium hydroxide and a lot of detergent like TSP, etc. Commercial dishwashing detergent can make a great stripper base when added to sodium hydroxide solutions. This will raise grain and it will darken the wood some. But, there aren't really any better alternatives. Be sure to price out the work accordingly. As the old expression goes, " 'taint cheap, McGee."

jafo

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Feb 1, 2017, 6:49:15 PM2/1/17
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Tim,  I thought that might be milk paint....it is old enough for it....I am using an alkaline stripper now...that why the top lifted quick, but the rest...just globs and liquefies and laughs at me...Can I add something to the stripper to "shock" it or lower the pH?   What would adding NaOH- to the stripper do?  I have used NaOH- and hot water before on doors, it works good, but raises and tears the doors up...especially on pine...I priced this high, so I'm good there....just wasn't sure if there was something better I should be using or different approach...
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