Help!
13 views
Skip to first unread message
Beth Beckerman
Oct 12, 2017, 4:24:55 PM10/12/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
Hi everyone,
I have a client who ordered a large farm table that was labeled “Reclaimed wood. Unfinished.” Bet you know where I’m going with this. She had it shipped to us so we could stain & finish it to her liking. When it arrived, it clearly did have a very light finish on it. I let her know the dilemma. Very long story made short, we stripped the table & the carved legs. It stripped ok except for some of what I’m guessing is wood filler on the rounded parts. It’s a light pink. The wood is all pine. Any idea what I’m dealing with or how to proceed from here? Will a pre-stain conditioner work on that stuff?
Thanks so much for your help!
I have a client who ordered a large farm table that was labeled “Reclaimed wood. Unfinished.” Bet you know where I’m going with this. She had it shipped to us so we could stain & finish it to her liking. When it arrived, it clearly did have a very light finish on it. I let her know the dilemma. Very long story made short, we stripped the table & the carved legs. It stripped ok except for some of what I’m guessing is wood filler on the rounded parts. It’s a light pink. The wood is all pine. Any idea what I’m dealing with or how to proceed from here? Will a pre-stain conditioner work on that stuff?
Thanks so much for your help!
Roger Beaudin
Oct 13, 2017, 9:15:06 AM10/13/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
I think the pink is probably a polyester resin. How I normally deal with that situation is stain as normal and prepare surface for finishing, after first coat of sealer be it a vinyl sealer or shellac I would attempt to color using either a coloring stick, or any number of concentrated stains, coloring it very lightly since the next coat of finish will darken or even change the color you think you used. I prefer to in-color the finish, not the wood since it is easier to control in-coloring vs placing color directly on the wood than you are proverbially screwed if it is the wrong color. On a finished surface you can remove in-coloring not so on wood surface unless you sand or use strong solvents which will discolor the wood surface and you have more of a mess to deal with. Stick with in-coloring and you can achieve whatever you want. You can use this technique to your advantage by making it look like part of the original wood like a knot, grain enhancement or whatever you choose it to be. I have been very successful at this process over the years. So, the term Faux-finish is not new it has been around for hundreds of years, just adding a new twist. My two-cents Roger
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
woodfinishinggu...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishinggu...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
woodfinishinggu...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishinggu...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Dennis Dittman
Oct 13, 2017, 9:15:06 AM10/13/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsub...@googlegroups.com.
Dennis Dittman
Oct 13, 2017, 9:15:06 AM10/13/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
Hi Beth
I have it stripped and sanded. I need your phone number.
Dennis
On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 6:51 PM, Dennis Dittman <dennis...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 10:54 AM, Beth Beckerman <maple...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi everyone,
I have a client who ordered a large farm table that was labeled “Reclaimed wood. Unfinished.” Bet you know where I’m going with this. She had it shipped to us so we could stain & finish it to her liking. When it arrived, it clearly did have a very light finish on it. I let her know the dilemma. Very long story made short, we stripped the table & the carved legs. It stripped ok except for some of what I’m guessing is wood filler on the rounded parts. It’s a light pink. The wood is all pine. Any idea what I’m dealing with or how to proceed from here? Will a pre-stain conditioner work on that stuff?
Thanks so much for your help!
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
Darrelk
Oct 13, 2017, 10:44:27 AM10/13/17
to WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide
Hi, Beth,
Roger has you on the right path. The pink is definitely polyester (yes, that's a Bondo type filler). If it didn't peel or loosen at it's edges it is more than likely a premium lightweight filler ( we use Evercoat's Rage Ultra) and just needs background colored/glazed to blend in with the rest of what you are doing. What we do when working with this stuff is first identify what it is sealed with. If alcohol wipes it off it is a simple shellac based sealer, if it takes a more powerful solvent like lacquer thinner to wipe it off it is a lacquer sealer, and of course, if only stripper removes it you are looking at some type of varnish sealer or penetrating oil sealer. If you find shellac or lacquer sealer I see that as a plus working my lacquer based colors and glazes over that and final coatings. If it is something varnish based I still prefer not to strip it and use a barrier coat over the well sanded varnish sealer (can be fresh shellac or other) and then again move into the lacquer colors glazes.
And generally no one wants to hear this but (again Roger is correct) this newer crap is more about faux effects than conventional finishing. You were lucky....this probably was some type of decent home grown reclaimed wood. I could send you to a half dozen or so of my clients that have gotten Viet Nam special "reclaimed woods" that literally blew apart when they just hand stripped the stuff. Lady just down the road from me stripped her table top and now has up to 1/2 inch cracks opening up everywhere. Air dried, oily, tropical woods....oh, my.......
Roger has you on the right path. The pink is definitely polyester (yes, that's a Bondo type filler). If it didn't peel or loosen at it's edges it is more than likely a premium lightweight filler ( we use Evercoat's Rage Ultra) and just needs background colored/glazed to blend in with the rest of what you are doing. What we do when working with this stuff is first identify what it is sealed with. If alcohol wipes it off it is a simple shellac based sealer, if it takes a more powerful solvent like lacquer thinner to wipe it off it is a lacquer sealer, and of course, if only stripper removes it you are looking at some type of varnish sealer or penetrating oil sealer. If you find shellac or lacquer sealer I see that as a plus working my lacquer based colors and glazes over that and final coatings. If it is something varnish based I still prefer not to strip it and use a barrier coat over the well sanded varnish sealer (can be fresh shellac or other) and then again move into the lacquer colors glazes.
And generally no one wants to hear this but (again Roger is correct) this newer crap is more about faux effects than conventional finishing. You were lucky....this probably was some type of decent home grown reclaimed wood. I could send you to a half dozen or so of my clients that have gotten Viet Nam special "reclaimed woods" that literally blew apart when they just hand stripped the stuff. Lady just down the road from me stripped her table top and now has up to 1/2 inch cracks opening up everywhere. Air dried, oily, tropical woods....oh, my.......
Dennis Dittman
Oct 13, 2017, 2:37:14 PM10/13/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
Hi Roger
I must have your phone number.
Dennis
On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 5:21 PM, Roger Beaudin <rj...@comcast.net> wrote:
I think the pink is probably a polyester resin. How I normally deal with that situation is stain as normal and prepare surface for finishing, after first coat of sealer be it a vinyl sealer or shellac I would attempt to color using either a coloring stick, or any number of concentrated stains, coloring it very lightly since the next coat of finish will darken or even change the color you think you used. I prefer to in-color the finish, not the wood since it is easier to control in-coloring vs placing color directly on the wood than you are proverbially screwed if it is the wrong color. On a finished surface you can remove in-coloring not so on wood surface unless you sand or use strong solvents which will discolor the wood surface and you have more of a mess to deal with. Stick with in-coloring and you can achieve whatever you want. You can use this technique to your advantage by making it look like part of the original wood like a knot, grain enhancement or whatever you choose it to be. I have been very successful at this process over the years. So, the term Faux-finish is not new it has been around for hundreds of years, just adding a new twist. My two-cents Roger
-----Original Message-----
From: woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com [mailto:woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Beth Beckerman
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 12:54 PM
To: woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
Subject: [WoodFinishing Guide: 349] Help!
Hi everyone,
I have a client who ordered a large farm table that was labeled “Reclaimed wood. Unfinished.” Bet you know where I’m going with this. She had it shipped to us so we could stain & finish it to her liking. When it arrived, it clearly did have a very light finish on it. I let her know the dilemma. Very long story made short, we stripped the table & the carved legs. It stripped ok except for some of what I’m guessing is wood filler on the rounded parts. It’s a light pink. The wood is all pine. Any idea what I’m dealing with or how to proceed from here? Will a pre-stain conditioner work on that stuff?
Thanks so much for your help!
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsub...@googlegroups.com.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsub...@googlegroups.com.
Gary Meays
Oct 13, 2017, 2:37:30 PM10/13/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
Beth Beckerman
Oct 13, 2017, 4:59:41 PM10/13/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
I am wishing I would have left on the stuff that was on there. Too late, but you’re right, I’m probably lucky it’s not a bigger mess. This “reclaimed” wood is new pine. Ugh….
Sorry I didn’t leave my info. The number below is my cell. I’ll answer if I’m not in a mess, but will call back if I miss the call. Thanks!!
On Oct 13, 2017, at 8:34 AM, Gary Meays <gme...@frontiernet.net> wrote:
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishinggu...@googlegroups.com.
Roger Beaudin
Oct 14, 2017, 12:57:56 PM10/14/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
It is not so bad a project, think of it as a way to learn a new technique on how to accomplish something that your client will go wow once they come pick it up. In coloring is so very useful even on antique furniture, not all antique furniture was great quality, we all have uncovered “sins” or “hall of horrors”.
I use transtint dyes mostly and mix my own formulas, if you are not familiar with transtints they are concentrated dyes that you can mix with denatured alcohol, lacquer or water. They dry almost instantly and can be top coated within an hour of use. You can also use it concentrated to age new wood especially red and white oak maple and other light woods that have aged (patina) naturally to match adjoining color surface example you had to add new wood or veneer that was missing from the original piece like a top. Not difficult to do once you know how, I can show you the how. I am semi-retired and passing on skills is my way of passing it on.
rjant
Oct 14, 2017, 12:57:56 PM10/14/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
Hey Dennis my number is
Jeannie's Antiques
Milton, DE
I am currently semi retired I do former clients work and clock cases for my clock maker friend. He keeps me busy with all types of clocks from mantel to grandfather clocks.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Dennis Dittman <dennis...@gmail.com>
Date: 10/13/17 10:09 AM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [WoodFinishing Guide: 354] Help!
Hi Roger
I must have your phone number.
Dennis
On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 5:21 PM, Roger Beaudin <rj...@comcast.net> wrote:
I think the pink is probably a polyester resin. How I normally deal with that situation is stain as normal and prepare surface for finishing, after first coat of sealer be it a vinyl sealer or shellac I would attempt to color using either a coloring stick, or any number of concentrated stains, coloring it very lightly since the next coat of finish will darken or even change the color you think you used. I prefer to in-color the finish, not the wood since it is easier to control in-coloring vs placing color directly on the wood than you are proverbially screwed if it is the wrong color. On a finished surface you can remove in-coloring not so on wood surface unless you sand or use strong solvents which will discolor the wood surface and you have more of a mess to deal with. Stick with in-coloring and you can achieve whatever you want. You can use this technique to your advantage by making it look like part of the original wood like a knot, grain enhancement or whatever you choose it to be. I have been very successful at this process over the years. So, the term Faux-finish is not new it has been around for hundreds of years, just adding a new twist. My two-cents Roger
-----Original Message-----
From: woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com [mailto:woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Beth Beckerman
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 12:54 PM
To: woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
Subject: [WoodFinishing Guide: 349] Help!
Hi everyone,
I have a client who ordered a large farm table that was labeled “Reclaimed wood. Unfinished.” Bet you know where I’m going with this. She had it shipped to us so we could stain & finish it to her liking. When it arrived, it clearly did have a very light finish on it. I let her know the dilemma. Very long story made short, we stripped the table & the carved legs. It stripped ok except for some of what I’m guessing is wood filler on the rounded parts. It’s a light pink. The wood is all pine. Any idea what I’m dealing with or how to proceed from here? Will a pre-stain conditioner work on that stuff?
Thanks so much for your help!
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsub...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsub...@googlegroups.com.
Dennis Dittman
Oct 14, 2017, 12:57:56 PM10/14/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
Hi Gary
You forgot to leave your phone number. I turn 72 in three days. How old are you.
Dennis
On Fri, Oct 13, 2017 at 1:35 PM, Beth Beckerman <maple...@gmail.com> wrote:
I am wishing I would have left on the stuff that was on there. Too late, but you’re right, I’m probably lucky it’s not a bigger mess. This “reclaimed” wood is new pine. Ugh….
Sorry I didn’t leave my info. The number below is my cell. I’ll answer if I’m not in a mess, but will call back if I miss the call. Thanks!!
On Oct 13, 2017, at 8:34 AM, Gary Meays <gme...@frontiernet.net> wrote:
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsub...@googlegroups.com.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsub...@googlegroups.com.
Dennis Dittman
Oct 15, 2017, 8:03:11 PM10/15/17
to woodfinis...@googlegroups.com
Hi
Yhanks!
Dennis
On Sat, Oct 14, 2017 at 9:33 AM, Roger Beaudin <rj...@comcast.net> wrote:
It is not so bad a project, think of it as a way to learn a new technique on how to accomplish something that your client will go wow once they come pick it up. In coloring is so very useful even on antique furniture, not all antique furniture was great quality, we all have uncovered “sins” or “hall of horrors”.
I use transtint dyes mostly and mix my own formulas, if you are not familiar with transtints they are concentrated dyes that you can mix with denatured alcohol, lacquer or water. They dry almost instantly and can be top coated within an hour of use. You can also use it concentrated to age new wood especially red and white oak maple and other light woods that have aged (patina) naturally to match adjoining color surface example you had to add new wood or veneer that was missing from the original piece like a top. Not difficult to do once you know how, I can show you the how. I am semi-retired and passing on skills is my way of passing it on.
From: woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com [mailto:woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Beth Beckerman
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2017 3:36 PM
To: woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [WoodFinishing Guide: 356] Help!
I am wishing I would have left on the stuff that was on there. Too late, but you’re right, I’m probably lucky it’s not a bigger mess. This “reclaimed” wood is new pine. Ugh….
Sorry I didn’t leave my info. The number below is my cell. I’ll answer if I’m not in a mess, but will call back if I miss the call. Thanks!!
On Oct 13, 2017, at 8:34 AM, Gary Meays <gme...@frontiernet.net> wrote:
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsub...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsub...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To post or reply to this group, send email to woodfinishingguide@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/woodfinishingguide?hl=en
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to woodfinishingguide+unsub...@googlegroups.com.
Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages