HOW TO 'WEAKEN' DOVETAIL GLUE JOINTS
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Tim Inman
Jan 21, 2011, 11:17:29 AM1/21/11
to WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide
Title: Weakening dovetail glue joints
Post by: Fletch on December 13, 2010, 12:43:10 PM
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I know it sounds crazy but I have a need to remove a drawer front from
the rest of the drawer in order to perform a repair. The dovetails
are remarkably tight considering the age of the piece and I am unable
to use a rawhide hammer to "encourage" the joint to come apart. Does
anyone know a method of softening the glue in the joint in order to
take the drawer apart?
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Title: Re: Weakening dovetail glue joints
Post by: ualani on December 13, 2010, 01:37:34 PM
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If it's hide glue, put some vinegar in a cup and get it nice and hot
in the microwave. Put the hot vinegar in a syrynge and sqiirt it into/
around the joints. Let it sit awhile and repeat a few times if needed.
The joints should pop loose when you coax it with the hammer.
Sometimes after applying the vinegar and it soaks in for a minute or
two, I hit the joints with an old hair dryer or heat gun to get the
liquid and joint even warmer.
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Title: Re: Weakening dovetail glue joints
Post by: TIM INMAN on December 14, 2010, 09:43:26 AM
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I have a little English cabinetmaker's hammer that almost never leaves
my apron pocket. It is so handy. It weighs only about 6-ounces.
Bigger isn't always better. This little hammer and I have tapped
apart many a joint. The secret isn't huge banging force (although it
is often in the forefront of my mind!). Rather, the most effective
way to break apart a drawer joint like you're describing is multiple
quick little 'pinging' blows. The vibrating shock of these taps does
the trick, especially when the glue is old and brittle. A giant
thudding blow from a rubber or soft leather mallet can usually be
counted on in my shop to shatter or crack wood and all. If you
haven't done this, try it. Get a hard steel hammer, and tap,tap,tap -
until you hear the sound change. Then you'll know you've broken the
glue joints.
As for 'Plan B' - I prefer steam to water and vinegaar. Seems to me
the steam is more effective and does less damage overall to the wood.
The water takes so long it swells the wood and can damage the finish.
I have a wall paper steamer that holds about 1 gallon of water for
this. The rubber hose has a pipe thread on the end to attach it to a
steam plate for wall paper removal. I just unscrew the plate, and
screw on a simple little nozzle I made to inject the steam. Mine is
made from a large veterinary needle, but a piece of small pipe would
work, too.
Be Gentle - 'First, Do No Harm.'
Tim Inman
Post by: Fletch on December 13, 2010, 12:43:10 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I know it sounds crazy but I have a need to remove a drawer front from
the rest of the drawer in order to perform a repair. The dovetails
are remarkably tight considering the age of the piece and I am unable
to use a rawhide hammer to "encourage" the joint to come apart. Does
anyone know a method of softening the glue in the joint in order to
take the drawer apart?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Title: Re: Weakening dovetail glue joints
Post by: ualani on December 13, 2010, 01:37:34 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If it's hide glue, put some vinegar in a cup and get it nice and hot
in the microwave. Put the hot vinegar in a syrynge and sqiirt it into/
around the joints. Let it sit awhile and repeat a few times if needed.
The joints should pop loose when you coax it with the hammer.
Sometimes after applying the vinegar and it soaks in for a minute or
two, I hit the joints with an old hair dryer or heat gun to get the
liquid and joint even warmer.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Title: Re: Weakening dovetail glue joints
Post by: TIM INMAN on December 14, 2010, 09:43:26 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have a little English cabinetmaker's hammer that almost never leaves
my apron pocket. It is so handy. It weighs only about 6-ounces.
Bigger isn't always better. This little hammer and I have tapped
apart many a joint. The secret isn't huge banging force (although it
is often in the forefront of my mind!). Rather, the most effective
way to break apart a drawer joint like you're describing is multiple
quick little 'pinging' blows. The vibrating shock of these taps does
the trick, especially when the glue is old and brittle. A giant
thudding blow from a rubber or soft leather mallet can usually be
counted on in my shop to shatter or crack wood and all. If you
haven't done this, try it. Get a hard steel hammer, and tap,tap,tap -
until you hear the sound change. Then you'll know you've broken the
glue joints.
As for 'Plan B' - I prefer steam to water and vinegaar. Seems to me
the steam is more effective and does less damage overall to the wood.
The water takes so long it swells the wood and can damage the finish.
I have a wall paper steamer that holds about 1 gallon of water for
this. The rubber hose has a pipe thread on the end to attach it to a
steam plate for wall paper removal. I just unscrew the plate, and
screw on a simple little nozzle I made to inject the steam. Mine is
made from a large veterinary needle, but a piece of small pipe would
work, too.
Be Gentle - 'First, Do No Harm.'
Tim Inman
Craig Vetters
Jan 22, 2011, 4:03:31 PM1/22/11
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
Use a hand held steamer like the Shark. You can buy them at cvs etc. the steam and heat loosens the joint with out damage. craig
Tim Inman
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